PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

https://www.tetongravity.com/images/...yna__forum.jpg

Does this pic show now?

Yes, nice his/her rides.

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Originally Posted by axebiker

I spring clamp already. The problem is that I don't know exactly where the problem is occurring- is it the jig or is it the plate? That and I'm not sure I have anything that I could use to measure alignment to that level of accuracy. That said, it more of an annoyance than anything- I don't really notice it skiing. But for what I paid for the jig, it's probably worth addressing.

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You got any plates with a center hole, tele heels or Vertical toes? If so, draw a center line on some masking tape on a ski, and see if the center hole lines up with the line on the tape. If it doesn't, the jig is the problem. If it lines up, leave the jig in place, put the offending plate on, use a center punch or awl and just mark the holes on the masking tape. Remove jig and see if the marks are out of whack.

I agree it doesn't matter, but I could say the same about a lot of other stupid shit I do too.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03...81665299ca.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03...d7f47804f8.jpg

Remount as the recommended boot center mark was way forward, 1 5/8 too much. May even get to try them out befour da snow all gone.

Jigarex works great for me. Mounted Dukes, Guardians, Griffons, and lots on Salomon STH2...never an issue.

First time trying this. Mounted my friends fucking skis.

https://www.tetongravity.com/images/...zed__forum.jpg

Used this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GUGDh6hTtk.

Pretty much the same steps as in this thread but a little simplified. Came out perfect.

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Originally Posted by Bandit Man

Jigarex works great for me. Mounted Dukes, Guardians, Griffons, and lots on Salomon STH2...never an issue.

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Like I said, if you want mounting to be easy and brainless the Jigarex is great but if you're concerned about accuracy it's use is specious. Every user in our group buy has had trouble using the jig with regards to proper centering.

I would gather it's kinda like bad mouthing ON3P skis, it's not pc to criticize somethings.

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Originally Posted by AaronWright

Like I said, if you want mounting to be easy and brainless the Jigarex is great but if you're concerned about accuracy it's use is specious. Every user in our group buy has had trouble using the jig with regards to proper centering.

I would gather it's kinda like bad mouthing ON3P skis, it's not pc to criticize somethings.

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I think the criticism is fine and sounds like it is warranted. I was a shop rat for 10 years and still own OEM jigs. Been pleasantly suprised that the Jigarex has worked so well for me given others' experiences to the contrary.

I think calling out the failures (and trying to be objective) helps a ton. But this is TGR and bias runs rampant.

And for the record, I thought the first generation ON3P Billy Goat was a piece of shit. The current iteration is my favorite ski ever, though. :D

First go with vipecs.

https://www.tetongravity.com/images/...391__forum.jpg

Took off Radicals. Had a hole conflict to stay on boot center. Went about 1 cm forward. BD boot center is pretty far back.

https://www.tetongravity.com/images/...251__forum.jpg

BD was supposed to send me a template, and it may still arrive. The Wildsnow template worked fine.
I find using a hole punch to be a big help.

https://www.tetongravity.com/images/...081__forum.jpg


https://www.tetongravity.com/images/...221__forum.jpg

Spot on mount.

Skied then today.
Nice.

https://www.tetongravity.com/images/...tes__forum.jpg

BND tele/dynafit plates.
Went on easy, and appear well designed and well made.

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Originally Posted by AaronWright

Like I said, if you want mounting to be easy and brainless the Jigarex is great but if you're concerned about accuracy it's use is specious. Every user in our group buy has had trouble using the jig with regards to proper centering.

I would gather it's kinda like bad mouthing ON3P skis, it's not pc to criticize somethings.

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What issues have you/people had in regards to centring/other issues? Curious, as I have used jigarex to mount all our skis and haven't run into an issue, yet, and want to keep it that way...

Regarding Jigarex.

I have only used it twice. Once was an easy, perfect Tour mount. Almost had a real problem when I realized it moved fore/aft. I have an extra drill bit, so I left it in place after drilling to hold the jig in place. It was nearly a disaster. I don't mind being way off- I figure extra holes just make a ski lighter. But being <1cm of would really suck.
I can't swear that the binding is perfectly centered, as I never, ever measure once the holes are in. But, it looks good to the eye and skis great.

The other time I used it was for Speeds. Of the dozen or so tech mounts I have done, this one ended up being the most fiddly. I ended up leaving one binding "good enough". Couldn't get the heel to line up well. They still tour and ski fine, and the only way to tell is to put them up on a bench. But, I had assumed that with a brand new jig it would be a fast, easy job, and it was not.

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Originally Posted by shafty85

What issues have you/people had in regards to centring/other issues? Curious, as I have used jigarex to mount all our skis and haven't run into an issue, yet, and want to keep it that way...

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The centering mechanism will jump teeth when cranked sometimes. The jig will be loose and move requiring multiple rechecks unless spring or c clamped when you know the jig is centered. To me it seems that a paper template and tape is just as easy and more reliable at the point.

Done about 15 or so mounts with mah jiggy and never had a bad one yet.

