Thanks Bob
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Thanks Bob
That's for both Freerides and Freedoms - be sure you use the right holes*.
*Heh
Ever tried a demo mount with the front and rear spread further apart (than the standard template) to allow more front and rear shift? I have a 315 BSL with Look PX12 Demo2, so I could only go 2cm forward from original boot center mount location when I test fit on a TrustyPine 2x4. FWIW, Using Axial2 Demo Template from gregorys.
The primary reason for using the demo bindings was to experiment with location.
If you know of any threads, I’d appreciate a link.
So I've noticed a few people looking for mounting templates for jr bindings and was myself in that camp last year. With lots of little groms in the house I decided to pick up a used mounting jig for the look/rossi/roxi jr binding family. I now have that jig and am wondering if anyone w/ more experience could guide me through making a template for distribution. I know to measure between the holes but wondering what the easiest and/or best (hoping those aren't too far apart) path forward is for making a good paper template. To be clear, I'm coming into this admitting I need help but it seems like this would be pretty helpful and straightforward. Lets be honest, if paying for shop mounts for adult skis sucks how much more for junior bindings, right? Thanks for any and all suggestions.
^^ the Look/Rossi Axium junior bindings i've mounted use the px/nx/axial 2 pattern which is out there on paper templates and jigarex plates already.
I'm not aware of any other look/ rossi junior patterns but there certainly could be. I certainly have no knowledge of very low din or demo models.
Also at least the Salomon L series junior bindings use the Z series pattern so that's also easy to find.
The junior bindings I've always had to measure and create my own template for are the Marker M series.
I recently read they share toe pattern with Jesters but haven't verified that personally and I think the heel is still different than anything else.
@GeorgiaSnow
I'm more than glad to crank binding templates for you, using supplied measurements. They may not happen super-duper quickly, but I'm more than willing to assist. [Yeah, I know Illustrator is not solid-edge - and it's a semi-hokey way to do them...but seeing what SE puts out, I'm not sure it's tremendously worse either. Solid edge is probably a lot easier for easily measuring the pieces and re-sizing. Illustrator is likely a lot better for nice output and layout issues.]
Alternatively, if you have Illustrator, I can send you my illustrator file and you can adjust the templates and publish yourself.
But, since I've done a few, it will probably be easier for me to do them. I'd guess, with supplied measurements, it's 10-15m to crank out one. It might make the most sense, if you *want* to tweak the illustrator file a bit, to have me crank out the initial, and then have you or someone who has the binding do a test mount. I sometimes/often find I'm a millimeter or so off here or there and so that test-mount and final tweak is a good step to do.
HTH
-Greg
Greg, since I only partially understood most of your comments about this "Illustrator" of which you speak, I'm thinking trying to make accurate measurements and pass them along to you is the way to go. And since we're just doing this to try to help people out in the future I'm sure its not problem for you to do them as you have time to get to it. Pictures and measurements coming.
Will these get it done? These measurements are at the tightest setting, for a 190mm boot sole length. The 134mm length turns to 150mm for 210 which is the setting for rental bindings 203-255.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2fd451e63.heichttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e4f14d00d.heic
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@GeorgiaSnow,Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgiaSnow
“Illustrator” is Adobe Illustrator, the computer graphics program that @Gregorys is using to draw.
To acurately draw a template, the measurements are needed on an X-Y coordinates basis. Let’s call the length of the ski X axis and the width of the ski Y axis.
Your Y axis numbers (25mm and 40mm) are good as measured.
You’ll need to re-measure most of the X axis numbers in relation to the yellow line on this pic. The black arrow points to the fixed boot center location on the jig. {The boot center can be intentionally shifted in relation to the center of ski when mounting a binding, but that’s a diff convo altogether.} In order to work up a universal jig, you need only measure the toe hole(s) X axis distances from the front boot stop (wide end of black triangle on jig - green arrrow on top in pic). Similarly, measure the heel hole(s) X axis distances from the rear boot stop (wide end of black triangle on jig - green arrrow on bottom in pic).
for any given BSL, you can set up a template with 1/2 the BSL measured from the black arrow (boot center) to the green arrows (front and rear of boot).
To make accurate templates, you’ll also need to report which color holes are used and for what setups as well as the corresponding BSL’s for any demo/plate setups (those are the A, B and C measures in mm).
