I flashed a 5.10d today.

For my second climb at the school gym today, I thought I'd try a 10.d just for the hell of it, since I had done most of the other routes that were up. I somehow flashed it, which almost surprised me since I'd only climbed up to a 10.b in the past. It's amazing what more than 2 days of rest between climbing sessions can do.


http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/3...3mediumyd3.jpg

No, this wasn't the 10d. (Obviously)

We were too busy lead belaying to take actual climbing pics of each other, but I wanted a FKNA shot.

If you'd flashed it in tevas there'd be something to brag about ;)

edg

Psst. indoor does NOT equal outdoors... And that includes the grades.

That said, well done... No do it with a 30 kg rucksack and plastics and you're onto something :fm:

I flashed a nun once.

Oh, and now that we are talking about climbing, here's Nalle (literal translation would be Teddy Bear) Hukktaival on Dreamtime:


And after that, he went on and dominated last years Sint Rock at Arco (only one to top all 4 final problems)
http://www.digitalrock.de/2006/06_arco/

That guy is like one of those spider monkeys!

Sprite

that makes me miss climbing a lot. Hips in and heel hooks = rad.

In 1997 I climbed a .12c (Crack Babies? That short bouldery overhanging one midway up the left side of Cocaine Gulley at Smith Rocks) in my stealth dot tread birkenstocks after getting it 2nd try with climbing shoes. Who wants to touch me?

That move at 1:45 was fkn sick.

Way to go, it is amazing with a few days rest how much easier climbing can be. It's hard to compare anything to the feeling of accomplishing what before was unobtainable when climbing rock or ice.

But ya, don't spray like that at the crags because 10d on rock is completely different than in the gym where it's mostly positive edges, obvious holds, moves, etc..

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Originally Posted by Yonder_River

But ya, don't spray like that at the crags because 10d on rock is completely different than in the gym where it's mostly positive edges, obvious holds, moves, etc..

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I have no illusions, I know I suck. The thread was partly just an excuse to post the FKNA picture. I've climbed 9-9+ outside, but I can't climb an outside 10 on sport. Outside toprope, sure.


Anyway, what is the problem in that video rated? It was unbelievable.

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Originally Posted by doublediamond223

I have no illusions, I know I suck.

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Pfft, I wouldn't say that. Most people on this board wouldn't be making it up no 10d.

I don't find outside to be any harder than inside for the most part. I lead (sport) about the same at both - 10b. I can get up an 11a top rope on either... actually, inside is normally more pumpy and steeper.

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Originally Posted by doublediamond223

Anyway, what is the problem in that video rated? It was unbelievable.

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V15. So what's that, 5.15ish? V-grades don't translate very well.

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Originally Posted by Dr. Send

V15. So what's that, 5.15ish? V-grades don't translate very well.

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No idea. All I know is that I apparently climb 10d but only boulder a V2. :redface:

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Originally Posted by kb1dqh

I don't find outside to be any harder than inside for the most part. I lead (sport) about the same at both - 10b. I can get up an 11a top rope on either... actually, inside is normally more pumpy and steeper.

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You're climbing at a pretty unique gym, then. A lot of gyms rate their routes/problems harder than the same thing would be outside. I can get up some V4s in the gym, but only V2s outside.

Also, gym routes have all the good, usable holds marked with bright tape whereas outside routes burn a lot of time finding the good holds/feet.

:) I Heart Climbing. :)

Edit: YDS compared to V Scale: http://climbing.about.com/od/getting...d/a/vscale.htm

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Originally Posted by Dr. Send

V15. So what's that, 5.15ish? V-grades don't translate very well.

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V14 or F8B+.... Was originally F8C, but apparently some douchenuzzle chipped a bit the holds (wire brush) and hence it got down graded...


And to be honest, I can possibly flash/OS lower 10's with bolts... And the same goes with RP. But, I'm more into OS non-bolted stuff (topping at 9+). On boulders, I can pretty climb V2's pretty consistantly and the occational V3 (but I hardly put much effort on a problem, if I don't make it in 10 goes I move on).

Ad indoor climbing sucks :FIREdevil. The only positive thing about the winter just now is, that I can still go out bouldering (and the friction is prettt good).


Oh, and BTW, most of the holds on Dreamtime are actually pretty good (I could do pullups from them), it's just that they are about over 1m apart with nothing in between.

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Originally Posted by phUnk

Edit: YDS compared to V Scale: http://climbing.about.com/od/getting...d/a/vscale.htm

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Pretty good comparison, when you get to about V2, but I've never seen a V0 that comes anywhere close to a 5.10, much less a 10d. V0s are usually comprised of big jug holds, both outside and in gyms. I'd equate them to a 5.6 or maybe 5.7. A V1 can be an 8 or a 9, IMO. Once you get to V2, I think the scale is appropriate though.

BTW, I just bought the Mammut 60m dry rope that just showed up on SAC for $120. Hey, it's just money, right? :cool:

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Originally Posted by doublediamond223

V2, but I've never seen a V0 that comes anywhere close to a 5.10, much less a 10d. V0s are usually comprised of big jug holds, both outside and in gyms. I'd equate them to a 5.6 or maybe 5.7. A V1 can be an 8 or a 9, IMO. Once you get to V2, I think the scale is appropriate though.:

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Boulder on granit and you'll find numerous V0's that none of the holds are bigger than half and inch (most a lot smaller), granted it won't be on a roof of a severe overhang :D.

