PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[Meadow Skipper]

You can always make holes bigger, never smaller.

"I cut it twice and it's still too short!"

Tapped 3.5 holes, epoxied in. Let's ride...

Nice! You must have already had those red cartridges? Wish they still made 'em.

[Flyoverland Captive]

Yep, I have two sets of Freerides, both with reds. They're getting to be almost impossible to find.

[mr_pretzel]

so I got my first fuckup today after atleast 10 successful mounts.

2 spinners on rear FKS heels, any advice??

Also does anyone have any tips on getting the rear heel pieces in? They are always a bitch, i tried going with the first 2 first, but not going that route again.

Thanks everyone

[jackattack]

so I got my first fuckup today after atleast 10 successful mounts.

2 spinners on rear FKS heels, any advice??

Also does anyone have any tips on getting the rear heel pieces in? They are always a bitch, i tried going with the first 2 first, but not going that route again.

Thanks everyone

Are you using a driver to put in screws or doing it by hand?

I only put in screws by hand, and go about 1-2 turns per screw until they're all in flush. I never use a tap and almost never get a spinner. Nobody's perfect. If I get a spinner, I simply mix up a little epoxy and put them all back in.

Pivot heels are definitely a bitch. I use a block to get the brakes up off the bench, start the fronts, push the brake down with my thumb, start the backs, back and forth til they're in.

[mr_pretzel]

I do it by hand, but i guess im not being gentle enough.

Im having a problem with the rear screws pushing the hole plate up because they kinda screw through the plate. Do i just need the push down harder to start with?

[jackattack]

I do it by hand, but i guess im not being gentle enough.

Im having a problem with the rear screws pushing the hole plate up because they kinda screw through the plate. Do i just need the push down harder to start with?

Possibly, one thing you need to do is make sure the plate is flush with the ski before you start to thread the screw into the plate.

Are you using the appropriate size bit? 4.1 for metal, 3.5 for wood?

[mr_pretzel]

3.5mm stepped bit, jiagrex. Lots of successes. Just always seems a bit hacky, I guess i'll try to push down harder and go fewer turnes at a time.

Any advice on what to do with the spinners? Just epoxy?

[jackattack]

3.5mm stepped bit, jiagrex. Lots of successes. Just always seems a bit hacky, I guess i'll try to push down harder and go fewer turnes at a time.

Any advice on what to do with the spinners? Just epoxy?

Some will helicoil, I simply epoxy any spinners. I figure 3 solid screws is probably good enough. To date, I've never pulled out of a ski.

[shroom]

epoxy and steel wool has been one of the standard responses for a while

[flyman683]

I do it by hand, but i guess im not being gentle enough.

Im having a problem with the rear screws pushing the hole plate up because they kinda screw through the plate. Do i just need the push down harder to start with?

Ream out binding plates/screw hole with a bit... Not enough for wobble but enough so it's not threading in the BINDING... That's the issue.

[NW_SKIER]

Repurposed the yetis tonight as my new rock/bump ski after taking a 6 inch shot out of them this fall.

Jesters @-.75 Had to get creative with the heel though. Existing holes for g3 ion had me mounting these heels for a 315mm bsl instead of a 307mm. Made it work. Just barely.

[Dee Hubbs]

I do it by hand, but i guess im not being gentle enough.

Im having a problem with the rear screws pushing the hole plate up because they kinda screw through the plate. Do i just need the push down harder to start with?

The skis need to be on vices (or at least blocks) to allow the brakes to hang down. Drive the front heel screws in to snug. Push the brake AFD pad down to raise up the brakes, stick a screwdriver between the raised brake arms and above the ski top sheet to hold the brakes up. This gives you clear access to the rear holes to drive the screws straight in. Tighten the rear screws to full torque, release the brakes and torque the front holes.