Attachment 217598
Some observations:
1) Are you sure the toe-piece for that binding has *seven* screws? I'd guess the red marks are for one binding and the black marks are for another different binding
2) Please also measure the distance to the "Boot/ski center mark on the jig. [We need that so the paper template can be marked for the ski center.]
---
Here's the way I'd do it. [A pair of electronic/analog calipers can be really handy too, if you only have a binding.]
Put the jig on the piece of card-board [or paper] and tape it down, so it can't move relative to the paper/cardboard.
Draw circles in each of the screw mount holes - trace the whole "circle" of the screw hole in the jig. [For all the applicable heel & toe screws]
Also mark the boot/ski center [as noted] from the jig
Now draw a line that just touches/tangent the front/rear of the hole (centers can work too, but it's harder to eyeball the *exact* center) - across the ski. [Horizontal in your pic.]
Do that for each of the sets of holes. [I'm guessing four screws in toe and heel, so two horizontal lines for the toe and the same for the heel.]
Now measure the distance between those lines - ideally down the where center-line would be on the ski [in mm]. (You don't have to measure down the centerline - as long as you go perpendicular to the horizontal lines, and not a crooked vertical line.)
Be as accurate as possible. A good metal ruler in mm is probably fine.
That will give the "vertical" spacing between each of the sets of holes in the toe & heel, as well as spacing between the toe and heel-pieces for the selected BSL.
It looks like you've already measured the width of the screw patterns. [I'm assuming from the centers (or alternately from the same side - left or right)] - so those should probably be good.
---
Once I'm done with the template, you'd print it [making sure the scaling it correct] and just lay the jig over the top of the paper template. You should see the marked screw holes for the paper template line up with the jig, for the selected BSL on the jig which matches the BSL cut/matched from the paper template.
http://www.slidewright.com/Bindings/Binding2_template_jig.png[/IMG]
Here's the PDF.
^^^ Yeah - like that.
Though drawing a line through the centers of the holes is often hard to do precisely - I'm always off a bit, so I'm never exactly in the center. And, each one is off a bit differently, so the additive error can be significant.
As a remedy I draw the lines across the "top" side - so the line just touches the edge of the hole/circle [it's tangent]. But that's just icing on the cake.
Like the red lines in this illustration, vs the blue (across the center).
Attachment 217629
It might be better to measure edge to edge vs trying to interpolate to center points. Edge to edge should be the same as center to center, assuming the holes are the exact same diameter.
Tyrolia/Fischer/Head Ambition template
Quote:
Originally Posted by kirktab
Just checking, but it seems no one has stepped up with one? CJ, do you still have that plastic one?Quote:
Originally Posted by Climber Joe
Nice timing. I just threw it out while cleaning the gear boxes like a week ago. Sorry. You might be able to get one from tyrolia or a tyrolia retailer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
Heh, story of my life. I was asking for a friend (no, really!) so I'll just pass the bad news along. Thanks anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Climber Joe
@alpinord
I took your PDF, remeasured everything several times over with a metal ruler and feel pretty confident about numbers I've put into the PDF. I noted which front holes go with which bindings as it is noted on the jig and where the center line is at 190mm. I'm attaching that image below (my pdf was too big for the forum after edits). Is this now enough to be a functioning template or turned into one and can someone do whatever needs to be done to it for it to function as such if not?
Attachment 217874
I can adjust this easy enough and convert it to a template. Did you print the PDF and put your jig over it to visually align holes?Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgiaSnow
The 134mm radius you added in lieu of 139mm arc drawn is impossible if the other 134mm radius remains. Did you verify the vertical dimensions? What is your margin of error for each dimension? Generally, I would first wonder why vertically and laterally binding holes wouldn't be to the mm or at least 0.5mm where a radius would be to the nearest 0.1mm.
An alternative approach is to set the jig up on a board or ski with paper on it and punch with 5/16" punch or drill bit or draw holes with a 5/16" pencil or pen. Then you can measure directly on the paper.
http://www.slidewright.com/Bindings/Binding_template_jig_RossiLookRoxyDynastarJr.png[/IMG]
Are there any mag coupons for Binding Freedom floating around? I need to place a rather large order for inserts and some Jigarex plates and a coupon would be nice.
Yeah PM Rontele he can hook you up.
Yawn...Quote:
Originally Posted by ~mikey b
C’mon that joke never gets old.
