PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

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Originally Posted by Alpinord

Check this out: Grip Walk Vs WTR Pivots

I need to review this thread to refresh the memory, but I do have a GW replacement sitting on my desk if needed:


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Originally Posted by waveshello

This guy did it:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2c3dfb9ead.jpg

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Originally Posted by ::: :::

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Seems similar on a general scale to the post above

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Originally Posted by kid-kapow

I've swapped Dual WTR and GripWalk AFDs on 14s with no issue - I see no reason that you could not with alpine and GW as well. It makes little sense to change the molds for the main binding parts to accomodate differing AFDs, easier to just make the AFD molding cater to existing designs when making it to fit new norms.
and yeah, this adds nothing as Alpinord already provided the same info with the depicted parts :)

I did have some issues with remounting a pair of alpine AFD Pivot 18s on a newer pedestal (they worked fine with Cast) - but that is the only issue I've run into wrt swapping around parts on Pivots.

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Originally Posted by ::: :::

I've reached out to Rossi CS to ask on compatibility for the old P14 non-WTR/Dual/GW toe piece

I'll report here what I hear from them.

This image in the 20/21 Tech Manual made me wonder if somehow the 5355 AFD was ok with GW. But clearly, they could have updated that profile height to work differently from mine, so I just need to wait & see what they say.
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I have a few questions about the potential to swap the old pivot 14 5355 afd for a new GW afd..

First, is it worth it to use the old but good px 14s or go with the new attack 14s I have just opened. I like the pivots safety and stack height etc. Never used attacks. But old is old and the attacks are proven, solid, low and new. The bindings will go on the BO 104.

I could use DIN 5355 toe and heel plates on the boots to keep using old Markers and the pivots, but I can just use old boots for the old 5355 only binders.

Do you all who have mounted a lot of bindings and have more experience with reusing older pivots think is it a waste of time to try to put the old pivot 14s on a GW afd...and is it even possible without dremel work on the plastic GW afd to make it work on the old 14 toe piece? I think I saw a newdchoolers post by someone who did it but I could be wrong.

The pivot 14s are a decade old but were on skis that I didn't use much. Probably 50-60 days max.

The little rectangular opening on the 5355 toe piece on my old pivot 14s may to be plug and play with a new GW afd without modification.

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I suspect I could put a 5355 toe plates on my new boots and leave the GW heel plates and they would play fine with the old looks but not ready to try it.

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This thread and a couple of botched shop jobs inspired me to start mounting my own skis last year. I used a paper template with drill guide at first but figured I could improve upon that so I drew up a jig in SketchUp and got it 3d printed. I picked up some drill bushings off of eBay for 10 bucks that work with a stepped bit for inserts. I've mounted a couple pairs with the jig and so far so good!

The jig would work for most (maybe all?) ATK bindings I believe. I put the .stl file on GitHub if anyone wants to download it and print it themselves.

https://github.com/mikeylikesrocks/b...jig_231212.stl



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Originally Posted by Mikey Schaefer

This thread and a couple of botched shop jobs inspired me to start mounting my own skis last year. I used a paper template with drill guide at first but figured I could improve upon that so I drew up a jig in SketchUp and got it 3d printed. I picked up some drill bushings off of eBay for 10 bucks that work with a stepped bit for inserts. I've mounted a couple pairs with the jig and so far so good!

The jig would work for most (maybe all?) ATK bindings I believe. I put the .stl file on GitHub if anyone wants to download it and print it themselves.

https://github.com/mikeylikesrocks/b...jig_231212.stl



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Rad. Very helpful.

Wanted to mount a pair skis with metal this weekend , but realized I don't have a 12AB tap . Will order one but won't get here in time. Any ghetto options to get this done?

Do you really need a tap, will the screw cut the threads without a tap ?

Try this?

The hardening process might be a bit much but grinding slots into a binding screw might get the job done.

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

Do you really need a tap, will the screw cut the threads without a tap ?

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Right. I've done skis with metal sheets without a tap many times (and also with a tap many times since I got a tap). Well maybe many is an exaggeration, but at least 5-6 each with and without.

I think the difficult thing is getting the screws in straight - since its always a thin sheet the screws want to go sideways to align the spiral threads parallel to the sheet. You just have to fight them to keep them straight but is definitely possible. A tap makes it nicer but not strictly necessary imo.

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

Do you really need a tap, will the screw cut the threads without a tap ?

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I dunno..In a solid ski it just doesn’t feel right. The material is being compressed rather than cut. I’m no engineer but enough compression of a good metal topsheet is gonna cause bad things like micro delam around the hole or micro cracks in the metal.

Tap is extra credit.


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well ok but if you don't have a tap would you not do the mount or would you do it anyway ?

I don't think I have ever mounted a metal top sheet but I'm no tsure

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Originally Posted by priapism

Total newbie here. Can I reuse screw holes from a mount once binding screws have been removed or are they toast and require new glue or redrill?

