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What's the label/branding on the furnace? If it says anything about 80 or 90, it's a condensing furnace (high efficiency - 80 or 90% efficient, supposedly).Quote:
Originally Posted by Supermoon
I replaced one of our furnaces last year when it finally died. Was installed when the house was built, in 1994. It was a 80% condensing furnace, with a concentric PVC intake/exhaust pipe.
Lennox G40DF (X). Sticker says it was installed in 2007. The Googles don't give much info about it.
Edit: here’s a pic of the exhaust
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8a40f4f4a.heic
Maybe you already said but is it a forced air or forced water system? (Ducts vs. radiators)
Forced air.Quote:
Originally Posted by iceman
yeah I see the pic now thanks. Was just trying to look up that boiler.
edit: here's the manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/79...page=10#manual I'd say it appears fine the way it is.
The metal exhaust says to me that it's a hot exhaust flue, not a condensing furnace. I'm not a HVAC guy, just someone who spent way too long googling how to repair a furnace over the last couple years.
Here's your manual, according to teh googlez:
http://www.innovation-group.com.ua/d.../gu/505253.pdf
according to installation manual single wall duct can be used to connect to the flue--the picture looks like your installation. But don't take a doctor's word for it.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/79...page=11#manual
Next up how to do a kidney transplant using google.
Heh, I have a G40. It's the bottom of the line Lennox (so, 80%, not high efficiency), and one reason you won't find much info on it because it's a "builder furnace" (ie cheap for new construction), not available at retail. I had a disreputable HVAC guy sell me a G50, but bait and switch to a G40 (which is the only reason I know about this shit, I caught the G40 part on the final paperwork and then had a bitch of a time finding out if I got screwed or not).
Ha. Thank fellas. This place is pretty sweet sometimes. So much collective knowledge. Seems ok for now based on that installation guide. Already installed a CO detector nearby, so I'll hope for the best!
Danno - sounds about right. This was a rental for years before we got it, so everything is builder-grade.
supermoon, are you changing your name every month?
Just trying new names on for size to see if one sticks... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by acinpdx
Just do the new shower now. $500 for someone to remove and poor a new pan, then tile. Might as well do new rough plumbing at the same time. Replacing a valve later is annoying and expensive.
Next month you should be “Velcro” or “Poligrip”Quote:
Originally Posted by Supermoon
Whaaatt?Quote:
Originally Posted by ski-wpk
500 bucks? why do people whore themselves out so cheap? do they have no dignity? people enjoy being cheap sluts I suppose, they don't like nice toys, they only want a bottle of fireball and a twelve pack of budwieser at the end of the day? please
prep, demo and trash removal = 400 - 500
pour pan (avg tub size) 15 sq ft x 35 = 525.00
install floor tile 15 sq ft x 8 = 120.00
cost of floor tile allowance = 12.00 sq ft materials x 20 = 240.00
bench upgrade (add $250.00)
repair/replace first row of tile (might as well replace all the wall tile but people is cheap)
6 hrs x 65.00 per hr labor = 390.00
misc materials allowance = 80.00
tile match? = (never can match existing tile priceless)
oh yeah new shower drain
plumber 105.00 an hr x 4 hrs = 420.00
kohler drain 85.00
total: $2260.00
+ 20% mark up contractor fee = $2712.00
i get to price out replaceing a few shower pans a year, cause people went with cheap guy and the shit leaks, then they get my price and find another cheap guy
avg demo old bath tub and install new shower is around $5,500.00 not including cost of tile and shower valve
We roughed guesstimated about $2k to retile our small shower (not including plumbing, drain or fixtures). The interwebs said about $20/sq ft for shower tiling.
The walls are some sort of vinyl/plastic and it’s attached to the pan. It might be replaceable without ripping out the walls, but I don’t see how.
If we were going to keep the bathroom layout the same I might just have it redone, but that is a lot of cash to spend for only a couple of years.