Try SlideWright for a Maggot discount.
Many thanks for this template! I successfully mounted a pair of Atomic STH2s using this template last night and the holes were all bang on. I was a little nervous when eyeballing my boot length before mounting, so I did a test mount on plywood and it turned out just fine. I ended up moving to the 330 bsl line for my 325mm boots, and I'm still almost at the rear of the binding's adjustment range, so the test mount was a good idea I think.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggydude
Is there a beast 14 template out there somewhere?
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From what I can tell, the Beast 16 and Beast 14 have identical patterns - thus the Beast 16 template should work fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by TeenaGeR
There's one on BF's site:
http://www.bindingfreedom.com/paper-tempaltes/
[Direct: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0Sn...t1dnFPcEE/edit ]
As always, a test mount, on scrap wood, first would be good, or at minimum, lay your binding on top of the template and verify that it looks good (screw holes are where they should be), and has approximately the right spacing for your boot.
Beast 14 toes are totally different from Beast 16 toes. Heel pieces are identical, IIRC.
My bad then. I thought I saw pic of a beast jig that had the toes and heels of the 14/16 marked as identical. (i.e. Red was Beast 16 / Green was Beast 14, and was the same sets of holes for both.)Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
[But, as always I can't find the post now when I need it - I thought it was in this thread...]
Ah, I did find it, and yup, I'm wrong. https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...42#post4344942
But the post below that says the Radical2 and the Beast 14 use the same toe appears to be correct.
There's this:
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...nting-template
[But how much can you trust me now, eh?! :) ]
I think I'm going to combine the radical2 toe template with the beast 16 heel, and just line it up using the bindings and my boot. Thanks for the help guys
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Just picked up some new junior 4FRNT skis and need a paper JUNIOR BINDING TEMPLATE for some 2017/2018 Tyrolia AC's. Can anyone help me out?
Thanks in advance!
I mounted my New HOJI yesterday with a Template I found on here for the STH2. I double checked the scale and it was scaled correctly. I put the 335 line of the template on my mount line. Problem I'm having is my 335 bsl boot requires the binding to be all the way back in the adjustment and once the FWD pressure is set it's maxed out. Shouldn't I be in the middle of the adjustment area?
It's my 7-8th time mounting bindings my self. 1st time having a problem. Wondering if I should re-mount them at 345...
Question for the collective...
I have skis with Pivots and I'm wondering if the Fritschi pattern would play nice for the same BSL, both on the line.
Anyone know, or have templates for both handy and can check?
I'd rather know if a definitely NO before pulling the Pivots and eyeballing. Thanks!!
Tried using the template today to for some attack 14s. Test fit shows the bsl gauge being off and you will end up forward of the line if mounted per the template.Quote:
Originally Posted by MRR11
Mounted some sollyfit plates with the paper jigs. They are $$$
Same thing here. With 16/17 Attack 14 AT to be specific.Quote:
Originally Posted by oldblue
Howdy--
First post--and can't figure out how to search this thread yet. Just picked up a pair of Blizzard Cochise skis and 2016 Look Pivot 12 bindings. Does anyone know what binding template I should use:
Thanks!
Look Pivot axial (PX) Look Pivot axial II
Use the pivot/fks turntable heel template on Bindingfreedom.com, as long as you have the bindings that have the swiveling heel. Those templates you mentioned are not the right for the bindings you have if said what you have correctly.Quote:
Originally Posted by aventeren
Just use the FKS paper template from this thread. However, since you seem unable or unwilling to bother looking at the templates to determine whether either template you mentioned matches your actual binding's hole pattern (they don't), I'd strongly advise doing a test mount on a scrap piece of wood first.Quote:
Originally Posted by aventeren
Do yourself, and your new Cochises, a favor and read through some of this before proceeding. And don't worry about searching this template thread, just read a few pages of it til you get the idea.
Good luck.
Sorry I missed this. Two of the toe holes will be close (Pivot vs. Vipec/Evo/Tecton) if you mount for the same BSL at the same location.Quote:
Originally Posted by N1CK.
I don't have a problem with this and mounted with inserts for the same BSL, at the same location for both bindings on my Quixotes.
When I get to my laptop laptop later in the day, I'll upload the overlap pattern I drew.
... Thom
Inserts were the plan. I'd appreciate the overlap, if you can. Thanks Thom!Quote:
Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un