TR: Chamonix Redux, 4/2008

[HotCarl]

Those mountains suck,man. They don't even groom em.

[FFsup]

It might have not have looked like it from town, but we actually managed very good vis for the whole way down cosmiques the day before yesterday (3rd april)... All the way down to 1350m

[jumpturn]

That monoskier in the chute is simply too legit.

Yea, he is a known rad dude; he got in two laps that day. He made a few turns in there which were burly....

[jumpturn]

It might have not have looked like it from town, but we actually managed very good vis for the whole way down cosmiques the day before yesterday (3rd april)... All the way down to 1350m

I believe it because the weather was coming from the other direction. A very fine serac band targeting the exit, hunh? (See photo)

Nice! Did the right hand one in January in awesome conditions; only walked 5 min. The little combat trail is sporty!

The other two variants look like fun as well ...

[Scottish_Skier]

JumpTurn - I believe that you have a little story to tell.....
Hope you remembered you TGR social conscience and took some photos

[jumpturn]

Rest day. Went looking for Greg and, as good karma has it, stumbled into him before reaching his hotel. We hit the rock gym in Les Houches and got enough of a work out that Greg will go back when he gets back down!

[jumpturn]

Skied the Couloir des Cosmqiues again with Stantonbum1.

Stantonbum1 wanted to ski in Chamonix on Sunday. I would probably have taken a rest day, but what the heck. We opted to try for something off the Aguille de Midi, and proceeded to lay siege at the telepherique station. After waiting around for a while, the top opened and we reached the Aguille de midi about noon. After a coffee, we headed down to the Col des Cosmiques in clear conditions. We descended the Cosmiques in variable clouds, alternating between quite clear and foggy. We waited out the fog and skied the clear patches. The snow conditions were pretty good, although there was some hardpack on the top. A couple guys rapped in while we were down climbing and skied the line before us.

After reaching the Glacier des Bossons, the visibility took a turn for the worse. We followed the previous parties tracks to the serac fall and more or less along the contouring traverse. Visibility became steadily worse on the traverse and came down to about 3 meters. Meanwhile the slope we were on was getting a little 'lanchy with surface slabs adding to the adventure (I cut loose two). Although we had a GPS, I had been unable to load the topo map (due to 4 days of crashing Garmin software) and somehow my paper map was not my pack! Stantonbum1 decided we should sms our coordinates to a friend and see if we could get a bearing to hit the ancienne piste des glaciers. Not enough money on his phone to receive calls.

Instead of waiting for clearing (which we were not sure would occur), we decided to lose altitude and follow the right side of the Bossons down. This led to a little couloir that we followed down and out of the cloubs to an ice fall, from which we could see Chamonix. In retrospect, we should have stayed left until hitting the glacier proper instead of dropping into this couloir. We could have skinned back out, but we decided to climb out the right side and head for the hiking trail. We traversed forest and snow fields right, where we hit the side of a cliff band forming a gorge. We could see the top of the gorge 100m above and an easy line to surmount it, but we figured we might be able to pick our way down and left, maybe down climbing whatever.

Before we had a chance to look over the edge below, the PGHM showed up in their helicopter. They indicated that we should reverse course and surmount the gorge to reach the trail down. But, on reflection, they decided that we deserved a ride to town on the grounds that we were on dangerous terrain (and as it turned out, they hadn't had any practice for a number of days!). So Laurent came down and hooked us up and Maxime pulled us into the helicopter, and away we went! We didn't take any photos as we were not sure they would be appreciated, because everything is very business like during these operations.

Laurent gave us several key pieces of advice: 1) do not grab the pilot; 2) Don't be clipped into the anchor when the winch line goes tight; 3) Get rid of anything that can accidently catch on the winch hook or the winched person. The winching and the ride down was uneventful, kind of like jumaring a really big overhand on El Cap, except on a 6 mm steel cable (which looks really thin to a climber). Packs are clipped to a locker on your harness, just like when rappelling with a haul bag, and the winch hook goes into the locker. The helicopter is quite small inside, so in addition to the crew, only 2-3 people can be carried.

This being my first ride from the PGHM, I felt like an idiot when they informed us that we missed the descent line to the Ancienne Piste des Glaciers by 48 meters in the white out! Laurent duly explained to us that we should have carried a paper map (duh!) and a rope with which we could have easily rapped off from our position (where's my 60m 6 mm cord?).

