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The board is sick...I like the board a lot...All from a picture? The board could be great, but maybe not. Maybe getting the right fins for his surfing and choses line ups makes the difference. Chances are that the board is fine. Let's hope for a big NW. Let us know how it is after a beefy swell.
6'6" twinny huh, sounds like a big ass twinny. unless your going to be surfing some big ass waves like winter puerto in mexico there isn't much need for a full on gun.
how big are you? Height/weight? and what size surf will you be in... all those play into how big of a board you should be on. plus experience as well. 5 months does not seem like a long enough time to me that you are ready to be charging some big waves, but maybe your a quick learner. i am only 5'8" 150lbs so a 6'6" feels big compared to my 5'8" twinny, and 6'1" thruster. if your on a 6'6" twinny now, why don't you step down to a shorter board first(thruster) and see where that takes you.
I only plan on riding my new 6'6" if it is like 4'-5' overhead.
Talk to a shaper instead of gettin board advice over the internet. A good shaper will answer all your questions - and ones you didn't think of.
he just gave you the best advice as long as you get a few shapers opinion. the location of where you will be using the board drastically matters as well.
for example are you sufing big waves that double up at the last second, or are you surfing bombs like at bells beach that roll in and just progressively get larger.
I think I'm explaining my board wrong cause it just seems like a beefy short board to me. there is a really bad pic below.I think that a short board is a good call. I rode a friends 6'4" the other day I really liked it felt like I was paddling on a twig. I'm like 185lb and 6' 1" and head high and up is big wave surfing to me. I demoed some fins today and I think that will keep me satisfied for a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalTele
I just got back from a ses at a heavy beach break. Conditions were about head high to well over. Me and friend both went for a wave and didnt catch it, turned around to see a enormous set coming in. It completely destored us I have a fat lump on my head and a swollen shoulder from multiple board collisions. I'm starting to get used to getting held under for long periods of time. my friend said it was one of the scariest experiences he has ever had and I really over the ses at that point.
Its the second board thats yellow
http://photos-161.ak.facebook.com/ip...97161_8820.jpg
I like the idea of going to a shaper I should start saving.
i'm pretty sure there aren't any waves up there.
A lot of the HI shapers will do boards direct for $360-$375 (Arakawa, Tokoro, Pang, Schaper, etc). You save a couple hundred by getting the exact same board sans the Local Motion/ T&C label
You get reef rash if you don't put something on those cuts. Every scab, brah. SCRUB IT KOOK!Quote:
Originally Posted by pollard
....and next time don't surf such big waves.
:FIREdevil
sound like you just need to move down to a smaller board that can handle waves head high to a few feet overhead. doesn't sound like there is any need for you to buy a gun at this point. I have been in the same situation as you and your buddy were many times. it is scary as shit. I paddled for the first wave on a sneeker set at bells beach in oz, pulled off at the last second because i knew i was going to air drop into it and then turned around to see the biggest sets of the day about to crash on my head. knowing that if i tried to dive under and not hold onto my board (my leash would of snapped) i held my board as close to my body as possible(wrapping my legs and arms around it.) if i would of lost my board i would drowned for sure. it was a rookie mistake on my part that could of been avoided if i would have been patient and waited for one or two waves of the set to pass. And yes, that was the scariest moment of my life. The set that rolled through was a nine wave set my brother counted. I was in the impact zone for eight of the nine
I figured that i should use the stick before it gets huge at blacks this winter, so when i saw on surfline that it was 4'-5' w/occational 6' at del mar, i waxed her up really quickly. the board was everything that i was hoping for. it paddled like a dream and got me into any wave super early. man was it fast too, held a great edge and the glass red x fins i added to it didn't hurt much either.
i surfed off of 11th st. and it was kinda a paddle fest because of all the people. i was patient and waited out the back for the set waves to come, when i was flying down the face all i saw was all these monkies paddeling towards the horizon for their lives. and they were laughing at me for sitting all by myself for a 1/2 hour outside. who's laughing now bitches.
you tell dem brah
not a supu alias, -west