New Season, New Tires, New Thread

[Eluder]

Does the DHR II come in DD on the 27.5x2.4WT size? On Maxxis' website, JensonUSA etc. I can only see 27.5x2.4WT in EXO (dual compound or 3C MaxxTerra). DD only seems to be in 27.5x2.3 -- is that significantly narrower than my DHF 2.5WT up front? Wonder how it would compare in width to my current HR II EXO Single compound out back.

Might just go with the 2.4WT EXO MaxTerra out back. Have had pretty good success with EXO casing even though I'm heavy (210lbs). Usually run 28-30psi in the back so not much folding and there isn't much tire slicing terrain where I am usually trail riding.

I run a 2.5 WT DHF up front paired with a 2.3 DHRII in the back. On a 30mm internal rim this combo works great. I chose to run the 2.3 in back to lower rolling resistance and weight and I don't need my rear end to hook up as much as my front end.

[gramboh]

You're right, I don't see a 2.4 DD either, nor do I know if one is going to be released. The 2.3" is literally about .1" smaller at the casing, or 2.5mm less - noticeably smaller but not huge difference. I'd say the 2.3 DD is good if you ride super fast through rocks, plenty of people use them for enduro racing with a 2.5 in the front. The 2.4 EXO is better for softer terrain and/or technical riding with less abuse. Big weight difference. I personally just use an EXO in the rear on a suspension bike with reasonable pressure without any problems, but I'm not abusive.

Also consider a Huck Norris insert in the rear, they are about 75g, help prevent snakebite damage, and can be had for $30 each on ebay. I just got one to run on a hardtail in the rear. Yeah it's just foam, but it's the right kind of really nice high quality foam cut into the correct shape.

Good stuff, hadn't really thought of the Huck Norris before. I've run EXOs on my trail bike without any issue even though I'm a bigger dude. I don't ride that hard and there aren't that many sharp rocks here although there is rough terrain, it's more smooth rocks and roots (Sea to Sky). With 28-30psi in the back I rarely ding my rims. May just go with an EXO again rather than sizing down but we will see.

I run a 2.5 WT DHF up front paired with a 2.3 DHRII in the back. On a 30mm internal rim this combo works great. I chose to run the 2.3 in back to lower rolling resistance and weight and I don't need my rear end to hook up as much as my front end.

I happen to have 30mm id rims as well... good point about lower rolling resistance. I've actually thought more about a DD casing tire up front as I find the EXO at 25-27psi too soft in corners sometimes (I don't shred, but I'm heavy).

Will ponder this a bit as it's currently dumping snow in downtown Vancouver so won't be on the bike again for a while.

[jm2e]

Looking for a new rear tire and stumbled upon this:
http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/product_ne...-enduro-369852
Michelin Wild Enduro. Anyone know anything?

Probably going to go with an Aggressor for now since I'm still rocking 26" in the ass part of the bike. 26" options are getting harder and harder to pin down.

[jm2e]

Anyone out there running Crush Core or Flat Tire Defender?
I'm toying with the idea of changing the DH bike to trail tires with Crush Core.

[Jonny Snow]

Anyone out there running Crush Core or Flat Tire Defender?
I'm toying with the idea of changing the DH bike to trail tires with Crush Core.

Spend $300, save 100g per wheel, give up cut protection and soft rubber compounds? Sounds dandy.

[grinch]

Looking for a new rear tire and stumbled upon this:
http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/product_ne...-enduro-369852
Michelin Wild Enduro. Anyone know anything?

Probably going to go with an Aggressor for now since I'm still rocking 26" in the ass part of the bike. 26" options are getting harder and harder to pin down.

They’re out in April . I’ll probably try them and see if they’ll unseat my wr2’s. The rear specific one is lighter for some reason. Still looks capable but with less rolling resistance. Not sure about the lighter though. Huck Norris could ease my concern.

Anyone out there running Crush Core or Flat Tire Defender?
I'm toying with the idea of changing the DH bike to trail tires with Crush Core.

Thought about that. Be interested to hear how it goes. My wr2’s held up well shuttling on our rough rocky roots dh trails. The tires were relatively fresh though and not a lot of shuttling but no flats or sidewalk rips. Still wish they had those with a dh casing option for piece of mind

[toast2266]

26" options are getting harder and harder to pin down.

I was told they'll be making a comeback soon.

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[grskier]

I was told they'll be making a comeback soon.

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By Damien?

[toast2266]

By Damien?

Yup.

And some people in the pinkbike comments that appear to be very knowledgeable on the subject.

If you look around a bit, the internet is full of people with secret insider info.

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[grinch]

Almost glad I have zero insider intel. Been thinking I’d like a dh bike with 26” wheels because they’re fun/shocker
Maybe it’d be hard to get parts though, idk

[Dantheman]

By Damien?

[grskier]

I could quote yours as the joke as well


I should have stocked up on my soon to be new to my wife's bike when I get my soon to be new to me bike.