While skiing awesome powder the following day with Maxime, he explained to me that his PGHM team, and especially the pilot, were due for some training practice and we provided a fine opportunity. Now, that they know me and how to spot me, I'm afraid they might decide to fish me off stuff just for practice (nothing like a competent victim!).

Over the years, I have often found myself rock climbing with the PGHM in the sun in the south on some awesome limestone crags. I have tremendous respect for their technical skills on all kinds of terrain and their level of training. I have seen these guys onsight 7c+ and do crazy laps on hard routes in the rock gym. There can be little doubt that they are the top mountain rescue operation in the world -- and in Chamonix they get plenty of practice.

Guys like Laurent and Maxime are to be commended for their work dangling from a thin cable to rescue people. Although our case was pretty basic with a low angle open snow slope and reasonable wind, this kind of rescue work can be extremely dangerous up on high-angle walls with unpredictable winds. (I have seen rescuers slammed against walls in yosemite like a fly swatter when the coast guard tries what these guys do every day!) Needless to say, the pilots are exceptional to be able to fly an inherently unstable contraption in dicey wind conditions near major obstructions.

Since Cham is a small place, word travels like lightening, so we figured we might as well get the story out here. All in all, we had a great day of heliskiing. Finally, got the cham topo onto the GPS and just uploaded every way point one could ever need!!

Stantonbum1 waiting for the first tram to the Aguille with the Ancienne Piste des Glaciers in the midground and Mont Blanc in the background, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Stantonbum1 before descending the arrete at the Aguille de Midi Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Nearing the Col des Cosmiques and the refuge with Mont Blanc behind, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Jumpturn down climbing into the Couloir des Cosmiques, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Stantonbum1 at the bottom of the 60m down climb into the Couloir des Cosmiques, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Jumpturn skiing the upper Couloir des Cosmiques, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Jumpturn skiing the upper the Couloir des Cosmiques with limited visibility, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Stantonbum1 skiing the upper Couloir des Cosmiques Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Stantonbum1 demonstrating his Verbier form on the upper Couloir des Cosmiques, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Stantonbum1 passing the rock band on the Couloir des Cosmiques, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Stantonbum1 nearing the lower part of the Couloir des Cosmiques, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Jumpturn skiing the Cosmiques, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Stantonbum1 skiing between light and darkness on the Couloir des Cosmiques, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Stantonnbum1 on the lower Couloir des Cosmiques, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Stantonbum1 styling on the Couloir des Cosmiques, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Jumpturn descending the cone on the left exit from the Couloir des Cosmiques, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Jumpturn reaches the Glacier des Bossons, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Couloir des Cosmiques from the Glacier des Bossons, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


North couloir off the Glacier des Bossons, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


Oops, cliffed out, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.


GPS track of a descent of the Couloir des Cosmiques (yellow), Chamonix, April 6, 2008..

[jumpturn]

Awesome powder day at the Grands Montets skiing with Maxime.

Something like 30-50 cms of cold snow fell at the Grands Montets. I got there a little late, but there was a wait for the ski patrol to finish avalanche clearing. I ran into Maxime, whom I had met the day before, and we skied all day. Being a Chamonix local, he has serious clues about nice lines and avoiding lanchy terrain. We did a run off the Herse Chair and three runs down the Combe de la Pendant. All were great powder runs. Once everything was looking pretty well tracked, we grabbed a coffee at Logan. The upper tram was still not open due to wind and it seemed unlikely to open at all. So, we skinned up to near the top of Grands Montets and skied off the back in the deep untracked. It was so good that we did it again, only skinning even higher. By the end of these six runs, our legs were smoked.

Windy morning at the Chamois Bowl and the Combe de la Pendant, Grands Montets, April 7, 2008.


Skiers milking the POW on the Combe de la Pendant, Grands Montets, April 7, 2008.


Maxime schralping above the Argentiere Glacier, Grands Montets, April 7, 2008.


Jumpturn floating deep snow on the Glacier du Rognon, Grands Montets, April 7, 2008.


Maxime cruising endless powder above the Argentiere Glacier, Grands Montets, April 7, 2008.


Jumpturn cruising by the Rognon on the Glacier du Rognon, Grands Montets, April 7, 2008.


Jumpturn schralping on the Glacier du Rognon, Grands Montets, April 7, 2008.


