The Official Salomon S/Lab SHIFT MNC Thread -AMA

[XXX-er]

recommended mounts for some skis might be referred to as " + or - from center " but center marks on ski and boot never change, its the bindings that move to keep the boot center mark at the ski center mark

to put the boot center at ski center I use the line for boot center, mark it with a sharpie or piece of tape, line it up with the center line on the ski using a t-square on the ski top

[ripvanwinter]

Thanks guys, and sorry for the thread drift. I’m just taking these terms too literally, I suppose, and got confused when the boot center mark on the boot wasn’t actually in the center of the boot sole.

[XXX-er]

I wonder if the mark is at the center of the boot shell which might not be the same as the boot sole ?

in any case it was interesting to see someone else's POV/interpretation that would mix up something which seems so simple

[lucknau]

The shift template must be off, because when I mounted mine, it seemed like I was back 5mm.

Mine are mounted, so I can't do more test mounts, but I made a 3mm adjustment to the BCL, based on the heel/toe lines I was given recently. I don't know if this'll get you to the perfection you seek, but am willing to keep working on it.

[lucknau]

I wonder if the mark is at the center of the boot shell which might not be the same as the boot sole ?

in any case it was interesting to see someone else's POV/interpretation that would mix up something which seems so simple

Simple, yeah, but with more than one right answer, mixup is a relative term. The ISO allows for some wiggle room in the toe and heel interface, specifying only that the toe interface be >=5mm and the heel interface be >=6mm, so it's impossible to attain universal perfection. Should be able to get within a few mm, though.

[skifishbum]

So it has to be as durable as a high din metal clamp but also light enough to tour with and have pins for the toes? Would you also like it delivered on unicorns?

You probably know as well as anyone all ski gear is about some sort of sacrifice. If the Shift ain’t it for you just get a CAST setup and live with the fiddle factor.

just so ya know i have both unicorns and a high din metal clamp thats light enough to tour with and has pins for toes on my red dps skis
the unicorn only has a season and about 70 days
the clamps are approaching 200+ days and while are showing wear they have performed and exceeded my expecations in and outta bounds
greatly without any mods or rubber bands or other crap i wouldnt expect to need from a binding with a msrp of more than my gainful ski tech employment earnings for a week
not that i ever pay msrp
and i weigh more and ski harder than both my dentist and leelau and most likely you too

[retirwntm]

Unicorns? Sure. I lightweight binding that has pins and doesn’t exploderate if you look at it? Unpossible.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[skifishbum]

[kathleenturneroverdrive]

just so ya know i have both unicorns and a high din metal clamp thats light enough to tour with and has pins for toes on my red dps skis
the unicorn only has a season and about 70 days
the clamps are approaching 200+ days and while are showing wear they have performed and exceeded my expecations in and outta bounds
greatly without any mods or rubber bands or other crap i wouldnt expect to need from a binding with a msrp of more than my gainful ski tech employment earnings for a week
not that i ever pay msrp
and i weigh more and ski harder than both my dentist and leelau and most likely you too

Glad you found your dream binding, I’ve always wanted to give those a spin. If you didn’t pick up on it, my post was giving the guy a little shit that thinks he skis so hard he needs a 16 din Shift to do his thing. So thanks for helping making my point?

[XXX-er]

I love that ^^ ski so much I have it in both sizes

[burrito]

Reading through the threads about the ADF adjust made me take a close look at my shift setup. ADF gap is fine so far but I noticed that the white ADF plate on my Lupo AX120’s Gripwalks does not exactly line up with the ADF on the binding. Now in all honesty I have never looked that closely at this before. Is this normal.

Found what I was looking for. https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...mensions/page3 post #58. Kryptons modded with GripWalk soles. Soles ground to fit Pivots with alpine AFDs.

[skifishbum]

Glad you found your dream binding, I’ve always wanted to give those a spin. If you didn’t pick up on it, my post was giving the guy a little shit that thinks he skis so hard he needs a 16 din Shift to do his thing. So thanks for helping making my point?

it aint a dream binder the toe dont release and the little metal pins that sit inside the housing that holds the tech pins in are backing out
i put a new ones on and they now have stomp pads in the rear
i didnt put a shift on because it weighs more, has less din, brake design is rube goldberged and if ya need rubber bands to get it right= fail
i dont care who doesnt need a high riser or skintrack efficiancy i want one on my touring binder period
and way less cheesedick plastic
that being said i want a pair of these and i got a pair of splatulas they would probably be a good fit on but i guess a brake that would fit 144 is another thing soli didnt think was necessary or wanted
oh and it sure looks like i can probably get the space i need to use og pre epf duke/baron rear holes with helicoils
maybe #redshift20 will be better

[TahoeJ]

My 110 brakes fit 122 skis without bending so the 120 brakes should fit a super fat ski, at least with a little bending.

