I laughed. Seriously, when are they going to rebrand to Massive Gap Filler?Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
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I laughed. Seriously, when are they going to rebrand to Massive Gap Filler?Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
I first heard about Permachink ~[emoji638][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]] years ago from a couple different friends who hand built their own log homes. . Was just at one of their houses [emoji639] weeks ago and the shit was holding up great. I’d say name recognition is working well for them.
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Its a great product but would you try to sell that stuff going door to door in China town ?
Q for the homeowners: what do you use an oscillating multi-tool for? I don't have one, but just ordered one as part of a battery promo through Home Depot -- I need the extra batteries mainly (already have other Ridgid cordless tools), and can return the tool separately. The tool cost by itself is about $70.
This tool:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1...242B/327655219
And in case anyone is interested in the package deal, you buy the batteries for $129 at this link, and select the "free gift with purchase" - which lets you select that oscillating multitool:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1...40SB/328296486
The receipt will show the batteries as one line item, and the tool as another line item, so you can return the tool separately (for $70) or return the batteries (for $60).
Question is what don’t I use it for. Takes a bit to gather the blades you want for each task, but excellent for cutting trim, dadoing, drywall cutouts, clipping nails in hard to reach places, ad nauseum. Very handy tool for those odd little cutting and finishing jobs.
Yup, great tool and has gotten me out of lot of jams- most recently trimming branches off the Christmas tree after it was put in the stand.
Tried clipping my nails with it. Super messyQuote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound
I agree that the oscillating tool is a keeper. Like BCMtnhound said, once you have one, the applications keep presenting themselves. I'm addition to his list, I've also used mine to undercut door jambs, replacing a jamb saw.
This may not be the right thread for this, but I have a hip flask with a small leak in the neck/flask joint. The first fix that comes to mind is a soldering iron and some plumbing solder and letting it wick in around the neck. Any thoughts? Is cured JB Weld food safe?
Thanks all - sounds like a keeper.
It’s all in the blade. Although a dull wood blade does seem to work once the friction heats it up a bit. But that burning hair smell ….Quote:
Originally Posted by skialpy
Harbor Freight stocks a bunch of blades. Just used the grout blade to redo the shower. Worked great.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
They're great for fairly precise plunge cuts among other things.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
beware that there are a great variety in quality of them (never tried that one) but the cheap are miserable on elbows, the nice like Fein are almost pleasurable to use and with the right attachments (buy a decent priced multipack of many types) gets dumb shit done quick without much thinking. The sawing functionality ain’t great, but if you’ve got the tool, blade, stop it works pretty well. And better than buying some junk.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Good to know HD is still too stupid to invoice the 2/1 tool sale correctly I bought a high torque 1/2" impact for a song on that deal after returning the second "free" item.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
I think it is done intentionally as a form of price discrimination.Quote:
Originally Posted by fatnslow
Us cheapasses that scroll forms slickdeals to find these deals never would have bought the fancy red (or your favorite color) tools without the deal. We jump through the hoop of waiting for the “free battery” trick and making the return to get it cheap.
But the pros don’t have time to wait around for the deal…they buy the tool when they need it. Occasionally that overlaps with the deal, other times they pay full price. Doesn’t matter because the tool will earn them more.
And the average consumer buys the deal but keeps the battery because they don’t know any better.
Easy way to sell the same item for three different prices to three different types of customers. Like the difference between regular coupons and “extreme couponing”
The ryobi ain’t bad.
Multi tool is an essential tool.
Wood blades
Bi metal blades
Metal blades
Diamond blades
Does damn near anything.
And if you grind a dull blade to a toothless nub it makes the perfect pumpkin carving tool. Way safer for kids than a knife
Toothless blade is also great for cutting silicone window gaskets and tapes.
Drywall outlet cutouts might be my favorite feature.
House/dog sitting for my sister now and her house has big glulam beams running the full length from front to back, maybe 6" x 24" tall or so. They project out in front and back as architectural accents. Night time temps are in the teens here and holy fucked up thermal bridge issues. About every 45 minutes there's a pop or creak, sometimes loud enough to wake you up.
Fortunately this house is just a rental. I can't believe that every house built like this has this issues, WTF?
My office has a bunch of glue lam beams that extend from interior to exterior. Never heard any noteworthy creaks or pops, although l don't spend nights in there. This is in a building that's probably ~60 years old, and I'm guessing had little if any engineering done at the time of construction. So maybe everything that was gonna pop has popped by now.Quote:
Originally Posted by dan_pdx
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We lived in a flat roof 1950's-60's house for awhile and that's how you could tell when it was -20 f, the roof would pop and snap loud enough to wake you up.
Our house has 3 big beams that go front to back that extend outside the walls on both ends. Not glu lams--solid wood salvaged from an Oakland pier apparently. I hear a lot of movement in the structure be the structure , also critters running around inside the walls, Ponderosa cones dropping on the roof, my wife's outside wall art banging in the wind, and random noises I can't figure out. I often wake to the sound of trains on the hillside across the lake from me but I go right back to sleep. I don't think I could sleep if the house was quiet.
I have aluminium siding which is great stuff and it snap/ crackle/ pops when the sun hits it
Log home here, it snaps and crackles with big temp swings. No big deal though.
Dang, my house is 100+ years old and has its share of creaks (and occasionally something in the floor/walls), but these loud pops are something else.