[auvgeek]

The skis need to be on vices (or at least blocks) to allow the brakes to hang down. Drive the front heel screws in to snug. Push the brake AFD pad down to raise up the brakes, stick a screwdriver between the raised brake arms and above the ski top sheet to hold the brakes up. This gives you clear access to the rear holes to drive the screws straight in. Tighten the rear screws to full torque, release the brakes and torque the front holes.

+1

[mr_pretzel]

This is exactly what i did, but i will try taking a bit to the plate so the screws dont screw through the plate. Thanks for all the help guys

[XXX-er]

Any advice on what to do with the spinners? Just epoxy?

Just Epoxy will probably work but IMO you have a better chance of success combining with some filler, run the screw in till they are about to spin, let it cure for a couple days and crank the screws down hard

I use 24hr epoxy and chopped up FG strands for the filler which has always worked, some use steel wool, some use pink building insulation, some use bits of wood or epoxy in golf tees/ redrill

[klauss]

so just bought some kids skis per pollydog's thread. Nordica El Capo Shorty skis in a 140cm length. Can I buy any low din binding for kids/these skis, given the brakes fits, or are some going to come with screws too long?

danke

[GeorgiaSnow]

so just bought some kids skis per pollydog's thread. Nordica El Capo Shorty skis in a 140cm length. Can I buy any low din binding for kids/these skis, given the binding fits, or are some going to come with screws too long?

danke

Evo has some really cheap kids bindings right now but you may have to bend brakes to match the width. Not sure without looking at specifics if you'll have to do that. Kids bindings should come with appropriate depth screws but if your grom gets after it you could use epoxy for extra hold if the depth seems shallow.

[Boissal]

This may have been covered already in the thread but I can't find anything specific... Just got a pair of DPS Yvettes for my SO, Pure 3 from a couple years ago in 168 length.
That particular length is apparently thinner than the rest and requires junior binding screws for the mount and shallower holes (I think the topsheet states no deeper than 7.8 mm which seems awfully specific). Anyway, my understanding is that for a junior mount your shorten the screw by 2mm or so. How do you guys go at it? Measure whatever comes with the binding, take 2mm off, and hope a site like Tognar has the right size screw? Take the screw to the grindstone and remove 2mm?
I have a pair of radical FT12 to put on the ski, I know heel and toe screws are of different length, wondering what option is best...

[XXX-er]

This may have been covered already in the thread but I can't find anything specific... Just got a pair of DPS Yvettes for my SO, Pure 3 from a couple years ago in 168 length.
That particular length is apparently thinner than the rest and requires junior binding screws for the mount and shallower holes (I think the topsheet states no deeper than 7.8 mm which seems awfully specific). Anyway, my understanding is that for a junior mount your shorten the screw by 2mm or so. How do you guys go at it? Measure whatever comes with the binding, take 2mm off, and hope a site like Tognar has the right size screw? Take the screw to the grindstone and remove 2mm?
I have a pair of radical FT12 to put on the ski, I know heel and toe screws are of different length, wondering what option is best...

I would just grind or file the ends off of the screws you have, if you normally use a stepped bit maybe it will go too deep so you will need to use a regular bit with a depth gauge, make sure you don't mix up the heel & toe screws or you will dimple the bases

[GeorgiaSnow]

This may have been covered already in the thread but I can't find anything specific... Just got a pair of DPS Yvettes for my SO, Pure 3 from a couple years ago in 168 length.
That particular length is apparently thinner than the rest and requires junior binding screws for the mount and shallower holes (I think the topsheet states no deeper than 7.8 mm which seems awfully specific). Anyway, my understanding is that for a junior mount your shorten the screw by 2mm or so. How do you guys go at it? Measure whatever comes with the binding, take 2mm off, and hope a site like Tognar has the right size screw? Take the screw to the grindstone and remove 2mm?
I have a pair of radical FT12 to put on the ski, I know heel and toe screws are of different length, wondering what option is best...

