Ask the experts

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Originally Posted by 406

shimano xt 3x10 drivetrain on my old hardtail is shot, thinking replacing with shimano xt 1x11, which should fit old freehub and non-boost frame. Remove front Derailleur and 2 chainrings and everything should fit/work, right? Not wanting to spend a lot of money, but do plan to use the bike for a few more years.

https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-XT...Speed-Cassette

Am I missing something:
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You'll probably prefer a 1X narrow-wide chainring vs reusing the middle ring off the 3X crank. And you'll need a set of single chainring bolts. Amazon has a bunch of cheap aluminum ones, some include the bolts, for under $20. They're generally surprisingly decent for how cheap they are. You'll need to confirm (measure) the bolt pattern on your crank, but guessing it's probably a 104bcd.

I'd also suggest looking at a wider spread cassette. Sunrace makes a decent quality 11-46 11-speed cassette with nice tooth jumps, and cheaper than Shimano. Shimano's older 11-46 cassette had a big jump to the 46 - perhaps there's a newer version now that has better spacing. Both Mrs C and I have that Sunrace 11-46 on 11-speed bikes.

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Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

I'd also suggest looking at a wider spread cassette. Sunrace makes a decent quality 11-46 11-speed cassette with nice tooth jumps, and cheaper than Shimano. Shimano's older 11-46 cassette had a big jump to the 46 - perhaps there's a newer version now that has better spacing. Both Mrs C and I have that Sunrace 11-46 on 11-speed bikes.

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This. That Sunrace 11-46 is nice, especially if replacing a 2-3 ring setup. Been using those for a while now, without any issues.

Sounds good, thanks guys.

About to pull the trigger on new wheels, which means I need to decide what drivetrain I'm gonna run.

Last fall I built up my Patrol with Microshift Advent X. I like it better than GX Eagle, except for one thing: I have more chain slap with it than I've had since the dark days of front derailleurs. I've got the clutch turned up all the way, I've got the correct chain length, and I've got the B-Screw set properly, but in any given gear it has way more slack in the chain than my partner's Shimano 12 speed, or my bike with Eagle. And on the trail, that slack means the chain is flying all over the place, and feels terrible when I go to put some power down after a bouncy section.

So, at this point, I feel like I have a few options:

1) hope I have a bad derailleur, get a new one from Microshift (they're cheap) swap it out, and party on
2) Give up on running a budget drivetrain on a modern bike and brave the parts shortage to find a new 12 speed drivetrain to put on the bike
3) Suck it up, buttercup.

Anybody have opinions between those options? I'm leaning toward #1, and hoping that if I combine a new derailleur with a smaller chainring and shorter chain I can get something that feels less like someone's chasing me with a flail.

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Originally Posted by cydwhit

About to pull the trigger on new wheels, which means I need to decide what drivetrain I'm gonna run.

Last fall I built up my Patrol with Microshift Advent X. I like it better than GX Eagle, except for one thing: I have more chain slap with it than I've had since the dark days of front derailleurs. I've got the clutch turned up all the way, I've got the correct chain length, and I've got the B-Screw set properly, but in any given gear it has way more slack in the chain than my partner's Shimano 12 speed, or my bike with Eagle. And on the trail, that slack means the chain is flying all over the place, and feels terrible when I go to put some power down after a bouncy section.

So, at this point, I feel like I have a few options:

1) hope I have a bad derailleur, get a new one from Microshift (they're cheap) swap it out, and party on
2) Give up on running a budget drivetrain on a modern bike and brave the parts shortage to find a new 12 speed drivetrain to put on the bike
3) Suck it up, buttercup.

Anybody have opinions between those options? I'm leaning toward #1, and hoping that if I combine a new derailleur with a smaller chainring and shorter chain I can get something that feels less like someone's chasing me with a flail.

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I think the advent x has a normal 10 speed cog spacing, right? So maybe just run the drivetrain with an xt 10 speed shifter / derailleur? It looks like a long cage xt handles a 46t max, so you'd be pushing it a bit with a 48t, but I bet it'd work.

Apologies if this has been asked, at page 273 I'm sure it's come up many times.

How precise are you with air shock and fork service intervals? I've got a Rockshox 35 Gold fork and Fox Float DPS Performance shock from my Trance, both have 60 hours on them.

