Ask the experts

[skaredshtles]

Recently switched to tubeless after holding out for years.

After a tire failed and started leaking after a crash I started wondering if I should be carrying a spare tube, which led me to ponder - "if I've adapted to tubeless because there's less chance of a flat, and knowing that if I get a tubeless flat, installing a tube, trailside is going to be a major pita - why not just run inner tubes that are set up with sealant?"

Is this some big-brain stuff? No? Why not? (I'm being serious lol.)

I always carry a tube, CO2, and a mini-pump. What I need to add is a few tubeless plugs. 'Cause you're right - trailside inserting a tube is a PITA and quite messy, IME.

That said - I get flats *so* rarely tubeless that I'm super lazy about all this.

[climberevan]

Plugs and sealant will fix most of them, but for catastrophic flats I always carry a tube. TPO ones are tiny and less than half of the weight of rubber, so unless the cost is a major factor, they eliminate any excuses.

The performance benefits of tubeless will be negated by running a sealant infused tube, so unless your only priority is avoiding thorn-induced flats, I can't see the point.

For me it's a real pump all the way. It's the same weight as 2x CO2 and can be used indefinitely. For racing, maybe I'd carry CO2.

[Dee Hubbs]

The best option is a hand pump with a CO2 nozzle built in. One chance with the CO2 bottle, and then you can top it off, or re-inflate the second attempt with the hand pump.
I have a few that I like:
OneUpComponets EDC Pump
Specialized Air Tool CO2 MTB Mini Pump (looks like they dont make it anymore?)
I also have the Specialized in a Road version for higher pressure road wheels.

[XXX-er]

when i used to get flats in spring and summer the mosquito's are crazy its not uncommon to not wait long enough for the glue to dry which means do it again which takes even longer/ get bit more

its better to put in another tube and get out there than get eaten by the bugs waiting for glue to dry

Take the tubes home thro them in a box and patch them in the shop when the box is full having a beverage use up the glue in the old patch kit, air the fixed tubes up for a couple of days to check the fix and roll them up to use again

don't forget to buy a new patch kit for on the bike

except for racing I don't really get the Co2 thing, fuck it up and now you are really stuck with no pump


I carry the new tube which never gets used, its kinda like carrying that condom in the wallet

[skaredshtles]

when i used to get flats in spring and summer the mosquito's are crazy its not uncommon to not wait long enough for the glue to dry which means do it again which takes even longer/ get bit more

its better to put in another tube and get out there than get eaten by the bugs waiting for glue to dry

Take the tubes home thro them in a box and patch them in the shop when the box is full having a beverage use up the glue in the old patch kit, air the fixed tubes up for a couple of days to check the fix and roll them up to use again

don't forget to buy a new patch kit for on the bike

except for racing I don't really get the Co2 thing


I carry the new tube which never gets used, its kinda like carrying that condom in the wallet

Glueless patches actually worked pretty well. Way back when I was patching tubes.

[XXX-er]

I would want to use a real tire patch anyway at some point, also i don't think glueless patches worked as well as a real tire patch , I gotta carry a tube anyway so I might as well use it to start

i carry a real patch kit in case the new tube doesnt work becuz i pinched it on instal or whatever gave me the flat put a hole in the new tube

at this point hopefully I remembered to put the valve stem at the tire logo so i can easily see where the thorn or nail is facked up the new tube

[skaredshtles]

I would want to use a real tire patch anyway at some point, also i don't think glueless patches worked as well as a real tire patch

They worked well enough to seal the leak in the tube, which is all I really wanted from a patch on a clapped-out old tube.

[XXX-er]

will the glue-less patch still be good after rolling around in a seat pouch for one and 1/2 years when I need them next season ?

not good enough for me but YMMV

[skaredshtles]

will the glue-less patch still be good after rolling around in a seat pouch for one and 1/2 years when I need them next season ?

My experience with them was they would last indefinitely... until you re-inflated the tube, then let the air back out (presumably when you went back to tubeless) - then the glueless patch would get weird and sometimes fail.

So they were definitely not as "permanent" a fix to a tube as a proper glue patch. But, if you don't give a fuck, glueless is/was way easier.

[XXX-er]

wow they ^^ sound almost as good as using a real tire patch kit !

must be why i almost used glueless tire patches

[singlesline]

The park ones come in a tiny plastic box which protects them from getting dirty/beaten up when they kick around for years waiting for use.

Pre tubeless I just kept that little box tucked in the folds of a rolled up tube. Idea being first flat you just swap tubes for speed. If you get a second flat, you now have 2 flat tubes so hopefully one of them is amenable to a glueless patch.
If you don't get a second flat, patch the old tube with a real patch when you get home.

Haven't used them in years though (I think there are 2 left in the box). Tubeless gives you 2+ more attempts before you would need them: 1) sealant works on its own, 2) plugs plugs plugs, 3) new tube...how many flats do you get before you finally need 4) the patch kit?

I've used duct tape to patch a road tube in a pinch. I imagine it would work even better in with low pressure MTB tubes. Also carried a scrap of a tyvek race number that could be used as a tire boot between tube and slashes/cuts--a folded dollar bill works here too.

