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If it really is 1/4 gap that is questionable install. When the customer wants a floating panel, with get slope on the curb and a 1/8max gap and the water stays in the shower. They do make plastic sweeps for glass doors. You may be able to get one of those to work. They get nasty also, but you toss the and get a new one. Caulking is a bit of an art. I don't let anyone do it on my job except me and the painters.
Asked this in the unthreadworthy question thread, but it might get more answers here.
Anyone ever insulate their garage doors? Did it make a big difference? Cause problems?
Got a couple of quotes for replacement of the non-insulated doors with insulated ones, but 2 doors is going to cost $2500 minimum, more than it seems worth it to do. DIY insulation kits are cheap and seem somewhat simple (depending on which type) but I have read that they might add too much weight to the door and wear out the motor. But some insulation kits, that are basically reflectix material, don't weigh more than 4-5 pounds, so hard to imagine that would mess up the operation of a spring/motor designed to lift a very heavy steel door. Right?
Ive seen garage doors with 2 inch foam blueboard cut to size and attached somehow, glue or whatevs...prolly a bit tedious to do but cheap and simple.
Blueboard is R10. Those kits are usually R8. Assuming you have a standard panelized door, this kit is gonna be a cleaner install and Blueboard ain't that cheap. See how the door buck is finished against the garage door. That can be a big air infiltration area.
I had no trouble finding a replacement sweep for the bottom of my frameless glass shower door. The original tore after a few years but mold was never a problem.
We have some Jeld-Wen French doors that apparently have lifetime warranty on weatherstripping. They came with the house, but when I finally figured out what company they were from and got the warranty info, I was pretty happy to find out that they'd send me all new weatherstripping to replace the old stuff for free. Definitely cut down on drafting.
"I had no trouble finding a replacement sweep for the bottom of my frameless glass shower door. The original tore after a few years but mold was never a problem"
Not the door sweep but the panel beside it. I have it all cleaned up and the shower all scrubbed out. A few spots soaking in mold killer for a few hours before I caulk the fucker again.
A sweep might still work. Possibly trimmed
I need to figure out dimmable LED conversion for my recessed cans. I see kits but im a little lost. I dont want to have to do any sheet rock work to replace the fixtures. They are buried up in there. Just screwing dimmable LED bulbs in the sockets isn't going to work, ive tried that already, with lots of flickering, an explided bulb, and lots of humming noises. Fortunately no fires so far. Is there a product that can handle pretty old cans and still be dimmable? Easy fix for one section was to put in a non-dimmer switch. But I want to go back to dimmable.
You should be able to get there with dimmable bulbs and a led rated dimmer switch but might have to do some trial and error for a combo that works.
Tried tgat, hasn't been reliable so far. What I could find is that the boxes (ballasts?) on each can are not compatible with dimmable LED. There's no way I really want to rip those out because they are not easily accessible. So is there going to be a conversion kit that will even do what I want? I see kits, online but have no clue.
Home Depot sells these “inserts”
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commerci...-259/314018779
The Commercial Electric 5/6 in. Color temperature select LED downlight is an easy way to upgrade your existing can lights to the sleek look of recessed lighting and LED energy efficient technology. These LED downlights are compatible with most dimmer switches and are equipped with a unique color temperature (CCT) changing technology.
If you can get the old fixture and ballast out and just pop in a modern LED can it will work.Quote:
Originally Posted by riser4
You “should” be able to dissect the old housing, pull it out and yank out the old ballast without cutting drywall. Seems possible.
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That was my first instinct. However, it really looks like I'd make a huge mess of the drywall ceiling or have to cut a lot of metal. The hole in the ceiling appears smaller than the diameter of the can as the end of it is above the level of the ceiling. They are in a drywalled feature running around the outside of the kitchen that is lower than the actual ceiling. Im pretty sure they installed these things first from the side, and then cut the holes from below, sealed up the "box" around them. I cant upload a picture. Im not at all willing to try and cut metal in a narrow opening above my face. The HD retrofit kits are probably my best bet.
Well yeah Riser, that's how it is done. Goggle "new construction recessed lights" and you'll see that the cans are suspended on 2 bars between the framing.
This video does a decent job of showing what you are most likely dealing with https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgA35NoPS88
Short story: kill the breaker, take you the bulb, pull down on the trim ring, defeat the springs, find the tabs that hold the baffle to the socket, defeat that.
Now you should know what you got and can purchase a retro kit that looks like it works.
Yeah, those LEDs are pretty nice. I have a few samples laying around. I've been trying to figure out how to replace some track lighting in my kitchen in them for a while. Not sure if I ever will though because we have other challenges. But if I could, those put out much better light than the old bulbs. Offer more adjustability.