For the fork, per the manual I'm due for lower leg service (recommended at every 50 hours). Easy call there, I'll get that done no problem. No where close to needing the damper and spring service (at every 200 hours)

So far, straight forward. Here's were I'm wondering though:

For the shock it's recommending a full service every 125 hours or season. I'm at 60 hours, but yeah, new season.. What happens at the end of the season that necessitates a the full service when the hours are nowhere close?!

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

I can say with certainty I've never once serviced fork or shock anywhere close to those intervals. Probably add a zero and I might get close. So I'm not a good example. I'll usually send it in when it starts to feel like crap, or I start to get the "I really should probably service this one of these days" feeling, usually before a big trip.

At this point I can't get my RS SID or SIDLuxe serviced as no one seems to have the service kits. Same problem a year ago. I'm probably at well over 1,000 hrs at this point. Not really sure what RS expects riders to do - stop riding?

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Originally Posted by cydwhit

Last fall I built up my Patrol with Microshift Advent X. I like it better than GX Eagle, except for one thing: I have more chain slap with it than I've had since the dark days of front derailleurs. I've got the clutch turned up all the way, I've got the correct chain length, and I've got the B-Screw set properly, but in any given gear it has way more slack in the chain than my partner's Shimano 12 speed, or my bike with Eagle. And on the trail, that slack means the chain is flying all over the place, and feels terrible when I go to put some power down after a bouncy section.

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Seems like that's the way they are. I've been trying out Advent X as well and having similar experience. It shifts great and rides nicely on smooth trail, but as soon as the trail gets rough there is a ton of noisy chain slap. I had read a couple reviews before buying saying this was an issue, but for the price figured I'd take a chance. I'll likely put it on my hardtail or the next bike I'm selling : ) I'm trying to chase down some other annoying creaks which is the only reason the chainslap hasn't become a priority yet.

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Originally Posted by evdog

I can say with certainty I've never once serviced fork or shock anywhere close to those intervals. Probably add a zero and I might get close. So I'm not a good example. I'll usually send it in when it starts to feel like crap, or I start to get the "I really should probably service this one of these days" feeling, usually before a big trip.

At this point I can't get my RS SID or SIDLuxe serviced as no one seems to have the service kits. Same problem a year ago. I'm probably at well over 1,000 hrs at this point. Not really sure what RS expects riders to do - stop riding?

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X2. I rebuild when they start to feel crappy. Maybe a little earlier if they've been subjected to something particularly horrible or if I have a big trip coming up where I want the suspension to work nicely.

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Originally Posted by toast2266

I think the advent x has a normal 10 speed cog spacing, right? So maybe just run the drivetrain with an xt 10 speed shifter / derailleur? It looks like a long cage xt handles a 46t max, so you'd be pushing it a bit with a 48t, but I bet it'd work.

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This is why I ask the experts, thanks!

This seems like by far the best solution.

I stay on top of suspension service because I learned with motos that fresh oil and clean bushings etc makes a big difference. No one notices that their suspension is performing poorly because it's such a slow slide down.

Nearly all of the time one can get away with an air can or lower leg service without replacing any parts (unless they are already leaking, of course). I haven't rebuilt a SID, but I've done at least 4 lower services on a Fox 34 (and 2x so far on an Step Cast, 2x on a DVO, and others) and haven't replaced seals or crush washers. (The crush washers just hold oil baths in the lowers, and are not under pressure, so you can get them to re-seal easily or even use a bit of gasket sealer to help out.)

Dampers can be harder, but you can even rebuild them without replacing parts if you're really careful. Fresh oil is worth it after 100+ hours, for sure. (Oh, and the numbers are just recommendations. "A season" is a shorthand to help people who don't keep track of time. Nothing magical happens in the winter.)

As I've said before, suspension service (and even tuning) is not some sort of mystic art that only adherents to the secret code can perform. Work carefully and slowly and don't force anything and you'll be fine.

I feel like an idiot.

When I bought my enduro last spring it was my first air shock on a bike. IIRC I only had about 5 rides on it when the Float X2 started doing that weird squishy sound thing after the bike sat for a few hours. It clears up after a few strokes through the travel and didn’t seem to affect performance to the point that I felt I needed to investigate.

