Because I have a setup mounted that way and I like it.
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Actually dude, you are correct, it is CHORD center!
I still start a mount with measuring chord and determine how far back I want my boot center depending on what kind of ski is being mounted. I kinda like a more centered mount personally and find a lot of manufacturers put the line too far back.
Measure your boot sole from pin line to heel. You're boot center is in the middle of these points. Mark a line on your boot. Measure out the skis(chord on the shop mounted skis) and put your boot into binding and see where the boot center mark lines up. Mount your new skis off these figures
I don't know. While I've seen chord center for years, including in BD mounting specs., It's longstanding misuse doesn't make it right. End of the day, we know what one means.
So basically you find a cord's center to find chord center. :D
(chord 2 |kôrd|
noun
1 Mathematics a straight line joining the ends of an arc.)
OK, I'll man up. Dictionary wins. What next, split infinitives?
Not sure what shop this is, but you realize that chord center is on your ski (straight pull from tip to tail divided by 2) and boot center is on your boot, right? (Almost always marked on your boot with the letter "A"). If there is a decal on your ski that says "boot center" it doesn't refer to a spot you can divine with a tape measure on a given ski using a prescribed formula, it's chosen by the ski company as a recommendation for best overall performance (most companies now say "factory recommended" on the ski, often augmented with + and - marks or mount positions favored by company pro riders.
As dschane mentions, the advent of rocker has pretty much made chord center obsolete for mounting purposes . . .
By boot center I meant recommended manufacturer center mark on the ski. Tele boots typically don't have boot center marked but it is easy to calculate. Just then a matter of where to put the boot. : )
This particular shop marks chord center (tip to tail for flat tailed ski divided by 2, or tip to end of running surface for tail rocker/twintip ski divided by 2) then compares to manufacturer mark and splits the difference.
Shop is Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder. Those guys know their stuff and I trust their recommendations always, on ski mounting or most else skiing and climbing related.
My tele boots have a boot center mark. Most newer ones do.
Got it. Probably best to refer to this as "factory recommended" or whatever it actually says on the ski for the sake of accuracy. Didn't mean to disparage Neptune, I've heard very good things about them, but like I said chord center was more relevant when all skis pretty much had full camber and very similar tip profiles/flat tails.
Those T Races probably have the mark. Look for a line with an A near it on one of the sides of the sole. Otherwise, do as ^^^ he suggests and measure the sole of the boot boot, subtract 14 mm for duck bill, and divide by 2. If you're using a paper template, you can add your boot center line by measuring from the pin line on the template and drawing your BC line on the template. Then just line that up with the ski's recommended mark (or where ever you plan to put boot center).
Yes do that.
Except they might not have pin holes so estimate. It's not fucking rocket surgery.
Not rocket surgery. The boot part is easy.
Last question for the experts: I'm mounting the same binding (22D Vice) on two pair of skis (Squad 7s and Cham 2.0 107s). Any reason why I wouldn't use Binding Freedom inserts on both and only one pair of bindings?
Absolutely do not agree with this and start every mount with a chord measurement no matter the ski shape or rocker profile(this will also give you a reference as to where 'factory recommended' is). I just adjust how far rearward I put the center line depending on the shape/rocker profiles. If you take a TRO ski and measure the part only touching when decambered and mounting in the middle of that, that's a pretty rearward mount and it completely ignores any sort of 3D snow engagement.
wpk- just call fucking Neptune and ask them. If this method works for you, I'd stick with it!
I found it to be a bit of a pain in the ass swapping bindings back and forth depending on the day's conditions. I work on skis and don't like having to haul them back and forth to do them in the evening and I don't always have time in the morning, so I ended up with a couple pair of bindings for my two main skis. I have 5 with Axl inserts and 2 sets of clamps.
Thanks mikey b. I only have two pair of skis needing bindings. Seems 2 pair of bindings are the minimum. Sharing 1 pair between my two mostly frequently used skis seems annoying.
You might just buy a second set of heels and swap the frame.
Edit: though Vice heels dont have climbing wires so they may be very simple to swap, unlike 22D's other heels. Not rocket dissection either, but more fiddly than avg.
I tried that too but broke down and bought another set. Way easier for me.
Mounted Atomic Trackers on 167cm Salomon Q88's last night for the lady. Attachment 183339 Had to make a template myself again because I couldn't get the template in the other thread to print at correct scale. Regardless, everything went well and another solid mount resulted. She is stoked to have her very own skis now!
Two Moment Underworlds, two Vipec 12's, one Jigarex and two Polygamy Porter Nitro's and the job is done.