turn off water
saw saw
sharkbite fittings, or sweat a pipe if old school
turn off water
saw saw
sharkbite fittings, or sweat a pipe if old school
Ah shit fuck.
Thanks
I'm looking for a smart thermostat that in addition to doing the usual smart thermostat things -- programmable by weekday and weekend, smartphone app usable when away/out of wifi range -- controls a humidifier, on/off/set humidity levels.
Searching gives no helpful results, even the user manuals from manufacturers websites are not clear ("these features depend on model...")
“The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”
- Winston Churchill, paraphrased.
You should be fine with any of the major systems. The systems work best with both a/c and heat because they try to keep a consistent temp. Either way adjust temps as little as possible. As smart as these things are, they still aren’t that sophisticated yet.
Skimmed over that part ^^^
If you can find a home friendly smart linked humidifier, you should be able to drive it.
“The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”
- Winston Churchill, paraphrased.
Ecobee
https://www.ecobee.com/2014/11/guest...-home-comfort/
Sent from my XT1650 using TGR Forums mobile app
My Nest Learning Thermostat will report relative humidity and I’m 90% sure you can at least attach a dehumidifier to it.
Smart thermostats are a definite yes. They can reduce energy costs almost immediately, the scheduling features are well done and usable out of the box.
If you use the old fashioned type with a bulb of liquid mercury inside the housing it's past time to upgrade.
“The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”
- Winston Churchill, paraphrased.
Thermostats, it's easy to waste money, that's for sure. I recommend you have a short list of features you want and ask "does this do this?" about each. Old-line companies like Carrier and Bryant and Honeywell are scrambling but I've run into some shitty products from them when they try to get all techy.
Insightful comment, and a good point I do realize after the fact.
I gotta give credit to estimators from two different installers. Discussing upgraded thermostats, they both asked what do you want to do with it, Alexa voice commands, learn the patterns in your living space, WiFi capable, etc.? They both said 'using a schedule is the way to cut costs.' And the only other feature I wanted was operable from a smartphone and laptop. They were right about using a schedule, and I believe you can add-on features from the basis schedule, learn your habits, sense occupancy, etc.
I see you're commented on hvac topics. What do you think of the new air purifiers for IAC purposes? I see the trend is to use ultraviolet light in a device which is turned on all the time installed in a supply duct/path just off the air handling unit. Have been in a house where they have a Reme Halo model installed, they swear by it, (cooking smells, kids allergies), and I can clearly tell there is something different with the air in their home, it seems cleaner or something. Yet have been in another home with a different brand uv device (maybe honeywell, not sure) and I can't sense any difference.
“The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”
- Winston Churchill, paraphrased.
Picture attached. There's a void between a concrete pad and the exterior wall of a condo.
The void is about 1-1/2 inches wide and about 2.5 inches deep, and extends for the length of the patio. How do or what do I use to fill or seal the void?
I suspect the pad moved away from the wall over the 30+ years life of the condo building. The exterior wall is stucco, the stucco ends and concrete blocks are visible in the void. The concrete pad make sup a private patio used for sitting and eating.
Below the patio and concrete pad is underground parking (unfinished concrete block walls, drop ceiling panels on the roof). There is no water getting into the parking level that is visible, and the main reason I want to seal and close is to reduce cleaning, leaves blow in, decay and become a mess to clean out. Preventing water from getting into the void is the second consideration.
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“The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”
- Winston Churchill, paraphrased.
Well if you use leaves you're halfway done already.
Non shrink grout?
The local electric utility did an energy assessment on a condo I own. I hadn't realized how detailed they were going to get into this, they changed out every electric light bulb that wasn't already LED to LED (easily worth 20 times the cost of the $25 assessment).
Their recommendations consist of air sealing of any path air takes to enter or exit conditioned space<>unconditioned space, duct sealing (forced air HVAC), and adding insulation above top floor ceiling/below roof. The assessment report send infrared pictures of the trouble spots.
Excluding the insulation, is this DIY-able work? I'd be stumped at the start just knowing what kind of caulk/sealant to use. Picking one example do you need heat resistant sealant when you seal between the mantle of a fireplace and surrounding drywall? Where do you go to get answers on this stuff?
“The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”
- Winston Churchill, paraphrased.
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