Who is cutting wood?

Trying to get this new 8" pipe hooked up and stumped since it's a straight shot. Ceiling support box is 8" down to a 6" through the roof. I'm stumped because the last piece is either too long or too short if that makes sense. Like trying to fit it in the gap but then have it be long enough to seat fully. Am I just brain damaged or something?

Edit: Almost certain I need one of these. The thread looking things on the upper ring look like they match the thread looking things on the ceiling box. Still don't quite understand how I fit it all together. I can't "lower" the stove for a second to squeeze the last pipe section in.

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...apters/4095295

Attachment 506152

raise the stove up on some bricks?

this might be the reason for the janky install yer replacing?

“Yer gonna die !” is overused here on the TRG, but in this case I think Whiteroom Guardian really is going to die.

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Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian

Trying to get this new 8" pipe hooked up and stumped since it's a straight shot. Ceiling support box is 8" down to a 6" through the roof. I'm stumped because the last piece is either too long or too short if that makes sense. Like trying to fit it in the gap but then have it be long enough to seat fully. Am I just brain damaged or something?

Edit: Almost certain I need one of these. The thread looking things on the upper ring look like they match the thread looking things on the ceiling box. Still don't quite understand how I fit it all together. I can't "lower" the stove for a second to squeeze the last pipe section in.

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...apters/4095295

Attachment 506152

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Is there not a slip joint somewhere in the system? Pipes I've dealt with in the past had a slip joint at the ceiling. Basically a female pipe without the little lip that the male connector piece butts up against. So it gives you ~12" of overlap to play with when installing the pipes and setting the height of your stove.

Edit: here's pics of mine.

Regular connection (about 12" above the stove):


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5048f742cc.jpg

Slip joint connection (about 12" from the ceiling):

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7b00cd16f5.jpg

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Originally Posted by toast2266

Is there not a slip joint somewhere in the system? Pipes I've dealt with in the past had a slip joint at the ceiling. Basically a female pipe without the little lip that the male connector piece butts up against. So it gives you ~12" of overlap to play with when installing the pipes and setting the height of your stove.

Edit: here's pics of mine.

Regular connection (about 12" above the stove):


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5048f742cc.jpg

Slip joint connection (about 12" from the ceiling):

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7b00cd16f5.jpg

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Yep, that's pretty much exactly what I need.

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...ove-pipe/48087

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Originally Posted by toast2266

I find that stuff to burn quickly, and not particularly hot. Leaves a lot of ash. Also seems to not dry very well. That said, I'm never one to turn down junky firewood if it's already in my backyard.

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I'm starting to burn some Covid cottonwood from 2020. Has some mass to it so compared to the soft woods I usually burn it seems pretty good , better than aspen? Yes to the ashes though I have the cotton wood spaced out over 3 cords so its never going to be a whole stove full of cottonwood. No one mentioned the smell. I usually thought that you needed a min of two full summers to dry aspen and cottonwood by extension but this wood even 5 summers there is a bit of a smell and not in a good way outside even if there is just one big piece in the stove.

Hazard tree mitigation days at work are my favorite :smile:. Glad to have a 5# axe for this one. Decent size dead pondo hanging over a property line. Just over 150' tall overall with 40' of double leader. Adjacent landowner will get a few cords out of it. Even though it isn't the best firewood it'll burn okay under the right circumstances.

Attachment 506695

Did you count rings on that pondo? In the western Sierra by me, a pondo that size would be about one hundred years old. They seem to get big fast!

We burned a lot of our beetle kill pondo over several years. It burns pretty fast (lots of trips to the wood pile). I’ve burned less of it over the past few years because we’ve had some other wood available and now the pondo logs and rounds on the ground have gotten super punky :(

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Originally Posted by bodywhomper

Did you count rings on that pondo? In the western Sierra by me, a pondo that size would be about one hundred years old. They seem to get big fast!

We burned a lot of our beetle kill pondo over several years. It burns pretty fast (lots of trips to the wood pile). I’ve burned less of it over the past few years because we’ve had some other wood available and now the pondo logs and rounds on the ground have gotten super punky :(

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This one probably around 120-150 years old. Started out growing pretty fast, but slowed down with the lack of fire to clean up the understory and competition from advanced Douglas-fir/hardwood regen. The other tree I took out (about 75' away from this one) was a Doug-fir probably around 100-120 years old, but a touch smaller in diameter and height. Pretty good looking stand after it was commercially-thinned and then small-diameter thinned/burned over the past two decades.

Xmas tree harvest
Attachment 507829
Attachment 507830

Attachment 507848 every day

:eek: ^ Now that is a fair sized pile of wood.

Commercial, or just your home stash?

to be fair... i'm sure the ox helped some too.

https://cdn.hourdetroit.com/wp-conte..._aug08.cx_.jpg



fact.

