If you're a size medium, I'm going to be selling a V1 Forbidden Dreadnought next month (GX/X01 build with new RF wheels and a new Zeb)... much less than your budget too. :)
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If you're a size medium, I'm going to be selling a V1 Forbidden Dreadnought next month (GX/X01 build with new RF wheels and a new Zeb)... much less than your budget too. :)
What're the current bikes in the stable?Quote:
Originally Posted by North
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YT Capra core 3 is right at 4k on sale now. I enjoy my MX Capra
Current bike? I was afraid you'd ask that. I have a 2021 Norco Sight. It can do all of the things. I live across the street from the bike park, want to ride it more, and am not sure I want to put that thrashing on my pedal bike. I've always liked the Sight but I've never loved it. If I got something like a Spire I could see replacing the Sight with something a little less heavy duty down the line, but would a;sp be totally ok having 2 bikes within 10-20mm of travel of each other in the meantime.
Thanks smmokan. I'm on an XL for the Norco, typically L or XL.
The world is your oyster. So many good long travel analog bikes out there, new and used.
If you’re getting a second bike, spend less time on the minutiae. Just make sure it’s got burly wheel/tire set and good brakes. Budget for pads/rotors and suspension service.
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Asked this in a padded room thread but it seems like I should ask in here too. Just moved in with the GF and she has a Peloton bike, so now have access to the bike and app. What should I start on? Any tips? My goals aren't specific, just want to get more fit.
My chain is loud. I haven't ever had this issue before, and I don't know how to fix it. I cleaned it, bought different lubes, checked the stretch, small differences have been noted but nothing has fixed the issue.
I'll be the first to admit I'm bad at maintenance, but I have lubed this chain more than any of the others (almost every ride even!) and of course it's the one with issues. Its one of those new AXS drive trains on a high pivot bike, Sram chain has a flat top, is black. Still shifts smooth, but I considered that the shop guy used the wrong tool to measure the chain stretch?
The power zone rides are really good IME. I tend to do a mix of the endurance rides with the max rides.Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno
High pivot bikes are generally noisier. Is the noise squeaking? Clicking? General chain rumbling?Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukonrider
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Unless it's super wet where you ride, lubing every ride sounds excessive. That's probably attracting more grit and making your drivetrain noisy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukonrider
I would clean the chain thoroughly, lube it again, and wipe off excess lube.
Regarding chain wear, tools like Pedro's Chain Checker Plus II are going to be most accurate because they isolate pin and roller wear. Handy to have one so you can check it yourself.
A general chain grumbling, worse under power.
Might need to replace your idler pulley; those definitely wear out, sometimes quickly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukonrider
Worn chainring could also be a culprit.
Could be dirt and grit in the chain. Pop the chain off and soak it in mineral spirits or kerosene. Dry, then relube.
Unless you're using a heavier wet lube, I'd definitely be lubing that thing every ride. Particularly for the high pivot, I'll sometimes lube twice a ride if it's a longer ride.
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Originally Posted by Danno
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I don't have Peloton, but if I remember correctly from some of my athletes the "Matt Wilpers - Endurance Rides" are some of the better ones for general Zone 2 riding. </p>
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In addition to those, once or twice a week pick something that looks really f'ing hard. </p>
Was gonna suggest worn chainring if it's grinding, especially more under power.
For real? This is crazy to me but I've never owned a high pivot. I've only had to lube mid ride once or twice in my life and it was due to mud. Generally get 50ish trail miles on a lube at least.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
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I'm really starting to hate this website</p>
I will say the high pivot def gets loud much faster than any of my non high pivot bikes, hence my switch to lubing before every ride (unless I forget). The drivetrain has about 700 miles on it, so I would guess chain ring isn't worn enough, but who knows. Going to do a shop clean of the chain and get a checker
Depends on the lube, of course. I usually go with something pretty light (normally dumond light) which doesn't last particularly long. But I'd say the high pivot gets dry almost twice as fast as regular bikes. It starts to feel like it wants lube after 2500 - 3000 vert of climbing. Some of that is probably that a slightly dry chain is much more noticeable with the idler. Starts to feel pretty draggy.Quote:
Originally Posted by beaterdit
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Chainring def shouldn't be worn out and neither should your chain. Might be the pulley? Def get the Park CC 4.2 chain checker. Dont' get the old one with the pins, it's innacurate and the pins can bend making it more innacurate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukonrider
I can see that it wold be much more noticable. I wouldnt like the extra maintanance but I guess the ride is worth it? Don't even wanna try lest I be tempted to buy hahaha. I guess I run a medium lube, SCC Slick, like it a lot.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Personally, I wouldn't bother with a high pivot for any bike that's not mostly downhill oriented. Meaning a dh bike, or an enduro bike that sees a lot of shuttle and lift use. They eat chunder impressively well, but the extra weight, complexity, drag, and maintenance doesn't really pencil out on any bike that's not a proper sled, at least for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by beaterdit
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Gotcha, good to know. I don't need any more maintenance in my life but have been curious.I watch Dale Stone's videos sometimes, he's totally sold and believes it's better than more travel. Like he runs a shorter travel bike now, and is faster on it?IDK, really happy with my current bike and don't really feel the need to change anything.
My son just got a new to him Evil Offering with a We Are One wheelset that needs a little TLC in sports. Two spokes on the rear wheel are loose, I assume I need to pull the tire and tape to get at the nipples? Would I be worth using some lock-tite on the offending spokes while I'm in there? I've never messed around with the WAO stuff before. I usually don't like thread lock on my spokes, but these super stiff rims look like they might be able to use it + the spokes have a flat spot to stop them from winding up if you
No, definitely no loctite on nipples. As long as the spokes are intact/not broken/not bent, you can leave the tire and tape on. If it was my wheel, I'd start by checking tension on several other spokes, bringing the loose ones up to that tension, then putting it in the truing stand to true it. If the spoke have a flat spot, it sounds like they're bladed so you'll need a bladed spoke holder in addition to the usual nipple key.
