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This is second hand but I was told that AXS uses a magnet on the cassette to time the shift and that's why it lags. It will only shift at that point so your shifting speed depends on the cassette position when you hit the button.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Like I said, not sure if that's true but it makes sense.
There's no magnet or sensor for Transmission, it's just the ramp profiles. I haven't looked at it side by side with an older Eagle cassette but they definitely made it harder to shift when not on the ramps, and possibly reduced the number of ramp locations per cog.
This. It's just the ramps. It seems like it'll only do one shift per revolution.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
For one gear at a time, I don't find it to be a problem. It's when I'm trying to grab 2-3 gears at a time that it's noticeably slow.
An example: semi often, I'll know that I need a couple hard pedal strokes out of a corner for a jump or whatever. I'm inevitably in the wrong gear (too easy). So I'll click off 2 or 3 shifts (without pedaling) while on the brakes coming into the corner and then do 1 light rotation of the cranks coming out of the corner. On every other drivetrain, that's enough to get the whole 3 cog shift done, and then I can pedal hard. With transmission, it takes 2-3 full rotations to get the shift done. There are other situations where it's noticeably slow too; that's just one example.
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I have one mountain bike left with 11 speed - - 1x11, which had a Sunrace 11-46 cassette. Some of the larger cogs loosened on the spider (rivets came loose), so I bought a Shimano SLX 11-46 to replace it. Too bad on the Sunrace - - I like the gear spacing more than on the Shimano, and it uses two spiders for most of the cogs (SLX only one spider for largest 3 cogs, rest are loose cogs). The rivets loosened without really that many miles on the cassette.
When I installed the SLX cassette I noticed a little play after tightening down the mounting bolt / lock ring thing. Took it on and off the bike, tried adding a tiny spacer behind the cassette (but then the smallest cog would not mount). Gave up, reinstalled wheel on the bike - - and there's no play noticeable with the wheel installed and through axle tightened down.
Normal? I just haven't noticed this previously... Wheel spins normally, freehub functions normally. No bearing play, grittiness, or any other issues I could find.
I sometimes have issues getting a cassette seated correctly with no play. I think with dirt or small damage on the freehub the cassette gets a bit hung up sometimes. Usually take it off and try again and it sits properly. That's with Sunrace and Shimano, also 11sp.
I installed and removed the new SLX cassette several times, thinking I had put a spacer in wrong or something. The freehub spline have some marks, but everything seemed to seat well.
Seems weird that it snugged down and felt normal after I put the wheel on the bike, and tightened down the through axle
Interesting, that's definitely shitty.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Thank god this is back…..anyone have any experience with the Yakima stage two rack?? Looking for a solid tray rack and I like the durability and feel of it, feels more solid than the Thule ( and I can even get that at discount) but the Yakima is harder to find.
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Also, it seems like about $399 is about as cheap as you can get a new tray style rack. Correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
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Yah the tray racks are pricey. I sold my Yakima hangover as I wanted / needed something that could transport bikes without suspension and kid bikes
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Anyone in the SLC area able to help a Mag with the wife's bike? Carbon MTB frame, I've been through 4 BBs in 18mos. I'm guessing the BB cups in the frame are a smidge too small, so need the BB area reamed (Park Tools makes one). I can pull the crank and BB, just need the tool thru thru it to rule that problem out.Mucho appreciated.
Press fit BB, I assume (since you want to ream it out)? If so, have you tried a thread-together type BB, like from Wheels Mfg or Praxis? Those work well for correcting alignment issues in the BB shell.Quote:
Originally Posted by SJG
Or do you mean chasing the threads in a threaded BB shell? (cleaning up the threads)
I have used the threaded press-fit shells, same problem. It's just too tight and crushes the race. A reamer opens the frame to the proper size so the press fit is not too tight. It's a 2023 Norco Sight FWIW.
What are everyone's go-to rims that are not top end $$$ for old man bike park and also climbing a bit - maybe 2000' for some rides? Don't need super heavy smashers...I weigh about 190 with gear, so something that's decent for weight/performance but not the best of the best. I don't have a budget in mind because I've never bought wheels/rims before. So making up a number with no context seems pointless? Point me in the right direction and I'll figure out the rest, thank you!
If you're going aluminum, go with DT Swiss, and get the most expensive ones. For bike park, go with the FR 541's. They're ~$50 more / rim than the cheap options, but they'll hold up better. If it were me, I'd lace them to DT 350's. 32 straight gauge spokes if you want to save money and you want a burlier, stiffer wheel. Double butted if you want to save a little weight and have a little more flex in the wheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
If you're going carbon, We Are One's are a good bet. That wheelset will be ~$900 more than the aluminum option though. Lighter, stiffer, generally more durable (but when they fail, they fail).
Thanks, that's super helpful. And a good frame of reference. Although it says on We are One's website that they are for rider's who "refuse to hold back". I hold back all the time tho! I was also recommended Reserve carbon wheels which are in the same price range as We Are One but I've never heard of the brand Reserve.
Reserve is essentially a Santa Cruz house brand. They're good. The Roval HD options are good too (that's the specialized house brand).Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
There's all kinds of other carbon rims of varying levels of generic-ness. Quality is a bit of a crapshoot. Shopping based on their warranty / crash replacement policy is a good bet.
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At least on a new SC bike shop bro told me the reserve are Life time Guaranty ?
That's correct. Also true for a bunch of the other reputable brands (including the we are one's). Reserve was an early adopter on that policy and kinda forced the rest of the higher end market to follow suit.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
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My we are ones have been going strong for 4 years under a not smooth 200lb rider. Someday I’m going to justify another set for my hardtail.
I know the kid who drilled the spoke holes for the we-are-one, apparently it was so mind numbing he realized he need to get a life
Reserve aluminum wheelsets are cheap ($700ish) and come with the same lifetime warranty.
I think I got Ex541s for my rail, but also with DT350 hubs. Solid wheel set and I think I paid $800. Got a Reserve rear wheel with DT350 a while back for my Spur and have been happy with it. Jenson had a killer sale so it was only $400. They still had a few on sale but pretty narrow rims and center lock.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Tire overlap question: Anybody encounter a defective sidewall? I just put on a brand new double down Maxxis that won't hold air. Went over my tape with a fine tooth comb, perfect. Valve, perfect. I took to spraying the whole thing with soapy water to try to troubleshoot and I count at least 8 pinhole bubblers Right smack dab in the middle of the sidewall. I've encountered damage from rim strikes but this...like there's no physical damage to the tire. It's like it just decided to become... porous. The texture of the rubber on the sidewall is also wrinkly and weird. How does one go about proving to the retailer It wasn't user error? Literally mild one break-in ride....
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WTB tires do this by design. I've often found that letting them sit for a few days with some extra sealant in them will seal the sidewalls, but sometimes not. Sometimes it has worked to put them flat so that the sealant pools where the holes are. Maxxis shouldn't do this, though, so it's probably worth a warranty effort.Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskier