Quote:
Originally Posted by hucksquaw
hold on thats the summer! FKNA where are the skis?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hucksquaw
hold on thats the summer! FKNA where are the skis?
skiing on slightly and freshly covered glaciers - not so cool, akpm.
awesome pictures hucksquaw and beautiful hike.. when was that?
just a couple weeks ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by greg
ya its summer, we got 3 ft when we were there which made climbing postholing hell and which made avy dangers fairly high, but skiing that was out of the question anyway (even if you did want to carry all the extra weight). that pic is of a very mellow section of the climb where we took a break, the rest of the climb is considerably steeper and more technical, not to mention the HEAVILY crevassed area that we had to navigate not long before i took that pic, with snow bridges that were sketchy as fuck, to say the least, because of the new snow.Quote:
Originally Posted by ak_powder_monkey
yo, this is supposed to be the SUMMER climbing thread.
- nice pics! -
Climbed the Black Streak on Devils Castle today with Gramps (Young Jedi).
Route follows obvious N. Face of Devils Castle, up the center of the face.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/1_G_007.jpg
Saw 2 or 3 moose on the approach.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/2_G_007.jpg
Still some snow left over from the 650" plus season at Alta.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/3_G_007.jpg
Dave leads the first pitch. Cold rock.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/4_G_007.jpg
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/5_G_006.jpg
Dave focused on a jug at the end of the second pitch.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/6_G_006.jpg
Starting the third pitch.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/7_G_006.jpg
Dave doing his best to avoid a factor 2 fall onto the belay.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/8_G_005.jpg
Dave leading the airy pitch 5.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/9_G_005.jpg
Dave grimacing on the last move of pitch 6. Grrrrrr...........!
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...g/10_G_004.jpg
I hung out at the office all day...
powstash <------ jealous
Thanks for the pictures TH. That was a great climb.
Bump for AKPM.
OK, a few more climbing pics (mostly boulder though, I'm out of shape...)
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic45060.jpg
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic45057.jpg
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic45058.jpg
And finaly a pic of me.
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic45059.jpg
I'm at the sharp end of this "nice" 5.9'ish route, sadly it is R-rated (crux at 6 m, gear at ~2,5m, next gear ~2m after the crux -> groundfall on a nasty rubble).
i hurt my foot last weekend. (while being on the ground of course :rolleyes: )
but i climbed a lot in luxemburg this year.
photos are not me but i did the routes this year
Voleur du spits 7b (5.12a/b)
superb overhanging big pocket fun ending in a more vertical crux.
http://www.sportclimbing.de/gebiete/...r_de_spits.jpg
my hardest route so far. bad pic, super route.
and it is truely 7c (i did another one this spring where all the "cool" guys say it's only a 7b+ :rolleyes: )
bobby brown 7c (5.12d)
http://www.sportclimbing.de/gebiete/...obby_Brown.jpg
my nemesis... although only 7a+ (5.12a) im lacking the power in my legs to do the crux.(only small microedges and you have to accelerate from a good foothold to grab the next edge)i see better chances in some 7Cs than in this thing. :(
http://www.sportclimbing.de/gebiete/...e_Paulette.jpg
Sorry what's your nemisis? Bobby Brown (Weird dyno/ dead point) or the gal in the last pic?
Berdorf kicks ass. Very cool climbing area. Been there quit often when it was still free access. Did you have any problems with permits?
way too step up to the lead Young Jedi Knight!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackhead
i remember looking at every pitch last year wondering if bolts went the whole way (wasn't leading trad yet then) - wish i'd have known they did would've loved to get on the sharp end for some of them
did you wannabe euros place any gear??
Xover,
We placed one piece on the second pitch, one on the third, and two on the fifth. That's about it.
Gramps led the first, third, and fifth pitches pretty damn well. I remember following the fifth pitch thinking "nice lead, Jedi". Especially since he missed a big bolted belay station that would have made one of his run-outs a little less intimidating.
I didn't post the pic of the Jedi standing on the side of the wall, unroped, and out of rope as he rapped past one of the belay stations. :wink:
We didn't place too much gear, but I thought the gear we did place was necessary to avoid real big runouts on parts of the climb. I wouldn't want to do it without a rack. TH placed about 3 pieces on pitch 6 also if I remember right.
I led Sasquatch yesterday, TH. That thing was even more awesome than I remembered, and just gobbles up pro.
Nice Jedi.Quote:
Originally Posted by gramps
1 cam at the start of pitch 5 (unknown pitch) last yearQuote:
Originally Posted by gramps
guess TH is just a big pussy :p
Funny, coming from the guy who didn't lead a single pitch, but had his own personal bitch leading everything for him. :the_fingeQuote:
Originally Posted by Xover
Maybe if I had my cell phone, I could have called my mommy for beta when the route finding got difficult. But my diaper bag doesn't accompany me on routes, only on runs.
A few days in Moab with my brother and his family.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/3_G_008.jpg
Plenty of rain in the evenings, leaving the rock soft and friable during the day.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/4_G_008.jpg
My brothers oldest (6), cranking a V0 boulder problem.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/1_G_008.jpg
Some people are more into hucking.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a..._008.sized.jpg
And some can't get enough climbing during the day, so they boulder at night.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/5_G_007.jpg
^ cool lightning picture
Ditto, cool lightning photo.