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Turn the screws backwards(leftie loosie) while pressing down gently; when you here or feel a light “clunk” sound, you are correctly placing the screw threads into the ones left by removing the binding. Then tighten, should be very easy until the last half turn where ideally it torques down quite firm.


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Originally Posted by riff

Turn the screws backwards(leftie loosie) while pressing down gently; when you here or feel a light “clunk” sound, you are correctly placing the screw threads into the ones left by removing the binding. Then tighten, should be very easy until the last half turn where ideally it torques down quite firm.


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yes this ^^ a good way to feel the thread is to turn the screw just using the bit

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

well ok but if you don't have a tap would you not do the mount or would you do it anyway ?

I don't think I have ever mounted a metal top sheet but I'm no tsure

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I would wait for the tap to arrive in the mail.

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Tap that keg.

Tap that ass.

Tap that ski.

This thing is so fuckin' rad MottN -- thanks. Excited to mount some skis this weekend.

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Originally Posted by Duffman

Wanted to mount a pair skis with metal this weekend , but realized I don't have a 12AB tap . Will order one but won't get here in time. Any ghetto options to get this done?

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A tap is definitely worth having, but for years I just used an extra screw to pre-thread the hole. Make sure to use correct bit size for metal, punch a divot, pre-drill with small pilot bit, drill with larger bit, place pilot screw in hole, make sure level, lightly tap screw head with hammer to set screw, create threads with the pilot screw.

so don't you really just wana tap the metal top sheet if you got a tap ... which i don't ?

I have taken to drilling a small pilot hole which is definatley more accurate

I can't see myself mounting any skis with metal in them

Question for you who tap. Do you use power tools for the screws?

Don't know if I've been lucky, but I've never tapped skis (except for insert installs), metal or not, and all have come out just fine. But I turn the screws manually with screwdriver only. Regular HSS bit, 3.5 mm or 4.0 mm if metal.

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Originally Posted by waxoff

Question for you who tap. Do you use power tools for the screws?

Don't know if I've been lucky, but I've never tapped skis (except for insert installs), metal or not, and all have come out just fine. But I turn the screws manually with screwdriver only. Regular HSS bit, 3.5 mm or 4.0 mm if metal.

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Personally, I never use a power tool to install the screws. The risk to reward ratio just isn’t there for me.
I’m like you and only ever tap for inserts. But I am gonna tap my new FL105s since I hear they’re a bitch to mount without tapping the 4.1

I don't own a power tool that would mount binding screws and I don't do it often enough TO need a power tool that would mount binding screws so i just use a screwdriver with the replaceable bits which is all you need along with a T-square

I know its crazy talk but I use a wine bottle corkand a washer over a 5/32nd bit which is 3.96875 but who's counting


If i was in the bidness I would assume doing mounts by hand would be too slow but also kill my hands so it would be power tools/ jigs/ bits yadayada all the stuff but Its unusual for me to do a mount > once a year

i told a neighbor carpenter bud I use a plug-in 50 yr old B&D drill and he said well thats OK so if you ever need to do a job just go buy them at the lumber yard

i know most of you have the battery collections which I have so far avoided

I do use my cordless drill with the clutch set low enough to avoid stripping the threads then finish off by hand.

What's the current best practice for addressing a pulled out BF insert? I missed a season and a half due to a new injury, but I vaguely remember identifying it as a spinner. Well, it no longer spins, pulled clean. Really zapped my excitement about setting up my new shop and getting my gear tuned up. I missed a season and a half due to a new injury, but I vaguely remember identifying it as a spinner.
I know I could probably go the helicoil route, but I'd like to avoid having to buy those tools right now if possible. Would filling with epoxy and re-tapping work? Machineable epoxy? Like I said, I'm rusty.

Never dealt with inserts but slowset epoxy & some FG strands chopped into 1/2" lengths will work for binding screws IME so I imagine it would work for an insert, run the screw in till its about to spin and let cure for a day or 2 before cranking it down

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Originally Posted by Drazzamatazz

What's the current best practice for addressing a pulled out BF insert? I missed a season and a half due to a new injury, but I vaguely remember identifying it as a spinner. Well, it no longer spins, pulled clean. Really zapped my excitement about setting up my new shop and getting my gear tuned up. I missed a season and a half due to a new injury, but I vaguely remember identifying it as a spinner.
I know I could probably go the helicoil route, but I'd like to avoid having to buy those tools right now if possible. Would filling with epoxy and re-tapping work? Machineable epoxy? Like I said, I'm rusty.

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Quiver Killer rescue insert? https://quiverkiller.com/products/qk...inserts-4-pack
Saved me when I ripped out a helicoiled heel piece

I’ve mounted a lot of skis, tons of skis with a lot of metal in them. I never tap. Only for inserts. I use my m12 impact set on 1 and then finish by hand. Tapping every mount would take way to long in a shop setting, also the reason inserts cost more then a regular mount.