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Originally Posted by XXX-er
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Yep.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Attachment 249289
Angle Parking's image ^^ of a hidden stash we been opening up and widening for a couple of years, it was a lot of saw work
Bump
Fired up the ms361 that I brought back to life a while back. Hadn’t ran it since mid-spring. Ran great!Went through a couple of tanks of gas bucking oak, 12” diameter to a little bigger than the 24” bar. Realized that I am not strong enough to pick up a 16” length ~26” diameter round of dried blue oak. I’ll split the big rounds in half with the saw.
A friend helped me a bit. He shuffled between using my ms241 C-M and his ms251. I believe his saw is recently-ish tuned. In oak, the ms241 was cutting significantly better. I work to keep my chains sharp. I think he does similar, but not at the same frequency. He regularly cleans his air filter. I’m thinking the fancy carb helped a little and the sharper chain made the big difference.
Finally took the family to Alaska, a bit of a dream of my wife. Only made it to Hyder (heh) in the 2 weeks allotted, but only my little one was homesick after 10 days glamping. And my ‘97 038mag ran like a champ for clearing road and firewood gathering. 24” bar with a full house, and it ate the downed wood with gusto. Snapped a hole in the oil cap and had to get a replacement in Vanderhoof. Shop guy there grinned when I gave him the model, said even the Brazil-made ones run well to this day if properly maintained.
Sorry to not connect with you northern guys; out of service except for a day for laundry, and meeting with some old friends filled the spare time. But the good news is my island-raised lady loved the town and country. A promotional transfer back to Smithers is back on the table!
So who has the Stihl proform? I sent a PM to rontele but got no reply. I have to take this dead Austrain pine down in my front yard. 36" diameter at the bottom and then splits into two 24" inch diameter trunks about 10 feet up. I'd say it's 70ish feet tall.
Attachment 250180
I'm used to using an ms362 for work and I'm afraid that the ms250 that I can reasonably afford is going to feel a little underwhelming in comparison. I just don't have the opportunity to cut enough personally to justify spending much more.
[QUOTE=BCMtnHound;5459664 . A promotional transfer back to Smithers is back on the table![/QUOTE]
lots of folks are moving up here for lifestyle
just about ever body I know is suddenly working for the government, might have something to do with the change in government
a lot of the old scientists are retiring which will open up opertoonities ... don't wait too long
Mmmyeah...That's something I'd call a pro for. A bonded and insured climber will need a boom truck for that one. He's going to have to dangle every limb bigger than about 1" on his way up. Then he's going to have to cut that trunk into about 9 sections while a choker winch is pulling it away from him and the house and anything that might be below... It'll be cheaper if there's no concrete down there and the trunk sections don't have to be lowered.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
If it's split as well as dead and prone to barberchair, then every big piece might have to get cut with a cable pulling straight up, which is sorta sketch for the climber...and expensive.
Hum, I would agree, hire a pro unless there is nothing to hit on the side you are standing taking that photo. I did one split trunk once where it absolutely could not go the other three directions. I strapped the two trunks together with everything I had, then back tied it, then gave it one hell of a birds mouth and hinge. It worked but I did not want that split to open up to the cut.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
Just buy the pro saw, you know that is what you really want. Tell the wife it is a better long term investment because it will have a better resale.
Or why won’t your work let you borrow the 362?
- I am here for the stoke
What, my old climbing gear and a 3 to 1 rigged up to lower sections won't work? ;)
Hiring a pro to drop it, I'm going to buck up and clean. Hoping the discount is large enough to pay for the saw.
In the past I've just borrowed one from work. But I don't really want to give the impression that I get special privileges, and I'm kind of particular about who I'd want taking my work saw. So good for the goose, good for the gander type thing.
Regarding the purchase of a pro-saw, I've purchased two used MS460's in the past 20 years. One lasted me 5 years of daily use and the other is still going and starts on the first few pulls after sitting in the garage for several months at a time. I don't know a ton about small engines but wouldn't hesitate to purchase a used saw if it runs well and appears to be in reasonable condition.
Are you in the salt lake area? I have a husky 372 and can limb and buck it if you wantQuote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
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O-town area. Thanks for the offer, but I'll dig up a saw somewhere for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by claymond
Update: I got the first bid back 20 seconds after posting ^^^. So the difference in 'cut the tree down and make it all disappear' vs. 'cut it and let it lay where the pieces fall' is only about $250!?! Am I wrong to think that bucking, limbing and hauling of a 75 foot tall tree is more work than $250 worth? Are they selling the firewood or something? At any rate, if the other bids come back like that then it's probably not worth my time to DYI the clean up.
