TGR's Summer Climbing Thread

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08-08-2005, 01:43 PM
Xover

my shots from 8-6-05 from a place that is dear to my heart

Trackhead on Lil Hellion a great 5.9 warmup
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44305.jpg

Trackhead on fun, exposed arete of Lil Hellion
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44306.jpg

Full view of Lil Hellion with Trackhead sluttin it up for Str8
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44307.jpg

Trackhead pulling the airy step out on slab crux
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44308.jpg

Trackhead walking the upper slab
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44309.jpg

Mrs. Trackhead slabbin' it up
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44313.jpg

Fun 2 pitch from the bottom looking up
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44314.jpg

Trackhead gettin' into it
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44315.jpg

Trackhead cruxin'
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44316.jpg

Trackhead with a helluva lot more to go (climb follows skyline - sick!!)
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44317.jpg

Trackhead on an exposed mini-arete
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44318.jpg

Trackhead silohuette
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44319.jpg

Mrs. Trackhead gettin' sum too
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44320.jpg

Mrs. Trackhead gettin' "cruxy" (that's a hot word, heh :biggrin: )
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44321.jpg

Me 2nd'ing the first pitch
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44322.jpg

Nothing like pulling a 10c/d move 125' off the deck with about another 500 verts to the road below = exposurely fun
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44323.jpg

Got beta??
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44324.jpg
08-08-2005, 01:58 PM
NorCalSJK

Hey fellow climbers...just joined Touchstone in Concord(CA), wondering if anyone from here climbs in that gym. Also, would like to hook up for some local (East Bay) climbing if anyone's interested. I worked at Sunrise Mt. Sports in WC/P.Hill for a while, climbed a bunch then but just getting back into it again. PM or whatev...
08-08-2005, 01:59 PM
Trackhead

Nice pics X.

Can you email me the high res of this one?
http://www.biglines.com/photos/blpic44321.jpg
08-08-2005, 02:05 PM
Twoplanker

Farkin nutso. My heart rate increased just looking at those pictures, which means that this is something I should probably be doing.

Someday, I'm going to ask Trackhead to take me out and introduce me to climbing. I susptect I will regret that day. :p
08-08-2005, 02:10 PM
Trackhead

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twoplanker

Farkin nutso. My heart rate increased just looking at those pictures, which means that this is something I should probably be doing.

Someday, I'm going to ask Trackhead to take me out and introduce me to climbing. I susptect I will regret that day. :p

You wouldn't regret it, you would regret how your wife responds when you tell her you need to plunk down a load of cash for a bunch of new gear.
08-08-2005, 02:23 PM
homeless

SLCers,

I'm gonna' be in town for the OR show this week, and I'm taking a bunch of folks climbing on Sunday. Any reccomendations for bolt-clipping in the 5.9 to 5.12 range, close to the city, with plenty of 1-pitch options?

Zach
08-08-2005, 02:25 PM
Twoplanker

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trackhead

You wouldn't regret it, you would regret how your wife responds when you tell her you need to plunk down a load of cash for a bunch of new gear.

Yeah, that's pretty much what's kept me from getting into it. That and the fact that my vagina is usually full of sand.
08-08-2005, 02:30 PM
Trackhead

Quote:

Originally Posted by homeless

SLCers,

I'm gonna' be in town for the OR show this week, and I'm taking a bunch of folks climbing on Sunday. Any reccomendations for bolt-clipping in the 5.9 to 5.12 range, close to the city, with plenty of 1-pitch options?

Zach

This time of year, with the heat............

BCC has shaded routes, but they can tend to be spread out a bit. Otherwise, the areas just shown in this thread are high elevation, cool temps, etc.

LCC is too hot, and is mostly trad.

American Fork is greasy and a 35 minute drive from SLC.
08-08-2005, 04:22 PM
Buzzworthy

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twoplanker

Yeah, that's pretty much what's kept me from getting into it. That and the fact that my vagina is usually full of sand.

Climbing is pretty fun 2P. I have a feeling you would be pretty good at it.

