Can one do that without hooking up a bleed cup?Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
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Can one do that without hooking up a bleed cup?Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Yeah. This is a no tools required, on the side of the trail kind of thing that will *maybe* reset your pistons enough to get rid of some annoying rub. Just make sure your rotor isn't hot before you go grabbing it. And make sure to wipe your hands on your shorts before you do it so you don't get your rotors all oily.Quote:
Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
I never bleed with pads in the brake, I use the block that comes with the bleed kit. First of all you might get fluid on the pads and second you have messed with the amount of fluid in the system so you have to rebleed when you are just changing pads
That seems in my wheelhouse, I'll give it a try. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro using Tapatalk
You'd think after touching a hot rotor once (by accident and for a different reason), I'd have learned my lesson. But I'm an idiot who did it again years later. Still kinda have a scar from that.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I'm a klutz and I've never gotten oil anywhere near the pads or rotors. Especially the rear, lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
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Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn
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I've never been in a car accident but I still wear my seatbelt...</p>
Google unwanted pregnacies shit happens
the bleed how-to's will usually tell you to take the pads out which is quick n easy cuz if you do get fluid on the pads they are very likely FUBARED
also if you do slop any DOT on the brake or the frame spray it down quick with alcohol & wipe cuz it eats pain
I use the block cuz Back in the day I bled brakes with half worn pads which put too much fluid in the system so I had to bleed them again/ let fluid out when I wanted to put in new pads
Just depends on the brake. Some brakes (i.e. sram) are easy to bleed cleanly. Others not so much.
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
Buying new XC Race Tires. In fairly good shape and trying to be fast for a 100KM and 100 miles in the next month or two. Goal is 12-13MPH average speed. I have used Specialized for years because I bought a bunch cheap. Planning on branching out and I am curious about the Continental Dubnital.
They have two compounds (Rapid / Grip) and two casings (Race / Trail). They are sold out everywhere in the Race/Rapid pairing. Does anyone have a very loose sense of how much more rolling resistance the Grip casing has? I am wondering about doing Race casing with the Grip compound for front and rear. Other option would be to mix and match. Race Grip front. Rapid Trail rear.
Any other tires I should look at? Bicycle Rolling Restitance has convinced me to not try the Maxxis XC tires. Hoping sub 1400 grams for a pair.
After years of lovingly running RaceKings, I'll get my first ride on the Schwalbe Rick tonight.
Hard saying how the Dubnitals are, but Conti has been going in the wrong direction with their new tires, so I do not have faith that they're better than the Race King.
For our riding, pure rolling resistance > grip in 99% of situations.
Got it. I had always skipped the Race King based on a bias against the 2.2 width - which may not have been valid.
Report back once you get some time on the Ricks if you are willing. Are you planning on running that front and rear or pairing with a Ray?
I found some of the Rapid Compound Race Casing in stock and just decided to jump on them. I will post feedback once I have it. Most of my time is a specialized Renegade and Fast Trak Combo. I have been running a combo of a Rekon and Forekaster while training to try to stay upright as I ride at Lunch Loops a few days per week.
Quote:
Originally Posted by XtrPickels
I just fought like hell to get my XT 4 pistons reset so my new pads would fit. I opened them up to clean and then used my largest flat head and tweaked the hell out of them back into og position. Bled the line too which was needed. Definitely more of a pia than anticipated.
Alright. I just got a new Shimano XT brake lever and upon install with a reused barb and olive I'm unable to push oil through the system after loosening the fitting on the caliper. If I take the bleed syringe off the caliper all the oil in the caliper comes out. My assumption is the issue is at the lever to hose interface. My understanding is that reusing barb and olives are a no go, but shouldn't my issue there be that my attachment leaks not that no oil can move through the system?
Halp!?!