I replaced the cartridges in my lav sink with a generic I found at home depot. Would have bought name brand if I could. Paid $11 each or so. They worked ok for a few weeks and then started dripping. Running a small stream now. Just a lousy cartridge? Or symptoms of some other problem?
My 1971-built midcentury has like 30 beams running front to back through the exterior walls. No sounds from them but we have a T&G ceiling with a standing seam roof, no attic, and wow the metal pops and creaks in the summer when the roof is cooling down at night.
Tenant says her HVAC system shit the bed. It is 30 years old and it appears the blower is dead, so time for a new unit.
My usual source gave me an outrageous quote today for a 2.5 ton unit. Looking on the internet I see: https://hvacdirect.com/2-5-ton-14-3-...al-185790.html
I would need to find a HVAC installer. What do you think installation would run in an attic that is ready to go (existing ductwork, etc).
Thanks
What's the price of the quote?
I would imagine there will be some geographic cost variations so maybe give your geo too
A good friend of mine just asked a similar question. She had a quote for a new small system using existing ductwork. Everything was super easy access, not even in an attic. $10,500. I responded that I couldn't help because HVAC guys are gold-plated and they know it. There is a legitimate labor shortage in that industry and they have all seemingly decided to take maximum advantage of it.
You will likely struggle to find anyone willing to install a unit that they don't provide (and mark up). I understand this sentiment and probably wouldn't do it either. My solution was to acquire the tools and learn to do it myself, like I have done with everything else. I saved at least a couple $k on my first one.
No skilled trade is showing up at your house for less than a grand…. it’s not going to be cheap.
The lazy gut check - labor:material ratio is between one:one and three:one depending on trade. Technical trades with expensive materials are closer to one:one, laborious trades with cheaper materials are closer to three:one.
Or… figure it out: What would it take? Two humans, two days at hundred an hour. Thats three grand right there….
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"A hundred an hour"...try at least $200/hr for HVAC. Plumbers here are asking for $190 per man. I honestly don't understand how anyone other than the mega-rich can afford to have work done on their houses. (Not to bring politics into it, but kicking out a substantial portion of the workforce isn't going to help things!)
Good chance that furnace is manufactured in MX too.Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
Changing out a blower motor is pretty cheap/easy compared to r&r of a whole system. A 30 year old furnace is definitely past it's service life but it can buy you some time.
liv2ski - No hvac company in their right mind is going to install your unit you buy. Only chance you have is finding a moonlighter off of craigslist (or do it yourself). I'd replace it for greater efficiency and reliability (hopefully new units can be shit) even if you dont pay electric/gas bill (assuming blower is for furnace too) I replaced my old gas furance two springs ago. Its drop in and easy. HVAC/refigeration is a different beast but honestly there's so much good info out there on youtube. I did my own heat pump at my cabin.
I am an engineer. I am confident that i can learn and hack together a fix for damn near anything that breaks in my house, or learn and install a new system.
Will it be perfect, or 100% to code? maybe, but unlikely.
Will it function? Yeah.
Will it be cheaper than having a pro do it? Depends on how much i value my time... especially because i will take 3x-4x as much time as a pro to learn, buy tools, fuckup, fix the fuckup go to HD 20 times, and finally patch up the drywall. Nevermind abandoning my wife and kids during the time that i am home creating unneeded tension all while adding additional stress to my life during what is supposed to be my free time to enjoy. So, if i think that my time is cheap, then yes DIYing bigger projects saves me money. But if i highly value my time, most medium-big jobs are "cheaper" to farm out. I ended up in this mindset after buying a home and spending the first 3 years doing everything myself, and the last couple farming out anything that would take longer than half a day.
Actually, I did get a quote of 3,800 to do the install and haul away the old unit if I really want to use the system I found on the internet. It seems like the smaller shops will do that.
I was also offered many other hvac system alternatives, so the decision now is very hard. For the AC portion, do I go heat pump or standard AC?
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As far as I know, if you only want AC, just get an AC. Only get the heat pump if you also want to use it for heating.
I just went through this in our house in Portland and we wound up with a ducted heat pump and natural gas furnace as auxiliary heat. I don't have the numbers in front of me, but I think the heat pump was around 30% of that and we would have saved a couple thousand dollars if we had just put in an AC instead. I wanted both because it gives us a little bit of protection if either the electric company or the natural gas company decides to fuck us on our rates. Of course, is a good chance they'll coordinate and both fuck us at the same time, I guess that's when we'll have to get solar panels.
Doing more reading I agree, for a rental, skip the heat pump. Thanks Dan
Qualified Tradesman kinda get to name their price. The longer I've been in business (25years-ish), the more I realize that the game is to try and separate rick people from their money whilst having them be happy. If you get the reputation for ripping people off, that's bad for business. I got a bid from a flooring contractor for twice what my regular guy was. That's a no call back no referral situation. The hard part for a homeowner is your not in the game daily so its hard to get a basis for value. I just assume that people expect that it is gonna be half the price that it is. If they want to price shop me, fine. 90%+ of the time, the job never happens.
Many trades, have markup on materials built into the business plan. HVAC does, Carpentry doesn't. If you don't want to use their product, some guys will tell you to pound sand. Other guys will just put that markup onto the labor side and give you no warranty.
I'm not familiar with either your marker or the install so I can't tell you what a fair price is. Good luck.