[Jonny Snow]

Almost glad I have zero insider intel. Been thinking I’d like a dh bike with 26” wheels because they’re fun/shocker
Maybe it’d be hard to get parts though, idk

26" is by far the best choice for bike park and freeride. Just look at what the Fest series people ride. You can get a 26" boxxer WC for $630, 26" DH rims and tires are still very common.

As far as insider info goes, it doesn't take a genius to figure out that bike sales are down and 26" is a market that is not adequately being served.

[grinch]

26" is by far the best choice for bike park and freeride. Just look at what the Fest series people ride. You can get a 26" boxxer WC for $630, 26" DH rims and tires are still very common.

As far as insider info goes, it doesn't take a genius to figure out that bike sales are down and 26" is a market that is not adequately being served.

I’m just thinking buying a complete w little use. Bit of an issue finding rims and tires but there has to be old stock somewhere. Should have kept my demo

[LC]

They’re out in April . I’ll probably try them and see if they’ll unseat my wr2’s. The rear specific one is lighter for some reason. Still looks capable but with less rolling resistance. Not sure about the lighter though.

This says that the rear is 1070g (same as the WR2) and front is 980g: https://www.mtb-mag.com/en/first-rid...n-wild-enduro/

I like the look of them anyway and will probably try the rear if the price is right. My last few rears have been WR2s and I like em; tough enough, cheap from UK shops, perform well. Trying a 2.5 WTB Breakout Tough Fast next just out of curiosity but not sure how clearance will be. Aggressor 2.5 WT is also on my list; most reports say it rolls and grips better than the Breakout but some say the opposite.

A racer & guide friend of mine swears by Procore inside 1000-1200g rubber. I put a few holes in my first WR2 and told myself if it happened again then I'd switch to a rear Procore inside DHR2 EXO 2.4 (same total weight as the WR2) but have been keeping an eye on my pressures better and the last two WR2s have had no holes so I'm sticking with a 1050-1150g rear for now.

[grinch]

This says that the rear is 1070g (same as the WR2) and front is 980g: https://www.mtb-mag.com/en/first-rid...n-wild-enduro/

I like the look of them anyway and will probably try the rear if the price is right. My last few rears have been WR2s and I like em; tough enough, cheap from UK shops, perform well. Trying a 2.5 WTB Breakout Tough Fast next just out of curiosity but not sure how clearance will be. Aggressor 2.5 WT is also on my list; most reports say it rolls and grips better than the Breakout but some say the opposite.

A racer & guide friend of mine swears by Procore inside 1000-1200g rubber. I put a few holes in my first WR2 and told myself if it happened again then I'd switch to a rear Procore inside DHR2 EXO 2.4 (same total weight as the WR2) but have been keeping an eye on my pressures better and the last two WR2s have had no holes so I'm sticking with a 1050-1150g rear for now.

Interesting. Those weights make more sense. 3 ply sounds nice in that app. 8 different types of rubber!?!? Holy next level. Michelin mtb site lists the rear at 950g and front at 980g. Hopefully it’s incorrect
https://bike.michelin.com/en/product...m-x0#undefined

Be interested to hear how the wtb’s work out. They look like they have a few nice models. Bit confusing with various builds on each models and acronyms though. I’m just not really familiar with though.
Huck Norris has paid its way for me. Doesn’t add much weight and doesn’t cost much. It does get damaged from hits but it’s saved pinch flats(I suspect) and for sure it’s saved rims. Raceface/Easton rims use butter in their aluminum apparently. Bend ez(also bend back ez without cracking). Pre Huck Norris I dented them almost every ride whether I flatted or not. I haven’t had an issue since installing the Huck Norris. Shuttling included, several mistakes, roots and rocks nailed and expected the worse. I haven’t torn a sidewalk or ripped anything on the wr2’s . I might have pinch bited one , pre Huck Norris install , but I might be mistaken and that was another tire ,Just used huck in the rear of both bikes. Even if they only lasted the length of the tire they’ve paid their way 10 fold although they’re still going/working. New ones are supposedly much tougher too. Happy with the combo I have now Huck/wr2’s and tempted to stay but I’m tempted to try Michelin’s new offerings. New rear looks to have the side knobs but with a quicker rolling centre treads. Same for you, decent price from crc. Best rubber so 8 different types of rubber should be even better

[toast2266]

Be interested to hear how the wtb’s work out. They look like they have a few nice models. Bit confusing with various builds on each models and acronyms though. I’m just not really familiar with though.

WTB fucked themselves because they changed how they describe their compounds, but they've been super inconsistent in applying that change. Easiest thing is to ignore the whole "fast rolling / high grip" thing and just look at the casings and compounds. They have 2 casings: light = single ply; tough = 2 ply, folding bead. They have 3 compounds: DNA = 60a single compound; Dual DNA = dual compound, harder middle, softer side knobs; Gravity DNA = hard compound underneath capped with softer 45a compound. They also have comp tires, that aren't tubeless compatible and are pretty much just shit.

