Ask the experts

[Yukonrider]

My Lyric Ultimate makes a clunk. Sounds like a spring knocking inside the stanchion but its air. A breif Google brings up results from 2017, but nothing current, anyone know anything?

[XtrPickels]

Yeah - That seatpost thing is odd. I've ridden with someone who had a R. Der die so they they switched the battery with the dropper and the dropped stayed up without issue.

[Eluder]

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My Lyric Ultimate makes a clunk. Sounds like a spring knocking inside the stanchion but its air. A breif Google brings up results from 2017, but nothing current, anyone know anything?

</p>
<p>
Could it be a loose volume token?</p>

[toast2266]

My Lyric Ultimate makes a clunk. Sounds like a spring knocking inside the stanchion but its air. A breif Google brings up results from 2017, but nothing current, anyone know anything?

Can you tell that it's coming from the air side? Clunking in the damper is (maybe) easier to explain.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

[jackstraw]

Really it just stays open with a dead controller? I had mine die once and I used the button on the seat to operate the valve, put it in the up position and went on my semi-merry way. Then I taped a pod battery in my downtube somewhere to avoid that experience.

Yeah, when I was missing with it I did get it to lock in the high position, but I kept pushing buttons trying to make it work. I had no time to actually try to figure it out.
This is my xc so I set it at max efficiency height for flat road riding to a trail. I pretty much never ride it at max on dirt, so locked up would not be good anyway. Again, I was assuming if the battery was dead that would happen. Also, app showing battery life but it still doesn't work kinda sucks too. Like having a gas gauge tell ya you've got an 1/8th of tank an run out [emoji16]

[Yukonrider]

Knocking does seem to come from the damper side. I guess I'll take the cap off and have a peak.


AFAIK the button on the seat post (the little one) one click locks, one click unlocks. So if your pod runs out of batteries you click the little button on the post and put the seat where you want, then click again to close the valve.

[jackstraw]

^I'll check that out. I've been lazy with learning about the axs shit. It does work well, but I'm still semi anti-batteries on a bike. And my 95% of the time primary bike is cable driven.

[beaterdit]

My head wasn't really in bike mode and forgot to take the stupid battery off my derailleur for the nine hour drive to Sedona so arrived with the low battery warning. Also forgot the damn charger d'oh! No sweat, that one got me through the first day and had a backup in my pack. That one had sat all winter (inside) and went low by day three and then actually died on the ride leaving me single speed. Was able to borrow a charger for a few hours and charge up a battery and managed to remember to take it off for long drives and finish the trip on that one without a backup. Just ordered another charger to keep in the Van and a couple more batteries. Fuck me.

[Dantheman]

Hah hah! One day you'll only be able to buy ebikes and it will all run off the main battery, so there's that I guess.

[406]

Honest question, what is the advantage of battery shifter or seat post? Just not having cables? Seems like a huge hassle, but I don't like electronics.

[jackstraw]

Honest question, what is the advantage of battery shifter or seat post? Just not having cables? Seems like a huge hassle, but I don't like electronics.

I'm not a huge fan of electronics/batteries on bikes. But I wanted a new xc'ish bike and it was 35% off, so I ended up with it.

The good imo -
Shifting is clean and fast. Multiple shifts can be made with one push. Fine tuning every cog on a cassette can be done with the app. Dropper is very precise and quick when compared to a cable. Feels easier to fine tune a height.

The bad -
Why do we "need" a battery on a bike! Forgetting to charge it. Just another fn battery in your life. Costs $$$ to replace any of it.

It's not going away, so trying to embrace it.

[plugboots]

I'm not a huge fan of electronics/batteries on bikes. But I wanted a new xc'ish bike and it was 35% off, so I ended up with it.

The good imo -
Shifting is clean and fast. Multiple shifts can be made with one push. Fine tuning every cog on a cassette can be done with the app. Dropper is very precise and quick when compared to a cable. Feels easier to fine tune a height.

The bad -
Why do we "need" a battery on a bike! Forgetting to charge it. Just another fn battery in your life. Costs $$$ to replace any of it.

It's not going away, so trying to embrace it.

