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Knocking does seem to come from the damper side. I guess I'll take the cap off and have a peak.
AFAIK the button on the seat post (the little one) one click locks, one click unlocks. So if your pod runs out of batteries you click the little button on the post and put the seat where you want, then click again to close the valve.
^I'll check that out. I've been lazy with learning about the axs shit. It does work well, but I'm still semi anti-batteries on a bike. And my 95% of the time primary bike is cable driven.
My head wasn't really in bike mode and forgot to take the stupid battery off my derailleur for the nine hour drive to Sedona so arrived with the low battery warning. Also forgot the damn charger d'oh! No sweat, that one got me through the first day and had a backup in my pack. That one had sat all winter (inside) and went low by day three and then actually died on the ride leaving me single speed. Was able to borrow a charger for a few hours and charge up a battery and managed to remember to take it off for long drives and finish the trip on that one without a backup. Just ordered another charger to keep in the Van and a couple more batteries. Fuck me.
Hah hah! One day you'll only be able to buy ebikes and it will all run off the main battery, so there's that I guess.
Honest question, what is the advantage of battery shifter or seat post? Just not having cables? Seems like a huge hassle, but I don't like electronics.
I'm not a huge fan of electronics/batteries on bikes. But I wanted a new xc'ish bike and it was 35% off, so I ended up with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 406
The good imo -
Shifting is clean and fast. Multiple shifts can be made with one push. Fine tuning every cog on a cassette can be done with the app. Dropper is very precise and quick when compared to a cable. Feels easier to fine tune a height.
The bad -
Why do we "need" a battery on a bike! Forgetting to charge it. Just another fn battery in your life. Costs $$$ to replace any of it.
It's not going away, so trying to embrace it.
OK , fuck it. I’m a big fan.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
I was a relatively early adapter for SRAM Wi Fli (or whatever it’s called ), on my road bike and I’ve had no problems. Not even no problems, I had assorted issues with my Dura Ace and Ultegra over the years. It’s way easier than dealing with cables. It’s cleaner, easier to take care of, if the batteries go empty… so what? Pedal harder. You can still get home, and I don’t even care. I never even worry about charging them, cause I don’t care! If I worried about it (like I had a race coming up), I charge them and it works. It’s great.
E-shifting just flat out works way better than the best cable systems, no question. The only real downsides are cost (though less so for road since you're far less likely to destroy a derailleur in a crash) and the battery issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by 406
Shimano di2 battery life on my road bike is really impressive, never mind how easily it shifts even under full load. Cables are done.
Way back in the day coach the neighbor told me they used an e der in a race and the battery had gone dead, I imagine they only let that happen once. I got a box of jagwire which never seems to run out so I'm probaly just gona use cables
I've had a couple electronic shifting systems. I've hated all of them. I'm back on cables on all bikes.
- I don't like charging batteries.
- they're heavier.
- they're more expensive.
- I've tried all the commonly available shifters and I don't like the ergonomics of any of them.
- with transmission, it shifts slowly. (I'm curious to see if this is still the case with the cable version. I think this has more to do with the cassette ramps than the electronic derailleur).
- I am of the opinion that a bicycle should be a purely mechanical machine.
I've had various other issues with electronic systems, but those issues weren't related to the actual electronics.
The electronic stuff shifts nice (most of the time), but it's not so much better than my mechanical stuff that it outweighs the negatives.
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Are you sure it heavier? Not that I care, really, but I got rid of a lot of cable and even burnished off the cable stops. When I originally went from my Dura Ace analog to the SRAM, wifli I recall it being similar in weight.
Hayes / Manitou sale going on now. Just bought a couple Mattoc Pro forks for 40% off.
Is this place back? I can't deal with looking at MTBR much longer.
Yo, got any sub 2[emoji643]lb downcountry bikes for sale in a medium?
<p>
</p>Quote:
Originally Posted by plugboots
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GX Eagle kit is 1754 g (so maybe 1800 with cables). GX Transmission is 2100 g. </p>
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Other levels have a similar spread; transmission is 200-300 g heavier.</p>
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</p>
Ah. I looked it up. For me it was analog dura ace 1973 vs. Red eTap 1970.
https://ccache.cc/blogs/newsroom/202...j7ig0kpfRFSglH
I’m sure the list ain’t perfect, and mine wasn’t from 2022, but I prolly went even lighter since the Dura Ace was older, and the no cable thing.
I'm not in love with the Code brakes that came on a bike I just bought (SC Hightower). They are 2 piston calipers. Do I go up to 200mm rotors first to see if that gets me the power I want, or replace them with 4 piston first...
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Uhhhhh, you sure they're codes? That was sram's biggest 4-piston caliper before the mavens.</p>
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</p>
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re electric shifting, i like mine quite a bit but it's not a big difference riding the mechanical bike. And on my gravel bike the shifter intermittantly doesn't work which is really annoying. but that seems to be a sign the battery is getting low.</p>
<p>
The axs/transmission derailleurs+batteries are much heavier than a mechanical derailleur but when you add cable and housing and a mechanical shifter it's a similar total. For me swapping to axs saved a few grams when considering the shifter, rd, cable, housing. But an x01 axs rd+battery is 400g while a gx mechanical rd is 294. And I think transmission stuff is heavier. I believe that when shimano was making both di2 and mechanical versions of dura ace the complete electric groupset was lighter.</p>
Im with you. That forum has gone full retard. Not that it hadnt before.Quote:
Originally Posted by smmokan
This is second hand but I was told that AXS uses a magnet on the cassette to time the shift and that's why it lags. It will only shift at that point so your shifting speed depends on the cassette position when you hit the button.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Like I said, not sure if that's true but it makes sense.