My shoes are a big large for me, bought em wrong years ago. Got a chalk bag left too from them days. Feel free to borrow em. All the rest of the stuff I had was sold.
08-08-2005, 09:43 PM
Trackhead

Great evening routes at Hellgate.

Xover following the 11a pitch. First pitch is 10b.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/1_G_006.jpg

I belayed from the top to shoot photos of him suffering. After him giving me shit for whining like a little girl on the muddy rock (wall is named Mud Wall).
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/2_G_006.jpg

This is right after Xover ripped of a chunk of rock and flew off the route. Told ya so, ya wanker.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/3_G_006.jpg

Last winter touring with Stoy, I learned he never goes home before dark. Well, Xover doesn't either. And he calls me a twitcher.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...ng/4_G_006.jpg

With Xover, if there is an empty Red Bull on the drive up to the crag, you better be ready.
08-10-2005, 08:04 AM
greg

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeleAl

Edit = I did not check pages 2 nor 3, and now I realize this has become more about women and their beautiful breasts.

if that's the case, this shouldn't miss. it would probably be rated NSFW in the states. attention: it's for the joy of heteros AND homos of all sex and kind.

edit: oh, i forgot this and that..
08-10-2005, 08:17 AM
The AD

http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a..._004.sized.jpg

That's great climbing considering he has only has one arm and all ;)
08-15-2005, 08:59 AM
Xover

lead first trad pitch last Friday with Powstash
super fun in a "heavy hitting, soul-boy" kind of way
will post pics tomorrow
more bling ordered this week
08-15-2005, 10:41 AM
baseWeldr

girls and climbing...
my big one up on a nice piece of vert (fitz park, grand ledge mi)
http://www.tetongravity.com/usergall...eyvertwall.jpg
my little one starting an exposed scramble
http://www.tetongravity.com/usergall...myexposure.jpg
08-15-2005, 12:39 PM
Trackhead

Focused.
http://www.tetongravity.com/usergall...eyvertwall.jpg
08-15-2005, 12:50 PM
homeless

Got to spend a few hours between American Fork and Big Cottonwood, yesterday.

That was my first time on limestone... crap, my forearms are still swolen.
08-15-2005, 12:52 PM
Xover

mmmm limestone - me love limestone :)
08-15-2005, 02:29 PM
juicy

Spearhead RMNP 8/14/05:

The objective:
http://images.climbingboulder.com/beta/source/277.jpg

The view from the bottom:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91...arb/barb06.jpg

The view from the top:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91...arb/barb14.jpg
08-15-2005, 02:43 PM
Will

Quote:

Originally Posted by juicy

Spearhead RMNP 8/14/05:

The view from the top:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91...arb/barb14.jpg

Awesome.
08-15-2005, 02:55 PM
Mountain Junkie

^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Did that climb a couple weeks ago. I was going to eventually post the pics, but looks like you beat me to it. I think I have almost the exact same pic of my second pulling the crux.
08-15-2005, 10:14 PM
juicy

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mountain Junkie

^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Did that climb a couple weeks ago. I was going to eventually post the pics, but looks like you beat me to it. I think I have almost the exact same pic of my second pulling the crux.

yep......right at the crux. pretty nice granite on those upper pitches.
08-15-2005, 11:22 PM
TeleAl

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xover

mmmm limestone - me love limestone :)

We got some 2 miles wide of it going some 500 feet up in my town.
Come on over. Cell Block A awaits you.

25 minutes to the rock from my door, 10 minutes to get back.

BTW, nice pics from your TR!!!
08-16-2005, 06:26 AM
Xover

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeleAl

25 minutes to the rock from my door, 10 minutes to get back.

now that sounds like a steep ass trail :eek:
08-16-2005, 08:35 PM
Trackhead

We all have our nemesis. This is mine.

Only got one lap on it today. Rained out again. Need to come back and work on it this fall, after building some power for the beast.

