Who is cutting wood?

[mattig]

Species of wood is a relevant detail there too. I had some pine to burn once. Fire was cold by morning. Contrast that to ash, madrone, or oak where embers are plenty hot to start a new fire 8-9 hours later.

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[DougW]

But you burn what you got. Ok if I'm at a slash pile I would skip the spruce and aspen unless its in the way and I have to buck it. If its bucked its going in the trailer. Pine I consider good wood though Doug Fir is very good, the best around here other than birch ( which you pay a big premium. In 4 years times I'm going to be burning almost exclusively aspen and spruce with a bit of 20% pine. See pic a page ago.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Got new 8" stove pipe I will try to run up this evening. It's an Earth Stove 100 series according to the label. Mixed reviews online. I am burning some sort of very seasoned pine that was left here from previous owner. Have also burned some applewood that was left here. Wish I had a ton more though as it burns well.

Have a couple standing dead on the property I need to drop anyway, but they are some kind of cottonwood I guess? Is that shit to burn?

Can get some hardwood delivered for a real premium since none really grows around here.

[toast2266]

Have a couple standing dead on the property I need to drop anyway, but they are some kind of cottonwood I guess? Is that shit to burn?

I find that stuff to burn quickly, and not particularly hot. Leaves a lot of ash. Also seems to not dry very well. That said, I'm never one to turn down junky firewood if it's already in my backyard.

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[Grange]

I've never liked cottonwood, basswood, and even paper birch and green ash for firewood. As has been said it doesn't burn hot, produces a lot of light fluffy ash that is harder to clean, and burns fast. I also find cottonwood can rot quickly if it is not properly split and stacked. If the wood is easy to get and would otherwise go to waste then burn it. It may not be as efficient as other wood, but it still produces heat.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Trying to get this new 8" pipe hooked up and stumped since it's a straight shot. Ceiling support box is 8" down to a 6" through the roof. I'm stumped because the last piece is either too long or too short if that makes sense. Like trying to fit it in the gap but then have it be long enough to seat fully. Am I just brain damaged or something?

Edit: Almost certain I need one of these. The thread looking things on the upper ring look like they match the thread looking things on the ceiling box. Still don't quite understand how I fit it all together. I can't "lower" the stove for a second to squeeze the last pipe section in.

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...apters/4095295

[m2711c]

raise the stove up on some bricks?

this might be the reason for the janky install yer replacing?

[Harry]

“Yer gonna die !” is overused here on the TRG, but in this case I think Whiteroom Guardian really is going to die.

[toast2266]

Trying to get this new 8" pipe hooked up and stumped since it's a straight shot. Ceiling support box is 8" down to a 6" through the roof. I'm stumped because the last piece is either too long or too short if that makes sense. Like trying to fit it in the gap but then have it be long enough to seat fully. Am I just brain damaged or something?

Edit: Almost certain I need one of these. The thread looking things on the upper ring look like they match the thread looking things on the ceiling box. Still don't quite understand how I fit it all together. I can't "lower" the stove for a second to squeeze the last pipe section in.

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...apters/4095295

Is there not a slip joint somewhere in the system? Pipes I've dealt with in the past had a slip joint at the ceiling. Basically a female pipe without the little lip that the male connector piece butts up against. So it gives you ~12" of overlap to play with when installing the pipes and setting the height of your stove.

Edit: here's pics of mine.

Regular connection (about 12" above the stove):




Slip joint connection (about 12" from the ceiling):

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Is there not a slip joint somewhere in the system? Pipes I've dealt with in the past had a slip joint at the ceiling. Basically a female pipe without the little lip that the male connector piece butts up against. So it gives you ~12" of overlap to play with when installing the pipes and setting the height of your stove.

Edit: here's pics of mine.

Regular connection (about 12" above the stove):




Slip joint connection (about 12" from the ceiling):

Yep, that's pretty much exactly what I need.

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...ove-pipe/48087

[DougW]

I find that stuff to burn quickly, and not particularly hot. Leaves a lot of ash. Also seems to not dry very well. That said, I'm never one to turn down junky firewood if it's already in my backyard.

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I'm starting to burn some Covid cottonwood from 2020. Has some mass to it so compared to the soft woods I usually burn it seems pretty good , better than aspen? Yes to the ashes though I have the cotton wood spaced out over 3 cords so its never going to be a whole stove full of cottonwood. No one mentioned the smell. I usually thought that you needed a min of two full summers to dry aspen and cottonwood by extension but this wood even 5 summers there is a bit of a smell and not in a good way outside even if there is just one big piece in the stove.

[donutlynx]

Hazard tree mitigation days at work are my favorite . Glad to have a 5# axe for this one. Decent size dead pondo hanging over a property line. Just over 150' tall overall with 40' of double leader. Adjacent landowner will get a few cords out of it. Even though it isn't the best firewood it'll burn okay under the right circumstances.

