If you're on EXO and not getting flats your rocks MUST be smoother. I'd destroy EXO in one ride.
:D
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Yes, I have inflated a couple Tubolitos. No, I wouldn't feel good about running 27.5 on 29. I don't think they'll stretch that much comfortably, and if you're anything like me, the only reason you're putting in a tube is because you're far from the car and can't get darts or bacon to seal the flat. In those situations, I don't think it's worth the risk trying to stretch it. That said, I'd run 29 in 27.5 without hesitation. It's not hard to get them to shorten via the foreskin method.
Well, that solves the problem, then. And yes, the Tubolito is the last resort, I carry bacon, darts, a boot, gorilla tape, and a spare valve to try first. And if you want to ‘borrow’ a Tubolito from me on the trail, I’ll need you to Venmo me first! :FIREdevil
Anybody want a 27.5 Tubolito for cheap? (27.5 x 1.8-2.5)
I no longer have any 27.5 bikes in my household and I think I still have 4 new in packages.
They retail for $35, I could USPS them for $23.00.
PM me for details.
2 of 5 spoken for:
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All this talk makes it fitting that I had my first flat in years this week.
Last one I can remember was in Moab in 2020 and that wasn’t even a puncture… dinged my rim riding my hardtail on the whole enchilada (a double drop in the porcupine rim area I think) and it wouldn’t hold air at the bead. Threw a tube in for the rest of the trip and then bent the rim back when I got home.
This time it was a rock puncture in a lightly used gravel tire (100mi total?) riding on some singletrack . Small bacon held for a bit and then started leaking. Going to try repairing it by gluing on a radial tire patch like some have suggested on here.
There are plenty of areas where heavier tires aren't necessary just because it's not that rocky. But those are also areas where 150mm + travel bikes aren't necessary. If a long travel bike is warranted, so are heavy tires.
Added bonus is that heavy tires can run way lower pressure without the sidewalls folding in corners.
So sharpness of chunk plays no role? I can see using long travel for bigger, smoother features and not needing heavy tires. Also if you tend toward higher pressures, which smoother surfaces make a bit more comfortable.
Around me the sharpness of rocks varies with altitude a lot of times. If I'm not hitting high, newish trails with a lot of stuff sticking out of them I worry a lot less about sharp rock punctures. But I'm not switching to a hard tail.
Yeah, my local trails don't need DD for puncture protection, but I like to run them in the summer because I can drop like 3 psi over EXO+ and not have them fold/squirm/make sad noises on every berm.
Ok, any of you have suggestions for the most durable crank arm protectors (XT, XTR 12) etc?
I have gotten two varieties from eBay before, some are soft silicone that don’t last very long, and some others that were more like hard plastic. Just curious what y’all in chunk-country run before just ordering some cheap crap.
I've only used them for carbon cranks - Race Face and SRAM covers. They seem pretty similar, hold up fine.
Why do you need protectors for metal crank arms (XT/XTR)?
So they don’t get beat to shit, and *might* have some resale value if I don’t like the length? (XTR).
The ones I have on two sets are absolutely wrecked, but the end of the arms are still pristine.
I am waiting for some 165 Sweetwings to come in stock, I won’t care about those as much.
Well, Ti is harder than aluminum, and as far as I know, most boots won’t work on the EE wings…probably should have worded that “I will be less concerned with” the EE wings hitting rocks.
Have convinced myself this is something I notice. Would like to try DH casing at a bike park some day test the far end of the spectrum.
What's definitely noticeable is 3 flats over the span of ~15 rides on the EXO+ tires that came with my new bike . Plus side is that I'm 3/3 in getting them fixed with sealant only. Switched to Orange Seal this season and the success rate is night and day.
In terms of sidewall flex, I notice a big difference going from exo+ to DD. The difference from DD to DH is still noticeable, but it's not quite as big.
To get similar sidewall squirm, I'm usually at about 23 psi in the rear with a DH casing, 24-25 psi with a DD casing, and around 30 psi with exo or exo+.
I use the All Mountain Style ones on my XT/XTR they have an arm guard that comes with that I don’t use but the end guard has been super solid.
https://www.allmountainstyle.com/pro...defender-black
I don’t think anyone should assume they need heavy tires just because some others do. I know a lot of people running EXO I’m the PNW with success - plenty of experienced riders on long travel bikes. Lots of roots, mostly rounded rocks, steeps, etc. Terrain, weight and speed all play a role.
In the road/gravel world there is lots of chatter about thin, flexible sidewall tires having less rolling resistance. I can’t confirm if that is also true for a typical mtb trail but it wouldn’t surprise me. I.e. the thicker sidewall tire is heavier but also might feel slower due to increased rolling resistance.
Those of you using a Tubilito, are you using a frame/seatpost pack? I’m using a little dakine frame bag now to carry a tube, CO2, and levers but not sure it would work with a much smaller tube.
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I blew my Cane Creek coil shock and I'm wondering what is out there to replace it. It's on a 2015 Giant Reign, which is getting outdated - it has 2 front chainrings, a 10 speed cassette, and lotsa dings and one bad dent in the aluminum frame - so I'm guessing sending the shock in to CC to be fixed is not worth my time or money. Or am I wrong? And the shock is an old model with no rear lock-out for climbing - not exactly what everyone wants. I'll probably sell the bike soon and maybe it's worth $1500 with a working shock.
Anyone have recommendations, coil or air for it that's not expensive and not horrible? Or should I get the cane creek serviced (anyone done this and what is CC like for price/time?) and buy a temp shock while i wait to get it back?