Edit: Video stoke by Andy Traslin here:
It's been unseasonably warm in South Western BC the last few days. With temperatures in Pemberton forecasted to break records, Hummus and I decided a north facing line and an early start would be in order. With that in mind, Hummus, Andy Traslin and I found ourselves drifting to sleep on the roadside around midnight last Thursday with alarms set for 5am.
We were on the move before 6am, skinning up a logging road towards Birkenhead. After about two hours first on the road then following a creek through trees our objective came into sight.
The Birkenstock Couloir, approximately 450m, 45-55°.
On the approach there were plenty of signs of point releases in the previous days due to the warm temperatures.
Another hour of skinning had us approaching the base of the couloir and starting to get a good look at things.
After a quick transition and throwing on some crampons, we started up the couloir.
Hummus on the climb.
The walls of the couloir were stained orange, making for some nice colour.
Andy on the climb
About 2/3 of the way up the couloir, we hit a short ~2.5m vertical/overhanging section of snow. We think this was probably where a small section of snow let go. We decided it would be possible to negotiate this section on skis or with a downclimb.
Hummus climbing vertical snow. Photo by Andy Traslin
Nearly at the top, the ski down does look pretty damn steep.
Negotiating the cornice at the top involved another near vertical section. Hummus and I each gave it a go at getting through before before Andy finally pulled himself up using two ice axes.
Hummus near the top
Hummus topping out. Photo by Andy Traslin
We topped out a little before noon and enjoyed the views for a while before contemplating the descent. We hacked away at the cornice enough to sideslip in a bit, before a short drop into the slope. Hummus volunteered to drop in first.
We didn't bring a rope, so the entrance involved a bit of a sketchy drop in/hip check/self arrest. Looking back on it, if we'd had a rope we probably would have used some of the rock at the top to set up an anchor and done the first few meters on a rope. Live and learn.
Hummus dropping in.
And successfully coming to a stop.
It was kind of steep
After a bit of thought, Andy and I decided to do some more work to the cornice while Hummus waited in a safe spot below. We were eventually able to sideslip in and use an ice axe as a handhold to lower ourselves over the vertical section.
I dropped in second and got a few turns at the top before regrouping with Hummus. Andy came last and showed us how it's done with some super confident steep skiing. The upper section had grippy consolidated snow.
Negotiating the second vertical section involved some more plunged ice axe hand hold lowering. Once we cleared the lower crux, it was still fairly steep, but without any hazards below us, we could finally open up a bit.
Andy ripping it.
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Hummus
About 40 minutes of skiing with a bit of sidehilling had us back at the car after around 2:30.
Overall it was a pretty awesome ski. Definitely one of the more aesthetic lines in the area.
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