I've tried all the methods noted above when I was first mounting my own fucking bindings. I then quit being cheap and bought the proper bit. I don't regret it for one second. It's worth every penny and well worth the money.
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I've tried all the methods noted above when I was first mounting my own fucking bindings. I then quit being cheap and bought the proper bit. I don't regret it for one second. It's worth every penny and well worth the money.
[emoji91]Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
http://i1.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/...y-pants-12.jpg
By the time I got that bit up here with exchange & shipping it would be 40$
if I used a commercial jig I would cuz thats what fits in the holes in the jig, otherwise its not doing anything special other than the chamfer which I can do by hand with a 3/8 bit
Searching not turning up answers I need.
Need to mount a couple pairs of the Atomic version of Sally STH2's this week. I have the OG Sally jig which works for STH. How different are the patterns (I don't have the clamps with me until wednesday)? Can I use the jig I already have to drill enough holes to get to the point where I can use the bindings as a guide to the rest of the holes?
Oft,
this is the thread you seek. Didn't read past relevant page for confirmation but appears toe holes unchanged but heel four all different
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...-Sth2-bindings
thank you SS. anyone got a jig? ;)
No jig, but there is a paper template around, although not on bindingfreedom's website. Its on one of those Euro websites.
Any chance I could borrow your jig in the next couple weeks? I have a pair of new to me rock skis that I want to put 914/6s onQuote:
Originally Posted by oftpiste
Mounted up 1080's rc112s with some minty Ninjas. Bits and gumption from binding freedom/jondrums.
Clear printable plastic sheets to get around old holes as best I could.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...92d53549a2.jpg
The template on Powderguide is a combined STH2 and Warden template. I've done four Warden mounts based on it (actually, I took their dimensions and replicated them in my CAD tool). Note the difference in the toe. The front holes (closest to the tip) differ for the Warden and STH2. The other 6 holes (2-toe, 4-heel) are identically located.Quote:
Originally Posted by oftpiste
As always, a 2 x 4 is your friend, if at all in doubt.
Cheers,
Thom
any time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by abraham
I suck at templates. hence my request for a jig. But might have to give it a whirl. Thanks for the direction.... been spoiled mounting virtually nothing but pre-STH2 sallies for years. Takes me about 10 minutes. Why'd they have to change the goddam holes?!
Hello!
Unfortunately I do not know the English language and use the Google translator. Excuse me.
Tell me please, what is the inscription on skis "max 400 mm"? The full text of the inscription: "Drill 4.1 * 9.5 max 400mm". This distance from what to what? Thank you.
P.S.Unfortunately I can not attach a photo.
My guess: 400mm is the length of the binding mount region on the ski. There's probably extra fiberglass (or a layer of metal) only in that region. Screws installed outside that region would be prone to pulling out.Quote:
Originally Posted by m1ca00
My personal opinion is that this distance is 400mm, which puts on shoe size limitation. If the binding without a platform, part of the ski under the shoe loses functionality. But really I want to hear the opinion of experts.Quote:
Originally Posted by m1ca00
You came to the right place. We're all experts.Quote:
Originally Posted by m1ca00
The twin tip ski bindings setting allows forward or backward about 10 cm depending on the skier preferences. And it turns out that the reinforced area should be 400, and so much more. I think so.Quote:
Originally Posted by Norseman
:eek::cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by NW_SKIER
What is your native language? There are probably members here that could help you without translating, if it becomes cumbersome. It sounds like you answered the question.Quote:
Originally Posted by m1ca00
I'm about to remount a pair of skis with Speed Turn 2.0s that was originally drilled for Plum Guides. The heel pattern is the same, and the only difference in the toes is that the length is longer. I plan on just lining up/screwing in the back holes, marking where the new front toe holes need to be and drilling. Besides moving the toes up just a little bit, is there any other consequence I'm missing? Just trying to get around re-doing everything with a paper jig.
Ukrainian, Russian.Quote:
Originally Posted by Norseman
Should work fine, but make sure the new toe piece is square before marking/drilling the new holes. Either make an accurate centerline mark on the ski, or better: click the boot into the toe piece to line up the heel pins with the boot, then mark. (With back two toe piece screws installed but not tightened).Quote:
Originally Posted by DolphinSki
What's the length difference in the toe piece hole pattern? Got enough meat for the new screws?
mounted my own fucking skis for scrappy early season conditions. let's do this winter.
Yeah, it's a 13mm difference so it should be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Norseman
I have installed a ski bindings for my wife (Armada ARW + Ficsher X9 Wide 90) and searched the internet paper template (92W).Quote:
Originally Posted by flowing alpy
Here and found your site.
If anyone interested, Armada ski gave me an answer "What is 400mm?"
"Hi,
Thanks for reaching out to Armada! The "Max 400mm" mark refers to the max size of ski boot sole length you would be able to use on the skis. a Boot Sole Length of 400mm's would be the equivalent size of a 33-35 boot size. A skier would have to have a 16 or 17 U.S. foot size in order to be close to the 400mm. Any boot that would be 400mm's or bigger would be too long for the bindings to be mounted in the correct position.
Let me know if you have any questions and the google translator worked great!
Thanks,
Kolton Smith ||| Armada Customer Support Team2700 Rasmussen Rd, Park City, Utah 84098 || ArmadaSkis.com ||"