Ask the experts

I don't know why I'm so surprised you all build and tinker with your own wheels

+..3? on wheel fanatyk fix.

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Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

I mostly build with DT Pro Lock nipples, so I don't use the thread dope all that often. When building with WAO rims I use the recommend Sapim Polyax nipples with the Secure Lock system.
I think the mechanical lock system of the Sapim is far superior, and allows you to mass lube the nipples before building. Technically with the DT Pro Lock they don't want you to introduce any lube on their Pro Lock solution, thus you have to spot lube the nipple shoulder/rim interface after initial lacing.
I have multiple tools set up for DT Squorx nipples, and have access to purchase DT products at a better price, thus why I use them more.
I'd like to get a bulk buy of 1000+ Sapim nipples and I'll invest in a few more double square tools.
But I'm happy with the DT nipples for now.

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Dee are you using alloy nipples for carbon AM/Enduro wheels, or sticking with brass?

I’m light but not typically super easy on wheels and I’ve found that I can use alloy reliably on carbon rims since they stay round and keep even tension. Only issue of course is if the tape fails and the spoke bed gets contaminated with sealant. Had to relace the Reynolds wheels on my Firebird due to nipple rot. Gross.

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Originally Posted by beaterdit

Dee are you using alloy nipples for carbon AM/Enduro wheels, or sticking with brass?

I’m light but not typically super easy on wheels and I’ve found that I can use alloy reliably on carbon rims since they stay round and keep even tension. Only issue of course is if the tape fails and the spoke bed gets contaminated with sealant. Had to relace the Reynolds wheels on my Firebird due to nipple rot. Gross.

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I typically use brass for the strength of the nipple material. The weight difference in DT Squorx is +/-25g per 32 spoke wheel.
Aluminum version: 32 nipples weigh 13.5g; 0.42g / nipple
Brass version: 32 nipples weigh 38.67g; 1.21g / nipple

I used Aluminum when I built a weight weeny set for my wife's bike, XTR hubs, WAO, DT Comp Race 2.0-1.6-2.0 spoke, and Squorx ALU. I find the nipples deform when the tension gets really high on the carbon rims, above 110kg/f.

Had an Ibis carbon wheel set that had completely rotted the aluminum nipples that I rebuilt last summer.

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Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

<snip>
Had an Ibis carbon wheel set that had completely rotted the aluminum nipples that I rebuilt last summer.

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This was my experience as well with carbon/alloy nips. Only brass for me from there forward...

I had red aluminium ( faster eh ) nipples on a custom built bike i bought used and I didnt like dealing with them IMO spoke nipples are not the place to save weight

Shop bro was always hard o gear but had a set of carbon rims he swapped from one enduro-ish shop deal bike to the next and he said they never broke or needed any maintenance

IMO, aluminum nipples are the worst form of gram shaving that exists.
I refuse to build wheels with them.

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

Real spoke prep seems kind of expensive BUT think about how much time you put into building and or retensioning a wheel and then get the real spoke prep.

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Because the majority of "bike" products are industry products that are just rebranded bike specific.
FIX is a basically Purple LOCTITE 222MS with PTFE intergraded.
Wheelsmith is basically a pipe dope, just thinned out a bit for easier application, and less mess.

If you want to pay the "bike tax" and pay a premium price for bike specific items, go a head.

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Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

I used Aluminum when I built a weight weeny set for my wife's bike, XTR hubs, WAO, DT Comp Race 2.0-1.6-2.0 spoke, and Squorx ALU. I find the nipples deform when the tension gets really high on the carbon rims, above 110kg/f

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I kinda thought the Squorx nipple washers would help the corrosion thing.



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I don’t think it’s from the carbon, it’s from sealant leaching in there.

Certainly been wrong before though, and plenty.

I don't send like the 25-year-olds, but my Reserves have been the best wheelset I've ever owned. Zero maintenance. One (of the many) things I suck at with bike maintenance would be truing a wheel. So much so that it's the only thing I don't even attempt to do myself anymore.

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Originally Posted by jackstraw

I don't send like the 25-year-olds, but my Reserves have been the best wheelset I've ever owned. Zero maintenance. One (of the many) things I suck at with bike maintenance would be truing a wheel. So much so that it's the only thing I don't even attempt to do myself anymore.

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Up there with bleeding brakes for me.

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Originally Posted by beaterdit

I don’t think it’s from the carbon, it’s from sealant leaching in there.

Certainly been wrong before though, and plenty.

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It's the Ammonia in (some) tire sealants attacking the aluminum.

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Originally Posted by sfotex

It's the Ammonia in (some) tire sealants attacking the aluminum.

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Yeah all natural latex rubber needs ammonia as a preservative. All tire sealants are mostly natural latex rubber as far as I know. My home brew definitely is.

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Originally Posted by beaterdit

Yeah all natural latex rubber needs ammonia as a preservative. All tire sealants are mostly natural latex rubber as far as I know. My home brew definitely is.

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Continental Revo is claimed ammonia-free.

Right on. Is it any good?

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Originally Posted by jackstraw

I don't send like the 25-year-olds, but my Reserves have been the best wheelset I've ever owned. Zero maintenance. One (of the many) things I suck at with bike maintenance would be truing a wheel. So much so that it's the only thing I don't even attempt to do myself anymore.

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I just started getting alright at it within the last year or so (after a few years of learning), usually have on my more experienced mechanics take care of wheels for serious riders just in case. It's so simple but such an artform at the same time haha

I do like carbon wheels for that reason though, not many go out of true very easily.

Wheel building related.
This is the minutia that keeps me up at night:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C5ASF...dzZmFrMWdjcWNv

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Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

Wheel building related.
This is the minutia that keeps me up at night:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C5ASF...dzZmFrMWdjcWNv

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While he's certainly correct, I've never found that mountain bike tires running mountain bike pressures will change the dish of a wheel to a perceptible degree. They'll maybe put a poorly balanced wheel a bit out of true though.

They build the wheel <0.2mm> off-center?

JFC.

You could probably just, like, do final tensioning and truing and check dish with a tire installed?

IME the drive side spoke tension is always higher than the non-drive side and you can hear this by hitting/ pinging them with a tool

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Originally Posted by jamal

You could probably just, like, do final tensioning and truing and check dish with a tire installed?

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Dishing tool usually hits the tire, which makes it tough to get an accurate read on the rim.

The hose guide hole on my fox fork is stripped, complete spinner. What’s the fix? Re-tap bigger? Shove a toothpick shaving in the hole and tighten away?


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Originally Posted by zion zig zag

The hose guide hole on my fox fork is stripped, complete spinner. What’s the fix? Re-tap bigger? Shove a toothpick shaving in the hole and tighten away?


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Zip tie around the arch is obviously the easy fix.

You can try a longer bolt. I believe those holes have some extra depth / threads.

Aside from that, you can try a helicoil, although it's a small hole into soft magnesium, so success is not a sure thing.