That’s surprising. Are they chipping the slash? Is any part of the tree marketable from the logs to the use for firewood to the chipped mulch?
I’d go with the full ride. I really hate making dump runs with slash.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
Yeah, I have no idea what the market is for firewood/mulch. I can’t imagine it’s good for anything other than that. But damn, that seems like a lot of labor for $250ish unless it’s worth something right?Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
Even if they are getting firewood of it, it still doesn't pencil out ala carte style in my mind. I saw hundreds of large pine trees dropped in my hood the past few years by the utility contractors. They'd have much smaller crews if they were not chipping/hauling and much bigger crews if they were hauling the whole thing away (this was rare). My obs of them using a bucket truck is minimal.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
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Open high speed jetQuote:
Originally Posted by neufox47
Need more fuel
Just as an update and another WTF, I have a second bid in for removal of the tree.
1st bid was: $1500 for full service (take down and clean up/haul away) and $1200 for take down only, DYI clean up.
2nd bid was: $3150 for full service and $1100 for take down only.
One of those guys has a very different metric for clean up bidding.
they are definitely thinking about the work differently and have a different bidding method. you could possibly reach-out to rbtree about methods of bidding this type of work to help you be informed.
Makes me think you should be asking for some references on the low bidder.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
Proof of license and insurance at the very least.
Forgot about RBTree. Has he been around lately?Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
As far as the low bidder possibly being shady, they are the bigger, well known company around here.
First day out with the battery powered saw this weekend. I was curious what it could do, so I cut with it primarily. For this truck load. Used the gas saw the next day to compare. This is the 160 with a 10” bar
Attachment 251975
This was the result off of just over one charge. I made 3 more cuts on the big log on top with a fresh battery. Granted it was new, the chain was sharp, and the Wood was dry pine. But it exceeded my expectation.
I will be interested to see how it and the batteries hold up over time. The saw is aimed at the suburban DIY trimming a few branches here and there.
Likes: Quiet, light, safer to walk around with, nimble for limbing, or a less than safe high reach.
Dislikes: slower than gas, you won’t be picking up rugged girls with two stroke fumes at the bar, weight is probably similar or more than a little gas saw.
- I am here for the stoke
How the battery performs over time is my concern. I am definitely in the suburban DIY category. I worry that if I don't use it for many months, will I have a full battery when I need it? And will my sporadic use pattern fuck up the battery? We have a hard enough time with the cordless drills. And my typical cutting needs are maple and cedar.
Beefy plastic pallets deck screwed hold 1/2cord
Attachment 252020
best girlfriend ever! Love that 20" Stihl too
Attachment 252021
interior of my backcountry hut
Attachment 252022
I think the battery that comes with that is 227wh which is 6.3AH.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Springskiin
The Milwaukee saw comes with a 12.0AH battery. The thing lasts a long time.
The Stihl is 36v and Milw is 18v. Someone can do the math on the power, but the 12.0 I believe will last longer.
I would give the edge to Milwaukee on electric motors since they've been in it so long.
Chainsaw porn. 261 and 461
Attachment 252555
This tree needed the extra reach of the 461. Rounds were 44” across where I started at the base.
Attachment 252556
The sawdust by the bar of the 461 is beautiful. Either a new chain or you know your files. Kudos if the latter
yeah i got the 261 i am running about 50 hrs a year, its had 2 oiler problems in 5 yrs but otherwise ran great
we got smaller stems up the hill so Sthil or Husky all the guys I am cutting ski runs with up are running the smaller pro quality saws the 261/346xp/550xp/ 0290 there is no need for anything bigger
Besides lower saw weight these saws just sip fuel which is important if you gotta hike your gear/fuel/oil up and down the run
the new guy has a low end jonsered and it sounds pretty anemic
I know search function jong but too much here to look through. I need some chain recs. Been using Oregon AdvanceCuts, they're cheap and perform that way. Great when new but lose the edge fast and dull up faster after sharpening. Got to be something better?