Hm, I'm in the same boat as scottyb, though I always try to remember to double check alignment and always clamp the jig down to ensure no/less movement

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Originally Posted by shafty85

Hm, I'm in the same boat as scottyb, though I always try to remember to double check alignment and always clamp the jig down to ensure no/less movement

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I guess that's the point. If you have to clamp and re-check then it's just as easy and more accurate to use paper.

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Originally Posted by AaronWright

I guess that's the point. If you have to clamp and re-check then it's just as easy and more accurate to use paper.

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I'd disagree, at least for installing inserts - eyeball test is easy to check alignment (if the track has skipped a tooth, it would be easy to tell) and clamps take 2 seconds. I also find the jig more accurate than paper. ymmv

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Originally Posted by shafty85

I'd disagree, at least for installing inserts - eyeball test is easy to check alignment (if the track has skipped a tooth, it would be easy to tell) and clamps take 2 seconds. I also find the jig more accurate than paper. ymmv

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I am anal so I marked the center line on each end of the the jig. I mount the Jiga Rex and then double check the distance from the mark to each ski edge. So far the jig has been dead nuts. This might take an additional 60 seconds. I previously used paper templates and IMO the Jiga Rex is much easier, faster.

I put a sticker ruler from slidewright on my jigarex. Easy to see the side to side now.

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Originally Posted by bigdude2468

I am anal so I marked the center line on each end of the the jig. I mount the Jiga Rex and then double check the distance from the mark to each ski edge. So far the jig has been dead nuts. This might take an additional 60 seconds. I previously used paper templates and IMO the Jiga Rex is much easier, faster.

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I, too, marked the centre of the jig. Measured to confirm for the first few mounts, now I just eyeball because it's been consistently accurate. Agreed regarding the time savings and ease of use. But, if people find paper easier, have at 'er - to each their own, as they say.

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Originally Posted by detrusor

I put a sticker ruler from slidewright on my jigarex. Easy to see the side to side now.

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That is a good way to go, might have to try that.

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Originally Posted by detrusor

I put a sticker ruler from slidewright on my jigarex. Easy to see the side to side now.

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Ideally, one on each end and each side centered on the BSC if you see the need to offset mounts.

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Originally Posted by detrusor

I put a sticker ruler from slidewright on my jigarex. Easy to see the side to side now.

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I got a large Plexi scraper from Terry several years ago. Unbeknownst to me he put one of his centerline stickers on it, I use it every time for mounts and it is one of my most valued ski tools.

THX Terry!

Didn't think about putting stickers on the jig itself...hmmm...

From the Jigarex thread:

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Originally Posted by North

TLDR:
1. Make sure ski clamp slides operate smoothly - any binding issues can be fixed by filing/sanding slide
2. If the clamps bind, don't try to push through it using the spinny lever - the plastic will strip and skip teeth (duh)
3. Supervise all novice users to avoid swiss cheese mounts

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4. Draw a centerline on a piece of tape on the ski and (or scribe) on the center of two ends of the Jigarex frame.

or add Centering Ruler Stickers on the ends and BSC:


https://www.tetongravity.com/images/...ker__forum.jpg

Edit to add:

https://www.tetongravity.com/images/...rex__forum.jpg

An alternative to drawing a center line:

• use a combination square against the edge set to an arbitrary length, near the end of the Jigarex
• make a mark from each edge
• measure the distance between to find center of ski
• double check alignment of the Jigarex

At the BSC mark the gradations on the ruler are helpful for offsets, too.

https://www.tetongravity.com/images/...ler__forum.jpg
On the Line

https://www.tetongravity.com/images/...c_1__forum.jpg
+1 cm

I guess I was expecting the facility and accuracy of a shop jig. It is easy, just not as accurate without futzing as I had hoped for.

Thanks for the tip on sticking the Slidewright sticker on the ends/side of the jig, that sounds better than trying to scratch all my plates.

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Originally Posted by Andeh

Thanks for the tip on sticking the Slidewright sticker on the ends/side of the jig, that sounds better than trying to scratch all my plates.

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FWIW I did not mark the plates. I took a file and put a small groove on each end of the Jig, right in the middle. So when I set the Jig on the ski and tighten the arms I can see if the Jig is properly centered. I have a micrometer that I bought from Harbor tolls for about $10 that i use.

Mounted up my 185 Praxis powderboards today. Salomon Warden mnc demos at 99cm straight tape pull for 307 bsl. Attachment 178608Attachment 178610Didn't have a template so I made my own. Attachment 178607After plugging previous solly mount, things went smoothly.Attachment 178612Practice mount on 2x4 to be sure of template measurements. Attachment 178611

I have this thread to thank once again for these skills. Can't wait to ski them. They have plenty of room to accommodate anyone who would like to try them. They will certainly be around for BBI17.

Very nice man.

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Originally Posted by NW_SKIER

Didn't have a template so I made my own. Attachment 178607

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fucking brilliant!
well done!

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Originally Posted by acinpdx

fucking brilliant!
well done!

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Thank you. It worked surprisingly well.