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Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper

:eek: ^ Now that is a fair sized pile of wood.

Commercial, or just your home stash?

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Commercial... I sell firewood in bundles for beach campfires

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Originally Posted by donutlynx

This one probably around 120-150 years old. Started out growing pretty fast, but slowed down with the lack of fire to clean up the understory and competition from advanced Douglas-fir/hardwood regen. The other tree I took out (about 75' away from this one) was a Doug-fir probably around 100-120 years old, but a touch smaller in diameter and height. Pretty good looking stand after it was commercially-thinned and then small-diameter thinned/burned over the past two decades.

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Interesting. I need to go back and look closely at the rings on the bigger pondo that I felled a few years ago and the very large black oak that the utility felled.

Its amazing how much a tree will pop when it gets the light, a well shaded tree could actualy be quite old AND quite small, the managing scientist who wrote all the grant apps came by and said " that 3 ft high balsam is way older than you think " his strategy was to say something profound and leave before someone asked him to work

about 15 yr ago I was doing tech work for forestry research on a "juveniles in the understory" project, they were < 4 meters so it was easy to take a disc at 10cms to count the rings and measure the top of the tree for the last 5 yrs growth also check SMR & SNR of the soil

we would setup a digital camera right over the cut stump with a fish eye lense pointed straight up to take a pict of the sky and then use a program to calculate % of available light

also did some 10M diameter test plots in the understory with a dendrochronologist, some of these trees were 5cm tall, but you count and measure them, buddy told me they would multiple these figures by 100 so gotta be accurate, real fucking science eh

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Maybe better for the chainsaw thread but anyone else have a “light” bar? I’ve had two of them warp on me. This new one is burlier and cheaper. Not like I’m climbing trees.

Anyway, is it normal for the Stihl light bars to bend. I’m not doing anything out of the ordinary. [ATTACH][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji639]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]][/ATTACH]


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Originally Posted by Art Shirk

Maybe better for the chainsaw thread but anyone else have a “light” bar? I’ve had two of them warp on me. This new one is burlier and cheaper. Not like I’m climbing trees.

Anyway, is it normal for the Stihl light bars to bend. I’m not doing anything out of the ordinary. [ATTACH][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji639]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]][/ATTACH]


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I’ve used the 28” light bar at work (fire fighting and danger tree falling) for many years. I’ve seen them get damaged from misuse and user error. Also from applying too much force in the centre, honey comb part of the bar, on a vice while sharpening. They definitely have not just “warped” through normal use.

I’m not sure why that is happening to your bars. There is enough bar oil to keep the heat down?

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Originally Posted by skisurfmirth

I’ve used the 28” light bar at work (fire fighting and danger tree falling) for many years. I’ve seen them get damaged from misuse and user error. Also from applying too much force in the centre, honey comb part of the bar, on a vice while sharpening. They definitely have not just “warped” through normal use.

I’m not sure why that is happening to your bars. There is enough bar oil to keep the heat down?

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Yes always topped off the bar oil. Im just bucking trees and keep the blade sharp. My cuts started to dip to one direction and despite optimal chain tension and sharp chain, I’ve had two of them bow. I suppose it may be user error or maintenance but certainly weird. Never in a vice. I must be doing something wrong.


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IME when my cut veers to one side I have sharpened the chain unevenly which doesnt happen sinceI started using a jig

I've only wanked up a bar when the oiler quit working and I kept working cuz we were getting paid and I could either just sit there for 6 hrs with my thumb up my ass making no $$$ or keep cutting

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

IME when my cut veers to one side I have sharpened the chain unevenly which doesnt happen sinceI started using a jig

I've only wanked up a bar when the oiler quit working and I kept working cuz we were getting paid and I could either just sit there for 6 hrs with my thumb up my ass making no $$$ or keep cutting

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This.

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Originally Posted by Art Shirk

Yes always topped off the bar oil. Im just bucking trees and keep the blade sharp. My cuts started to dip to one direction and despite optimal chain tension and sharp chain, I’ve had two of them bow. I suppose it may be user error or maintenance but certainly weird. Never in a vice. I must be doing something wrong.

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That is strange. What direction is the bar warping? Lengthwise, like wanged-out to one side? I wonder if it is heat-related...are you getting good bar oil consumption?

I've been using 32" and 36" Stihl light bars since they came out and I've bent a few due to operator error, but a normal bar would have bent in those situations as well.