Good kid stuff. They're natural climbers.
snowfire and GFP:
http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37507639-M.jpg
http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37507689-M.jpg
http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37507089-M.jpg
http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37507895-M.jpg
http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37508048-M.jpg
http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37508079-M.jpg
http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37507254-M.jpg
http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37507297-M.jpg
http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37521524-M.jpg
http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37521376-M.jpg
http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/37507413-M.jpg
http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/30581175-M.jpg
http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/30582842-M.jpg
http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/30582853-M.jpg
http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/30582837-M.jpg
http://elizabethrs.smugmug.com/photos/30584581-M.jpg
Nice Pics.
this past weekend spent around Moab with Trackhead, Nicky Nack and Gramps climbing one of the 50 Classics + snorting some sandstone crack
more pics and words to come later
plus i'm sure trackhead's got some good ones too
me top of Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_46492.jpg
Gramps doing his best to "just stand up" and not pee himself with 700'+ of exposure to his right and 500'+ to his left while some super cool hard chica was coming up on his tail fast and hard :biggrin:
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_46493.jpg
Did you do the jump and hump? Racking myself never felt so good.
nice photos Xover. Should done a swan dive from the top.
Just got back from Moab. All I have to say is this............:rolleyes:
http://fritzrips.com/Gallery/albums/Moab/crowds.jpg
I just got back from rockclimbing.com and was going to say something about your picture. That is truly ridiculous. Running into a party or two on a 50 crowded is one thing, but bringing that many clients up there is just irresponsible.
:)
:cool:
My sentiments exactly. And the La Sal national forest will be getting a polite, but clear letter from me stating my opinions.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Junkie
had all the intentions in the world to walk the "sidewalk", but when it came time to stand up - i suddenly changed my mindQuote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Junkie
butt scooted out to the dip
stood up and grabbed the "diving board"
slung it with a cordellete (most bomber piece of pro on the last pitch)
then took a few minutes to muster up the courage to "belly flop" it - got a bruise on my sternum from it
then sent the rest of it ('cept the cruxy move by the last bolt - didn't see the sequence until after i'd pulled on the draw - kind of pissed me off i didn't get it)
then went to top and waited to stand up till the camera was on
coming back across the "sidewalk" was almost just as scary as the lead out to it
a must do classic for sure :)
will there be any words or just a high quality image of this picture in the envelope??Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackhead
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_46495.jpg
10/14-16/05 Moab TR
With both Trackhead and I more stoked to go climb one of America's 50 Classic Climbs than do the single crossing of the Grand Canyon, plans were put into motion a few weeks ago for this weekend. Talk of desert slideshows and video premiers on the side of TH's mo-home solidified things.
Left Friday evening with TH supposedly an hour ahead of me. The goal became could I catch him. Blasted by his water'd down rig at the mouth of Spanish Fork canyon. Arrived in Fisher Tower's parking lot at 10:30. Trackhead showed up 45 minutes later.
Woke the next morning to nothing but blue bird skies and some incredulous views in all directions.
Castleton Tower (on looker's left) and ?? to the south
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_46532.jpg
The Fisher Towers to the East with the sun rising behind them
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_46533.jpg
Sunrise on Kingfisher Tower from the trail
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_46534.jpg
A little while longer on the trail brought us to the first view of our route (where the sun meets the shadows) - Stolen Chimney on the Ancient Art formation - a 4 pitch 11a or 5.8A0 route.
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_46535.jpg
We had left the mo-home at 8:30, arrived at the base of the route at 9 to find that 2 guides, 5 clients and 1 private party of 2 were ahead of us. So we scurried over to the Cobra - a crazy formation with a short 11a on it that Trackhead put up and the rest of us tr'd.
We headed back over to the base of the Stolen Chimney route on Ancient Art to check our "line-up" status. The private party was all that was left and TH was twitchin' so harnesses were put on and gear racked. Before continuing the story an aside should be made about the Fishers. The guidebooks say "that if you can climb in the Fishers, you can climb anywhere - including alpine rock". I would soon find out just what the authors meant - muddy, crumbly rock that thankfully solidified and cleaned up as we climbed higher.
I got the first pitch clean and snapped this shot of Gramps 2nd'ing
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_46536.jpg
Gramps took the lead on the 2nd pitch and arrived to this cluster at the top of pitch 2
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_46537.jpg
From the belay ledge, guides and clients were going 1 by 1 to the top of the formation and TH just happened to be where they needed to downclimb.
TH getting gaper'd (and probably loving it) :D
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_46538.jpg
Finally after about 2 or 3 hours, the guides and private party were done and our turn was approaching. Unfortunately, storm clouds had started building to the South. TH, being frustrated with the guide/client situation and the potential for a storm decided to rap off and come back another day. Gramps and I decided to stick it out and see what happened.
The guides and clients finally rapped off and we were left there alone with 1 other party of 3 behind us that contained 1 guy that had climbed it before, his hardcore wife and 1 of their friends.
