Ask the experts

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Originally Posted by toastybroski

I think it’s time for new tires. It’s mostly dry where I ride in Montana. I currently have maxxis dominion dhr ii exo in 29x2.3 which I like. My frame can go up to 2.6. Should I go that wide? What tires do you all recommend for general trail riding.

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I think there is a lot of merit in finding a combo you like and sticking with it. Reliable cornering, braking, etc etc when you get used to certain tread patterns. I would definitely run something wider than 2.3 especially in the front. I'm pretty much Asegai 2.5 up front and DHRII 2.4 in the rear all the time. I rarely run anything different. For most people Exo casings are great. Maybe try Exo+? I run DD casing most of the time and occasionally DH casings. Always Maxx Grip. Always with Cush Core. Again most people don't need that much meat on their wheels though. I think my setup is about as good as it gets for the rare early season wet and throughout the dry loose Montana summer riding.

I’m on the dual 2.6 program in UT and love it. Schwalbe magic Mary f Hans dampf rear. Not light or fast rolling but keeps me in shape and has loads of grip. I don’t think you’ll be disappointed in a 2.6 front, I run a 2.4 rock razor SS rear sometimes, and think 2.6 f 2.4 r could be a really good setup, and will be what I run on my next bike most likely.


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Hopefully last question on this build. Again code rsc’s. One of my Levers isn’t working at all. It is locked out super stiff. Won’t take a bleed either. Wasted a couple stealth thingys trying to troubleshoot. If I stick a small Allen wrench in and depress the plunger thing where the hose goes in I can actuate the lever. But nothing else seems to work.

Thoughts? Am i screwed?


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Originally Posted by Phall

I’m on the dual 2.6 program in UT and love it. Schwalbe magic Mary f Hans dampf rear. Not light or fast rolling but keeps me in shape and has loads of grip. I don’t think you’ll be disappointed in a 2.6 front, I run a 2.4 rock razor SS rear sometimes, and think 2.6 f 2.4 r could be a really good setup, and will be what I run on my next bike most likely.

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Hot take: tire preferences are like pizza toppings, but plus bikes were a dumb fad by the industry to sell new shit.

At a certain point, extra width is just counterproductive weight, inertia, and rolling resistance. Lack of traction is usually due to the tread design/compound vs conditions. In some tire designs, extra width makes them worse (I'm looking at you, DHF and clones).

15 years ago I rode 2.8 and 2.7 for 26" park riding. That was silly. I kept getting narrower and narrower until I was 2.5/2.35 even for the park on a 26.

Even in 27.5 I didn't ever see the advantage of 2.6 for the park unless it was a Maxis 2.6, which is really a 2.5 from anyone else, at Whistler, and then only on the front. 2.3-2.4 seems like it is more than enough for most riding unless I'm riding bottomless kitty litter, snotty mud, or deeper sand.

In 29, 2.5/2.4 Mary/Betty feels sooooo draggy except in the loosest/steepest park riding. 2.4/2.4 Mazza/Dissector for loose CO trail riding is great.

I'll leave the fat tires for fat bikes. Sure, I enjoy riding my 4.8 cake eaters around the snow and even the dirt when the real bike is out of commission.

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Originally Posted by Bluebird

Hopefully last question on this build. Again code rsc’s. One of my Levers isn’t working at all. It is locked out super stiff. Won’t take a bleed either. Wasted a couple stealth thingys trying to troubleshoot. If I stick a small Allen wrench in and depress the plunger thing where the hose goes in I can actuate the lever. But nothing else seems to work.

Thoughts? Am i screwed?


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Those levers aren't that complicated. Take it all apart. See if anything looks fucky. You can get rebuild kits for not too much money. There are instructional videos online if you're disinclined to just start pulling bolts out.

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Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian

I think there is a lot of merit in finding a combo you like and sticking with it. Reliable cornering, braking, etc etc when you get used to certain tread patterns. I would definitely run something wider than 2.3 especially in the front. I'm pretty much Asegai 2.5 up front and DHRII 2.4 in the rear all the time. I rarely run anything different. For most people Exo casings are great. Maybe try Exo+? I run DD casing most of the time and occasionally DH casings. Always Maxx Grip. Always with Cush Core. Again most people don't need that much meat on their wheels though. I think my setup is about as good as it gets for the rare early season wet and throughout the dry loose Montana summer riding.