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Dubnital has been testing as well as the Race king with the independent testers. I want to try some and was also thinking about the grip/race front and trail/rapid rear combo.</p>
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I have the Ricks right now and they feel good. Fast, pretty good cornering grip. They give you that "actually grabbing and turning feel" when you lean them over. Doing a 6hr mtb race on them tomorrow and my other options were thunder burts and mezcals. Downside, doesn't actually measure 2.4" as advertised. Weight is 760 or maybe a bit more so not going to be sub 1400g/set.</p>
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The other tire I might try soon is the vittoria peyote. Those are actually 2.4, test fast, and I've always liked mezcals. Racing ray/ralph also works good. Just kind of have to pick that balance of speed vs grip. Thunder burts are the fastest but worst to actually ride trails on. I imagine peyotes are a touch better. Mezcal and ray/ralph give the most grip. Ricks kind of right in between.</p>
Makes sense. I appreciate the detail. The 760 gram weight on the Rick does not bother me so that may be my next stop depending on how the Dubnital feels. Silly how expensive trying tires is but it is one of the most important pieces for efficient endurance riding.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal
Seems odd, but I guess the barb is blocking. Not much else in the way... assuming you have the bleed hole on the lever open with cup in place [emoji16].Quote:
Originally Posted by John_B
Sounds like the old double olive. A replacment lever unit almost always comes with the olive already inside the lever body. Sounds like you put a pre-compressed olive/barb on a hose on top of another olive inside the lever body.Your on-hose olive is sealed enough to stop fluid leaking out, but you second olive is soft enough that is smushed in a way prevening fluid to pass by it and into the hose. Remove your hose, dig out your second olive and start over.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_B
2 Days on the Schwalbe Rick and it's what I expect in an XC tire. Rolling seems good. Always hard to be objective, so I'll assume they're fast based on BRR.
Grip is better than Race King, Renegade, Thunder Burt (Obvi), but not so much better that they're notably slower. Leaning them over and they do surprisingly well. Rear locks up fairly easy on loose over hard, but in a controlled manner. Haven't climbed anything steep, but figure they'll be as good if not better than their peers.
They measure ~2.3" on 25mm internal i9 wheels.
Seems like a good all around fast-xc tire front and rear for dry and / or grippy conditions. If I wanted more speed on non-tech I'd pair it with a Burt in the rear.
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The width bugs me a bit. Mine on a 29mm rim are only like 2.25, 2.3 if i measure across the tread blocks. Schwalbe says they measure at the widest part of the tread on a 30mm rim and I'm still not getting there. And the current testing on rougher ground is making it more and more clear that bigger tires are faster. Might try peyotes next as vittoria 2.4s actually measure 2.4. Still like how they ride though. Went back to thunder burts on my hardtail last week after swapping the ricks onto the hei hei, and it's actually a really big difference in cornering grip between the two. The ricks, like, turn when you lean them, burts not quite so much, and basically no difference in speed. I think thunder burts are probably only worth it as a gravel tire now (and I do have a mtb hill climb coming up they'll be great for).</p>
I wish it was that good of an explanation. The real issue was I was working on replacing my rear lever but for some dumbass reason started trying to bleed my front caliper. Turns out it's hard to push fluid through a closed system.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
I think I need to drink more beer when I work on my bike because this sober wrenching is causing me problems.
Ive switched from a 2.2 Race King to a Rick XC on my monster gravel bike with 80mm fork. The Rick is a touch heavier and a touch slower per BRR than the Race King, but a much more capable tire. Im happy with them and would take that trade off any day. The grip on the Rick side knobs is much better than the Race King
Ha! Right there with you.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_B
I ended up cracking the piston trying to push it back in...and my fn brake pads were wrong? Wtf...the number was the same. Idk. I took it to the pros. They also told me GX chains suck. GX in general is decent, but don't buy the chain.
I had bike shop job lined up years ago but couldn't find a place to live, so moved on. I regret not having ever worked in one.
