East Coast Surf

[Pudge.]

That was all time. Struggled getting past the break for a long time until my friend showed up. Hugged the jetty and the rip pulled me right out. I bet a looked real cool trying to duck dive my 6' 10" prior to that

[Mr brownstone]

Meh, nothin special, imo. Not many folks out at york which was nice. Small handful spread out. Surfed from just past 6 to about 840. Quality overall was way less than the 22 minute waist plus session last friday. Twas clean with overhead sets and an easy paddleout. If it had been high tide things woulda been a bit better, but was ok at mid. The outer bars and inside deep spots were creating a bit of weirdness. The "wrong sands" phenomenon was in full effect once the tide dropped some. Still glad to have empty peaks at york vs shitshow ogt this am. Had a few good ones fer sure and it was sure nice to be looking a few feet above my head at the lip vs a few feet down.

great meeting up with VTcoldsmoke!

tomorrow ogt should be better to be sure.

[strawjack]

Tried to pick up one of the girls from CR, no luck

ha! good for you...always worth a shot, but those girls get hit on to the point of ad nauseam. I like the new look of the web site.

Didn't speak with my kid yet, but he was out the door a 5am...kook. We live 1.5 miles from the beach...

Picked up a cold on the plane...summertime cold -joy.

[Ottime]

That was all time. Struggled getting past the break for a long time until my friend showed up. Hugged the jetty and the rip pulled me right out. I bet a looked real cool trying to duck dive my 6' 10" prior to that

Up where I told ya or a different jetty? Typically, hugging the rocks is the easiest way out. And it is real hard, although not impossible, to get washed into the jetty. Water tends to fall to deeper spots.

[Mr brownstone]

Good goin pudge! The CR chix can smell newbie from a mile away

Heard from a friend that jenness was near perfect at noon. He had quite the frustrating york session this am.

[Pudge.]

Who cares what she thinks of my moves on a board, I'd show her a thing or two on skis! Isn't that why we are all here anyway??

Actually Ott l wasn't north of the Drakes Island jetty, I was south of the jetty on the other side of the channel. Then paddled to the sandbar maybe 50 yards further south. There was a little morning sickness, but come 7 I would say whatever damage the WSW winds were doing was no big deal. But I will have to check out the other side of the channel like you say. The bummer about the Atlantic Ave parking is you gotta be out by 8, not 9 like on the other side of Depot

[Mr brownstone]

Glad i ditched work early yesterday

working from noon to 8pm has it's many advantages like lots of morning time to surf and ride. The only disadvantage is when i watch the cams and the surf look better and better than what i had in the morning. Left at 6pm yesterday and headed right back to york. FKNA perfection. Buoy had dropped to 4'@9/10, but that just meant that the bars would work way better than the 7/8'@8/9 from the morning.

In the one hour i surfed the quantity and quality of waves i had absolutely blew the morning and this mornings 2 hour empty ogt sesh out of the water. Waist to chest glassy peelers that just begged to be molested in any way you chose. Hit after hit after hit on the walled up lefts and fun wrap around cutty's on the rights was just too much fun!

This am ogt was how i pictured. The hyped weird swell from yesterday that saw 80+ At the riv and 50+ on the main peak alone, was just 2 of us out for 2 hours in glassy conditions with chest high sets today. Didn't hold a candle to that hour at york last night but is always nice to have ogt alone in solid shortboard conditions.

Leftovers south of the restaurant in the am? Lovin all these 4+ session weeks this summer

[Ottime]

Parking on the Wells (south) side has the same set if rules. Guess I was wrong. It is 8 am.

Yeah, so you surfed my home beach. It tends to be way more crowded than Drakes. .

As the tide fills the peaks move around that beach. Next time up, it tends to be biggest about 1/2 between where you were and Forbes (fried seafood place at the end of Mile Rd). Between the big porch and te spiral stair case.

Live that beach. It is illegal, but low tide between the jetties can have a bowly hollow left where the groins make tier last turn.

[Mr brownstone]

Crickets over here east of the big river. Crickets i tell ya. On sunday night i had the pleasure of sitting down with Lost surfboards creator, Matt Biolos, and custom ordered my new 5'8 V3 rocket with hydoflex tech. November can't come soon enough.

Maybe a wind swell on the horizon in about a week.

Absolute perfect weather.