There's no magnet or sensor for Transmission, it's just the ramp profiles. I haven't looked at it side by side with an older Eagle cassette but they definitely made it harder to shift when not on the ramps, and possibly reduced the number of ramp locations per cog.
This. It's just the ramps. It seems like it'll only do one shift per revolution.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
For one gear at a time, I don't find it to be a problem. It's when I'm trying to grab 2-3 gears at a time that it's noticeably slow.
An example: semi often, I'll know that I need a couple hard pedal strokes out of a corner for a jump or whatever. I'm inevitably in the wrong gear (too easy). So I'll click off 2 or 3 shifts (without pedaling) while on the brakes coming into the corner and then do 1 light rotation of the cranks coming out of the corner. On every other drivetrain, that's enough to get the whole 3 cog shift done, and then I can pedal hard. With transmission, it takes 2-3 full rotations to get the shift done. There are other situations where it's noticeably slow too; that's just one example.
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I have one mountain bike left with 11 speed - - 1x11, which had a Sunrace 11-46 cassette. Some of the larger cogs loosened on the spider (rivets came loose), so I bought a Shimano SLX 11-46 to replace it. Too bad on the Sunrace - - I like the gear spacing more than on the Shimano, and it uses two spiders for most of the cogs (SLX only one spider for largest 3 cogs, rest are loose cogs). The rivets loosened without really that many miles on the cassette.
When I installed the SLX cassette I noticed a little play after tightening down the mounting bolt / lock ring thing. Took it on and off the bike, tried adding a tiny spacer behind the cassette (but then the smallest cog would not mount). Gave up, reinstalled wheel on the bike - - and there's no play noticeable with the wheel installed and through axle tightened down.
Normal? I just haven't noticed this previously... Wheel spins normally, freehub functions normally. No bearing play, grittiness, or any other issues I could find.
I sometimes have issues getting a cassette seated correctly with no play. I think with dirt or small damage on the freehub the cassette gets a bit hung up sometimes. Usually take it off and try again and it sits properly. That's with Sunrace and Shimano, also 11sp.
I installed and removed the new SLX cassette several times, thinking I had put a spacer in wrong or something. The freehub spline have some marks, but everything seemed to seat well.
Seems weird that it snugged down and felt normal after I put the wheel on the bike, and tightened down the through axle
Interesting, that's definitely shitty.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Thank god this is back…..anyone have any experience with the Yakima stage two rack?? Looking for a solid tray rack and I like the durability and feel of it, feels more solid than the Thule ( and I can even get that at discount) but the Yakima is harder to find.
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Also, it seems like about $399 is about as cheap as you can get a new tray style rack. Correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
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Yah the tray racks are pricey. I sold my Yakima hangover as I wanted / needed something that could transport bikes without suspension and kid bikes
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Anyone in the SLC area able to help a Mag with the wife's bike? Carbon MTB frame, I've been through 4 BBs in 18mos. I'm guessing the BB cups in the frame are a smidge too small, so need the BB area reamed (Park Tools makes one). I can pull the crank and BB, just need the tool thru thru it to rule that problem out.Mucho appreciated.
Press fit BB, I assume (since you want to ream it out)? If so, have you tried a thread-together type BB, like from Wheels Mfg or Praxis? Those work well for correcting alignment issues in the BB shell.Quote:
Originally Posted by SJG
Or do you mean chasing the threads in a threaded BB shell? (cleaning up the threads)
I have used the threaded press-fit shells, same problem. It's just too tight and crushes the race. A reamer opens the frame to the proper size so the press fit is not too tight. It's a 2023 Norco Sight FWIW.
What are everyone's go-to rims that are not top end $$$ for old man bike park and also climbing a bit - maybe 2000' for some rides? Don't need super heavy smashers...I weigh about 190 with gear, so something that's decent for weight/performance but not the best of the best. I don't have a budget in mind because I've never bought wheels/rims before. So making up a number with no context seems pointless? Point me in the right direction and I'll figure out the rest, thank you!
If you're going aluminum, go with DT Swiss, and get the most expensive ones. For bike park, go with the FR 541's. They're ~$50 more / rim than the cheap options, but they'll hold up better. If it were me, I'd lace them to DT 350's. 32 straight gauge spokes if you want to save money and you want a burlier, stiffer wheel. Double butted if you want to save a little weight and have a little more flex in the wheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
If you're going carbon, We Are One's are a good bet. That wheelset will be ~$900 more than the aluminum option though. Lighter, stiffer, generally more durable (but when they fail, they fail).
Thanks, that's super helpful. And a good frame of reference. Although it says on We are One's website that they are for rider's who "refuse to hold back". I hold back all the time tho! I was also recommended Reserve carbon wheels which are in the same price range as We Are One but I've never heard of the brand Reserve.
Reserve is essentially a Santa Cruz house brand. They're good. The Roval HD options are good too (that's the specialized house brand).Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
There's all kinds of other carbon rims of varying levels of generic-ness. Quality is a bit of a crapshoot. Shopping based on their warranty / crash replacement policy is a good bet.
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At least on a new SC bike shop bro told me the reserve are Life time Guaranty ?
That's correct. Also true for a bunch of the other reputable brands (including the we are one's). Reserve was an early adopter on that policy and kinda forced the rest of the higher end market to follow suit.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
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My we are ones have been going strong for 4 years under a not smooth 200lb rider. Someday I’m going to justify another set for my hardtail.