Enjoy climbing, I'm hitting my boulder cave tomorrow.

I miss climbing.

Backin the day, I could climb 11.B in the gym, and about a 10.C outside. Not sure what it would be now.

2 summers with no climbing = bad me. Bad me. Bad. :nonono2: :nonono2: :nonono2:

Anyway, WTG! Congrats, now keep it up. :)

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Originally Posted by yentna

I miss climbing.

Backin the day, I could climb 11.B in the gym, and about a 10.C outside. Not sure what it would be now.

2 summers with no climbing = bad me. Bad me. Bad. :nonono2: :nonono2: :nonono2:

Anyway, WTG! Congrats, now keep it up. :)

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Myself and the usual suspects climb about 5 days a week outside during the summer. Dust off those shoes and send!

Also, you should come to The Front and use up some of my 5 guest passes that expire on Feb 1st. (Seriously.)

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Originally Posted by phUnk

Myself and the usual suspects climb about 5 days a week outside during the summer. Dust off those shoes and send!

Also, you should come to The Front and use up some of my 5 guest passes that expire on Feb 1st. (Seriously.)

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When do you pull a dyno over the dog phunk?
Hmm?

When?

I flashed a dirty old man today. Well, I do like to mix it up.

edg

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Originally Posted by doublediamond223

Pretty good comparison, when you get to about V2, but I've never seen a V0 that comes anywhere close to a 5.10, much less a 10d. V0s are usually comprised of big jug holds, both outside and in gyms. I'd equate them to a 5.6 or maybe 5.7. A V1 can be an 8 or a 9, IMO. Once you get to V2, I think the scale is appropriate though.

BTW, I just bought the Mammut 60m dry rope that just showed up on SAC for $120. Hey, it's just money, right? :cool:

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I dunno dude - try the V0s at Hueco... ain't even no 5.7. It's true that some folks call anything easy "V0" whether it's 5.7 or 5.10 but that isn't the way the rating system was originally set up. I didn't look at the URL posted but every scale I've ever seen says V2 = hard 5.11.

Regardless, congrats on climbing anything that is a breakthrough for ya. It's all about pushing yourself and the numbers are just a way to help gauge that.

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Originally Posted by edg

I flashed a dirty old man today. Well, I do like to mix it up.

edg

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Nuns are where its at.

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Originally Posted by phUnk

Myself and the usual suspects climb about 5 days a week outside during the summer. Dust off those shoes and send!

Also, you should come to The Front and use up some of my 5 guest passes that expire on Feb 1st. (Seriously.)

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Damn, I need to move to Utah. I have a bunch of climbing buddies, but only 3 who can lead, and only 1 who has sport gear and the desire to do it. Someday...

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Originally Posted by phUnk

Myself and the usual suspects climb about 5 days a week outside during the summer. Dust off those shoes and send!

Also, you should come to The Front and use up some of my 5 guest passes that expire on Feb 1st. (Seriously.)

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Saving them for the ladies I see. No prob, it's cool.

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Originally Posted by Dantheman

Saving them for the ladies I see. No prob, it's cool.

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FYI: Yentna is way hotter than Dantheman. :D



PS to Dan: Bitch you know you've got an open invitation/guest-pass. I can't climb with you yet, but I can heckle you in between sets of pull-ups. :redface:

Tomorrow around 8:30. Come on down. Bring skin.

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Originally Posted by phUnk

Also, gym routes have all the good, usable holds marked with bright tape
http://climbing.about.com/od/getting...d/a/vscale.htm

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True but most bouldering areas have holds marked by bright white chalk...

What is that bouldering area outside of Salt Lake near the BD store? It's something canyon - I really enjoyed a day out there this past summer.

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Originally Posted by hemas

Oh, and now that we are talking about climbing, here's Nalle (literal translation would be Teddy Bear) Hukktaival on Dreamtime:

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He shoulda just climbed up the tree. Or how long could it have taken to just walk around the damn rock?

Apparently you can't embed google video with the youtube bracket syntax. Here's Sharma's first ascent of the world's first 5.15:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...6&q=5.15&hl=en

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Originally Posted by iceman

He shoulda just climbed up the tree. Or how long could it have taken to just walk around the damn rock?

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Tree would be the quickest option... The other side of that rock is even higher than the one having this route (and Smaug f7C) with no trees or uphill to aid getting to the top... That boulder is on a pretty steep incline in southern Suisse (around 100 km's from Lugana).

Oh, and DD223, even though Realization is a topnotch route (hard as hell) and 1st of it's grade (5.15a), there is atleast ONE route that had been climbed years earlier (circa 95, so around 6 year prior to Sharmas ascent or Realization) that is HARDER (given the grade 9b = 5.15b). That route is called Akira and has spewed out numerous world class climbers (such as Mr. 9a aka Dani Andrada) so it is really, really hard...

You can read a pretty good article here and another good one here.

Oh, and clipping bolts sucks, trad is where it's at:the_finge.

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Originally Posted by phUnk

FYI: Yentna is way hotter than Dantheman. :D

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My six-pack farts in your general direction :D

Tonight is no good for me. You gonna ski this weekend?