Jumpturn with that powder grin on the Glacier du Rognon, Grands Montets, April 7, 2008.


Maxime enjoying an awesome powder day on his day off, Grands Montets, April 7, 2008.


Jumpturn smokin' yet another powder field, Grands Montets, April 7, 2008.


Maxime picks off a powder shot above the Argentiere Glacier, Grands Montets, April 7, 2008.


Route for a powder day at the Grands Montets, April 7, 2008.

[stantonbum1]

[QUOTE=jumpturn;1787840 I ran into Maxim, whom I had met the day before, and we skied all day.
[/QUOTE]

Thats pretty fucking cool. Sick shit

[mtcham]

Jumpturn, do you prefer to downclimb the top section or rappel with skis on? I thought it was not so easy changeing from crampons to skis and have thought next time I will have my skis on from the top. We were doing the ski change about 30m from the entrance top and I'll admit my knees were twitching a little.

Stantonbum1 at the bottom of the 60m down climb into the Couloir des Cosmiques, Chamonix, April 6, 2008.

[Scottish_Skier]

Glad eveything worked out ok...
Nice photos - though glad I wasnt there for the chopper ride. Eeeek !

Its not everyday someone sends you an SMS with their grid reference and a request for the phone number of the midi lift station.

[jumpturn]

Jumpturn, do you prefer to downclimb the top section or rappel with skis on? I thought it was not so easy changeing from crampons to skis and have thought next time I will have my skis on from the top. We were doing the ski change about 30m from the entrance top and I'll admit my knees were twitching a little.

I just make an anchor and kick out a ledge, or better dig out a party ledge with my shovel. Then, you are really having fun! Always be sure to include a higher ledge for you pack and sundry gear.

Unfortunately, on the Cosmiques the amount of snow where we put on skis the second time (at the landing point for the rappel) was not deep enough to bother with the shovel. So, just kicking out the ledge worked fine. One person puts on skis at a time and then gets off the ledge.

Obviously, you want a harness, crampons, an ice axe and a little rock gear to set up the anchor.

[jumpturn]

Glad eveything worked out ok...
Nice photos - though glad I wasnt there for the chopper ride. Eeeek !

The ride was a blast! Of course, spinning around in space might be disconcerting to the uninitiated....

Very classic too. I learned today that the little red helicopter is 30 years old and may be retired soon now that the PGHM have a newer, bigger and more powerful blue one. The little red one was so well designed that it has remained effective up until now.

[jumpturn]

Rest day. Did battle with the losing Garmin Alps topo software today, and managed to install the correct maps on the GPS. Yeah! Per my habit, I went to the rock gym in the afternoon and wound up climbing with some of the local MDs, including two who perform emergency medicine on scene with the PGHM (ie, ride the helicopters). Sure enough, they had heard about our little adventure.... Dumping snow in cham all day. Greg reported 50-60 cm of fairly heavy snow at the col des Cosmiques when I gave him the weather report just now. Looks like snow and poor visibility for as far as the forecast can see....

Busy loading way points and routes into my GPS.

[Ripzalot]

Its not everyday someone sends you an SMS with their grid reference and a request for the phone number of the midi lift station.

i LOLed.

good stuff guys. glad everything worked out ok!

[stantonbum1]

Thanks a lot again for a good day out. The cosmiques was great and so was the ride out the end of the day. See if you can make it through to verbier on the weekend.

[jumpturn]

Please no more powder (especially that heavy stuff)! I need blue sky and clear weather! [Today there is 580 cm at the Aguille de Midi]

Went over to the Grands Montets with a couple guides from Colorado, who had just returned from the Haute Route. They followed me for the first tracks down the Combe de la Pendant on heavy fresh snow. You had to make good turns but not quite jump turns on this snow, but it was still pretty good. They were planning to meet me and ride to the top for a couloir, but they disappeared. No worries. After another freshies run on the Combe de la Pendant, I met up with 8A+++ Eliza and onsight Patrick as planned. We skied a couple runs off the top and a braile descent down the red piste from Brouchard, before calling it a day.

The snow up top was pretty good and getting better with the afternoon snow storm, but the visibility was less than ideal. Finally, they closed the high tram due to wind. Lower down was wet. My goggles were toast and we were done.

Colorado guides Johnny and Jamie skiing first tracks on the Combe de la Pendant, before before getting snail eyes, Grands Montets, April 9, 2009.