Whelp, I pulled the wheel off and looked at it and it's using a i9 straight pull hub, and the loose spokes are broken at the head, so I have to track those down. Always something new.
At least they use a normal spoke wrench.....
I-nine is great to work with, they should have replacement spokes on their site, or just call em up.
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And DEFINITELY no locktite on I9 system wheels.
They are aluminum spokes and you need to use boiled linseed oil on the threads.
I used to petro lube before every ride but with squirt I lube AFTER every 3 rides
I have known the kid who drilled all the spoke holes in the we-are-one wheels for a long time the way his dad tells me it built character in a teen to find something less monotonous
As your main bike, rocky mountains, some short overnights and some rides of a little more distance, a race or 2, so basically all around bike would you pick a SB130 ( don't think i can swing the new SB140) or a Hightower?
I haven’t ridden the SB130 but the HT is not light nor does it feel super efficient. What it is, is very comfortable and versatile with lots of traction. Between the two I would probably pick the SB130 based purely on the range of rides you listed, but if I had dentist money I’d be giving that new Pivot Trailcat series a serious hard look.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
Switch infinity goes up and down really well ime but having said that I like VPP of the santa cruz more so IME IMO you should demo
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Well, digging into the i9 wheel issue some more, the previous owner replaced the OG rim tape with gorilla tape at some point, and should have done another layer or two.. anyways the sealant got into the rim and corroded all the spoke heads into to nothing-ness. Ugh, if it had been regular spokes it would have been $24 worth on new nipples and an hour or two of time. These fuckers are $7 a piece.</p>
My neighbor rides a Tallboy with a 50 cassette. He smoked a tooth and needs a new one. I have a new 50 I can give him, but he avoids some of the long and punchy climbs we have. So I'm thinking a 52 would be a better replacement. Or maybe the 50 with a 30 up front? I'm assuming he's a 32 now.
I just recall dropping my chainring way back on an old bike and it changed the feel of all the gears (obviously!) but I did get used to it.
Aside from top speed which we don't use on dirt, is there a reason to to go with a smaller chainring?
@jackstraw I'm assuming you're talking Eagle. The 52->whatever jump is pretty clunky, I avoided running that cassette when possible, but it does make things a bit easier. The downside to running smaller chainrings (besides top speed) is less wrap/engagement. I found them to be a bit noisier and wear down faster. I have one buddy with a metal knee (courtesy USMC) who prefers to run really low torque setups, like 30x52 with a 27.5 rear wheel and he seems to wear out rings and have more dropped chains than anyone else I know. That said, I feel like 30x50 is reasonable for a 29er rear for someone who isn't super strong and has punchy climbs to contend with.
Yeah, I am talking Eagle.
So my Blur has the 50 and Bronson 52. I noticed a pretty big difference between the two even with a massive weight reduction with the Blur. It's just easier after a long sustained climb to clean the punchy sections. I do climb up stuff that a lot of people around here avoid. I find ups a preferred challenge these days. The downs are super fun, but I'm not always going 110%...as I like living.
I don't have any issues with the 52. It is a long jump up, but my X01 derailleur and shifter handle it with ease.
More gound clearance, for all those rocks you don't have. lol. But you will, once you start heading up to the Sierras to ride.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
Ha! Oh, I've got bash guards...but nobody else around here does! [emoji23]Quote:
Originally Posted by evdog
I run 30x50 on all my mountain bikes. I don't like the big jump to th 52. 30x50 is the same for climbing but you can stay in 2nd longer and then have a smoother transition. I'd rather have more usable options at the big side of the cassette than a faster top speed.
I like that planQuote:
Originally Posted by beaterdit
As a counter opinion, I run a 32 x 52 on everything (29" wheel). Most of my "normal" climbs are 3rd or 4th gear fire roads. But when I need a bail out gear, the 52 is nice. I don't mind the big jump between 1st and 2nd because I'm rarely waffling between those two gears. I'm either spinning along in 2, 3, or 4, or I'm grinding at a snail's pace in 1. And I like the taller overall gearing mostly because it means I'm in a bigger cog on the descents, which keeps the chain a little tighter and it bounces around less. And having a bit higher top speed is nice too.
But there are certainly times when I'm at the end of my rope on some stupid climb and I start talking about how I should put a fucking 30 on this thing.
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Yeah, I still have not cleaned a two mile single track ascent here. There are two cruxes which I've cleaned individually, but not both on one climb. And it's my heart rate just maxing out, not that the punchy sections are that difficult. Although my friend who's been here since college said he's never seen anyone clean the section I did, so I got that going for me [emoji23]...but every one of my EC friends would clean it! So I guess it's slightly techy because of all the roots. If I put a 52 on the Blur or a 30 on the Bronson I'd probably clean the whole thing by now, but hopefully I'll get in better shape a pull it off soon.
So thinking about this a bit more, 30x50 is a bit lower than 32x52 because two teeth is a larger percent change off a 32 than it is on a 50.
Most of our service rd. climbing around here is ski areas and it granny gear or 2nd at best. A lot of the singletrack climbing I do I’m hoping to maintain 3rd gear. I aspire to do most of the steep climbing in 2nd gear and just use 1st as a bailout, the 30t helps toward that end. However in my old age and struggling fitness, I use the 50 more and more haha.