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Thread: Who is cutting wood?

  1. #926
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    Quote Originally Posted by cat in january View Post
    On a separate note my Jonsered 2171 cylinder is cooked and I think I want to move on to a lighter saw. Local dealer says they can get me a good deal on a Stihl saw, but I have an unpleasant history with a Stihl saw and having a hard time overcoming it. Thinking about an Echo or a Dolmar in the 40-50cc range, but I don't know those dealers. I don't need a pro saw, but would like something that is not junk. Any thoughts?
    a 3171 jonsered IS a pro saw and its red for fucks sake,

    Jonsered is made by husky so it sounds like you have burnt out sthil & husky

    but you say you don't need a pro saw but you already burnt out at least one and now you want something that isnt junk so you want to try the other 2 brands, there better be a dealer near by

    sounds like you need the unicorn saw
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  2. #927
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    Hiked a Stihl 8 miles into the woods long time ago when I was the saw guy on transit lines. Did everything to get it to go and it would not-saw was not mine.

    Bought the Jonsered used and yeah I know it is a pro saw. Had it 10 years and happy with the use it gave, but most of my work I don't need a saw that big. 45cc would be about ideal, but could go a bit either size.

    I like Jonsered, go back a long ways with them, and like Husky too. Looking at some of the Husky "Farm" mid size saws. There are a ton of their dealers around here.

    Yes a unicorn saw with heated handles and carbide chain in a magnesium case would be nice.

  3. #928
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    Quote Originally Posted by cat in january View Post
    Yes a unicorn saw with heated handles and carbide chain in a magnesium case would be nice.
    And an attachment to split and stack the wood, and cupholders.

    If you're not interested in a pro saw check out a Husky Rancher series - the 455 is something of a classic. Reliable, easy to work on/get worked on.

  4. #929
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    Yeah that's the saw I've had for ten years and I really like it.
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  5. #930
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    You had one sthil which you of course tested before carrying 8 miles not start so they are all Bad?

    Unicorn saw is what you want
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  6. #931
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    Say unicorn saw again.

  7. #932
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    Quote Originally Posted by cat in january View Post
    Can not imagine how that will be ready by Winter. Oak is one of the slowest drying woods there is.


    On a separate note my Jonsered 2171 cylinder is cooked and I think I want to move on to a lighter saw. Local dealer says they can get me a good deal on a Stihl saw, but I have an unpleasant history with a Stihl saw and having a hard time overcoming it. Thinking about an Echo or a Dolmar in the 40-50cc range, but I don't know those dealers. I don't need a pro saw, but would like something that is not junk. Any thoughts?
    I agree that oak does dry slowly, and that is why when cutting firewood this time of year I look for oak that is already ready to burn or will be after a few months split and stacked. With the load in the picture every piece of wood was either already down due to nature (not necessarily laying on the ground), or dead and still standing with the bark falling away. It's not hard to figure out when cutting the wood if it is ready to burn or needs to be seasoned. Wet wood is harder on the chain and I can avoid the smell of wet wood.

    I cut most of my firewood on the National Forest so I'm restricted to only cutting dead wood. I did find a nice standing large dead red oak that would have made great firewood (some for this year and likely some would have needed another season), but it was greater than 18" at DBH so I had to pass. I bet by the end of the fall it won't be there.


    I have use Stihl most of my life and really wouldn't consider going to a different brand as they have been great for me. That said my brother-in-law has a Husqvarna that has worked well for him though I don't remember which model.


  8. #933
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    Where's Glademaster with his moisture meter?
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  9. #934
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    I'm not sure I agree that cutting dry wood is easier than wet.

  10. #935
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    Depends on the wood. Same with splitting.
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  11. #936
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    Absolutely-> white oak best green. Fir dry is best.

  12. #937
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    And if you have real hard wood to split wait until it freezes.

  13. #938
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    Who is cutting wood?

    Yup agreed. Any moisture that is frozen in the wood is helping you.

  14. #939
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    For cutting up firewood I prefer cutting dry wood over wet wood in most situations. Wet oak (mostly red oak by me) dull my chain faster than dry. Same with maple.

    The ease of splitting wood wet or dry in my experience varies depending on the species. Cottonwood is terrible to split when wet. The splitting maul will just sink in it. Splitting birch when dry is hard as it likes to break apart. My favorite is dry hard maple as it splits very easily with cleanly. Splitting wet oak kind of sucks in my opinion unless it's frozen compared to dry oak. A larger piece seems more difficult to get the first piece split than when it is dry. I like to use a larger diameter piece of wet oak or cottonwood as my base when splitting wood. With elm it doesn't matter much as it always seem to be stringy and dry ash is quite easy and doesn't require much of a swing.


  15. #940
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    I burn a lot of tamarack. Cuts easier green. Splits easier dry. For me.
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  16. #941
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    How's your pondo "problem", Mike?

    Most of mine is staged for an upcoming splitter fest.

  17. #942
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    Quote Originally Posted by ~mikey b View Post
    I burn a lot of tamarack. Cuts easier green. Splits easier dry. For me.
    Agreed. Cutting dry tamarack gums up my chain.

    Sent from my HTC6545LVW using TGR Forums mobile app
    <p>
    Aim for the chopping block. If you aim for the wood, you will have nothing. Aim past the wood, aim through the wood.</p>

  18. #943
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    Man. Cutting dry not only screws up the oil ratio in my chain but also cuts much slower.

  19. #944
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    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    How's your pondo "problem", Mike?

    Most of mine is staged for an upcoming splitter fest.
    A hudge pile
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  20. #945
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    If the moisture content of your preferred choice of wood dictates when you can cut it, you need a bigger saw

  21. #946
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    And a splitter
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  22. #947
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    Or a new hobby?

  23. #948
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    Who is cutting wood?

    Quote Originally Posted by Grange View Post
    For cutting up firewood I prefer cutting dry wood over wet wood in most situations. Wet oak (mostly red oak by me) dull my chain faster than dry. Same with maple.

    The ease of splitting wood wet or dry in my experience varies depending on the species. Cottonwood is terrible to split when wet. The splitting maul will just sink in it. Splitting birch when dry is hard as it likes to break apart. My favorite is dry hard maple as it splits very easily with cleanly. Splitting wet oak kind of sucks in my opinion unless it's frozen compared to dry oak. A larger piece seems more difficult to get the first piece split than when it is dry. I like to use a larger diameter piece of wet oak or cottonwood as my base when splitting wood. With elm it doesn't matter much as it always seem to be stringy and dry ash is quite easy and doesn't require much of a swing.
    You burn cottonwood?

    Quote Originally Posted by BCMountainHound View Post
    If the moisture content of your preferred choice of wood dictates when you can cut it, you need a bigger saw
    Always need a bigger saw

    Mostly I'd just rather not breathe all the dry dust. Wet has no dust and I think has higher btu after split and dry than just cutting and splitting dry wood. Something that has dried in the open has also slightly decomposed.

  24. #949
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    Quote Originally Posted by steepconcrete View Post
    You burn cottonwood?
    I was thinking the same thing. Pretty low quality, at least the western stuff - down there with white fir.

    Always need a bigger saw.
    Until you have to carry it very far.

  25. #950
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    I have used cottonwood for firewood on two occasions due to the convenience of easy gathering and short tranport. The first was when I helped family clear some land for their home and the second time was after a storm where multiple cottonwoods were blown over in a yard and I helped clean up. After each incident I took some of the wood home and split it. I would never take cottonwood or any other popple while out cutting firewood. It burns fast, fairly cool, and produces a lot of ash.


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