Sam really needs a new pair of BRO 190s, Grands Montets, April 9, 2008.


Eliza rips fresh mashed potatos down towards the Argentiere Glacier, Gands Montets, April 9, 2008.


Patrick demonstrates 8b+ form, Grands Montets, April 9, 2008.


Resorting skiing, Grands Montets, April 9, 2008.

[jumpturn]

Skied the Gros Rognon variation of the Vallée Blanche in marginal visibility with a couple of Swedes.

Once it became clear that the Tram to the Aguille de Midi was going to run, I beat it down there. Unfortunately, I missed the tram car with the pro skiers. When I got up there I found a couple of Swedes with avi gear and shovels, so we teamed up for the Grand Envers, which I had carefully loaded into my GPS. The alpine gear and the snow board should have been a give away.... As soon as we started across the col du Plan, one guy showed slight fear and panic, and the two decided they absolutely needed to go down a crevassed variation, with which they felt familiar. Obviously, 40 kph wind would increase the angle of the Grand Envers, making it way too steep.

At this point I was a hair from parting ways and just dropping the GE on my own. It's really pretty basic and I have it dialed. But no, I figured it would be best to stay together.

Andreas charged off on a direct line for the Gros Rognon, straight at a bunch of big crevasses. Whoa! I explained to him that I did know the upper Vallée Blanche, and they followed me out onto the correct line. Once we were down by the Rognon, Andreas took over the lead, as he had done this line 15 times over a number of years seasoning in Chamonix. I was kind of interested to check it out as I knew it to be a powder stash favored by the guides. The skiing was moderate powder (what you see endlessly on TGR), if not as quite as flat as the VB. After he became foggy on the line, I was volunteered to lead. No problem. I had done the regular VB once the year before. Soon enough, we found some tracks which we followed through the Seracs du Géant. We roped up for the last 300 meters because the visibility was very poor. To his credit, Andreas led the roped section. At the Salle a Manger, the visibility became reasonable. We straight lined non-stop to Montvers in increasingly wet and slow snow.

Well, this turned into a rest day on the flats....

Today, four skiers went down the Grand Envers. Greg and his buddy did the VB and we did the Gros Rognon variation. (Thanks for the tracks through the Seracs du Géant, Greg.) So, if you want the place to yourself, just ski during white out conditions....

Skiing the Vallée Blanche in unsettled weather, Chamonix, April 10, 2008.


Low angle powder skiing under the Gros Rognon, Chamonix, April 10, 2008.


Route finding on the Vallée Blanche, Chamonix, April 10, 2008.


Ripping low angle powder in marginal visibility on the Gros Rognon variation of the Vallée Blanche, Chamonix, April 10, 2008.


Reve suedoise d'hors piste, Vallée Blanche, Chamonix, April 10, 2008.


Refuge de Requin, Chamonix, April 10, 2008.


Descent of the Gros Rognon variation of the Vallée Blanche, Chamonix, April 10, 2008.

[Mrs Roo]

Nice one, especially after they didn't get round to opening the lift till gone 9....I had been there since 7.45!

I put the first tracks down the Vraie Valley and followed that with an untouched Italian variant.... Mellower than your day. But untouched goodness all day.

Ah ha! I wondered where you'd gone that day. I too was there doing the gaper route with a friend and her family.

[samthaman]

sick man. looks like cham > mt. washington by just a little bit......

hit me up when you get back, i've got a few ideas if the snow sticks around.

[gpcharles]

cham doesn't seem to have all that many options for terrain, huh?

when does this mega trip end?

[jumpturn]

cham doesn't seem to have all that many options for terrain, huh?

Dude, there are infinite options, but there is too much snow and not enough blue bird to do them right now. So, one is stuck doing the same old boring lines..... What the heck; they are fantastic!

Got another week. If the weather improves, I'm in for it because I will have rad partners starting Saturday.

[splat]

Jeezuz, jumpturn. Sounds like you're having all kinds of fun over there.
Think you could get a me a side angle shot of the Bros while rappeling that shows the topsheet? You crazy mofo.

[jumpturn]

Think you could get a me a side angle shot of the Bros while rappeling that shows the topsheet?

What's wrong with the one of Sam at Grand Montets?

OK, I've got dangerous partners now, so if the visibility gets above 1 meter, we'll be sure to get a shot for you.

[splat]

In that case, a shot of you getting winched to the chopper will do fine.