[auvgeek]

Any more updates on the brake situation while touring? Asking for a friend who wants a travel ski setup and is currently in barons.

[bourbonisgood]

Any more updates on the brake situation while touring? Asking for a friend who wants a travel ski setup and is currently in barons.

Small sample size as I’ve only toured about 10k vert so far - but not one brake deployment during that time. Fingers crossed

[lucknau]

Any more updates on the brake situation while touring? Asking for a friend who wants a travel ski setup and is currently in barons.

There's a spring loaded cam or something that lets the brake pop over into tour mode and stay, but there's also a latch that holds it in place. I think this has been talked about already, but I'd forgotten about it. So my brakes kept popping out because my boots would get the brake mechanism over the cam, but wasn't engaging the latch, and the slightest downward pressure would disengage them.

I think this has been said already, too, but if you grab the brakes and lift while pushing down on the brake pad with your thumbs there'll be a really audible click, and then it's a lot less likely to pop out while touring. Seems like it would be susceptible to icing and wear, but I haven't experienced either yet.

[margotron]

I think this has been said already, too, but if you grab the brakes and lift while pushing down on the brake pad with your thumbs there'll be a really audible click, and then it's a lot less likely to pop out while touring. Seems like it would be susceptible to icing and wear, but I haven't experienced either yet.

Can confirm. There's an audible and tactile 'click' that comes from the brake pad for when they are secure. I have about 15k vert after noticing the audible click and so far no releases (and no rubber bands). It does require both hands, and that is annoying, but I guess you could do it in the car / before you leave home too if you have enough foresight.

[TahoeJ]

Can confirm. There's an audible and tactile 'click' that comes from the brake pad for when they are secure. I have about 15k vert after noticing the audible click and so far no releases (and no rubber bands). It does require both hands, and that is annoying, but I guess you could do it in the car / before you leave home too if you have enough foresight.

Could have sworn I did this but will take extra notice on my next tour with them. Hopefully that's the case and there's no issue - and if so it should really be emphasized somewhere.

[lucknau]

I noticed a significant popping noise today on one of the front toes every time I made a hard turn. Took me a while to realize I wasn't just scraping intermittent ice or rocks. I think it might(?) be the AFD, but can't really tell for sure.

[bw_wp_hedonism]

I noticed a significant popping noise today on one of the front toes every time I made a hard turn. Took me a while to realize I wasn't just scraping intermittent ice or rocks. I think it might(?) be the AFD, but can't really tell for sure.

I feel like I’ve been having the same issue. Not always, and when it’s been happening, I haven’t yet taken time to stop and look. Almost felt like it could also be my boot...

[ffmedic84]

I feel like I’ve been having the same issue. Not always, and when it’s been happening, I haven’t yet taken time to stop and look. Almost felt like it could also be my boot...

Mine were doing this and I turned the afd up a half turn and it stopped.

[Name Redacted]

Mine were doing this and I turned the afd up a half turn and it stopped.

I'll have to try that. I thought it was my boots popping, but hearing it described here that must be it. Come to think of it they don't pop on my other skis. Damnit.

[train07]

I did not mount my own fucking skis this time around...first day on the shifts yesterday, some deep pow, some soft bumps, some high speeds, all lift served, no skinning and so far am 100% satisfied.
There was no waiting for any AFD issue before I turned them higher, many thanks to the information in this thread.
Interestingly it took @ 3 turns of the screw before there was ANY upward movement...

[burrito]

Interestingly it took @ 3 turns of the screw before there was ANY upward movement...

That sounds about right. It happens any time you change the direction of the screw, which is kind of the only way to do it if you're adjusting to a gap. Glad they worked out for ya.

[LeeLau]

[QUOTE=train07;5567619
Interestingly it took @ 3 turns of the screw before there was ANY upward movement...[/QUOTE]

For my 3 pairs. 2 need 1 turn before there's any upward movement. 1 needs 2 turns. It's a strange design