Indeed. The led dimming industry is still not fully mature. The Lutron dimmers i have in my own home fail after a couple of years. Clients have not complained, though, so maybe i just got a couple of lemons.Quote:
Originally Posted by carlh
I'm my bus, the 12v PWM dimmers i found on aliexpress have been perfect. Nice smooth dimming with no flicker in the puck or strips.
I have some fairly old standard dimmer switches in my house. I tried some higher end bulbs and they all flickered or made noise. Having pretty good luck ironically with Walmart brand. They haven't flickered or made noise and are a warm light which I like instead of blue.
I was in the hardware store the other day and had some sticker shock looking at led dimmers and gfci plugs. That shit adds up fast as I looked longingly at the 3prong discount plugs lol
Last time I had an HVAC tech out they noticed I was using the stock washable slash resuable air filter and mentioned I should just use a cheap disposable filter, so I've been doing that lately. Now that I'm buying disposable filters I see theres super thick filters so Im wondering if theres any benifit to ditching the electro static and casstte filters as well? (yes I know that sounds dumb)
EDIT I edited the aspostrophies out and it is still a mess sorry
Lutron has a bulb compatibility tool, but it sucks ass to use (makes the TGR search function look pro) and there's no way they can keep up with the proliferation of new models/brands in the LED bulb space:Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
https://intl.lutron.com/en-US/Pages/...atibility.aspx
Still, might find something there. Some dimmers are better than others, some bulbs are better than others. Some combos just don't like each other.
We have BIG tall windows at the front of our house facing the street making up most of the front facade and we love them because they let in lots of natural light... which is nice in the PNW where its dark for 9months a year. However, they are BIG tall windows that face the street and everyone walking their dog sees straight into our living room and dining room especially when its dark out and we have lights on inside. What are people's thoughts on putting a tint/reflective coating on the windows? I see it on office buildings everywhere, but never on residential houses. What are the pros/cons, and are there any cool products or solutions to know about to give us some privacy while still letting in natural light (i.e. not blinds/curtains)?
Bottom up blinds. We have the tint on one of our condos that face west causing it to heat up in the summer afternoons. Works great for keeping the heat down. Not as concerned about the privacy since it is top floor and no one can see in anyway, but if we were, it would be sufficient I think. Maybe just lean into it and put a big French leg lamp in the front window.
Quote:
Originally Posted by californiagrown
Reflective tint doesn't work at night when your lights are on, but is not a bad idea if you have concerns about daytime visibility.
Otherwise, echoing the answer of blinds that adjust from both top and bottom. We have them in every room of the house and even on the second story I find them nice. Our place came with the Graber brand ones that I see them selling at the costco checkout lane and they seem nice enough. Easy to block street-walker line of sight but preserve much of your view and natural light from inside.
You can also try sheer roller shades--you can still sort of see through them when you're close, but people looking in won't see much. Similar night time problems to the reflective tint, but you can get a dual-roller system and let down a non-transparent shade once it is dark outside.
Or just act like a rich person: https://robbreport.com/shelter/space...en-1235497395/
I walk around in my underwear downstairs all the time, sometimes i walk naked from showering through the living room to get some clean clothes from the dryer. I have no qualms about making my nakedness public- EVERYONE wants to see that. But the interior of our house looks like a 3/4yr old lives there and we dont need to be showing THAT off.Quote:
Originally Posted by singlesline
Sounds like if i went with a tint/reflectiv coating i could have the bottom blinds open during the day, and then at night i could raise the blinds. Then id be 100% covered with maximum natural light.
Im partial to the soft glow of electric sex.
Renovating the master bedroom. Old carpet is ripped up so the floor is completely bare.Floor is very squeaky.Is there anything I can do at this point to help it be less noisy?(I have no visibility or knowledge of where the floor joists are)
Nuke from orbit. Behead the remains.
I'm literally afraid of what I will find if I rip this up.Not a single 4x8 sheet, just a mess of random ass sizes.https://imgur.com/a/qrZd9Ja
I'm sure the pros will weigh in, but until then it shouldn't be hard to find the joists--where the nails are. Screw the boards down. There is more you can do but I doubt it would be worth it. Is this first floor? Is there access to the joist bays from below.? Does wiring and plumbing go through the joists for that room? If it's second story you have to worry about wires going through the joists, hopefully far enough below the floor to be out of harms way or protected by plates. Other than the odd sizes does the construction look professional?Quote:
Originally Posted by Thaleia
The floor I laid on a second story addition was nailed down with spiral shank nails (this was before drywall screws and their successors) with construction adhesive and hasn't squeaked in 40 years. Now I'm living in a house where every step squeaks. It's easy to ignore.
That.. makes sense. Thank you.
So odd I can log in on my phone by quoting someone, but not on my pc. Carry on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thaleia