[whitekingsalmon]

ya i was goin to say,,,,,, flat as a lake huh,,, ya need to hire a boat to go up n down the coast to make a few wakes for ya.....

[Mr brownstone]

Actually, joey, i took a lil boat ride out to boon ledge yesterday afternoon to scope things out. The hundreds of seals were very entertained by the pitching waist high rollers. Man o man the place must go off when there's a real swell. Nice boat ride

[Ottime]

Shhh.
235

[Mr brownstone]

Tried to post some pics, but computer was screwy. Maybe later. Stupid nice weather.

[nc_slater]

Last minute I decided to Head down to RI last week from VT to get in on the Bertha hurricane action. leaving at twilight I got into Point Judith around 1230am Wednesday morning and quickly found a place close by to sleep in the back of my car for a few hours.

Next morning I spent about a minute taking these pics before excitedly heading out.

Sorry about the resolution I used Facefuck to host. They blow. This guy getting tubed does not.




Sick of the crowds and being goofy-foot I'm a big fan of K's so I headed over to check it out for an hour. It was much smaller, but peeling clean. A longboarders heaven. You just had to dodge the SUP kooks. ...and I brough my retro fish


Well, I'm not Rg, I don't like little waves. If I wanted that shit, I'd have gone to ME. So I headed back to PJ even though it was like:


every once in a while...


You can go left. (If you dare...)


By 3pm the tide was rolling in and the winds were switching to onshore. A time for sea-gazing, bodyboarding(apparently) and personal reflection as I sipped a cold Oregon IPA and burned some stanky trainwreck


And don't forget

(though I was a little disappointed with their lobster roll)

Nine hours of driving and almost 8hrs in the water I was finally back home. A couple days later the Chiropractor discribed the release in my back as "intense"

Stoke!!!!

[Pudge.]

May have something down here on the Cape for Sunday, going to Marconi for the day and bringing the board in case

[My Pet Powder Goat]

May have something down here on the Cape for Sunday, going to Marconi for the day and bringing the board in case

One of my best days ever was on Marconi beach. It's a beautiful beach, and while I was there it was pretty quiet.

[strawjack]

Little ground swell today with off shore.

Maybe this hurricane will deliver later in the week.

[Ottime]

keep them fingers crossed. he is hugging close to the coastline now.

[Mr brownstone]

keep them fingers crossed. he is hugging close to the coastline now.

the past 3 days have been wicked fun!

monday am ogt was sold waist/chest and thick/fast. monday afternoon was like mini trestles. waist/stomach flawless rights and lefts out in front of the restaurant with just me and another guy out at between 2-4pm. wifey is 7.5 months preggers and still got out on her 8'2 to sit. till a set wave caught her by surprise and she abandoned ship. tough girl trunking it and everything! yesterday am was ogt once again with super fun a-frame peaky goodness in the waist/stomach range with glass. this am was thigh/waist and perfect. just a few of us out. nice to have 3 shortboard days before cristobol shows up.

tomorrow and friday are looking up!

[Ottime]

. monday afternoon was like mini trestles.

So there were like 100 guys out. Looked at some socal cams this morning, and lowers is packed to the gills.

[Mr brownstone]

So there were like 100 guys out. Looked at some socal cams this morning, and lowers is packed to the gills.

I meant to say like trestles without the crowds

waves were flawless. Paddle for the wave, look around a bit, arch back, decide whether you want to go right or left, yawn, hop up and have your way. No hurry, no worry.

[My Pet Powder Goat]

Ill probably head over the ME for a thursday eve-friday session. looks promising!

[Mr brownstone]

Ill probably head over the ME for a thursday eve-friday session. looks promising!

good call. A friend called me this am trying to get me to do a southern ne road trip with her tomorrow. I'm sooooooooo over chasing swell.

I'll be ogt for the 4th day in a row in the am, then may leave work early tomorrow afternoon for high tide york, then either there or ogt friday am.

let me know where you might be.

[Ottime]

You gents should go swim around the SE side of timber is what you should do. You're sounding lazy ole man. You need to find a wave that will wake you up. Pinballs should do the trick. Or leftys if you prefer not to paddle too far.

So fun right now enjoying a great tropical run for the west coast and seeing a nice roller sweeping the east. Everyone is surfing this weekend. Guess I'll head to the mountains.

[Mr brownstone]

That's more than 6 miles from my driveway. No-go