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Thread: I flashed a 5.10d today.

  1. #1
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    I flashed a 5.10d today.

    For my second climb at the school gym today, I thought I'd try a 10.d just for the hell of it, since I had done most of the other routes that were up. I somehow flashed it, which almost surprised me since I'd only climbed up to a 10.b in the past. It's amazing what more than 2 days of rest between climbing sessions can do.




    No, this wasn't the 10d. (Obviously)

    We were too busy lead belaying to take actual climbing pics of each other, but I wanted a FKNA shot.

  2. #2
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    If you'd flashed it in tevas there'd be something to brag about

    edg
    Do you realize that you've just posted an admission of ignorance so breathtaking that it disqualifies you from commenting on any political or economic threads from here on out?

  3. #3
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    Psst. indoor does NOT equal outdoors... And that includes the grades.

    That said, well done... No do it with a 30 kg rucksack and plastics and you're onto something
    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier
    You should post naked pictures of this godless heathen.

  4. #4
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    I flashed a nun once.
    The only thing worse than the feeling that you are going to die is the realization that you probably won't.

  5. #5
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    Oh, and now that we are talking about climbing, here's Nalle (literal translation would be Teddy Bear) Hukktaival on Dreamtime:


    And after that, he went on and dominated last years Sint Rock at Arco (only one to top all 4 final problems)
    http://www.digitalrock.de/2006/06_arco/
    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier
    You should post naked pictures of this godless heathen.

  6. #6
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    Thumbs up

    That guy is like one of those spider monkeys!

    Sprite
    "I call it reveling in natures finest element. Water in its pristine form. Straight from the heavens. We bathe in it, rejoicing in the fullest." --BZ

  7. #7
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    that makes me miss climbing a lot. Hips in and heel hooks = rad.

    In 1997 I climbed a .12c (Crack Babies? That short bouldery overhanging one midway up the left side of Cocaine Gulley at Smith Rocks) in my stealth dot tread birkenstocks after getting it 2nd try with climbing shoes. Who wants to touch me?
    Putting the "core" in corporate, one turn at a time.

    Metalmücil 2010 - 2013 "Go Home" album is now a free download

    The Bonin Petrels

  8. #8
    BLOOD SWEAT STEEL Guest
    That move at 1:45 was fkn sick.

  9. #9
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    Way to go, it is amazing with a few days rest how much easier climbing can be. It's hard to compare anything to the feeling of accomplishing what before was unobtainable when climbing rock or ice.

    But ya, don't spray like that at the crags because 10d on rock is completely different than in the gym where it's mostly positive edges, obvious holds, moves, etc..

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yonder_River View Post
    But ya, don't spray like that at the crags because 10d on rock is completely different than in the gym where it's mostly positive edges, obvious holds, moves, etc..
    I have no illusions, I know I suck. The thread was partly just an excuse to post the FKNA picture. I've climbed 9-9+ outside, but I can't climb an outside 10 on sport. Outside toprope, sure.


    Anyway, what is the problem in that video rated? It was unbelievable.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by doublediamond223 View Post
    I have no illusions, I know I suck.
    Pfft, I wouldn't say that. Most people on this board wouldn't be making it up no 10d.

  12. #12
    kb1dqh Guest
    I don't find outside to be any harder than inside for the most part. I lead (sport) about the same at both - 10b. I can get up an 11a top rope on either... actually, inside is normally more pumpy and steeper.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by doublediamond223 View Post
    Anyway, what is the problem in that video rated? It was unbelievable.
    V15. So what's that, 5.15ish? V-grades don't translate very well.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Send View Post
    V15. So what's that, 5.15ish? V-grades don't translate very well.
    No idea. All I know is that I apparently climb 10d but only boulder a V2.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kb1dqh View Post
    I don't find outside to be any harder than inside for the most part. I lead (sport) about the same at both - 10b. I can get up an 11a top rope on either... actually, inside is normally more pumpy and steeper.
    You're climbing at a pretty unique gym, then. A lot of gyms rate their routes/problems harder than the same thing would be outside. I can get up some V4s in the gym, but only V2s outside.

    Also, gym routes have all the good, usable holds marked with bright tape whereas outside routes burn a lot of time finding the good holds/feet.

    I Heart Climbing.

    Edit: YDS compared to V Scale: http://climbing.about.com/od/getting...d/a/vscale.htm
    Last edited by phUnk; 01-10-2007 at 12:54 AM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Send View Post
    V15. So what's that, 5.15ish? V-grades don't translate very well.
    V14 or F8B+.... Was originally F8C, but apparently some douchenuzzle chipped a bit the holds (wire brush) and hence it got down graded...