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Awesome info! I think I will try your setup as it is pretty similar to mine but a bit wider.

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Originally Posted by summit

Hot take: tire preferences are like pizza toppings, but plus bikes were a dumb fad by the industry to sell new shit.

At a certain point, extra width is just counterproductive weight, inertia, and rolling resistance. Lack of traction is usually due to the tread design/compound vs conditions. In some tire designs, extra width makes them worse (I'm looking at you, DHF and clones).

15 years ago I rode 2.8 and 2.7 for 26" park riding. That was silly. I kept getting narrower and narrower until I was 2.5/2.35 even for the park on a 26.

Even in 27.5 I didn't ever see the advantage of 2.6 for the park unless it was a Maxis 2.6, which is really a 2.5 from anyone else, at Whistler, and then only on the front. 2.3-2.4 seems like it is more than enough for most riding unless I'm riding bottomless kitty litter, snotty mud, or deeper sand.

In 29, 2.5/2.4 Mary/Betty feels sooooo draggy except in the loosest/steepest park riding. 2.4/2.4 Mazza/Dissector for loose CO trail riding is great.

I'll leave the fat tires for fat bikes. Sure, I enjoy riding my 4.8 cake eaters around the snow and even the dirt when the real bike is out of commission.

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Yeah, it's interesting how things change over time.

My Hightower in 29 mode I like a 2.4 - 2.3 DHF & R. My Bronson I run a little fatter 2.5 - 2.4 DHF-R. I use the HT as my "xc" bike, so I went with lighter everything relatively speaking. I cannot get away from a DHF because it has saved me so many times when washing out the front end. And I still run + tires on our 'shoulder' seasons. Wet and shallow snow and it works for that, but for the most part + is shite. A few friends have gone to the Agassssee and are super happy with it up front. Maybe I'll try it...idk.

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Originally Posted by jackstraw

I cannot get away from a DHF because it has saved me so many times when washing out the front end.

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DHFs saved me too. But then I also realized that the wide DHFs caused many washouts they were saving me from!

Why?

Because the DHF tread blocks stay the same size while the growing casing just means wider channels between the center and shoulder blocks. So the DHF was scary if you are not quick and precise on your leans. I remember going from 2.5 DHF to 2.7 DHF, then to 2.5 Marys and being amazed how much better things were in terms of not losing the front once I got off the DHF train.

Then after years on the Mary's, I went back to 2.35 DHF and liked them again, both because the DHF and 2.35 made them SOOOOO much faster, and because the 2.35 casing is so much less vague than wider DHFs. Then I loved the TRSr (a DHF clone with chunkier lugs) but it was too square on 33mm rims. I found that the 2.4 DHR2 gave up basically nothing in grip over DHF while rolling faster. 2.6 DHR had more grip for steep/muddy park without having the drifty washout zone of a 2.5 DHF, which, though I've learned to deal with, still isn't something I consider an advantage.

Going back to a 2.5 Mary makes me want to put a 3CG DD Ass-guy on the front for park when the Mary wears out as I think it would be faster rolling with the ramped knobs. But I could also be happy going back to a Betty or a 2.6 DHR for park. I could also do some 2.4 Michy DH tires again. For trail, 2.4 Mazza or DHR up front, and Dissector in the rear (just wished it lasted longer).

Maybe I’m an anomaly but have been enjoying plus tires on the hardtail even past shoulder season. Definitely agree w shoulder season/mini-fat bike though as primary use case.

When my trail bike had a broken spike took my plus HT out with guys on long travel bikes. When it got really rough backed off and let them go, but twisty and relatively techy trails was a fun challenge hanging w them. Wouldn’t do that everyday though, but good change of pace.

Have on my to-do list to set up the HT w proper XC tires 29” for dry/fast summer. Ardent 2.4 F/Ardent race 2.235 rear. Would have preferred a Rekon up front but big ardent should do fine.


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Originally Posted by VTskibum

Are all 20mm thru axle's as absolutely stupid as the current Manitou ones? Never owned anything w 20mm and can definitely say it seems beyond shitty compared to 15mm. At least on my relatively cheap DJ fork, I see absolutely no benefit. More of a rant than a question I suppose.

