TGR's Summer Climbing Thread

Climbed the Black Streak on Devils Castle today with Gramps (Young Jedi).



Route follows obvious N. Face of Devils Castle, up the center of the face.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/1_G_007.jpg

Saw 2 or 3 moose on the approach.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/2_G_007.jpg

Still some snow left over from the 650" plus season at Alta.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/3_G_007.jpg

Dave leads the first pitch. Cold rock.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/4_G_007.jpg

http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/5_G_006.jpg

Dave focused on a jug at the end of the second pitch.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/6_G_006.jpg

Starting the third pitch.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/7_G_006.jpg

Dave doing his best to avoid a factor 2 fall onto the belay.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/8_G_005.jpg

Dave leading the airy pitch 5.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/9_G_005.jpg

Dave grimacing on the last move of pitch 6. Grrrrrr...........!
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...g/10_G_004.jpg

I hung out at the office all day...

powstash <------ jealous

Thanks for the pictures TH. That was a great climb.

Bump for AKPM.

OK, a few more climbing pics (mostly boulder though, I'm out of shape...)

http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic45060.jpg

http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic45057.jpg

http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic45058.jpg

And finaly a pic of me.
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic45059.jpg
I'm at the sharp end of this "nice" 5.9'ish route, sadly it is R-rated (crux at 6 m, gear at ~2,5m, next gear ~2m after the crux -> groundfall on a nasty rubble).

i hurt my foot last weekend. (while being on the ground of course :rolleyes: )
but i climbed a lot in luxemburg this year.
photos are not me but i did the routes this year
Voleur du spits 7b (5.12a/b)
superb overhanging big pocket fun ending in a more vertical crux.

http://www.sportclimbing.de/gebiete/...r_de_spits.jpg

my hardest route so far. bad pic, super route.
and it is truely 7c (i did another one this spring where all the "cool" guys say it's only a 7b+ :rolleyes: )

bobby brown 7c (5.12d)

http://www.sportclimbing.de/gebiete/...obby_Brown.jpg

my nemesis... although only 7a+ (5.12a) im lacking the power in my legs to do the crux.(only small microedges and you have to accelerate from a good foothold to grab the next edge)i see better chances in some 7Cs than in this thing. :(
http://www.sportclimbing.de/gebiete/...e_Paulette.jpg

Sorry what's your nemisis? Bobby Brown (Weird dyno/ dead point) or the gal in the last pic?

Berdorf kicks ass. Very cool climbing area. Been there quit often when it was still free access. Did you have any problems with permits?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trackhead

Climbed the Black Streak on Devils Castle today with Gramps (Young Jedi).




Dave leading the airy pitch 5.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/9_G_005.jpg

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way too step up to the lead Young Jedi Knight!!
i remember looking at every pitch last year wondering if bolts went the whole way (wasn't leading trad yet then) - wish i'd have known they did would've loved to get on the sharp end for some of them

did you wannabe euros place any gear??

Xover,

We placed one piece on the second pitch, one on the third, and two on the fifth. That's about it.

Gramps led the first, third, and fifth pitches pretty damn well. I remember following the fifth pitch thinking "nice lead, Jedi". Especially since he missed a big bolted belay station that would have made one of his run-outs a little less intimidating.

I didn't post the pic of the Jedi standing on the side of the wall, unroped, and out of rope as he rapped past one of the belay stations. :wink:

We didn't place too much gear, but I thought the gear we did place was necessary to avoid real big runouts on parts of the climb. I wouldn't want to do it without a rack. TH placed about 3 pieces on pitch 6 also if I remember right.

I led Sasquatch yesterday, TH. That thing was even more awesome than I remembered, and just gobbles up pro.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gramps

I led Sasquatch yesterday, TH. That thing was even more awesome than I remembered, and just gobbles up pro.

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Nice Jedi.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gramps

I wouldn't want to do it without a rack. TH placed about 3 pieces on pitch 6 also if I remember right.

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1 cam at the start of pitch 5 (unknown pitch) last year
guess TH is just a big pussy :p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Xover

1 cam at the start of pitch 5 (unknown pitch) last year
guess TH is just a big pussy :p

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Funny, coming from the guy who didn't lead a single pitch, but had his own personal bitch leading everything for him. :the_finge

Maybe if I had my cell phone, I could have called my mommy for beta when the route finding got difficult. But my diaper bag doesn't accompany me on routes, only on runs.

A few days in Moab with my brother and his family.

http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/3_G_008.jpg

Plenty of rain in the evenings, leaving the rock soft and friable during the day.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/4_G_008.jpg

My brothers oldest (6), cranking a V0 boulder problem.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/1_G_008.jpg

Some people are more into hucking.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a..._008.sized.jpg

And some can't get enough climbing during the day, so they boulder at night.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/5_G_007.jpg

^ cool lightning picture

Ditto, cool lightning photo.

Good kid stuff. They're natural climbers.

snowfire and GFP:

http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37507639-M.jpg

http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37507689-M.jpg

http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37507089-M.jpg

http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37507895-M.jpg

http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37508048-M.jpg

http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37508079-M.jpg

http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37507254-M.jpg

http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37507297-M.jpg

http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37521524-M.jpg

http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37521376-M.jpg

http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37507413-M.jpg

http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/30581175-M.jpg

http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/30582842-M.jpg

http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/30582853-M.jpg

http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/30582837-M.jpg

http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/30584581-M.jpg

Nice Pics.

this past weekend spent around Moab with Trackhead, Nicky Nack and Gramps climbing one of the 50 Classics + snorting some sandstone crack

more pics and words to come later
plus i'm sure trackhead's got some good ones too

me top of Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_46492.jpg

Gramps doing his best to "just stand up" and not pee himself with 700'+ of exposure to his right and 500'+ to his left while some super cool hard chica was coming up on his tail fast and hard :biggrin:
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_46493.jpg

Did you do the jump and hump? Racking myself never felt so good.

nice photos Xover. Should done a swan dive from the top.

Just got back from Moab. All I have to say is this............:rolleyes:
http://fritzrips.com/Gallery/albums/Moab/crowds.jpg

I just got back from rockclimbing.com and was going to say something about your picture. That is truly ridiculous. Running into a party or two on a 50 crowded is one thing, but bringing that many clients up there is just irresponsible.

:)






:cool:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mountain Junkie

I just got back from rockclimbing.com and was going to say something about your picture. That is truly ridiculous. Running into a party or two on a 50 crowded is one thing, but bringing that many clients up there is just irresponsible.

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My sentiments exactly. And the La Sal national forest will be getting a polite, but clear letter from me stating my opinions.