Gramps lead the third pitch using the aid of a couple of draws. I wanted it clean but in the end had to pull on 1 draw for 1 move - a tough, slopey 10+ move.
Gramps and I were then sitting a-top the belay pod looking at huge :eek: exposure on both sides and nothing but a 6" to 1' wide sidewalk in front of us that led to a super crazy formation. Knowing I had called the lead of it before we even left the ground, I started feeling sick to my stomach - getting cottonmouth - and mildly trembling. Easily one of the 5 most scared times of my life. Thankfully my mind took over. I had all intentions of doing it in style by walking the sidewalk, but in the end boot-scooting across it was all I could muster up.
So, I boot-scooted out to the "diving board" (the jutting piece of rock back towards the belay spot), slung it with a cordellete (no pro until then) and started to get psyched for the "belly flop". Belly flopping the diving board is the only way onto it. It took me prolly a good 3-4 minutes to get psyched for it after examining all my other options. Finally in the end, took a deep breath and lept damn near as hard as I could. Flop, stop, breath - I was safely on top of it and stood up and clipped the old drilled angle.
I worked my way straight up the face to clip another drilled angle and then up and around to looker's right to clip a star nail with a ring on it :eek: :eek: I one more crux move to pull and attempted it free, but felt the flake I was pulling on expand and decided the safer option would be to aid the move via pulling on the draw. I then stood up, clipped the summit slings and worked around behind the summit dish and on up to it for the obligatory summit pic. Standing up on that thing was un-nerving to say the least - my legs felt so weak with fear I could barely stand up.
Gramps then lowered me off the summit back to the diving board. Getting back to the belay spot was no gimme either. Gramps then went out, had some fun and came back. One of the girls behind us then headed out and I snapped this pic of her lowering off right at sunset - the storm had abated and we were treated to an amazing sunset with alpenglow on the red mud all around us.
Twa lowering off at sunset
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_46539.jpg
Sunset over Moab from the 3rd belay spot
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_46540.jpg
Sunset on more mud below us
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_46541.jpg
Sunset on Cottontail Tower behind us
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_46542.jpg
We then rapped off, hiked back to the mo-home, had a steak, margie and beer. Woke next day, headed to Wallstreet to snort some desert crack then Gramps and I headed home.
One of the best trips of my summer - one I'll always remember for sure. I was stoked to share the route with Gramps. I hadn't had the opportunity to ski or climb with him much so it was fun to share a rope with him on such a classic route. The kid's got alot of natural talent that is just beginning to show itself after climbing for only 2 years. And the route was absolutely classic; the kind of route that ties 2 people together as friends forever and will be fondly looked back upon for many years to come bringing smiles to our faces :biggrin:
Thanks Xover, that was a great trip. Here are a few pictures I snapped. All of Trackhead, that Euro is always in front of the lens... :D
Leading Flakes of Wrath, one of the best lines on Potash
http://xs52.xs.to/pics/05433/derek-flakes1-web.jpg
http://xs52.xs.to/pics/05433/derek-flakes2-web.jpg
Leading the Cobra, a sketchy little tower near Ancient Art
http://xs52.xs.to/pics/05433/derek-cobra-web.jpg
http://xs52.xs.to/pics/05433/derek-cobra2-web.jpg
And a couple climbers topping out on Ancient Art as we were approaching it. This climb is really hard to believe.
http://xs52.xs.to/pics/05433/top-out-daylight-web.jpg
http://xs52.xs.to/pics/05433/top-out-silhouette-web.jpg
You're going to be all over the big screen tomorrow night ya little punk ass, Jedi bitch.:pQuote:
Originally Posted by gramps
There's no escaping it now.
While waiting in line to climb Ancient Art, we diverted to climb The Cobra.
A fun, albeit slightly scary route.
http://fritzrips.com/Gallery/albums/Moab/cobra.jpg
Gramps on top of the Cobra, looking like the top block will pitch. Good thing he's light.
http://fritzrips.com/Gallery/albums/Moab/DaveCobra.jpg
Gramps finishing the second pitch of Ancient Art. His first sandstone tower. I think he's hooked.
http://fritzrips.com/Gallery/albums/Moab/DaveOW.jpg
Me, and Red dog, on top of Lizard Head. A fun tower near the parking lot. But another run out, better not fall route. Great climbing though.
http://fritzrips.com/Gallery/albums/Moab/Lizardhead.jpg
Mrs. Trackhead toproping the Cobra.
http://fritzrips.com/Gallery/albums/Moab/NikCobra.jpg
Mrs. Trackhead following the Lizard Head.
http://fritzrips.com/Gallery/albums/Moab/NikLizard.jpg
Sweet pics fellas.
How did the dry mud treat ya?
Oh, and Flakes of Rath = good fun.
Wow how did I miss this thread?
Looks like I'm not the only one that hasn't been thinking SNOW!
Way to get out there everyone.
i'd just like to say, i love flexible asians.
Wish I would have discovered this thread earlier... for now I posted a wrap-up for the summer for anybody interested - TR: (NSR) Chamonix Summer Climbing In Review Part Deux
Let it snow!!!