[bodywhomper]

Did you count rings on that pondo? In the western Sierra by me, a pondo that size would be about one hundred years old. They seem to get big fast!

We burned a lot of our beetle kill pondo over several years. It burns pretty fast (lots of trips to the wood pile). I’ve burned less of it over the past few years because we’ve had some other wood available and now the pondo logs and rounds on the ground have gotten super punky

[donutlynx]

Did you count rings on that pondo? In the western Sierra by me, a pondo that size would be about one hundred years old. They seem to get big fast!

We burned a lot of our beetle kill pondo over several years. It burns pretty fast (lots of trips to the wood pile). I’ve burned less of it over the past few years because we’ve had some other wood available and now the pondo logs and rounds on the ground have gotten super punky

This one probably around 120-150 years old. Started out growing pretty fast, but slowed down with the lack of fire to clean up the understory and competition from advanced Douglas-fir/hardwood regen. The other tree I took out (about 75' away from this one) was a Doug-fir probably around 100-120 years old, but a touch smaller in diameter and height. Pretty good looking stand after it was commercially-thinned and then small-diameter thinned/burned over the past two decades.

[bodywhomper]

Xmas tree harvest

[sanjuanworm]

every day

[Meadow Skipper]

^ Now that is a fair sized pile of wood.

Commercial, or just your home stash?

[m2711c]

to be fair... i'm sure the ox helped some too.





fact.

[sanjuanworm]

^ Now that is a fair sized pile of wood.

Commercial, or just your home stash?

Commercial... I sell firewood in bundles for beach campfires

[bodywhomper]

This one probably around 120-150 years old. Started out growing pretty fast, but slowed down with the lack of fire to clean up the understory and competition from advanced Douglas-fir/hardwood regen. The other tree I took out (about 75' away from this one) was a Doug-fir probably around 100-120 years old, but a touch smaller in diameter and height. Pretty good looking stand after it was commercially-thinned and then small-diameter thinned/burned over the past two decades.

Interesting. I need to go back and look closely at the rings on the bigger pondo that I felled a few years ago and the very large black oak that the utility felled.

[XXX-er]

Its amazing how much a tree will pop when it gets the light, a well shaded tree could actualy be quite old AND quite small, the managing scientist who wrote all the grant apps came by and said " that 3 ft high balsam is way older than you think " his strategy was to say something profound and leave before someone asked him to work

about 15 yr ago I was doing tech work for forestry research on a "juveniles in the understory" project, they were < 4 meters so it was easy to take a disc at 10cms to count the rings and measure the top of the tree for the last 5 yrs growth also check SMR & SNR of the soil

we would setup a digital camera right over the cut stump with a fish eye lense pointed straight up to take a pict of the sky and then use a program to calculate % of available light

also did some 10M diameter test plots in the understory with a dendrochronologist, some of these trees were 5cm tall, but you count and measure them, buddy told me they would multiple these figures by 100 so gotta be accurate, real fucking science eh

[bodywhomper]

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[Art Shirk]

Maybe better for the chainsaw thread but anyone else have a “light” bar? I’ve had two of them warp on me. This new one is burlier and cheaper. Not like I’m climbing trees.

Anyway, is it normal for the Stihl light bars to bend. I’m not doing anything out of the ordinary. [ATTACH][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji639]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]][/ATTACH]


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[skisurfmirth]

Maybe better for the chainsaw thread but anyone else have a “light” bar? I’ve had two of them warp on me. This new one is burlier and cheaper. Not like I’m climbing trees.

Anyway, is it normal for the Stihl light bars to bend. I’m not doing anything out of the ordinary. [ATTACH][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji639]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]][/ATTACH]


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I’ve used the 28” light bar at work (fire fighting and danger tree falling) for many years. I’ve seen them get damaged from misuse and user error. Also from applying too much force in the centre, honey comb part of the bar, on a vice while sharpening. They definitely have not just “warped” through normal use.

I’m not sure why that is happening to your bars. There is enough bar oil to keep the heat down?

[Art Shirk]

I’ve used the 28” light bar at work (fire fighting and danger tree falling) for many years. I’ve seen them get damaged from misuse and user error. Also from applying too much force in the centre, honey comb part of the bar, on a vice while sharpening. They definitely have not just “warped” through normal use.

I’m not sure why that is happening to your bars. There is enough bar oil to keep the heat down?

Yes always topped off the bar oil. Im just bucking trees and keep the blade sharp. My cuts started to dip to one direction and despite optimal chain tension and sharp chain, I’ve had two of them bow. I suppose it may be user error or maintenance but certainly weird. Never in a vice. I must be doing something wrong.


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