[skaredshtles]

<snip>
Haven't used them in years though (I think there are 2 left in the box). Tubeless gives you 2+ more attempts before you would need them: 1) sealant works on its own, 2) plugs plugs plugs, 3) new tube...how many flats do you get before you finally need 4) the patch kit?

Yep. All this. And yeah - haven't used them in years. Not sure if I even *have* one of those little Park boxes in the pack any more.

[rideit]

except for racing I don't really get the Co2 thing, fuck it up and now you are really stuck with no pump

I have just started carrying co2 again in the event that I can’t seat the tubeless tire with a pump alone.

[skaredshtles]

I have just started carrying co2 again in the event that I can’t seat the tubeless tire with a pump alone.

YOU OWE ME!!

[rideit]

Oh, shit!

[Dee Hubbs]

Ask the experts
Ask: "What to do when I puncture a tube"
Expert: "Throw it out"

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Can you use one of these style anti rattle clamps on that rack with its adapter?
https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-5002...a-693753947949

These things work great.

I picked one up at Harbon Freight today. Worth a try. Only downside is that I can't pop the rack off the truck as quickly anymore.

[XXX-er]

Ask the experts
Ask: "What to do when I puncture a tube"
Expert: "Throw it out"

usualy they are fixable ime but sometmes not if its really big hole or on a seam

but take them home instead of hanging the dead tube in a tree

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Just run heavy tires. That's one way to not get flats hardly ever. Anything less than DD casing is just tempting fate IMO.

[Andeh]

Yeah, run appropriate casings and pressures. I've flatted once in like 7 years, and it was because I was running EXO+ in an area littered with sharp rocks.

I usually don't even bother carrying a pump on local trails. If I go somewhere with sharp rocks, I'll carry a pump with a CO2 (OneUp), tire plugs, a tire boot (in case the casing has a long slash - for use with tube), and a TuboLito tube (if the plugs don't work).

[rideit]

Have any of you actually inflated a Tubolito? I think I know the answer (no), but it’s worth asking. Curious if I could run a 27.5 Tubolito in a 29 in a pinch, as you can with butyl tubes. This would be a solution for carrying one tube for the Mullet bike.

[Andeh]

Yes, I have, a couple times. It still seems somewhat stretchy but haven't tried putting the 27.5 on a 29. They weigh so little and are so compact, I just carry one of each in my pack since I ride mullet.

[VTskibum]

Maybe just my area and perhaps my east coast rocks are smoother, but pedaling around DD tires to save a flat seems to be not worth the squeeze. Normally ride 4-5x per week most of the year on EXO or Spec Grid tires and I'm at 3 flats, one was 100% on me for being lazy not refilling sealant recently and low air pressure not pumping up tire before riding. The other two were both fixed by bacon strips. Carry 2-3 CO2, tube, bacon and even have tube patches in my BC Research TulBag that goes w/ me on 95% of my rides Mtn or Road.

[Boissal]

Just run heavy tires. That's one way to not get flats hardly ever. Anything less than DD casing is just tempting fate IMO.

Yeah, run appropriate casings and pressures. I've flatted once in like 7 years, and it was because I was running EXO+ in an area littered with sharp rocks.

I got on the gravity casing train this season on my Gnarvana based on some posts in this thread and the recommendation of some buddies who live up in BC. Figured I should try it and see, I didn't have any complaints about trail casing but maybe I didn't know what I was missing.

It's been an interesting experience but I think I will go back to lighter duty tires once this set it shot. The GridGravity (similar to DD) stuff is indestructible but it's turned the GG into a massive hog, the difference being almost a pound per tire. Overall weight doesn't bother me (went from 33 to 35 lbs) but the added rotational mass changed the bike completely: getting it up to speed is quite painful and it really doesn't hold momentum until I'm moving pretty good. Riding behind a buddy on a rolling trail yesterday was eye opening, he'd float away from me on any little bit of down and easily roll over the next small up while I was constantly on the pedals huffing and puffing. Yes, it's an enduro pig and rolling flowy stuff isn't the terrain for it to shine, however the penalty outside of the rowdiest terrain is hard to swallow and I pedal everywhere so I'm bound to run into sub-gnar trails quite often. When I hop back on the trail bike with regular casing (GridTrail, similar to Exo+), I'm blown away at how fast it accelerates and rolls. The GG felt the same when it was on lighter tires, much easier to get up to speed on any bit of down, more lively, and no less planted at speed.

I think the gravity casing would make sense if I flatted a lot or really needed traction/support. I've ridden the trail bike on the same trails as the GG and my segment times and barely slower. It's sketchier and bouncier but I've only flatted once in the past 3 seasons (running 22f and 26 or 27r) and I was very much asking for it. Summer in the Wasatch means that there isn't a single berm that will not explode under your tires if you try to rail it so support isn't that critical. Traction is also non existent, I don't think running 12 psi would make a lick of difference in our bottomless moon dust. If I took a trip to the PNW or spent lots of time in the park I'd probably keep the heavy casing on the GG but for the riding I do it's a lot of downsides and not much benefit. And before it comes up, I'm not ready for the EWS but I am not exactly slow either. We have plenty of pointy chunder here and I'm not particularly light, 180 lbs kitted...

[grskier]

Just run heavy tires. That's one way to not get flats hardly ever. Anything less than DD casing is just tempting fate IMO.

Your need from a tire is a bit heavier than most.