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yeah manitou 20mm is kind of a pita if removing wheel frequently

however it kicks ass in actual performance as it allows the lowers to be spaced correctly and not pinch the stanchions against their bushings as it moves through travel

on a dh fork this is very noticeable, on a dj fork not so much though

side note, you dont need to tighten the 2 allen bolts very tight after the axle is tightened, they only keep it from backing out, MANY people over tighten these 2 bolts and end up cracking the lowers around that pinch bolt

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Originally Posted by VTskibum

Maybe I’m an anomaly but have been enjoying plus tires on the hardtail even past shoulder season.

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I haven't ridden any 26+ or 27.5+ bikes but I have a Trek Stache with 3" 29er tires. I started with xc tires (XR2s front and rear) and tried a few different combos including a 3" XR4 up front and also 2.7" Terene McFly front and rear but eventually went back to the 3" XR2. While not a beefy tire it rolls really fast and I feel that it has almost as much traction as my 2.5 DHF/Aggressor combo on my Trail bike. It's back to being an xc bike for me but I thin it's more capable on difficult terrain than other xc bikes that I have ridden - hardtails and full suspension.

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Originally Posted by summit

Hot take: tire preferences are like pizza toppings, but plus bikes were a dumb fad by the industry to sell new shit.

At a certain point, extra width is just counterproductive weight, inertia, and rolling resistance. Lack of traction is usually due to the tread design/compound vs conditions. In some tire designs, extra width makes them worse (I'm looking at you, DHF and clones).

15 years ago I rode 2.8 and 2.7 for 26" park riding. That was silly. I kept getting narrower and narrower until I was 2.5/2.35 even for the park on a 26.

Even in 27.5 I didn't ever see the advantage of 2.6 for the park unless it was a Maxis 2.6, which is really a 2.5 from anyone else, at Whistler, and then only on the front. 2.3-2.4 seems like it is more than enough for most riding unless I'm riding bottomless kitty litter, snotty mud, or deeper sand.

In 29, 2.5/2.4 Mary/Betty feels sooooo draggy except in the loosest/steepest park riding. 2.4/2.4 Mazza/Dissector for loose CO trail riding is great.

I'll leave the fat tires for fat bikes. Sure, I enjoy riding my 4.8 cake eaters around the snow and even the dirt when the real bike is out of commission.

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Agreed on plus being a really bad fad, and tires like pizza toppings. Pick a width and be a dick about it! Some might say 2.6 is like the pineapple on pizza argument.
Modern 2.6 tires =/= plus though, having ridden a handful of plus bikes at demos in the industry, a 2.6 Maxxis DHF or Schwalbe HD/MM 2.6 are not squishy like the plus tires. They are just a little wider 2.5, with good sidewalls and I run them only slightly lower or the same as I would run a 2.5/2.4/2.3 (22-25 F, 25-30 r). I need to hop on a bike with "narrow" tires again just to see what the differences are, its been a few years since I've had normal tires since I left the industry.

Anybody succesfully modified/fitted a Fox/ bolt-on style mudguard to a Lyrik?

Hot take: Assegai is the best Maxxis front tire ever and those who think otherwise just haven't ridden them.

@sf

I just got the XL guard for a 36/38 and can hold it up to my friend's '21 Lyrik on Monday for pics...

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Originally Posted by Phall

Some might say 2.6 is like the pineapple on pizza argument.

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I agree, 2.6 is not +, its right on the border of redic/not redic. Depends on the application and the rider. I think it is a disadvantage for many. I chuckle when I see bikes coming with twin 2.6 Rekons... WHY? Small lugged XC tire but go fatty? Weird!

Anyway... HUB QUESTION

My DT EX 1700 Spline 30s have "DT Swiss 350 Straight Pull 36SL" hubs. The wheelset is '21 or '22 coming on a '22 bike. They don't say EXP on the hub, but it doesn't look like DT is putting EXP on the decals anymore? I assume they are EXP? Anyway to tell without pulling the FH off the rear?

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Originally Posted by Bluebird

Sram Code rsc brake mounting. Picked up a 20mm spacer kit to mount to 200 mm rotor on a 180 post mount Lyrik. The kit came with standard and cps mount bolts and washers. Which one is it? I can’t even really tell the difference.

Also, what are the tiny o rings for?


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Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

The non-CPS bolts are the short ones (designed to save weight), the CPS bolts are longer to hold all the stupid washers…
And the o-rings hold all those stupid washers on the bolt when you remove the caliper.
Oh SRAM….