    And to be honest, I can possibly flash/OS lower 10's with bolts... And the same goes with RP. But, I'm more into OS non-bolted stuff (topping at 9+). On boulders, I can pretty climb V2's pretty consistantly and the occational V3 (but I hardly put much effort on a problem, if I don't make it in 10 goes I move on).

    Ad indoor climbing sucks . The only positive thing about the winter just now is, that I can still go out bouldering (and the friction is prettt good).


    Oh, and BTW, most of the holds on Dreamtime are actually pretty good (I could do pullups from them), it's just that they are about over 1m apart with nothing in between.
    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier
    You should post naked pictures of this godless heathen.

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    Quote Originally Posted by phUnk View Post
    Pretty good comparison, when you get to about V2, but I've never seen a V0 that comes anywhere close to a 5.10, much less a 10d. V0s are usually comprised of big jug holds, both outside and in gyms. I'd equate them to a 5.6 or maybe 5.7. A V1 can be an 8 or a 9, IMO. Once you get to V2, I think the scale is appropriate though.

    BTW, I just bought the Mammut 60m dry rope that just showed up on SAC for $120. Hey, it's just money, right?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by doublediamond223 View Post
    V2, but I've never seen a V0 that comes anywhere close to a 5.10, much less a 10d. V0s are usually comprised of big jug holds, both outside and in gyms. I'd equate them to a 5.6 or maybe 5.7. A V1 can be an 8 or a 9, IMO. Once you get to V2, I think the scale is appropriate though.:
    Boulder on granit and you'll find numerous V0's that none of the holds are bigger than half and inch (most a lot smaller), granted it won't be on a roof of a severe overhang .

    Enjoy climbing, I'm hitting my boulder cave tomorrow.
    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier
    You should post naked pictures of this godless heathen.

  19. #19
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    I miss climbing.

    Backin the day, I could climb 11.B in the gym, and about a 10.C outside. Not sure what it would be now.

    2 summers with no climbing = bad me. Bad me. Bad.

    Anyway, WTG! Congrats, now keep it up.
    This touchy-feely Kumbaya shit has got to go.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by yentna View Post
    I miss climbing.

    Backin the day, I could climb 11.B in the gym, and about a 10.C outside. Not sure what it would be now.

    2 summers with no climbing = bad me. Bad me. Bad.

    Anyway, WTG! Congrats, now keep it up.
    Myself and the usual suspects climb about 5 days a week outside during the summer. Dust off those shoes and send!

    Also, you should come to The Front and use up some of my 5 guest passes that expire on Feb 1st. (Seriously.)

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by phUnk View Post
    Myself and the usual suspects climb about 5 days a week outside during the summer. Dust off those shoes and send!

    Also, you should come to The Front and use up some of my 5 guest passes that expire on Feb 1st. (Seriously.)
    When do you pull a dyno over the dog phunk?
    Hmm?

    When?
    The only thing worse than the feeling that you are going to die is the realization that you probably won't.

  22. #22
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    I flashed a dirty old man today. Well, I do like to mix it up.

    edg
    Do you realize that you've just posted an admission of ignorance so breathtaking that it disqualifies you from commenting on any political or economic threads from here on out?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by doublediamond223 View Post
    Pretty good comparison, when you get to about V2, but I've never seen a V0 that comes anywhere close to a 5.10, much less a 10d. V0s are usually comprised of big jug holds, both outside and in gyms. I'd equate them to a 5.6 or maybe 5.7. A V1 can be an 8 or a 9, IMO. Once you get to V2, I think the scale is appropriate though.

    BTW, I just bought the Mammut 60m dry rope that just showed up on SAC for $120. Hey, it's just money, right?
    I dunno dude - try the V0s at Hueco... ain't even no 5.7. It's true that some folks call anything easy "V0" whether it's 5.7 or 5.10 but that isn't the way the rating system was originally set up. I didn't look at the URL posted but every scale I've ever seen says V2 = hard 5.11.

    Regardless, congrats on climbing anything that is a breakthrough for ya. It's all about pushing yourself and the numbers are just a way to help gauge that.
    Last edited by DJMingus; 01-10-2007 at 05:25 PM.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by edg View Post
    I flashed a dirty old man today. Well, I do like to mix it up.

    edg
    Nuns are where its at.
    The only thing worse than the feeling that you are going to die is the realization that you probably won't.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by phUnk View Post
    Myself and the usual suspects climb about 5 days a week outside during the summer. Dust off those shoes and send!

    Also, you should come to The Front and use up some of my 5 guest passes that expire on Feb 1st. (Seriously.)
    Damn, I need to move to Utah. I have a bunch of climbing buddies, but only 3 who can lead, and only 1 who has sport gear and the desire to do it. Someday...

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