Route follows arch to the right.
http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...g/IMG_1670.jpg
08-16-2005, 08:55 PM
Camilo

Your climbs are weak! Here's some quality PDX climbing. Can't be led except by free solo (no gear, no bolt ethic at this crag). Free solo wasn't an option because the landlord (girlfriend's dad) would probably shoot me. He climbed it too though.
First one is FTRA (First top rope ascent) of a 5.5 route by my girlfriend:
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...achmentid=6950
Me, same route, second ascent:
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...achmentid=6951 FTRA of 5.8 route by me, right before the crux:
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...achmentid=6952
08-16-2005, 09:21 PM
Trackhead

Looks like you could put a #2 or #3 camalot in those brick horizontals.
08-16-2005, 09:30 PM
Camilo

Tried a #2. Too shallow. Tricams might work, but I only have pink and red. Plus those bricks are about 70 years old. A lead fall on one would crack it in half. We had to belay from the top because we couldn't build a solid TR anchor on the bricks. Fun 2 hours when I couldn't get out to climb real rock though. I'll take the camera next time I'm climbing so I can contribute some real climbing shots.
08-16-2005, 09:33 PM
Trackhead

How about a little BigBro? Not that it matters.
08-16-2005, 10:28 PM
Camilo

Maybe. I don't have any BigBros to test it with. I've never even seen Big Bros placed horizontally like that. I think a tricam would be best. Not that it matters ;)
08-18-2005, 01:33 AM
TeleAl

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xover

now that sounds like a steep ass trail :eek:

[IMG]http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/8139/dsc048474rh.jpg[/IMG]

Tour d'Ai. Leysin, Suisse. Altitude = just above tree line.
250+ routes.
4 pitches high.
All protected and ready to climb.

The part in the middle, creating the shadow is called the Sphinx.
It's famous in these parts.

The wall in the background, above Nadia's head is more of the same.
It's call the Diamond, on the Tour de Mayen.

25 minutes up = with lift, bike hanging on hook, then hiking over.
10 minutes down = on bike, following farmers' road.

All limestone.
:tdo13: :tdo13: :tdo13:
08-18-2005, 06:38 AM
Xover

so Trackhead, when do you want to go ^ for some Euro, pocket love?? :fm:

that place looks seeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeick!!
08-18-2005, 12:49 PM
TeleAl

More Limestone! Location = Col du Pillon/Glacier 3000. Altitude = 1896m.
After staring at this wall for years, I finally got there today.
Did not climb, it started to rain.
But, what a space!
[IMG]http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/7687/dsc048546vb.jpg[/IMG]
08-18-2005, 01:16 PM
DJMingus

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeleAl

[IMG]http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/8139/dsc048474rh.jpg[/IMG]

Tour d'Ai. Leysin, Suisse. Altitude = just above tree line.
250+ routes.
4 pitches high.
All protected and ready to climb.

The part in the middle, creating the shadow is called the Sphinx.
It's famous in these parts.

The wall in the background, above Nadia's head is more of the same.
It's call the Diamond, on the Tour de Mayen.

25 minutes up = with lift, bike hanging on hook, then hiking over.
10 minutes down = on bike, following farmers' road.

All limestone.
:tdo13: :tdo13: :tdo13:

<3 limestone... finally going to get out on some granite sport this weekend after many weeks of minimal climbing. &*%$ing heat! :cussing:
08-20-2005, 07:38 PM
Trackhead

My brother is now getting his oldest child out on the plastic. She'll be climbing 13a by the time she's 10.

http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...camera_116.jpg

http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...camera_119.jpg

http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...camera_125.jpg

http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...camera_126.jpg

http://fritzrips.com/v-web/gallery/a...camera_133.jpg
08-20-2005, 08:59 PM
vanilla gorilla

the full trip report

stayed at a resort this weekend that had a zip line and a climbing wall. zip line was on a 75 foot tower and up on top of a 100 foot bluff overlooking pelican lake. the zip line ran from the tower down to the public beach. 6 year old emily was pretty enthusiastic and went down it without any hesitation.