OK , fuck it. I’m a big fan.
I was a relatively early adapter for SRAM Wi Fli (or whatever it’s called ), on my road bike and I’ve had no problems. Not even no problems, I had assorted issues with my Dura Ace and Ultegra over the years. It’s way easier than dealing with cables. It’s cleaner, easier to take care of, if the batteries go empty… so what? Pedal harder. You can still get home, and I don’t even care. I never even worry about charging them, cause I don’t care! If I worried about it (like I had a race coming up), I charge them and it works. It’s great.

[Dantheman]

Honest question, what is the advantage of battery shifter or seat post? Just not having cables? Seems like a huge hassle, but I don't like electronics.

E-shifting just flat out works way better than the best cable systems, no question. The only real downsides are cost (though less so for road since you're far less likely to destroy a derailleur in a crash) and the battery issue.

[buttahflake]

Shimano di2 battery life on my road bike is really impressive, never mind how easily it shifts even under full load. Cables are done.

[XXX-er]

Way back in the day coach the neighbor told me they used an e der in a race and the battery had gone dead, I imagine they only let that happen once. I got a box of jagwire which never seems to run out so I&#39;m probaly just gona use cables

[toast2266]

I've had a couple electronic shifting systems. I've hated all of them. I'm back on cables on all bikes.

- I don't like charging batteries.
- they're heavier.
- they're more expensive.
- I've tried all the commonly available shifters and I don't like the ergonomics of any of them.
- with transmission, it shifts slowly. (I'm curious to see if this is still the case with the cable version. I think this has more to do with the cassette ramps than the electronic derailleur).
- I am of the opinion that a bicycle should be a purely mechanical machine.

I've had various other issues with electronic systems, but those issues weren't related to the actual electronics.

The electronic stuff shifts nice (most of the time), but it's not so much better than my mechanical stuff that it outweighs the negatives.



Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

[plugboots]

Are you sure it heavier? Not that I care, really, but I got rid of a lot of cable and even burnished off the cable stops. When I originally went from my Dura Ace analog to the SRAM, wifli I recall it being similar in weight.

[Norseman]

Hayes / Manitou sale going on now. Just bought a couple Mattoc Pro forks for 40% off.

[smmokan]

Is this place back? I can't deal with looking at MTBR much longer.

[buttahflake]

Yo, got any sub 2[emoji643]lb downcountry bikes for sale in a medium?

[toast2266]

<p>

Are you sure it heavier? Not that I care, really, but I got rid of a lot of cable and even burnished off the cable stops. When I originally went from my Dura Ace analog to the SRAM, wifli I recall it being similar in weight.

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GX Eagle kit is 1754 g (so maybe 1800 with cables).&nbsp; GX Transmission is 2100 g.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
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Other levels have a similar spread; transmission is 200-300 g heavier.</p>
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[plugboots]

Ah. I looked it up. For me it was analog dura ace 1973 vs. Red eTap 1970.

https://ccache.cc/blogs/newsroom/202...j7ig0kpfRFSglH

I’m sure the list ain’t perfect, and mine wasn’t from 2022, but I prolly went even lighter since the Dura Ace was older, and the no cable thing.

[grskier]

I'm not in love with the Code brakes that came on a bike I just bought (SC Hightower). They are 2 piston calipers. Do I go up to 200mm rotors first to see if that gets me the power I want, or replace them with 4 piston first...

[jamal]

<p>
Uhhhhh, you sure they&#39;re codes? That was sram&#39;s biggest 4-piston caliper before the mavens.</p>
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<p>
re electric shifting, i like mine quite a bit but it&#39;s not a big difference riding the mechanical bike. And on my gravel bike the shifter intermittantly doesn&#39;t work which is really annoying. but that seems to be a sign the battery is getting low.</p>
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The axs/transmission derailleurs+batteries are much heavier than a mechanical derailleur but when you add cable and housing and a mechanical shifter it&#39;s a similar total. For me swapping to axs saved a few grams when considering the shifter, rd, cable, housing. But an x01 axs rd+battery is 400g while a gx mechanical rd is 294. And I think transmission stuff is heavier. I believe that when shimano was making both di2 and mechanical versions of dura ace the complete electric groupset was lighter.</p>

[evdog]

Is this place back? I can&#39;t deal with looking at MTBR much longer.

Im with you. That forum has gone full retard. Not that it hadnt before.