I would go with “Two Part Epoxy with Fiberglass Mixed In” but the wood glue people might get offended.Quote:
Originally Posted by acinpdx
I'm seriously contemplating a career switch to plumbing. That shit is so easy for 100 bucks an hour. Yeah you have to deal with actual shit sometimes but FKNA I'd do it for a grand a day.Quote:
Originally Posted by fastfred
^^^ A plumber friend told me the shitty part was belly crawling into low, dark, spider web and mouse infested crawl spaces.
He wasn't a small guy.
My dad was a plumber (among his many careers); he didn’t mind the filth or crawl spaces. He said the worst part was the customers.
“$500 for THAT? I could have done that myself!”
“Maybe, but you didn’t know how until you saw me do it...”
And all the clowns with $100k student loans could have trade schooled, apprenticed and be running their own business for a couple years already.
Butt butt...spiders are scary.
Personally I find butt spiders terrifying.
He might have felt differently about crawl spaces if he had worked around hantavirus.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyoverland Captive
Personally I have never resented a dime I've paid to a plumber, or any other tradesperson--(other than the assholes who charged me way over the bid price for a garage for work covered by the contract and threatened to walk with a huge hole in the ground. After the job was done--with problems but basically serviceable--the general and the excavator came after us for more money and sent it to collections. A couple of letters from a lawyer friend took care of that.) I've done just enough DIY to appreciate professional skill, and I THINK I know my limitations.
Architects and engineers are a different story. They seem to keep finding ways to pad the bill.
Hey, that comment is going to cost extra...
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdironRider
Most. No almost all trades people should not be in business for themselves. The ones that are and succeed are alittle bit off. if you go into business for yourself you are either very calculating and smart or just stupid.Quote:
Originally Posted by goldengatestinx
Learning how to be a car mechanic plumber electrician or an elevator mechanic is under rated especially compared to racking up student loans and majoring in theatre or something
Sent from my SCH-I435 using Tapatalk
A man who works for himself has the world's biggest asshole for a boss.Quote:
Originally Posted by fastfred
What makes you think hantavirus wasn't around before it's recognition in 1993?Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat
What you don't know can kill you, but it can't worry you.Quote:
Originally Posted by tuco
Any bathroom sink faucet hose experts here?
Trying to remove my faucets and reinstall on my new sink.
Under the center of the faucet is this
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7610350ce9.jpg
The white piece with the hoses attached to it.
In order to pull the faucet out of the hole I need to remove this piece where the copper pipe meets.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...75477cd896.jpg
Can I just force out this part from the top? It feels like I can pop it off where my screwdriver is but I don't want to force it and break it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...db4e1c34af.jpg
If I do force it and break it is that hose piece something I can get at Home Depot or something?
Any advice would be appreciated, got the old lady breathing down my neck.
You might have to push the grey piece in to get it to release. These type of connectors usually push on to connect.
No way will HD or likely anyone in America have a replacement.
You've been warned.
turn off water
saw saw
sharkbite fittings, or sweat a pipe if old school
Ah shit fuck.
Thanks
Haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat
Good point
Plumbers in Seattle are charging $200 an hour for service work.Quote:
Originally Posted by AdironRider
His wife?Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat
Thanks. Got it. Had to push it in with equal force on opposite sides of the piece at the same time and popped right out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vt-Freeheel
I'm looking for a smart thermostat that in addition to doing the usual smart thermostat things -- programmable by weekday and weekend, smartphone app usable when away/out of wifi range -- controls a humidifier, on/off/set humidity levels.
Searching gives no helpful results, even the user manuals from manufacturers websites are not clear ("these features depend on model...")
You should be fine with any of the major systems. The systems work best with both a/c and heat because they try to keep a consistent temp. Either way adjust temps as little as possible. As smart as these things are, they still aren’t that sophisticated yet.
Why would you want to change humidity levels? Your furniture and your house will be happier with constant humidity levels. You may find it difficult to find a thermostat that will let you change that remotely since it's not a useful feature to have.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nobody Famous
Skimmed over that part ^^^
If you can find a home friendly smart linked humidifier, you should be able to drive it.