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The CPS bolts and washers are actually legacy parts. They are for the old avid brakes and still are used in BB7’s. You put one set of conical washers below and one on top of the caliper on the older brakes. The non CPS hardware is correct for the sram stuff.

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Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian

Hot take: Assegai is the best Maxxis front tire ever and those who think otherwise just haven't ridden them.

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Ha! I'm pretty sure you're a good maybe really good rider and the two guys who I know that like it are definitely very good riders, therefore I'm going to have to concur. [emoji3]

The Assegai is definitely the grippiest front tire I've ever ridden, but it rolls so slowly that I choose others since my priority is as much the up as the down. Anyone want a barely-used one? I'd trade it for something fast rolling, like a Vittoria Mezcal.

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Originally Posted by summit

Anyway... HUB QUESTION

My DT EX 1700 Spline 30s have "DT Swiss 350 Straight Pull 36SL" hubs. The wheelset is '21 or '22 coming on a '22 bike. They don't say EXP on the hub, but it doesn't look like DT is putting EXP on the decals anymore? I assume they are EXP? Anyway to tell without pulling the FH off the rear?

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350’s will be traditional Star Ratchet with a 36t.
The new 350 is basically the same as the old 240.
Only the new 240s and 180s have the new EXP, meaning the inner ratchet screwed into the hub, with only the outer ring floating.

I need someone who knows AXS.
I have a bike with a rear derailleur: SRAM Force eTap AXS 33 and 36T front ring.
I need to make it a gravel climber type bike. was hoping for a 10-44 matched to a 42t or 40T.
What are my AXS options?
-A Red/Force/Rival 36T rear derailleur, and match it to a the same 36T front, for a 1:1 climbing ratio, but only a 10:36 top gear?
- A Red/Force/Rival XPLR 44T rear derailleur and a bigger 42T up front?

Can I put a MTB 50 AXS derailleur and cassette on it, do i need to run a MTB specific chainring too?

Interested what specs?

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Originally Posted by climberevan

The Assegai is definitely the grippiest front tire I've ever ridden, but it rolls so slowly that I choose others since my priority is as much the up as the down. Anyone want a barely-used one? I'd trade it for something fast rolling, like a Vittoria Mezcal.

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Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

I need someone who knows AXS.
I have a bike with a rear derailleur: SRAM Force eTap AXS 33 and 36T front ring.
I need to make it a gravel climber type bike. was hoping for a 10-44 matched to a 42t or 40T.
What are my AXS options?
-A Red/Force/Rival 36T rear derailleur, and match it to a the same 36T front, for a 1:1 climbing ratio, but only a 10:36 top gear?
- A Red/Force/Rival XPLR 44T rear derailleur and a bigger 42T up front?

Can I put a MTB 50 AXS derailleur and cassette on it, do i need to run a MTB specific chainring too?

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i run 11-40 on the back with a 36T front chainring. 700c-35

can hit 40+ km/h no problem (maybe spinning a little fast). rarely feel the need for a bigger ring, and if so, I can just get on my actual road bike.

also 10 instead of 11, should be fine?

bike calc gives me 42 km/h @ 90 rpm with 36:10 on a 700c-35 tire.

also means closer gearing which is nice if you only want 1:1.

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Originally Posted by sethschmautz

I haven't ridden any 26+ or 27.5+ bikes but I have a Trek Stache with 3" 29er tires. I started with xc tires (XR2s front and rear) and tried a few different combos including a 3" XR4 up front and also 2.7" Terene McFly front and rear but eventually went back to the 3" XR2. While not a beefy tire it rolls really fast and I feel that it has almost as much traction as my 2.5 DHF/Aggressor combo on my Trail bike. It's back to being an xc bike for me but I thin it's more capable on difficult terrain than other xc bikes that I have ridden - hardtails and full suspension.

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After touting benefits of plus tires yesterday, I obliterated this 27x2.8 Ikon last night and had to walk out. 3 co2, 2 bacons in the tread thought I sealed it but realize I ripped the sidewall near the rim/bead, which I also dented… probably too little pressure and charging through some rough trail.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...89c1694194.jpg


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^well that sucks. Hopefully the wheel is still rideable

Yeah probably so. Have 2 other wheelsets I can use, time for XC mode now that it’s summer time.


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