I just buy Sthil chains from the Sthil dealer, they will usually last a day of cutting but i don't file when I am cutting
if needed I just swap in a new chain and sharpen them at home on a jig while having a drink
Two questions. Currently own an old Stihl 011 AV with a 15" bar. It's old and it's what we've used at our family cabin in Northwestern Ontario for years. Currently leaks bar oil like a sieve when running - just gobs of it mixing with the old sawdust caught in the housing/bar interface and it puddles onto the ground when set down and left running. Any idea what might be causing this or how to fix it? Not super familiar with saws but looks like I'll be using them much more regularly moving forward so want to start taking better care of it. Recently had it tuned at the local shop. I'll be keeping this saw, and trying to keep it running, for the foreseeable future as it has sentimental value as well as being useful damn efficient at smaller jobs.
Secondly, living on the west coast, the trees here are slightly larger than back east at our cabin and I was hoping to upgrade as we look to be cutting wood this winter for our wall tent which we hope to use 2-3 weekends a month. A local guy is selling a used MS361. We also hope to buy a little property in the not-too-distant future, so a bigger saw would be useful there, too. Of course, he claims it's in good shape - I have yet to lay eyes on it and don't really know what to look for in the first place other than running it and checking the chain to see how worn it is. He's asking $525CAN (about $400US). How's that for price?
Attachment 253043
This is the general vicinity where the oil is gooping up on the sawdust and leaking from. I've cleaned the sawdust and oil/crap out before taking the photo.
Attachment 253044
On a related note - anyone have any recommendations for chaps? Don't want to break the bank but am willing to pay for more than the cheapest thing to protect my legs.
The 461 was borrowed and I touched up the chain before I started cutting. The sawdust was from “noodling” those big rounds in half so I could wrestle them to the splitter. It always makes pretty cool dust when cutting long ways like that. But thanks none the less.Quote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound
Ah, cutting lengthwise along the grain makes sense. I only knew one old faller that could freehand sharpen his chain to produce inch-long shavings cutting across the round of softwood consistently. Made for a bit sensitive of a tooth though, could he ever string a bunch of expletives into a chain if he touched mother earth with the saw!Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
361 is a nice saw. What size bar do you see yourself running most often? I think it’d be happiest with a 18-20” bar and you could probably run 24” in a pinch. Checking compression is probably the best thing to do when looking at used saws if you can. Barring that I’d say general questions of how it was used, stored, what fuel/oil he used in it, how clean/maintained it looks etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by shafty85
I’ve only ever used Stihl apron chaps and never had to check function. I think if I was cutting primarily in cool weather id appreciate the extra coverage of calf wrap chaps, especially when limbing in awkward positions. If you have access to an ExpertVoice account Arborwear is on there and makes a couple pairs of chaps that get good reviews.
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.ns...3?OpenDocument
it could be 30yrs old and its pretty small, at least it has a chain brake, I would take the cover off the bar/chain/clutch area, and then run the engine to see where the oil is leaking from, you could google/ask on one of the arborist sites what to do when you got a Valdez situation on that model and someone should know
I used a 361 for 5 years, probably a good size for cutting fire wood and most important it is a pro saw
Just google around for an average price on a 361, right now a new 362 (more or less the same saw) is 900 can$
I just got the Sthil branded chaps from the local dealer at around 100$
If I am running saw all day, I prefer to use proper safety pants. They are more comfortable and offer better protection, and only cost about $25 more than comparable protective chaps. The chaps live in the truck tote for when the odd bit of deadfall or campfire wood is cut up. So it depends on how much saw work you are talking about. Long days recommend full protection, as fatigue makes for greater chances of getting nicked.
I have an ms361. Bought used for $300 US. It had (and had) good compression, but was very abused when I bought it. I replaced a bunch of stuff got lots of free advice on here, arboristsite, from a friend, and from the guys at my saw shop. It runs great now. And I did the muffler mod described a lot on arboristsite.
Buying a used saw, my recent experience with 2 used saws (both bought at 2nd hand stores), you should expect to replace the fuel line and fuel filter. If it’s been run on ethanol fuel, also expect to buy/install a carb kit.
I run a 24” bar on mine. Recently been cutting big rounds of oak and pine that are bigger than the bar. It’s been a champ. With that size bar, it’s a bit nose heavy in terms of balance. I’m not a big and strong guy, the saw weight wears me out after a few hours.
That saw is also known to sip bar oil, which seems to bug a lot of people.
Easy to flood that engine, too, when starting cold.
Since you are a BC local where did you get them ^^ from, we are usually doing 5-6 hr along with hiking the gear up ski runs so I'm thinking of going to a full pantQuote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound