36 holes per ski, no problem. Luckily the lifter plates didn't have any conflicts.
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Printable View
36 holes per ski, no problem. Luckily the lifter plates didn't have any conflicts.
Attachment 356469
Attachment 356470
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re post above
FYI Your gonna chase those little red hearts all around the ski resort. They fall out when overly flexed.
However those Course SL rip. Have fun on those!
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^^^ Those Courses are f-ing sweet
So I'm gonna ditch my shifts and do inserts for Tyr Attacks as replacement... but debating if should just plug the shift holes or "plug" with inserts in case I ever want to go back. If I regular plug, I could always put inserts over those holes later right?
Yeah, replacing normal plugs with inserts down the line is easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by m104da
Bingo, thx HAB
I guess if I really screw up a mount, I can just throw em up on craigslist...
Attachment 356694
Mounted some fucking skis today. Billy Goat 108 with the new tour core. Big thanks to tgapp for loaning me his ATK jig. That thing is a work of art.
Actually never mounted with a jig before, super hard to screw up the drilling
Attachment 356717
A little G Flex before screwing
Attachment 356718
Adjusting heel gap, pins line up nicely.
Attachment 356720
Finished product
Attachment 356721
Dang man, that's a super sweet setup!
Let me know if you ever get bored of it and decide to move on (:
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That ATK jig is a damn fine thing. Paper mounting those binders was.... time consuming to say the least.
Do you foresee any issues screwing into holes from previous bindings if they are about 1 mm off centre for each hole? As seen below, the previous holes are about 1 mm further out than the new bindings. I'd need to do this to keep recommended mounting line. I'd prefer to not move the entire binding 1 cm forward or back...
Attachment 357080
How much play is there between the screws and their holes thru the bindings themselves? If pretty tight I think that 1 mm. difference probably forces the screws in on an angle. You could try to file or dremel off some of the screw threads, only where they pass thru the binding, and gain some play to keep them straight that way. Or take out a little bit thru the binding itself, only to the direction you need to move.Quote:
Originally Posted by endure
Does anyone happen to know screw types and lengths for Tyrolia Attack2 13 AT? I went off the BF guide for attack 13's but just realized that the AT's sit up higher (more stack height)
Or better question, should I just measure the existing screws but with just 5mm sticking out? (Presumably the drill-in screws are longer)
And sorry, last... The BF m5 screwhead (low head) sits slightly higher and the heel piece doesnt clear it for for/aft pressure movement. Grind the head down a bit till it clears?
Thx... off to a flying start on this project!
Mounted these late last night after a long week and night skiing. I was basically falling asleep and double checked after I center punched one ski and realized I was off . Measure thrice drill once. Extra holes avoided. Tomorrow we hit the bc and see what they're all abouthttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...73c9b7bb53.jpg
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Reckoner 122? Where does this slot in the quiver?Quote:
Originally Posted by SirVicSmasher
I would use a water proof glue, not Elmer's,Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandit Man
Ok. Wanna do something stupid and am hoping you guys will convince me it’s ok. I’ve got a set of center mounted Mordecais with pivots. At first I liked the center mount but the more I ride them them more I think they would be a lot better moved back 3 cm. So I want to remount them. But I don’t want to fill the old holes for a few days just in case I like them better in the center after trying it. Anybody ever do this? I’m thinking I could cover the holes with tape to try them out further back for a 4 day weekend I’m about to ski on? Then pick a mount location and finalize?
Or am I an idiot? Well, don’t need to answer that- I’m a Browns fan so I already know that answer.
plug the holes with a plastic plug
drill em out if you wanna reuse
or drip wax or ptex
but i wouldnt use tape as waterproofing
hot glueQuote:
Originally Posted by EWG
I'd trust gorilla tape for a day or two and then curse myself while removing.
The way you propose means that the bindings would have to be removed again at a later date to "permanently" plug one set of holes once you have decided which to keep. That just seems unneccessary.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
Your remount would move the bindings from 2cm (mounted at center) in from of Eric's recommended, to 1cm behind - aka within the recommended range of the skis (-2 to -6). I would not overthink this - just to it properly from the get go. After all, you are certain enough to drill new holes. Just plug the holes. It is easy to remove plastic plugs if you want to reuse the holes at a later date.
Ok, some clarification. They are currently just in front of Eric's line - maybe -1.25 cm from true center. Feels too forward but I've never skied these skis before so I cant' be certain it's not just the way the ski skis. I think I'd move them to about -4/-5cm (whatever works to not conflict with the other holes.) Still inside the -2cm to -6cm range, though on these (2018 version) they don't show the -6cm line.Quote:
Originally Posted by kid-kapow
My concern is that if I plug the holes with plastic it'll deform the threads and mean I can't reasonably reuse the holes if I decide to move them back. So I'm tyrign to leave the original holes untouched to reuse the threads if necessary (ie, I move everything backwards and hate it)
it has been my experiance that a properly removed plastic plug leaves the threads intact and rareley results in the spin to lose
and if not a heli coil will fix it
Sweet. Thanks SFB.Quote:
Originally Posted by skifishbum
that being said i do tape open holes before sending them into the carwash tuner
and it works tape would probably work depending on temp and snow conditions
until it didnt
i like a slightly smaller bit and if you see wood and not plastic
that could comprimise threads
ive also used the drywall screw 1/2 way in and lever out
but i prefer drill and remove
i dont glue plugs myself but know some who do
im at mill creek most afternoons 2-4 ish
and im on the workend warrior schedule and around on weekends
i missed thisQuote:
Originally Posted by tgapp
ya know it and roofin aint exactly road scholar career paths or ida not gotten sucked in
not everyone cares the same at certain times
or has been taught the right way
nor is as anal
;)
i did catch the gentelman part
just cause i didnt mention your old ladies rack
dont mean i didnt oogle
:tongue:
and im disapointed in ullr bout now
re: collar stops on drill bits
I'm trying to figure out how to take up some room around my 3.6mm bit so a 4mm collar holds firm and stays square. it's a c-type/split ring collar like these:
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SY1000_.jpg
tried painters tape and there's too much slop.
any ideas?