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Thread: Where to put subpanel in new garage?

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Where to put subpanel in new garage?

    After seeing all the experienced construction dudes in this TechTalk thread, I figured I'd put this electrical/construction question out there.

    Is there a code requirement for the minimum distance from a window or door that a subpanel can be?

    I'm wiring our new garage, and need to decide where to put the subpanel. The most logical place would be between the window and door pictured below, as close to the door as possible. (This is because this wall will have all the switches for the entire garage, and I'd prefer not to run cabling that backtracks a lot.

    I've gotten conflicting answers on this. Some say no restrictions, some say 30" from the door, some say no restrictions except that it can't be behind the door's swing, etc. Salt Lake City uses the 2005 NEC and this garage is unattached.

    I'd like to put the subpanel right above the red broom handle in this picture. (Ignore all of the wiring overlay in this picture.)


  2. #2
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    Phunk, 30" from the door is correct (if a 3/0 door, then you must place the new panel 36" from the door). You must provide a working space for the new panel that allows for the door of the new panel to be opened at least 90 degrees, an open garage door would prevent this if the panel is mounted any closer to the door than its actual width (at least it looks like the door in the photo swings to the inside-right). Assuming those studs are 16" on center, you'll probably have to put the new panel to the right side of the space with the yellow crowbar in it (if not in the next space tothe right).

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply, MrZach. Is that in the NEC someplace and I'm just too stupid to find it?

    What is a 3/0 door, (mentioned in your first sentence?)

  4. #4
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    electrical codes can be difficult to follow and understand. many overlap and depending on your code enforcer, he/she may want it different (possibly above and beyond) than what the NEC code states. just like what you mentioned...the door swing or 30" from the door...say you had that situation where it was either 30"+ from the door or behind the door. the inspector would determine what was the 'lesser evil' in his mind. the guy in the next town could have the complete opposite opinion.

    i would call your inspector or stop by and ask the question.

  5. #5
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    A 3/0 door is a 36" wide door - a common width for exterior doors on homes (30" being the other common width). The 30" rule is in Article 110.26(A)(2). The last sentence is the one you want to be concerned with "In all cases, the work space shall permit at least a 90 degree opening of equipment doors or hinged panels". Simply put, you've got to have 30" of un-obstructed space in front of that panel - the 30" doesn't have to be centered, either. It can be measured from one side of the panel (hence the 90 degree openeing statement)

  6. #6
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    Best way to handle it is to call the inspection # on your permit and talk to him/her directly.That way there is no problems with getting it signed off.I do this ocassionaly.Last I new there was only the 18" open space on each side and 36" in front of the panel per code.If someone has the Nec code article # stating something different post it up.I would like to see it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by phUnk View Post
    Thanks for the reply, MrZach. Is that in the NEC someplace and I'm just too stupid to find it?

    What is a 3/0 door, (mentioned in your first sentence?)
    3' wide.

    2/8 would be 2' 8" wide...etc.

  8. #8
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    I don't understand why you're running your red wires up and down. Up here you can run the wire horizontally from box to box. It's a bit more hastle with insulation but shorter wire runs are better in general.
    If you have a problem & think that someone else is going to solve it for you then you have two problems.

  9. #9
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    Article 110.26(A)(1) = Depth of working space
    Article 110.26(A)(2) = Width of working space

  10. #10
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    Don't forget the conduit for all the exposed cable on the walls.
    You see, in this world there's two kinds of people, my friend: Those with loaded guns and those who dig. You dig.

  11. #11
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    Such a considerate young man....

    That's nice you're re-wiring. That way the lighting will be better for that next fucking fuck that steals one of your bicycles.
    Quando paramucho mi amore de felice carathon.
    Mundo paparazzi mi amore cicce verdi parasol.
    Questo abrigado tantamucho que canite carousel.


  12. #12
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Snow Dog View Post
    I don't understand why you're running your red wires up and down. Up here you can run the wire horizontally from box to box. It's a bit more hastle with insulation but shorter wire runs are better in general.
    Quote Originally Posted by phUnk
    (Ignore all of the wiring overlay in this picture.)



    Thanks for all the replies, everyone. I wanted to get more information (and better understand the NEC as per MrZachs direct quote) today. I'm sure the inspection office is closed for the holiday.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by irul&ublo View Post
    That's nice you're re-wiring. That way the lighting will be better for that next fucking fuck that steals one of your bicycles.



















  14. #14
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    fuck that was alot of dicks....

    your subpanel your going to want as close to the kitchen (whatever that wall is) becasue thats where most of your dedicated circuits will be; micro,refer,common outlets, garbage disp. or if your planning on putting a hottub in get it closest to that, it'll be a 50amp circuit and you dont wanna be diggin a trench all the way down to the other end of the house. all the other shit can be cheated with a copper 14g if your worried about cost. dunno what panel your going to buy but the upgrade from a GE to Square D is good.

    hey if you want an entire codebook i'll send it to ya

  15. #15
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    by the way, here in MT and back in OH you needed a liscenced pro to call in the permit and get the power company to come out twice. You Are allowed to wire it up yourself though. Get a journeyman and a 24pack

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diz_MT View Post
    fuck that was alot of dicks....

    your subpanel your going to want as close to the kitchen (whatever that wall is) becasue thats where most of your dedicated circuits will be; micro,refer,common outlets, garbage disp. or if your planning on putting a hottub in get it closest to that, it'll be a 50amp circuit and you dont wanna be diggin a trench all the way down to the other end of the house. all the other shit can be cheated with a copper 14g if your worried about cost. dunno what panel your going to buy but the upgrade from a GE to Square D is good.

    hey if you want an entire codebook i'll send it to ya
    You didn't read any of the original post, did ya?

  17. #17
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    You didn't read any of the original post, did ya?
    ADD is a bitch

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diz_MT View Post
    fuck that was alot of dicks....

    your subpanel your going to want as close to the kitchen (whatever that wall is) becasue thats where most of your dedicated circuits will be; micro,refer,common outlets, garbage disp.
    Funny I don't remember having or wanting to wire the kitchen using the garage subpanel

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crass3000 View Post
    Funny I don't remember having or wanting to wire the kitchen using the garage subpanel
    All the cool home handypersons are doing it.
    If you have a problem & think that someone else is going to solve it for you then you have two problems.

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