Picked up a pair of new Atomic Vantage 100's and some STH2 bindings at end of the season sales. Looks like an awesome ski to replace my now rock skis, my beloved Movement Sources. I could not find a paper template here, so found one elsewhere. Lucky I mounted to a 2X4 first, as the scaling was waaaay off. Anyways, after measuring 50 different ways, got them drilled and mounted.
Thanks TGR for helping a jong do some of this stuff on his own. And now the pics.

Attachment 178943
Attachment 178944

I am not seeing any beer in those pictures?

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Originally Posted by scottyb

I am not seeing any beer in those pictures?

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Right? In honor of that, I'm reposting this from the paper template thread:

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Originally Posted by Alpinord

See Radical 2.0 template above (and G3 ION, below) as a heel line example and template links. I can provide measurements for heel locations relative to the Jigrex plates we have in stock if needed.

G3 ION template:
http://www.slidewright.com/Bindings/G3_ION_Template.jpg

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Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper

This worked perfectly. Thanks Terry! I owe you beer/brown liquor:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskmrqyzju.jpg

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I'm sure this is somewhere in the 51 pages of posts but I can't find it - sorry in advance for the repeat.

I'm trying to replicate a mount point that splits the difference between boot center and chord center, though there seem to be many definitions of chord center both here and elsewhere online. Tip to tail, tip to back of running surface, front of running surface to back of running surface. Mounting on twin tips. Which is the best method for chord? And once I measure chord and divide by 2, where do I measure from to draw my line?

Thanks.

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Originally Posted by ski-wpk

I'm trying to replicate a mount point that splits the difference between boot center and chord center, though there seem to be many definitions of chord center both here and elsewhere online.

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If you don't know what cord centre is then why do you want to reference it? They're you're own fucking skis, mount them wherever you want.

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Originally Posted by ski-wpk

I'm sure this is somewhere in the 51 pages of posts but I can't find it - sorry in advance for the repeat.

I'm trying to replicate a mount point that splits the difference between boot center and chord center, though there seem to be many definitions of chord center both here and elsewhere online. Tip to tail, tip to back of running surface, front of running surface to back of running surface. Mounting on twin tips. Which is the best method for chord? And once I measure chord and divide by 2, where do I measure from to draw my line?

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Back when Tua was still making skis, cord center was relevant (I'm an idiot musician, no musician at all really, and have no clue what chord center is). Cord center is measured by straight pulling your tape from the tip to the tail, and then dividing by two -- you'd put the telemark pin line there.

Then, folks started that putting your ball of foot on the center of the running surface was better. To do that, you'd decamber the skis and mark where the ski's tip and tail stopped touching the ground. Then, you find the center between those two points and mount so that your ball of foot was on that line (1/2 dozen ways to figure out your ball foot in relation to your boot).

Now, most put boot center on the manufacturer's line or go anywhere from 0.5 to 3 cm behind that point (Voile says on the line, G3 says 0.5 cm behind the line, and BD says on the line or 2.5 cm behind the line if you like a more traditional mount). Some also like to figure out the ski's balance point in relation to the recommended mount line, as well as the center of the ski's sidecut (DPS says to put ball of foot there). It's a lot of voodoo and personal preference. For me, I start with the manufacturer's line and consider boot center on that. If the manufacturer likes forward mounts (Praxis), I tend to go back 2-5 cm. But I wouldn't bother with cord center or ball of foot on the center of the running surface, esp. with rockered skis. My $.00002. Or, I have no clue what you're asking.

What skis you got?

Old fart....

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Originally Posted by dschane

Back when Tua was still making skis, cord center was relevant (I'm an idiot musician, no musician at all really, and have no clue what chord center is). Cord center is measured by straight pulling your tape from the tip to the tail, and then dividing by two -- you'd put the telemark pin line there.

Then, folks started that putting your ball of foot on the center of the running surface was better. To do that, you'd decamber the skis and mark where the ski's tip and tail stopped touching the ground. Then, you find the center between those two points and mount so that your ball of foot was on that line (1/2 dozen ways to figure out your ball foot in relation to your boot).

Now, most put boot center on the manufacturer's line or go anywhere from 0.5 to 3 cm behind that point (Voile says on the line, G3 says 0.5 cm behind the line, and BD says on the line or 2.5 cm behind the line if you like a more traditional mount). Some also like to figure out the ski's balance point in relation to the recommended mount line, as well as the center of the ski's sidecut (DPS says to put ball of foot there). It's a lot of voodoo and personal preference. For me, I start with the manufacturer's line and consider boot center on that. If the manufacturer likes forward mounts (Praxis), I tend to go back 2-5 cm. But I wouldn't bother with cord center or ball of foot on the center of the running surface, esp. with rockered skis. My $.00002. Or, I have no clue what you're asking.

What skis you got?

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Ok, so sounds like this method is way dated. And CORD center is what I should be saying. Mounting old Salomon Foil for rock skis, also Dynastar Cham 2.0 107. The shop I trust mounts between cord and boot center, and I like where that is on other skis in the quiver so trying to replicate (and avoid spending $40 x 2). The Foils were previously mounted more centered on the ski, which I didn't like. Can't say I ride switch much on tele. Thanks for the history lesson, much appreciated. Definitely an art to all this.