I'd never go back to a regular bar in the 32/36" lengths. Makes for a better-balanced setup and seems so much lighter when using a saw 6 hours a day.

the cut will skew to the side you favored when you sharpened the chain it could be as easy as being left handed or however you hold the file, its easy to do and it ust gets worse the more you sharpen otoh its easy to fix just favor the other side to pull the cut over the other way when you sharpen

I did it early on in my saw running gig, thats why instead of sitting in a snow bank i like to do the 3 chains I will swap in the comfort of my shop with a beverage and a sharpening jig i like to make the great chains always

https://www.amazon.ca/Granberg-Bar-M...=SNCe6ih1qFqyn

i like an Oregon version of this ^^ jig which has a lot of metal, Oregon alos make a version with more plastic and it flexes, not recommended

in any case how ever you make good chains is up to you

Ahh I see. Check that your depth gauge aka raker tooth in front of the cutting tooth is the correct height using a guide. I think one side is cutting more than the other and it’s really showing up on those bucking cuts.

Have a 28 and 36 Stihl light bar. Both get used quite a bit and no warp. Considering people bend these bars to re-seat thrown chains, I would wager this is highly atypical.

Also, what most consider optimal chain tension is too tight, especially if you're just bucking.

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backyard gym
Attachment 510004

That looks like a 6 ton electric splitter ?

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

That looks like a 6 ton electric splitter ?

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5 ton from Murdoch's been splitting for over a dozen years and 0 maintenance.
I pay ski patrollers well to buck for me. That wood came out of the new runs cut on the back side of Monarch and thinning by the upper lot

yeah zero maintenance ^^ they always go on sale once a year at a couple of places

5 or 6 ton is great for anything up to maybe 16 " great if you got 115V or run them off a generator

to defeat the safety I cut a piece of wood to hold the hydraulic pump button on all the time and just pull the lever and its good to get the unit off the ground

but some people like to split by hand

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

That looks like a 6 ton electric splitter ?

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My Honda 2000 didn't have enough watts to drive it a 11,700 feet

Burnin wood I split myself during the summer makes fires in the house even more enjoyable.

Six ton e-splitter working for up to sixteen inch rounds. You’re talking about soft wood, right? Not hardwoods?


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I haven’t kept up with this thread. Have you all decided what the best kindling maker is? Right now I stand a log up in a cinder block, and hit it with a hatchet. Sounds dumb, but the blocks were right there and it keeps the pieces standing up. I never hit the block, so…

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Originally Posted by plugboots

I haven’t kept up with this thread. Have you all decided what the best kindling maker is? Right now I stand a log up in a cinder block, and hit it with a hatchet. Sounds dumb, but the blocks were right there and it keeps the pieces standing up. I never hit the block, so…

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I get more than enough kindling from scraps off the hydraulic splitter. But back in my manual splitting days, I would use a car tire (for bigger pieces) or a ring of chicken wire (easily sized to whatever) to accomplish the same thing you're doing. Both of those are easier on the hatchet if you get overzealous.

In the market for a splitter, would like to go electric. I’ll be splitting pine and oak, pine pretty big thirty”, oak maybe up to twenty”. Will an electric split it? Any recommendations?


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Originally Posted by whipski

My Honda 2000 didn't have enough watts to drive it a 11,700 feet

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6 ton seems to split 12-16 ok, it was running off a medium size gen set in the ski lodge wood shed at 5-6000 ft splitting dead standing pine/ maybe some balsam,

all there is localy is 12-16" softwood so thats what gets burnt

I've also run a 6 ton electric off 115 volt in town, most of the splitters I see for sale locally are 6 ton electrics for about 400 $ the wood is all mostly 12"

I think if you got 30 " rounds of hard wood you need a 25 ton but there is no point around here

IME spliting by hand just hurts back/ shoulders/ hands but i do feel like Daniel Boone

there alwasy seems to be enough scrap off of splitting the wood for kindling, my favorite way to light a fire is with a bernzomatic torch with a spark lighter, just hit the spark button & aim the flame up the vent to get a draft going

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Originally Posted by neufox47

In the market for a splitter, would like to go electric. I’ll be splitting pine and oak, pine pretty big thirty”, oak maybe up to twenty”. Will an electric split it? Any recommendations?


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I've got a 28 ton (gas) and it'll bog a bit in big rounds. And I'm not splitting hardwoods. I haven't used an electric, but I'm skeptical of those little 6 ton things (I also think a large heavy round might literally crush some of them).

Also keep an eye on the cycle speeds. Most of the electrics I've seen are considerably slower than the gas options. When you're splitting a few cords, that extra 5-10 seconds per split is gonna add up.

I hacked an electric to keep the hydralic pump running for 2 days straight, we would have a cook 2 fallers 2 stackers and a sled/ driver with a skimmer, fill the wood shed for the 10 weeks of heat and cooking the next ski season

we did this season after season, with the same 6 ton Yardworks electric splitter, zero maintenance

the choke point was always the sled/ skimmer trying to keep

I’m skeptical of the electric splitters, too, for bigger rounds of soft wood and hard wood. Also needs to be able to have vertical orientation. neufox and I live in the same forest (unless he moved?!) and have very similar need.


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