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I've considered trying other tapes but mainly just use stans because we have it in bulk in like every width. Have never really had a problem with it going on and sticking and working. You do have to pull it pretty hard to get it to stretch and conform to the rim bed I suppose. I did try the snap in rim strips on my new trek road wheels but probably wouldn't do that again- it's a little thicker and heavier than two wraps of tape and made the tires really tight to get on and seated.
My old shop had an added "gorilla tape" service charge to remove the tape and residue and apply proper tubeless tape.
Customer: "why is this service so expensive?"
Service writer: "because another shop installed a wrong product, making our job more difficult, if you're not happy about it go speak to that other shop"
I tried Kapton but it’s so thin and can be hard to work with. With Stan’s, at least an old roll I’ve had for a while, I always seemed to have air tunneling issues at the valve hole overlap, couldn’t figure out what I was doing wrong, and/or it didn’t last multiple tire changes. So then I did Kapton over Stan’s and that combo has survived many tire changes …
On top of having indistinguishable performance and being cheaper and available everywhere, Gorilla Tape is an absolute pleasure to apply especially compared to shit like Muc Off or Stans. It stretches, and it sticks. Removal is nothing some brake cleaner can't handle. It also seems more resilient to tire levers so there's that.Quote:
Originally Posted by XtrPickels
We’ve been using primarily Whisky tape for the past year after using Stans (and breaking the old dog Gorilla Tape habits of one of my mechanics) Good price, good stretch, more supple thank Stan’s.
We did a Tubeless Tape Shootout, it came down to Muc Off and Whisky, but Whisky nipped out the win, as it was a little more supple.
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The main issue I’ve had with Gorilla Tape is that the adhesive likes to ooze out the side, resulting in the tape sticking to the bead of the tire. This can make tires hard to remove and increases the chances of the tape getting pulled off with the tire.
That said, Gorilla Tape is very sticky. I haven’t found anything better when taping a rim where the rim bed is dented. Other tubeless tape I’ve tried won’t stick into the dents very well.
But on a clean, non-dented rim, I prefer proper tubeless tape like Stans. It sticks better if you heat it up with a hair dryer.
X2 on this whole post but surprisingly, the best stuff I've used is the Slime tape. It has great stretch and is slightly thicker/stronger than most.Quote:
Originally Posted by smmokan
This has been somewhat covered, but the search function and I are not getting along very well today.
Looking to go from 200mm centerline sram 6 bolt rotors front and rear to 220 mm front and rear for ytdecoy with rsc code brakes. Would prefer a thicker rotor for earlier pad contact.
Recommendations please?
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Not very many manufacturers make a 230.. do you mean a 220?
Sram centerline rotors in 220 are actually 2mm thick. All other sizes in the centerline are 1.85mm. HS2 rotors are 2mm thick across all sizes.
I just redid my brakes and went with Galfer rotors per recommended steeze factor here. Was able to find Shark rotors (2mm) online for the same price as centerlines (very good deal).
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Fat fingers, meant 220. Thx!Quote:
Originally Posted by east or bust
Any issues with the galfers height cutting into the brake pads? Someone mentioned that in the past.
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Just got them installed so not sure on wear yet. Have them mounted with A4s and and NSB adapters, seems like they’re lined up perfect with the pads but time will tell.Quote:
Originally Posted by skinipenem
Sram HS2 rotors are treating me very well after many seasons struggling with warping, cooking, and squealing rotors. I have come to believe the rotor cutout design makes a huge difference, and generally start from the assumption that Sram has put much effort into perfecting this to beat their noisy brake reputation.
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I get absolutely roasted by my so called ‘friends’ here, but this is a comprehensive read on the subject!Quote:
Originally Posted by smmokan
https://ridemonkey.bikemag.com/threa...esidue.290095/
Bumping this post from the past.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
Is it this one, EWG? It's a bit smaller than bulk - "only" 32oz, and I assume 1 scoop = 1 ounce - but figure the product could have changed since 2021.
https://a.co/d/5OIHeR9
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Fueling science is changing quite a bit in the past few years.
Osmolality is less important than it used to be. Right now it's all about multiple transportable carbohydrates.
We've realized that glucose transport tops out at about 90g / hr. BUT, you can also shove sugar through the gut using Fructose transporters as well AND when the glucose transporters are saturated, the body is able to use the extra Fructose.
Table sugar is - conveniently - 50% glucose and 50% fructose. Somewhere between the 1:1 ratio and a 2:1 glucose: fructose seems to work well for most athletes.
All the powdered gatorades are fine - they're in the 2:1 to 1:1 range above. They have a few extra ingredients that aren't really needed and the sodium contents may or may not be right for individual athletes (but this is the case with all products).
Last weekend I did 5 hours using nothing by table sugar (3 cups) and sodium citrate (3 tsp.) dissolved in water (3L). This was great for 120g / 480 Calories per hour.
My man! I'm on team table sugar as well. I tried mixing maltodextrin and fructose and then figured out that a 25# bag of Dixie Crystals is only $23.Quote:
Originally Posted by XtrPickels
My recipe is 600g sugar, 1 packet of Kool Aid, 10g salt-- 80g of that per big bottle. I take little ziplocks pre-portioned for refills at water taps along the way. It dissolves nearly instantly in cold water--don't believe otherwise.
It baffles me that people still buy what is basically the same thing for multiple dollars per serving. Stop doing that, people!
You guys are just like Walter White…. Mixing shit in the lab, love it!
Maybe we need a make your own fucking hydration thread similar to the bindings….
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It would be more useful than the crock pot chain wax thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
Hmmmmm it’s spring so perhaps it’s time for some more chain queso talkQuote:
Originally Posted by Eluder
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I have the crockpot cooking today!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
BlasphemyQuote:
Originally Posted by Eluder
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Price police question, what would you think current (saturated) market would sell a 2019 S-works Stumpjumper 29 size L at $3500?
Carbon Roval wheels, sworks bar, Eagle Carbon crankset, X01 drivetrain including pretty new x01 cassette, Guide RSC 4-pot, 150mm Spec dropper, Ti railed Wtb rocket V, pretty well used Lyrik.
Also have and would throw in for full $$
Fox Factory FIt4 34 130mm + OEM link and Fox Factory DPS. This setup converts to 130/120 ST config.
Parting out work better separately for forks, wheels etc? Not desperate to sell, but would be good to have something to show my wife for trying. Could hang onto few parts for a future kid bike build.
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Curious if you'd entertain a frame saleQuote:
Originally Posted by VTskibum
Something I’d consider. Shipping would likely be a good bit. I’m in PA.
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Your dentist must love you.Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan