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I sanded a bevel on the top sheat before the clearcoat. I skied them today and they held up OK, but a few areas on the edge are pealing slightly from edge hits, but you can not really tell looking at them. I think that a clear automotive grade enamel would hold up better. But the marine grade wood-urethane finish is killer looking, just not that thick.
Thats all for now
Sweet! I am going to pick some up this weekend and try it on my old rock skis for the hell of it.
Looks good. I just finished giving my Jeep dash a similar treatment.
Real Mahogany Veneer bonded to bare metal dash(replacement) with weatherproof contact cement, with 10 coats of Spar Varnish. 50% diluted first 2 coats then 25% for the third, and straight varnish for the last 7 coats. Allow to set up for 24 hour before next coat, and lightly sand imperfections out before the next coat.
I am not sure how it would stand up to ski edges, but the varnish layers up THICK. It would look killer on a ski. At worst case, you would need to re-varnish every so often to keep them looking fresh. I'll post some pics soon.
If you go with the veneer, you might look at Cetol too. That stuff is tough. Do a color test first, though. It tends to change the color of the wood. Check the weight too, I know my dash weighed a bit more after the varnish session. Prolly won't be too noticeable, though.
I'd be afraid to ski 'em, those things are so sexy.
Well the Blowers have had some regular abuse with the new topsheets for a few weeks now. They still look cool, and in the lift line you would never notice. But they are peeling along the edge of the top sheet, the urethane actually peeled off the contact paper in spots, but does not seem to really matter.
I think that it is a one season kind of thing, this summer they will get a REAL wood veneer. I think pre bending the wood veneer, and using an epoxy with a high sheer strength, along with a little Microspheres mixed in for flexability should do the trick. I just wish I was closer than 1000 miles to my fathers cabinet shop, probably much easier than doing it in my townhouse.;)
You can count on seeing it here when I put on the REAL wood
Krash
Thanks for the update Krash.
Edit 4: X-post from El Chup's thread. When my boards are in need of an update they are gettting this stuff.
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...7&postcount=18
the real wood will look sweet, can't wait to see it.
Those look great.
p.s. You won't need to prebend a true veneer since it's about as thin and flexible as a sheet of paper.
Thats fucking sweet man. Once you perfect it you could probably make some good $$ on the side with all the heinous top sheets out there. Lord knows I need it on my new seths.
That looks incredibly hawt. Nice idea + grade A work thus far, dood-man.
I'm thinking you could make the things last for real--all permanent-like--just the way you did it, if you just finished up with a roll-on resin top/sidecoat. Like what surfboards use.
I just posted about this two minutes ago on the painting thread, but here's the idea again:
http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/p..._surfboard.jpg
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=38&
Don't know why this wouldn't work. Thick. Flexible. Impact resistant. Crystal clear. Accepts pigments, if you wanna make the contact paper look like cherry or mahogany, etc.
1/16" of that bomb-proof stuff sounds like it would deal better with steel edges than 3 microns of urethane--especially if you rolled over the sidewalls w/ a monolithic coat as well.
Someone DOOOO this!
I will, eventually (and I'll write up a how-to when I do) even if'n y'all don't, but I'm so frickin' behind in every goddamn thing in my life that I don't know when I'll get the chance--and I've been thinking about this seemingly dope-ass solution to the above prob. for like, six months... :nonono2:
Anyway, anyone wanna disabuse me of this notion? Or does anyone have experience with this kinda thang? Surfers? Anyone?