then emily hit the climbing wall. she had never climbed anything more than a tree. she slapped on the helmet and harness and nervously said "on belay". then she cruised up the wall with style and grace. she made all of the adult first timers look like idiots. she hit a few tough spots but did some problem solving and continued the ascent. there were some spots i thought she would fall off. but she made some pretty cool moves and picked good lines. she never let go of the wall until she hit the top. it is amazing how much natural ability/instinct she has for it. she really did look graceful and skilled going up the wall. the workers on belay thought she had to have been on a wall before.

she went up a few times then wanted to hit the wall with a little overhang. she did well on that until the gaps between holds got too big for her little body. making it about half way up.

then 4 year old eli gave it a shot. he did pretty well until he got to about 8 feet up the wall. he got down and looked up the wall. he asked "did i almost make it to the top dad?". his voice sounded as if he really believed he made it that high. had to tell him "you sure did buddy".

fun stuff after one of the most stressful weeks of my life.

thanks for posting that TH. i am too computer stupid to get pics to work. those pics were too cute not to share. kids make you proud too. she is looking forward to trip to moab. she is ready to school you
08-22-2005, 12:02 PM
Red Baron

LCC climbers, check out this note that just came through on a canyoneering forum, scary stuff...

--------------------------------------------------
I had to chime in here with another rock fall story from climbing
recently.

I was climbing Satans corner a couple of weeks ago up LCC. A party on
a variation of Beckys Wall (right around the corner from our route)
kept pulling down small rocks. Well, then we heard a very stressed
ROCK! From the top of Satans I witnessed 2 rocks about the size of
footballs bounce off the cliff and narrowly miss Penny's head by 6-12
inches. She was not climbing that day, but was hanging out at the
belay in an area we thought would be out of rockfall danger while Jim
and I climbed Satans.

The belayer of the other group had apparently been hit in the shin by
the granite boulder on the way down, then it had broken into 2 larger
pieces and a smaller piece and continued down the cliff. We rapped off
after my second got to the top of the first pitch to see if we could
help.

The belayer had 2 wounds probably to the bone, lot's of blood, and
what might possibly have been a broken leg. He and his partner
self-evacuated. Neither had

been wearing helmets.

Scary stuff, and a sobering reminder of rockfall danger. Be careful.
Wear your helmet.
08-22-2005, 02:35 PM
hucksquaw

climbing in Switzerland:

summit of the Dom:
http://tetongravity.com/forums/attac...tid=6994&stc=1

me on summit of Dom, took the picture of myself because camera was freezing up so i only had a couple quick seconds to shoot whatever i could:
http://tetongravity.com/forums/attac...tid=6995&stc=1

me on way down from Dufourspitze(in background):
http://tetongravity.com/forums/attac...tid=6996&stc=1

Monte Rosa hut with Lyskamm in background:
http://tetongravity.com/forums/attac...tid=6997&stc=1

taking a quick break near 4000m on Dufourspitze:
http://tetongravity.com/forums/attac...tid=6998&stc=1
08-22-2005, 02:44 PM
hucksquaw

more from Switzerland....

tracks towards Dufourspitze summit:
http://tetongravity.com/forums/attac...tid=6999&stc=1

view down Gornergletscher from Monte Rosa hut:
http://tetongravity.com/forums/attac...tid=7000&stc=1

resupply chopper at Monte Rosa hut:
http://tetongravity.com/forums/attac...tid=7001&stc=1

Weisshorn, which was actually supposed to be our second target after Dufourspitze but when we were there the route became way too dangerous because of the 3-5 feet of snow they got in just a couple days, so we headed to the Dom instead:
http://tetongravity.com/forums/attac...tid=7002&stc=1

Dom on left (with cloud coming off summit) and Taschorn on right:
http://tetongravity.com/forums/attac...tid=7003&stc=1
08-22-2005, 02:46 PM
Trackhead

Great pics^^^^^!!!
08-22-2005, 03:04 PM
Mountain Freak

This is just ugly
http://tetongravity.com/forums/attac...tid=6997&stc=1
Nice shots, absolutely beautiful area.

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