Just googled it for shits and gigs and it looks like the squishy sound is nothing new for this shock and usually means air mixed with oil due to faulty o-ring. This issue was supposed to be corrected in like 2019 from what I’ve read. I need to check with the shop I bought it from in March 2021 but pretty sure I’m outta warranty.

What would a mag do?

Paging rideit, anyone in Jackson that can rebuild it without having to send it to Fox? Cost?

Should I just buy a DHX2? Fack.

$200 rebuild. Send it to DirtLabs.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Hoff’s is an authorized Fox repair center.

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Originally Posted by rideit

Hoff’s is an authorized Fox repair center.

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Excellent, I knew you’d have the beta

My drivetrain is due for replacement, and I’m thinking of replacing the current 10-42 cassette with a 10-46 Sunrace.

Chain and chainring will be replaced at the same time, is there anything else I need to consider with the gearing change? Aside from making sure the cassette is an XD version.

I’m not sure I’ll notice any performance difference, as I suspect the cassette is not the limiting factor on my climbs - the wheezing and gasping suggests otherwise.

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Originally Posted by BCtransplant

My drivetrain is due for replacement, and I’m thinking of replacing the current 10-42 cassette with a 10-46 Sunrace.

Chain and chainring will be replaced at the same time, is there anything else I need to consider with the gearing change? Aside from making sure the cassette is an XD version.

I’m not sure I’ll notice any performance difference, as I suspect the cassette is not the limiting factor on my climbs - the wheezing and gasping suggests otherwise.

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Make sure your rear derailleur can handle the increased tooth count / bigger cog.

For the fat bikers, do you run the same pressure front and back or do run slightly higher in the back tire?

When trails are firm im pretty similar front and rear. When its soft i usually have less in the rear. Before i put a wren on my bike i ran the front softer but now its usually higher pressure than rear.

27.5 x 2.8 tire on 80mm fat bike rim for summer riding? I'm thinking it'll be fine, are there issues i might not be aware of?

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Originally Posted by Beaver

27.5 x 2.8 tire on 80mm fat bike rim for summer riding? I'm thinking it'll be fine, are there issues i might not be aware of?

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No issues just have to fight the women off ya when they see your ride
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a435474c32.jpg

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Originally Posted by Beaver

27.5 x 2.8 tire on 80mm fat bike rim for summer riding? I'm thinking it'll be fine, are there issues i might not be aware of?

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I tried that on my 65mm fat rims, and it was...not good. Built up a 2nd wheelset with 35mm rims for 29x3 front and 27.5x2.8 rear and it works much, much better. The bike spends most of its time with the plus setup on anyhow, so it turned out to be a good thing. Then it's easy to throw the fatties on when we actually get enough snow/ice around me.

YMMV.

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Originally Posted by toast2266

Make sure your rear derailleur can handle the increased tooth count / bigger cog.

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Just the clearance on the jockey wheel, or is there additional load on the der that needs to be considered?

The internet tells me it will “probably” work, but wondering how I can figure that out before I buy.

Anyone have practical experience running an 11 speed X01 derailleur on a 46 tooth cog?

The b-screw can be adjusted to deal with a bigger cassette, but the main limiter is the cage's ability to deal with the difference in chain wrap between the big and little cogs. Old school road derailleurs have really short cages bc they only need to deal with 12-23. That was when men were been and knees were expendable.

Anyway, I put an 11-46 Sunrace on my Krampus, which has NX and came with 11-42. It works but isn't thrilled about shifting into the biggest cog.

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Originally Posted by BCtransplant

Just the clearance on the jockey wheel, or is there additional load on the der that needs to be considered?

The internet tells me it will “probably” work, but wondering how I can figure that out before I buy.

Anyone have practical experience running an 11 speed X01 derailleur on a 46 tooth cog?

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To add to what climberevan said, every derailleur has a stated maximum tooth capacity. For an X01 11 speed long cage derailleur, that stated capacity is 42 teeth.

I've found that you can almost always exceed that maximum capacity a little bit, but going up to a 46 tooth is pushing it a bit. So yeah, I'd say there's a 70% chance it'll more or less work and a 95% chance that shifting into that 46 tooth cog will not be particularly smooth. And since you'll likely have to run the b-screw quite a ways in to get it to work, shifting in the other gears will likely be a little worse too.