Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

[haydukelives]

Yeah the condensation issue had been on my mind. Im going to see what the best solution would be for a level sleeping platform. Pic's Will follow. I was considering running a small fan as well, to keep things circulating.

put a fantastic fan in the roof

[MakersTeleMark]

Or use a couple of low draw computer fans.

[Micol]

I agree on fans to move the condensation out. I never rigged one. I finally just started keeping the windows about a quarter way open. The hump in between the trunk and rear seat was always a bitch. I used a thermorest and foam pad but it pushed my body up against the top of the pass thru. (i sleep on my side). if I did it now, I would put a thin rigid board down (1/4" )just to get a flat smooth space then sleep pad.

never sleep in reclined seat, it sucks and screws you up for ski/riding next day.

^^ teardrop looks pretty cool. that german thing is interesting as well.

[Hugh Conway]

If you can fold down the rear seats in the civic it's "good enough" if you are <5'10". crack a window or two for ventilation - it's good enough. Best if you've a roof rack/box for storing skis. yes, everything will be cold in the morning and remember the civic batteries don't have much ooomph for warming.

-a many year civic backseat camper

[p_ogo]

I'd have to say im weighting the value of the level sleeping area more than anything at the moment. In my younger and more enthusiastic years i used to sleep in the back of my jeep. After one particularly cold night (-15 to -20) i learned the value of a level sleeping surface. I swear that night took 15 years off my knees.( keep in mind im about 6 foot 2)
Also i was measuring out the civic for some preliminary schematics. It turns out from the closed truck to the dash i have nearly 200 cm's (79 inches). With side clearance of roughly 60 cm's (roughly 24 inches) to 40 cm's at the narrowest ( where my feet would be anyway)
The plan now is to use some nice 3/4 ply with stands to make it level.
THE DRAWING BEGINS.
Also it's important to note that the civic is a hatch back.

[bovine]

SAFE WINTER HEAT?
My wife and I are looking to winterize our six pac truck camper so we can use it for winter ski trips. I plan to put 3M plastic over the windows to minimize condensation. We'll also insulate the top vents...

We're trying to figure out what will be best for heat. We want dry, non-toxic/safe, and reliable that won't drain our dual 6 volt batteries (we're getting a Honda 2000 generator too).

Thinking about a simple electric oil heater used with an inverter. We also don't want something with a fan-as the fan will drain batteries and also be noisy when sleeping.

Ideas?

[Micol]

I'd have to say im weighting the value of the level sleeping area more than anything at the moment. In my younger and more enthusiastic years i used to sleep in the back of my jeep. After one particularly cold night (-15 to -20) i learned the value of a level sleeping surface. I swear that night took 15 years off my knees.( keep in mind im about 6 foot 2)
Also i was measuring out the civic for some preliminary schematics. It turns out from the closed truck to the dash i have nearly 200 cm's (79 inches). With side clearance of roughly 60 cm's (roughly 24 inches) to 40 cm's at the narrowest ( where my feet would be anyway)
The plan now is to use some nice 3/4 ply with stands to make it level.
THE DRAWING BEGINS.
Also it's important to note that the civic is a hatch back.

A 2 door hatchback? what is year?.. Post a pic (file photo or whatever off net) so we can see what you are working with. if its a 2 door, isnt the whole "trunk" thing some sort of fiber board and you can just get rid of it all together? I would maybe gut everything but driver seat and bench of back seat. also you are going to be good candidate for heavy tint or some velcro curtains of some sort. curtains are better for blocking light if you are going to be under radar in some spots.

Forget resell value, your next buyer will be off gear swap in these forums to use it for the same purpose you did. So gut that mutha.

[Micol]

SAFE WINTER HEAT?
My wife and I are looking to winterize our six pac truck camper so we can use it for winter ski trips. I plan to put 3M plastic over the windows to minimize condensation. We'll also insulate the top vents...

We're trying to figure out what will be best for heat. We want dry, non-toxic/safe, and reliable that won't drain our dual 6 volt batteries (we're getting a Honda 2000 generator too).

Thinking about a simple electric oil heater used with an inverter. We also don't want something with a fan-as the fan will drain batteries and also be noisy when sleeping.

Ideas?

imo

The fan won't be the problem draining the battery, its going to be the wattage on electric heat element. I personally don't like any open flame or oil anything where I sleep. But I had an uncle that died from carbon monoxide poisoning in his car sleeping....so.....

