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I had a push shock on mine as well with a coiled Fox 36. Its a completely bottomless suspension platform. Its really, really good and you can just sit and spin up tech. I am somehow still significantly faster downhill on the Ripmo. I think its the longer chain stays and it just matches my riding style better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
That's keyQuote:
Originally Posted by Jtlange
What size are you?Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Evil is blowing out some smalls for $6K
Jus sayin...
Damn dude. You in sales? If not you should be.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Nah making a bike geek to compute N+1 is easier than selling Hondas back in the 80s.
Right? That’s a fucking great planQuote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
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Just doing my part to make sure everyone has more bikes than they actually need. It helps me feel better about my own bloated quiver.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
I need to rebuild my fox 36… I just remembered I only have a 34mm seal driver.
I assume I can get it to work (using the 34mm with a bigger seal) but I’d love someone to chime in before I take it apart.
probably not going to find find any news ones but depeding on what you're looking for you can score some. currently a slightly used one for 380, new csu+service for 520, or an expert with irt for 390. only issue is the cheap ones are 27.5, a few cheap 29ers pop up but not super oftenQuote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
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Buddy at the gym keeps raving about his Propain Sprindrift and the Nukeproof Giga is intriguing. Too many choices.
Propain Tyee just announced on Pinkbike. Seems like a good day to order one.
Both of those seem pretty rad, but neither seems like the sort of thing I'd want to race on. That new Tyee seems a lot more suited for racing while still being bike park capable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Anyone have the Kuat NV 2.0 bike rack with a longer wheelbase (1250+) bike? Does it fit OK without the rear tire hanging off the back of the platform?
I put my Norco Range (1285 wheelbase) on it without issue. The contact point for the rear wheel is definitely all the way at the end of the rack, but it doesn't feel sketchy.Quote:
Originally Posted by smmokan
Double post
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This thread has become like a little crack whore corner. Dealers just peddling bike crack and enabling all the other junkies. No judgement, just need to be careful what one posts that they “need” or are looking for in a bike. I have No business financially even checking in on this thread. I’ll show myself out.;)
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No insight there, but I have one in Boulder if you're randomly in the area and don't want to buy one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
WTF is up with my headset?
Specialized Crux ~1 year old. Built by a shop, no work on the headset by me until this point.
Headset was "binding" - turns smoothly, no notchiness, but if I lean the bike over while pushing the bars stay straight.
Figured I'd replace the bearings, they felt fine when I pulled them, but it was already apart so I replaced upper and lower anyway.
Put back together and no better.
If I put essentially no preload on the top cap then it moves like I think it should, but anything remotely snug and it feels like I'm turning through glue. For example: my K-Edge steerer tube computer mount moves with very little resistance due to how little pressure the compression bolt is applying.
Am I missing a spacer somewhere? Did something get crushed along the way?
There is no crown race on the carbon fork, which seems odd because I'm used to MTB forks, but it also doesn't seem to need one?
Halp!
I would pull the fork do all the cleaning, and them lube the seal lips, and take just your lowers and and seals to your LBS and ask them to wack them in with a seal driver.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
Or go to the shop under the premise to ask if you can buy a seal driver (they won’t have one in stock):
“Do you guys sell a 36mm seal driver, I only have a 34 at home? No? So you would need to order one, will you just drive these seals in for me since I’m here with the lowers and seals.”
Not much to add other than it’s normal for a carbon road bike to not need a crown race.Quote:
Originally Posted by XtrPickels
It sounds like the spacers are putting pressure on the upper bearing cover/dust cap.
And you have the compression ring between the bearing and the fork steerer?
https://support.specialized.com/crux...al-information
Is something out of square somewhere? Maybe a seal not fully seated, or bent?Quote:
Originally Posted by XtrPickels
I had a similar issue on my enduro. Something seemed to be slightly out of spec. The top dust cover was a bit too "deep" and it would bind when compressed. I put a very thin metal spacer on top of the pressure ring (basically just to hold the top cover ~.2mm higher) and that solved it.Quote:
Originally Posted by XtrPickels
Yep, the "Shim Washer" in this WT diagram. Most shops should have something around.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Yeah, I noticed that with my Levo also, same solution. Until I got a Chris King Dropset, which didn't need it.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
OoooOOoooo.
I think that'll do it. My suspicion is that the top dust seal is binding to against the top of the head tube, so that washer might lift it up just enough.
Dee- all the pieces are there per the exploded diagram, nice to now know that crown races aren't used on carbon forks.