if you’re overlapping any holes you can fill them with a machineable epoxy - you can drill holes in it
SlideWright sells that stuff in blister packs too
I’ve never used it for that but it could maybe work
anyone ever try that?
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if you’re overlapping any holes you can fill them with a machineable epoxy - you can drill holes in it
SlideWright sells that stuff in blister packs too
I’ve never used it for that but it could maybe work
anyone ever try that?
Not sure who to thank,but I recently used the Marker GW Griffon demo paper template on the Bonafide 97’s. Worked perfectly! I owe somebody a beer!
Attachment 447113
Attachment 447114
Those Tron top sheets are the shiz.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandit Man
What is metal grip? Asking for a friend :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
it’s a repair material that bonds to the edge and the core and the base
you put it in to try to hold repairs together
then you put in ptex over top of it
look at Alpinord’s website
SlideWright.com
buy your repair materials from him
“Gouges and holes near edges and to the core require better bonding with heat actuated adhesives found in high quality metal grip due to their different material types (metals, wood, fiberglass, composite, etc) than UHMW (scintered) base material of performance skis and snowboards. It can be melted/welded alone or prior to covering with welding wire or ptex candles for final base finishing.”Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan816
Think of it as a ‘primer’ between base repair material and the core or edge. A little bit goes a long.
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Attachment 447461
Finally mounted these after they sat in the gear room for a few months. My current touring setup is clapped the fuck out, so I'm pretty excited to get out on these.
if you don't have metal grip can you just use 2 part slow set ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
To fill a core shot or along an edge? Sure, but you may or not get a good bond when welding the repair material over the cured epoxy. You might try roughing up the epoxy and clean first.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
I’ve filled core shots with epoxy flush to the base on old BC skis and was fine because it sealed the base.
For shallow gouges and interim repairs, I’ve tried using a super hard green wax that have held up surprisingly well, too.
Alpinord
have you ever used machinable epoxy to fill and reuse bad holes?
or holes that are close or even overlapping?
I have in the past for bad holes/spinners to give the threads something reliable to bite. I haven’t for overlapping holes, but would be essentially the same purpose.Quote:
Originally Posted by ~mikey b
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yeah epoxy has a shinny surface so i was thinking of scoring or sandingQuote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
IME trying to fill binding holes with just epoxy leaves a lot of voids & doesnt wrok that well
Epoxy is my go-to. Takes a lot of patience to avoid voids.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Lately I’ve been using stubby (~5mm) pieces of bbq skewer with epoxy, pushing the skewer to the bottom of the hole then capping with epoxy. A much less tedious process than straight epoxy.
same here^^ BBQ skewers from the kitchen discovered on a dark and stormy nightQuote:
Originally Posted by gwat
you could fuck around all day trying to get 2 part epoxy in the hole and it just doesnt wana go nicely, even JB weld which is paste consistency doesnt wana go and the silver color looks like ass on a ski top
Need Mag Input here: I have a set of Kusalas from Pat with pivots @ 325 bsl and I need to remount to a 310. From a mount point perspective it would be better to move the toes back but I am worried about the compromised carbon right in front of the toes. Is it much safer to keep the virigin toes and move up the heels ? Is there anything special people do for the carbon on plugging holes beyond dowel/epoxy ? Maybe chopped fiberglass ? I feel awful about putting more holes in these Holy Grail skis
Best practises is to just make sure there is 1/2 inch center to center between the old and new holes
I just use chopped FG for reusing a hole or to fix a spinner
It's easy as hell with a tapered syringe, like a dental irrigation type. Mix epoxy in a cup, then scoop into the syringe with your mixing stick and go.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Attachment 447589
This is the right approach. Heat up the epoxy, helps a lot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Norseman
^^^^
That works great.....or simply letting some flow off a stick and stirring out air bubbles with a toothpick (for epoxy & sealant). It's pretty quick and requires fewer steps and less cleanup.
Attachment 447592
That’s my go to. Dribble it in the hole. Poke it with a pick. Then dribble more.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
If your shop is cold, a heat gun or far distance torch helps it flow.
Taping off the hole with blue tape is less messy if you dribble on the way to dribbling in the hole.
yeah I’ve never really had too much trouble with that
+1 to dental syringe. Epoxy does not stick to it so it can be re-used.
I filled edge coreshots with g-flex, then just as it began to set I covered it with ptex. It worked.
Looking to put a fourth! mount (marked in black) in these 2015 Mantras with metal topsheet.
Is this too close for comfort? Guy skis relatively hard. Old holes filled with epoxy.
WWYD?
Attachment 447830
I’d install stainless steel inserts for a more warm and fuzzy feeling.Quote:
Originally Posted by gwat
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