Anyway, think about that 2000 watt honda and most home 110v heaters are 750 or 1500 watts. That will be loud keeping the generator running high. I found a small electric heater that you can adjust the heat wattage to as low as like 50 or 100 (cant remember and its in Del Norte) at an "ALCO" store. If you can keep a generator running that little guy wont pull that much power. An inverter off your car is going to suck your chasis battery down unless you leave truck running. And, if you are doing that, you might as well just turn the heat and fan to high in the cab and open the sliding windows into bed area.

But, hey, call in an expert....paging Makerstele....

[That was Pontus]

SAFE WINTER HEAT?
My wife and I are looking to winterize our six pac truck camper so we can use it for winter ski trips. I plan to put 3M plastic over the windows to minimize condensation. We'll also insulate the top vents...

We're trying to figure out what will be best for heat. We want dry, non-toxic/safe, and reliable that won't drain our dual 6 volt batteries (we're getting a Honda 2000 generator too).

Thinking about a simple electric oil heater used with an inverter. We also don't want something with a fan-as the fan will drain batteries and also be noisy when sleeping.

Ideas?

+

[Micol]

+

QFT



GSA12

[DanoT]

SAFE WINTER HEAT?
My wife and I are looking to winterize our six pac truck camper so we can use it for winter ski trips. I plan to put 3M plastic over the windows to minimize condensation. We'll also insulate the top vents...

We're trying to figure out what will be best for heat. We want dry, non-toxic/safe, and reliable that won't drain our dual 6 volt batteries (we're getting a Honda 2000 generator too).

Thinking about a simple electric oil heater used with an inverter. We also don't want something with a fan-as the fan will drain batteries and also be noisy when sleeping.

Ideas?

3M film won't help much with condensation but will help a bit with insulation if you can create a small gap between the film and the window. By the time you are finished apres skiing it will be dark so you can't look out the window anyway so just forget the film and cover the window with 1" extruded poly insulation or Reflectix insulation.

Best way to stay warm, comfortable and safe is insulate wherever you can, as much as you can and heat with a 18k-20k BTU propane furnace that will drain down your battery in a day or two. While using your generator to charge your batteries, turn off your propane furnace so you won't be draining your battery while you are trying to charge it. Then plug in a 900 watt electric heater and you should be able to still run a Honda eu2000 on eco mode. I can with mine.

Noise: the propane furnace fan motor is the sound of warmth so get use to it and wear ear plugs cause the ski area parking lot plow is way nosier.

Condensation is mostly caused by your breathing so open 2 vents or a vent and widow with one of the openings as close to your head as possible.

[Name Redacted]

Something like this:



Or the bigger ones. Safe for indoor use, search "mr heater"

[hambergerz]

propane heaters add moisture to the air and many have a low oxygen auto shut off making them worthless for a lot of ski area parking lots

[DanoT]

propane heaters add moisture to the air and many have a low oxygen auto shut off making them worthless for a lot of ski area parking lots

A built in propane furnace is vented to the outside so less moisture ends of inside than a portable propane catalytic heater. It's also safer.

[jon gaper]

Anyone tried those dehumidifiers with absorbent white pellets for preventing condensation? I have used them in parked empty cars in a damp climate and they do remove quarts of h2o very nicely.You could just open it at night to extend the pellets usable period of use.

[El Chupacabra]

Leaving a candle burning also cuts down on the amount of condensation, and adds a tiny bit of warmth. Do this safely, like in a candle lantern, or far away from your sleeping place -- on the dashboard?

[Sparwood Dave]

Re Safe Winter Heat
Use your sealed vent high tech furnace and recharge your batteries with the generator.
Electric heat makes no sense unless you are plugged in. Install an Intellipower converter with Charge Wizard (smart charger) and use the 110 output on the generator not the 12 volt output. You will get at least 2 days between recharges depending on temperature.
Re condensation- any combustion inside will add condensation so minimize it. No candles, no catalytic converters, no buddy heaters, etc. 3M film won't help. As suggested cut 1" foam panels to fit your windows and cover with reflectex using foam compatible adheshive. Very cheap and very effective. Refectex side faces in in the winter and out in summer to reflect away heat. Also make panels for any skylights
but don't cover your vents. Please PM with any questions.

