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Putty is hard to get in there. But it works to seal a hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by tuco
I don’t get the skewer is better idea.
Skewers and golf tees (with epoxy) are good alternatives to plastic plugs when holes are close.
But. If you fill an entire hole with slow cure epoxy, that seems pretty strong to me. The hard part is getting it to flow and not having an air pocket.
Heat gun and toothpick or paper clip poking helps.
It's not that hard to fill the hole w/ putty
Yeah. Mash it in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by tuco
But my thought was more about a more liquid epoxy soaking into the wood core. Esp if holes are close.
I’ll keep this in mind. I wound up at the store and bought the thicker skewers and drill sanded them to a fairly tight fit. I’ve got like two more remounts planned, some one that may require overlapping holes.Quote:
Originally Posted by tuco
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Well not quite that I fucked up, but did a bit of a hack job. I’m not sure what the shop used on the screws on some skis I’m remounting, but I broke not 1 but 2 t20 bits trying to pull the screw. Which resulted in a stripped head. Started drilling, fucked up a couple bits trying to drill too fast. Got an easy out to wedge in, then snap. Broke the screw off right at the top of the ski. Started drilling again, but the bit wandered, soAttachment 468986 I only drilled half the screw, and also made a huge hole in my ski. Managed to pull the remainder of the screw. Luckily managed to get two dowels in with epoxy, and move the mount back 5mm from the line so it’s not quite sharing the hole. not quite finished, but boy has it been a struggle.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
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nice work
At least you are persistent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shred Baron
You can use 2 part epoxy and collodial silica to thicken it into a peanut butter paste. Then you can either jam that shit in until it overflows and poke it down or get some epoxy syringes off amazon.
I guess I'm shitty at math and/or spatial visualization, but this conundrum seems to be causing me more anguish than it should.
I have a pair of old blizzard peacemakers with pivots which need a remount due to a smaller BSL. The heels have been fixed for spinners so I'd really prefer not to pull them -- plus the original mount was at +1.5 for a 325ish(?) BSL, so moving the toe back should put me closer to recommended. I've been skiing them with 320 bsl with the heel basically maxed out in the forward position, and now need mount for a 315 bsl. Is there any way I can test how far back I need to move the toepiece to put me in the middle of the heel adjustment range (since i don't remember the exact BSL for which it was originally mounted)?
Or just move it between 1 and 1.5 cm back and call it good?
Print out the paper templates, space them for the proper new BSL and measure from one of the rear screws to one of the front screws, then use that dimension to place the template on the ski?Quote:
Originally Posted by NWFlow
Oh, duh! Thank you, sir
My DIY drill guide was “holed out”, so I went to scavenge the garage for a suitable piece of plate steel and found this:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...23792401fa.jpg
Simpson Strong-Tie TP35
The holes are an exact match for the 3.6mm binding bit diameter. Pretty awesome ready-made solution for perfectly aligned drilling. Simple pleasures…
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Just chiming in to say that Gorilla glue construction adhesive is by far the most impressive binding mounting adhesive I have used in 30 years of mounting my own bindings. No rust, no loosening, waterproof, easy to remove screws. Get sum!
I still use marine epoxy for remounts, etc. but have found nothing better for fresh mounts.
C113 @ +1
Can't wait to get on em!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...56e3b3546e.jpg
FKNA! Those are hawt!Quote:
Originally Posted by waveshello
On a darker note, I did my first mount of the year yesterday on my beautiful new FR110s. On the first toe, wasn’t thinking and used a T-handle instead of the screwdriver I normally use. Spun the first screw and now I’m thoroughly annoyed with myself. Switched to the screwdriver for the rest and gobbed a bunch of extra G-flex into the spun hole. Lazy fix, but I think it’ll be fine for me.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...992e9b9d41.jpg
Oh, also put these lovely things together.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5cd9ba91e3.jpg
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kingpins with leashes?
if I can - wtf.
why not just go with ATKs at half the weight, better toes and more than adequate heels / mpre than enough power transfer with freeride spacers?
Less color matchy for sure, but still
Haha, fair enough. A crime of convenience--it's an outlet pair with 2 existing alpinist mounts (only 2 holes different than a KP), and I pulled the brakeless KPs off another ski. The color matchy was a happy little accident. I did leave plastic plugs in two of the alpinist holes in case I end up wanting to switch to tech heels down the road. I like KPs ok though!Quote:
Originally Posted by kid-kapow
That looks like a fun mini-quiver... I think I could be happy with one or three other of those two most days in the NW.Quote:
Originally Posted by lucknau
might be a dumb question but would like a sanity check.. does anyone know if the older non GW attack1 13 demo binding holes match the attack2 standard holes? Obvious caveat being the demo binding holes might not match up to my BSL depending on the original mount position.
Paper template thread and initial research seems the mount pattern is the same between attack1 vs attack2 with only the toe update, but wasnt sure if this held true for demos. Thanks in advance, just verifying before I make a mess of the apartment swapping everything.
EDIT - search func finally pulled the attack demo thread after a few tries. Will check there as well.
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...+13+demo+holes
pretty sure they do, but I would double check the measurements with what you gotQuote:
Originally Posted by fbw360
The heel pattern is the same (apart from the bsl) but the toes are different.Quote:
Originally Posted by fbw360
Teach the children well.
Attachment 475088
Mounted my BC90s today with MottN's 3d printed jig. Heel pins line up perfectly with no fuss.
Just need some snow... Attachment 475127Attachment 475128
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Another year, another round of mounting my kids’ skis.
148 Kenjas
178 Chronics
156 Revolt 95s
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ed99d4f0c7.jpg
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I have begun the journey of mounting my own fucking skis and have a question about how many mounts is acceptable… these black ops 118s are cooked and have 3 mounts but are currently too far forward for my tastes. Two of the mounts are forward of the line while the current mount is on the line, i want to move them back a bit by reusing the rear two mount holes for the toe and pulling the heel back the appropriate distance. First picture is the current situation, second picture is about where i would be putting new holes. I know the conventional wisdom is 3 mounts but some people mount 4-5 times or more, so my question is whether this is a good idea or not. My new holes would have significant clearance from all of the current ones, and i could use inserts if that would help. Ski does not have metal but it has an abs mount plate and it’s a poplar core. First two sets of holes filled with plugs, i could dowel and epoxy the current holes though. Will my skis snap in half? Please enlighten me.
Attachment 475867
Attachment 475868
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