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Sounds hard. If you're only going 1 step above grade, put up some PT 2x8's and fill it with gravel to the bottom of your concrete slab. Pour regular concrete. Roots will have enough wiggle room with the gravel. Put in rebar. Add a vapor barrier if you feel like itQuote:
Originally Posted by splat
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First off It's $60 a tube, the applicator is $100 and both are free since i have them laying around. You live in Canada or something? Inflation a bitch out there eh?Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
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For the right price id look into it. For real though if anyone around w wa needs good green cedar pm meQuote:
Originally Posted by spanky
Got a little more work in on le baqyahd shacktoe after a killer year of skiing.
Kudos to Ullr and Skaadi.
Got subfloor insulated, this only shows the 1/2" styrofoam, there's a layer of R13 down too, and most of the 3/4" ply is cut and laid.
Tomorrow will screw down the subfloor.
Here's where it started last summer and fall using eztube foundation pylons:
https://scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram..._nc_sid=5eceaa
(the inline will disappear, here's the insta link: https://www.instagram.com/p/CDe-WXljvhY/
Foundation detail with threaded rebar that is screwed down onto the bracket holding the wood to the pylons.
https://scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram..._nc_sid=5eceaa
https://www.instagram.com/p/CDe-CZ9jTSA/
Where did you buy the EZ Tube precast foundations? I want to build a little shed in my backyard elevated over a little sloped area and this would be perfect for my application, but I can't seem to find them anywhere. I thought that the borg carried them but it looks like they're only available on the east coast...Quote:
Originally Posted by Buster Highmen
I ordered them through Home Depot. Free delivery.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buke
https://www.homedepot.com/p/EZ-Tube-...UBE5/300649621 .
The rebar is threaded and they provide the nut to tighten down the sections. Being in a potential fault zone, that is a requirement for piers for us. We did overengineer supplement with some cinder blocks at midspan and used rebar to keep them aligned.
For 4 5 section precast sections, it was $540.
So far, I'm really happy with them, solid and easy to assemble. Levelling was a pain, but that's the case with a pour or any pier system.
Remodeled a small bathroom recently (maybe some pics to come) and built this guy and finally hung it up. Wife’s happy so I call it a win.
Attachment 373029
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OK. That's cool! You need a matching wood toilet seat now. If you put a weight on a pulley at one end, can make it self-closing -- the door that is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Shirk
Nice door, butt if ima takin a dump I prefer a door that closes solidly and locks. And you all will prefer I am behind such a door too. Less air flow.
I was gonna go with a latch but it’s in the kid wing of the place and as many parents can attest, less locks the better when you’re kids can be assholes.
Riser, if you come by, I’ll roll out the brown carpet and let you use the real throne down the hall with ball mister and prewarmed seat. Solid lock too.
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Ah, kids. BTDT. Makes perfect sense. And thanks man. Sounds fancy!Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Shirk
Just don’t pee in my sink. Only I get to do that
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Don't worry. I might AC Slayter it, but I don't pee in sinks. And that is a really nice door.Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Shirk
So I keep buying these vintage whitewater kayaks from craigslist. Cuz I'm cheap and so are they, and I think they're cool and like to have a couple spare boats for guests/GF to bang around in Lake WA where I have 2 put-ins 3 minutes from home. They get used for recreational flat and [very] low class moving water. They don't track every straight (nor do I expect that from them) but they're super fun to paddle.
I've been pondering for a long time about how to add a skeg that's easily removable and doesn't require holes in the boat, low-ish profile, capable of banging a log/rock or two, and of course cheap. The aftermarket options are awful or stoopid expensive or stoopid complicated.
Finally came up with the notion (with the help of an engineer pal who first suggested Kydex holding a pice of fiberglass) of heat-forming some ABS. Wrapped around the tail, glued together with pipe glue for the fin, bolt with wing nut goes through the existing rope hole. Not super elegant craftsmanship, but meets all the criteria. Kinda stoked on the result. Have done two of them.
I like it, simple and effective design. I used to live right between Matthews beach and Magnuson park, on the lake side of sand point way. I regret not buying a boat while I was there but I was poor and dumb.Quote:
Originally Posted by oftpiste
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I built my wife a table for our seventh anniversary. We do those traditional material gifts and seven is copper. It's a fun challenge every year and more interesting (and less expensive) than jewelry. So yeah I soldered up this frame for a bar-height table. It's finished with a walnut top now but I don't have a picture.
I'm not a professional plumber, so this took me longer that it probably should have... But it turned out great! It sits flat on the floor without rocking, which is a small miracle.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d6da127ba4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...373e6f0a3f.jpg
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I used to fart around with making things out of copper pipe. Fun project and looks great.
Thank you! Yeah it was fun and I would like to try some other project with copper.Quote:
Originally Posted by oftpiste
Here's another one, a little less ambitious. I bought an eBay rhino rack knock-off roof rack for my Jeep. The rack is awesome, but the wind noise was terrible, on a vehicle that already suffers from terrible wind noise. I've seen all kinds of fairings for sale, but most of them are flat along the bottom edge and shorter than I wanted. I really wanted to make one that matched the radius of my roof, and extended to the outside edges of the Jeep.
I pulled some measurements off the Jeep and drew up the fairing in a free cad program, and then printed a full size print at the local print shop. I used that to trace the shape on to a scrap piece of abs I got at a plastic supplier, and made some brackets out of aluminum bar stock. The fairing is attached to the bottom of the rack with strut nuts, so the top is still available for loads.
I'm pretty happy with how it turned out... It's been on the Jeep for about 2 years now, and it's holding up great. Oh if anyone wants the cad file I'd be happy to share. It should fit any jeep xj and I'm sure you could rig up a bracket for just about any roof rack. Angle of the fairing matches the angle of the windshield for a consistent look.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d0331d0771.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d30df749af.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...331ba9e6df.jpg
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Any leaks? J/K looks nice, would like to see it with the top.
I've been busy building my own version of Shangri La and finally motivated myself to build a teeny pub in my basement. One outstanding resource up here in the VT hinterlands is thrift shops like Re-store and Resource. It's a tip of the hat to a couple of J.H. bars and medieval celtic/teutonic influences. Still under construction and finishing work, but the bones are solid. Using Ipe leftovers from a deck I built 20 years ago for the bartop and 130 year old rafters for the base. Gonna sand the Ipe clean, drill out holes for the coins and give it an oil or wax finish. Should look like mahogany when it's done. Completion pictures to follow in the near future.
Built and filled in 2 days
Attachment 374313
Attachment 374312
Helped my Fab buddy do this install the other day Attachment 375239Attachment 375240Attachment 375241Attachment 375242Attachment 375243Next he’ll come back to clean then coat. This client wanted a mostly raw look so he’ll get a slight tint and protectant out of penetrol. Its more popular to blacken but this will look real sharp.
That fireplace is what I originally had planned for our place, sourcing and price knocked it of contention. Such a cool look!
^is it full of stars?
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