[boltonoutlaw]

Sick-ass deal on this rig. Talked to seller, price is real:
2002 Ford E-450 Bigfoot 29RQ motorhome, with slide, 29K miles - $18900

[krp8128]

Plan to do some sleeping in my Nissan Xterra this winter. With the passegner front seat pushed forward and the back seats folded flat it is quite roomy. To do items (at the moment) include:

1. Insulation for the rear hatch window, rear windows and rear door windows
2. Fab legs or find a suitable object (storage bin should work well) to level out the rear seat when folded down
   
   1. Determine if a sleeping platform should be fabricated
   
   
3. Heat
   
   1. Would like to add a 2nd battery, isolator and solar charger for heat blankets (and summer use) but not sure if this is fea$ible this fall
   2. Most likely just going to end up with a 2nd heavy sleeping bag, along with my current 20 degree bag and a down comforter on top of a nice piece of foam
   
   
4. Order foam pad
5. Fabricate rear escape mechanism (rear hatch does not open from the inside)
6. Ski storage solution (would like a roof box)

[Sparwood Dave]

Bigfoot is the best of the best in Class C motorhomes. Made in Armstrong BC and built for winter.

[boltonoutlaw]

Bigfoot is the best of the best in Class C motorhomes. Made in Armstrong BC and built for winter.

I'm seriously tempted by this rig. About 10' longer than I'd like, and no 4x4, but never seen an inexpensive Bigfoot. And usually, it is a slide-in camper costing more than this entire rig. Nothing is insulated as well as a BF, that's for sure.

[kona12]

Something like this:



Or the bigger ones. Safe for indoor use, search "mr heater"

The Buddy series of propane heaters are not safe for indoor use as they burn a traditional flame and put off co2. For safe heat you need to look a propane heaters that use a catalyst to burn (aka catalytic heaters). they put off little to no co2. The most popular for RV use are the Olympian series. Last year I used a coleman black cat plumbed to my 5 gallon tank and it kept my Truck Camper in the mid 60's. I would occasionally use my forced air heater on colder mornings but not very often so I could conserve my battery. Also invest in a co2/propane detector for peace of mind.

Someone mentioned the dehumidifiers with the little pellets. I used on at the end of winter and it seemed to help. Still had condensation on the roof but less of it. Be careful with the water in the catch basin though as it burns if you spill it on you!

Cant wait for year 2 of parking lot crashing!

[spanghew]

I've used the Big Buddy catalytic heater in my Class C motor home for four years. You need to leave a window cracked; I generally leave two cracked, as the shutoff on the heaters can be sensitive, and it can be hard to get them going again if the oxygen sensor shuts them down. And there's no condensation problem at all, despite the eager young scientists who insist there must be, with this approach. And no power is req'd to run the things, though there is a fan you can connect to 12v. RV built-in heaters suck a lot of juice, make a lot of noise, get too hot before they shut off & too cold before they kick on . . . Plus they have a feather switch that often prevents them from coming on.

[El Chupacabra]

RV built-in heaters suck a lot of juice, make a lot of noise, get too hot before they shut off & too cold before they kick on . . . Plus they have a feather switch that often prevents them from coming on.

Are you still using the original (crude) mercury switch thermostat? You really need to swap in a digital thermostat -- $15-20 and a few minutes work, and the furnace will work a lot better (more accurate temp holding). They do make noise, and the fan does require electricity. Not much you can do about the noise, but a large battery bank will take care of the electricity problem.

If it's cold enough to need the heater in my camper, I still only set it really low for night-time use -- like 50 degrees -- since I don't need it to be warmer than that at night. This reduces the amount of cycling/ noise/ propane + electrical consumption.

[Name Redacted]

The Buddy series of propane heaters are not safe for indoor use as they burn a traditional flame and put off co2. For safe heat you need to look a propane heaters that use a catalyst to burn (aka catalytic heaters). they put off little to no co2. The most popular for RV use are the Olympian series. Last year I used a coleman black cat plumbed to my 5 gallon tank and it kept my Truck Camper in the mid 60's. I would occasionally use my forced air heater on colder mornings but not very often so I could conserve my battery. Also invest in a co2/propane detector for peace of mind.

Someone mentioned the dehumidifiers with the little pellets. I used on at the end of winter and it seemed to help. Still had condensation on the roof but less of it. Be careful with the water in the catch basin though as it burns if you spill it on you!

Cant wait for year 2 of parking lot crashing!

A) they are safe for indoor use.
B) heaters put off carbon monoxide not carbon dioxide