I recently used a Dremel thin cut disc attachment to shorten screws that came with bindings for a similar purpose. If you tap the holes you shouldn't have to worry about the screws biting though you might have to take a little lip off the screws where you cut with a file.

[Boissal]

Thanks, sounds like grinding / tapping is the way to go... I haven't had good luck cutting screws in the past but it's always been machine screws and once the threads are damaged getting them to go in is a chore, I think in this case with coarser threads going into a softish material it shoud be less of an issue.
As far as drilling I usually do a shallow pilot hole then move to the stepped bit. In this case I'll probably still use the stepped bit but drill through a 2mm shim of sorts, either a couple of metal washers (not great for the bit) or a paint-stirr stick.
I'll report back with results...

[BCMtnHound]

Thanks, sounds like grinding / tapping is the way to go... I haven't had good luck cutting screws in the past but it's always been machine screws and once the threads are damaged getting them to go in is a chore, I think in this case with coarser threads going into a softish material it shoud be less of an issue.
As far as drilling I usually do a shallow pilot hole then move to the stepped bit. In this case I'll probably still use the stepped bit but drill through a 2mm shim of sorts, either a couple of metal washers (not great for the bit) or a paint-stirr stick.
I'll report back with results...

If you don't tap the hole, and before shortening/grinding down the screws, screw the original screws a couple turns and then back out. The original machined screws are tapered and help establish the threads.

[jono]

^^That's a good idea. Also, having cut down a few hundred machine screws, the best way to do it is to finish on a grinding wheel. First holding it straight to clean any damage from cutting (unless you just grind them the whole way) and then hold the screw at 45 degrees to the wheel with very light pressure and spin the screw a revolution or two. You won't get the full taper of the shaft (and you don't want to--gotta keep the threads close to full length) but you'll get the first ~1/4 thread a little smaller so it starts cleaner. Obviously trying to match the original as much as possible.

Not that this is recommended, since the original shape tapers the whole screw, which is better, but if you're gonna take a grinder to em give it the best chance you can.

[1000-oaks]

^ Good advice. It also helps to spin an M5 nut onto the screw prior to cutting and grinding, because removing the nut cleans up or straightens the last thread.

[1000-oaks]

Shot a quick cell phone DIY of plugging old holes with aluminum #12AB screws. If you don't mind the additional labor, this is definitely the most bulletproof way to plug old holes if your new pattern is right next to or overlapping the old holes. (If your new pattern overlaps the aluminum screws, be sure to tap the new holes so threads are cut into the aluminum screws.)

- Grind off the sharp point on the screws.

- Epoxy the screws in place. I smear some epoxy around the threads in the hole, and put a bit on the screw threads. Thread in the screws a little at a time, you'll feel resistance when the air under the screw is pressurized. When the excess pressure is relieved, thread in the screw another 1/4 or 1/2 turn. It'll probably take 5 minutes to bottom out four screws. Don't crank them against the bottom of the hole or you'll get bumps on your base. They don't need to be tight, the threads and epoxy does all the work. When you feel the bottom, back off the screw a bit.

- After the epoxy sets, cut off the screws as close to the topsheet as you can with a hacksaw, Dremel, or air cutoff wheel. (I used an air cutoff wheel here.) If using power tools, cut a little at a time to keep the screws from getting real hot. If they get hotter than about 250 degrees, you'll ruin the epoxy.

- You could use a hand grinder to grind the screw shafts flush with the topsheet, or a 1/4" four-flute high speed steel (HSS) end mill tool (less than $10 on fleabay) in a drill press. Set the vertical stop to the top of the topsheet.

(If you do inserts, it's handy to have a 1/4" end mill for drilling holes that overlap old holes, because an end mill won't walk sideways like a drill bit. Try to find a "center cutting" 1/4" end mill, which doesn't have a hole in the middle. Cheapo end mills with a center hole will leave a shaft of material in the hole in the ski, which you'd have to knock out with a 1/4" drill bit.)