the facebook bike groups I’m in routinely see bikes crappier than my bike but 3+ years old going for $50 off MSRP, Id get up there and take a swing
the facebook bike groups I’m in routinely see bikes crappier than my bike but 3+ years old going for $50 off MSRP, Id get up there and take a swing
Definitely sell cheap to a friend or someone in need.
Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.
That's the plan, just wanted to make sure I didn't have an asshole price. Said friend is iffy on it, so if anyone here wants a 26 inch mojo and is willing to grab it from Seacoast NH, let me know. Not allowed to buy a new full squish rig until old one is gone.
This with one addition.
Rebuild with brass nipples. Aluminum is a terrible choice for nipples. Aluminum has a very limited fatigue life and a nipple faces constant stress/relax cycles on every rotation.
Add to the fact that aluminum nipples are very iffy regarding truing after a couple years. They tend to lock onto the spoke and then round off.
In the midst of many, many terrible ideas the bike industry has come up with, this rates way up with the worst.
GX Eagle shifting/slipping issues?
New bike came with GX eagle. Not my first choice, but was a good deal on a used bike. It works for the most part. Climbing almost never an issue. Up shifting while pedaling hard on a DH = slippage. Chain not warn, cassette is good. B-screw seems to back itself out daily. But even when its perfect still issues sometimes. Only in the mid range of the cassette.
Is this just the way it is?
Would it be more accurate to say that “GX Eagle is garbage?”
Seems like GX11 speed was pretty reliable and worked well?
After hearing about all these Shimano 12 speed clutch issues and GX Eagle shift issues, I can see why (a very small minority of people) have gone back to X01 11 speed with Garbaruk extra range cassettes ...
(Of course, I ordered my Garbaruk 11 speed cassette a month ago and still haven’t gotten shipping confirmation! Grrrrrr ...)
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"Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.
I'll be there." ... Andy Campbell
I was assuming "broke at the nipple" meant the spoke broke, not the nipple. I'd assume an OEM wheel with mid-level hubs and rims is going to have brass nipples (since they're both cheaper and easier to build in a machine).
You can build a long lasting wheel with alloy nipples (I have a few built in the 90s and still in active use) but you need to be careful about rounding the nipple as mentioned. A 4-sided spoke wrench (Spokey) helps a lot here, along with lubing the threads with spoke prep or anti seize. And the combination of alloy nips and butted spokes (esp. heavily butted like DT Revolution) can make dealing with spoke windup especially hard.
I have been thinking of getting a smaller oval chainring lately. Am I just out of shape? I am currently running a 32t on a 10-50 sram setup. I was thinking of going down to a 30t or 28t. I feel like the hills near me are fucking brutal. Any advice?
By “working mans” did you have XT on the derailleur or the shifter?
I don’t really understand why OEM spec on mixed builds is SLX shifter and XT derailleur, as if I were building my bike I’d want it the other way around for the precise cable pulling capability and quick feel of the shifter. Am I wrong on that?
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"Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.
I'll be there." ... Andy Campbell
If up shifting but *not* during fast DH - shift OK? Is the chain the right length?
I have a bike with GX Eagle and another with XO1 Eagle, both about the same age and usage. The GX cassette shows a lot more wear than the XO1, and the derailleur has more slop. Shifts fine still, just looks like it isn't going to last terribly long. There seems to be a big jump in quality from GX to XO1. I wonder if the revised GX parts are any more durable.
To followup on the broken crank arm....should I be worried enough about this frame damage that I stop riding it or think simplying buying a new arm isn't the best move? Fwiw, the gash by the crank had been there since I bought it 3-4 years ago (open box buy). Hard to tell if the stuff I circled is merely a scratch in the paint/standard wear or something worth worrying about.
It does feel solid and it's possible I am overreacting to a completely unrelated failure. I wouldn't necessarily think too much about my bike falling apart under me until the arm broke but now I'm a bit worried. Every image is of the side in question except for the last. Thanks for any advice/knowledge.
I guess maybe that gash is designed into the frame? Sorry for my complete lack of technical knowledge!
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Folks that are unhappy with their garbage SRAM drivetrains, please PM me before disposal. I'm happy to take them off your hands. Seriously.
Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.
Get a pulse oximeter and a COVID test? Or don’t ride in smoke if PM2.5 is above 100?
You could also have mild asthma ... I didn’t get my asthma diagnosis until I was 30, and my pneumatic function test was pretty awful, just laughed and told my doc I’d felt that my entire life and always worked around it/managed it. But yeah having an inhaler in the skin track was much more preferable to going into AMS territory ...
That said, I haven’t done the math, but on an equal length crank I’d guess that the leverage ratio of a 24t bailout ring on a 36t cassette sprocket driving a 26” wheel is probably about the same as a 28t - 50t on a 29” wheel ...
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"Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.
I'll be there." ... Andy Campbell
Yeah SLX der with XT shifter. Was great.
I checked the chain length on current setup. Using little graphic from 59 second mark of this video.
I mean it shifts decent if riding pretty slow and upshifting, but I don't really do that. I kind of ride everything downhill like it's a race aka hammering on the pedals hard and upshifting.
Hard to tell from the photos, but the line in the little red circle could be a crack. If you remove the rear wheel and gently squeeze the dropouts together (flexing the stays together - but just a little) - does that line open up and reveal a crack?
Also, your big chainring is pretty much worn out.
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