More on all of that sort of thing: http://blistergearreview.com/gear-re...bike-tires-101

[D(C)]

Interesting. Those weights make more sense. 3 ply sounds nice in that app. 8 different types of rubber!?!? Holy next level. Michelin mtb site lists the rear at 950g and front at 980g. Hopefully it’s incorrect
https://bike.michelin.com/en/product...m-x0#undefined

Be interested to hear how the wtb’s work out. They look like they have a few nice models. Bit confusing with various builds on each models and acronyms though. I’m just not really familiar with though.
Huck Norris has paid its way for me. Doesn’t add much weight and doesn’t cost much. It does get damaged from hits but it’s saved pinch flats(I suspect) and for sure it’s saved rims. Raceface/Easton rims use butter in their aluminum apparently. Bend ez(also bend back ez without cracking). Pre Huck Norris I dented them almost every ride whether I flatted or not. I haven’t had an issue since installing the Huck Norris. Shuttling included, several mistakes, roots and rocks nailed and expected the worse. I haven’t torn a sidewalk or ripped anything on the wr2’s . I might have pinch bited one , pre Huck Norris install , but I might be mistaken and that was another tire ,Just used huck in the rear of both bikes. Even if they only lasted the length of the tire they’ve paid their way 10 fold although they’re still going/working. New ones are supposedly much tougher too. Happy with the combo I have now Huck/wr2’s and tempted to stay but I’m tempted to try Michelin’s new offerings. New rear looks to have the side knobs but with a quicker rolling centre treads. Same for you, decent price from crc. Best rubber so 8 different types of rubber should be even better

I managed to dent my Stans Arch MK3 even with Huck Norris. But I’m sure I would have had more dents without it. I checked on it after a few months and it’s full of holes. These strips of foam are good, but need to cost $10 and not $60 or whatever given how quickly they get punched up.

[Eluder]

I managed to dent my Stans Arch MK3 even with Huck Norris. But I’m sure I would have had more dents without it. I checked on it after a few months and it’s full of holes. These strips of foam are good, but need to cost $10 and not $60 or whatever given how quickly they get punched up.

What tire pressure are running?

[grinch]

WTB fucked themselves because they changed how they describe their compounds, but they've been super inconsistent in applying that change. Easiest thing is to ignore the whole "fast rolling / high grip" thing and just look at the casings and compounds. They have 2 casings: light = single ply; tough = 2 ply, folding bead. They have 3 compounds: DNA = 60a single compound; Dual DNA = dual compound, harder middle, softer side knobs; Gravity DNA = hard compound underneath capped with softer 45a compound. They also have comp tires, that aren't tubeless compatible and are pretty much just shit.

More on all of that sort of thing: http://blistergearreview.com/gear-re...bike-tires-101

Thanks. That’ll be a good resource. I keep looking at the “convict”

[grinch]

I managed to dent my Stans Arch MK3 even with Huck Norris. But I’m sure I would have had more dents without it. I checked on it after a few months and it’s full of holes. These strips of foam are good, but need to cost $10 and not $60 or whatever given how quickly they get punched up.

Stan’s rims are fairly durable too. My hucks have slashes in them all the wY around and I’m do for a new rear tire . That’s only one tire cycle so take it with a grain of salt. I imagine atleast one of those hits has saved a tire and/or rim. I’ll probably get another set of HN’s based on that and the weight but I’ll be definitely looking to get the new tougher version. My other bike and tire with one in it only has a few days on it. They’re dh days but it’s too early to say it’s saved anything. I just can’t see myself paying the price of the other systems or lugging the weight around

[toast2266]

Thanks. That’ll be a good resource. I keep looking at the “convict”

I've got a bunch of time on the convict. Works ok on a fairly wide (~35mm) rim. Too round on narrower rims - it's tough to really engage the side knobs. But on a wide rim, it's somewhat similar to a dhr2.

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[grinch]

I've got a bunch of time on the convict. Works ok on a fairly wide (~35mm) rim. Too round on narrower rims - it's tough to really engage the side knobs. But on a wide rim, it's somewhat similar to a dhr2.

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Great. That’s pretty hard to tell from a pic. I think I still have a 35mm inner i was going to swap over on the front in place of the 30mm. Could be worth a try. That , the new mich, and the new heavier e13 are on the short list to try. I guess I should add gwinns new tire to that as well

[zlatham]

In my experience, the convict is similar to a dhrII but hard as F to remount after a flat. I wouldn’t buy that tire after breaking 4 tire irons trying to remount, there are better options as far as user friendliness goes with the same amount of grip...

[D(C)]

What tire pressure are running?

27ish PSI in back.

I think the dents happen if the tire rolls as it hits a sharp rock. I tore a tire right near the bead recently with HN in, and it left a slight dent in the rim.