This is hilarious. Well done. We've all been there.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_B
"" Burned in rotors and pads as per manufacturer recommendations. I’m on my 3rd set of different pads I’ve tried to quiet them. ""
Probably wont help buddy but I got new set of SRAM DB8's on my Vala similar to Guides in power and feel so the front is noisy on and off even after sanding the pads while the rear is quiet
SO I tried swapping the pads fronts for rears which is easy/ free AND now they are both quiet so thats something for folks out there in TV land to try
Naa, pretty sure it is just him https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...wink_smile.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I had a bunch of shit including two bikes packed into the back of my car last weekend to go to/from a race, on the way back the front lever got bumped with the wheel off so i had to push the pistons back in. Not a big deal, but, noticed a little chip of something fall to the ground when i was doing it (with a plastic tire lever). Part of the piston. So that turned into a caliper overhaul yesterday. Turns out they were all a bit mangled after 5 years and 7k or so miles. Now I get to find out if i got all the air out of the system at tonight's race.
https://i.imgur.com/9JrHDvdh.jpeg
you know that you ^^ can either get the actual plastic spacers to put in your brakes OR just rip up some pieces of cardboard right ?
Shop bro told me " we transport bike just like the Santa cruz rep ... moving blankets "
Is that a Shimano?Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal
I've never pulled a caliper apart, but I need to...kinda. I ordered a new caliper, but I'd like to have a spare and just learn how to do it just because.
My shop told me Shimano kinda sucks on multiple levels. Don't sell small parts like they used to and shit can be found online cheaper than they can buy it. Said Sram isn't that way.
I dropped beers for them as I took my bike away.
I seem to remember popping out a Hayes piston back in the day Im pretty sure If you donot put somethin between the pistons on any hydro the pistons are gona pop out but i am smarter now
It's a sram guide. you can't rebuild/service shimano calipers as far as i know.
I probably should rebuild the rear too and then bleed the brakes on my other bikes while i have a bottle of freshly opened fluid. I overhauled the levers last year so these old srams are still working just fine.
Careful buddy. I'm pretty sure I told my wife ”that was pretty dumb, but there was this one guy on TGR that forgot to take the air out of a fork before...." [emoji16]Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
But I'm glad everyone can get a laugh. It was sure a stupid moment.
How much money is worth putting into this bike? Sure, would it make the most sense to use my pro-form and buy the bike I actually want? Yes. BUT, a friend basically was like here take this and get it ridable if you want. Fucker is light. Needs brakes. Suspension seems to be OK.....(has an RS1 on the front!). Geo doesn't feel that weird honestly. Lockouts seemed dumb at first but actually pretty dope for doing long suffer rides of 20 miles of pavement/gravel to 20 miles of singletrack from the house. 2x drivetrain actually shifts very smoothly still. Has newer nox carbon wheelset. DT 240 hubs. Turbine dropper might be on it's last legs and isn't the kind with an air chuck.....some kind of sealed version. It's sticky even with fresh lube. Going to try a different remote anyway.
That all being said, dumping $750+ on brakes, different bar/stem, new dropper remote, etc etc stupid on a 10 year old bike?
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...9-xtr/p/16575/
^I still ride my '16 Hightower and it's still fun. An xc bike for even 1k would be worth it imo. It's not your primary ride...so.
With that said, I hadn't had an xc'ish bike in a long time and my Blur TR is a blast. I don't ride it as often as my Bronson, but last weekend I did 30m with almost 4k which would have kicked my ass on the Bronson. That said, the TR's ht angle helps me take it down the rowdier lines here, so terrain dependent on the trek possibly.
Burn!Quote:
Originally Posted by John_B
Really just depends on how much you're gonna ride it. Will this be a bike that sees real miles and is in the regular rotation?Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Sent from my SM-S931U1 using Tapatalk
If suspension is ok I'd say go for it. You can do brakes and dropper for a lot less than $750. Just throw some deores on there. And a used or cheap dropper. Doesn't have to be perfect. I'm sure folks here could get some parts for you for cheap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
This will see lots of miles. My daily is a Raaw Madonna with inserts. Fucking insanely awesome bike that is NOT meant for 20+ mile rides.
Dumbest thing I ever did was sell my SB120. That was the perfect everyday bike.
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the new xtr cranks are msrp at 310.00 the old ones are on sale! at like 450 ish. wtf. the only reason i got excited about this new group set was for the mech xtr discounts.</p>
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does the 92xx still use the same preload system for cranks as 9100 (vs traditional shimano style on 8100 and down)</p>
Anyone dealt with a saggy Bikeyoke dropper?