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TDI guys abound in the 7.3 thread. YeahIknow, but it stinks like diesel in there and there's some decent info and some real motorheads and BITOG-style discussions of TDI lube spex and greases 'nshit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Djongo Unchained
There might even be a TDI thread too.
Spray the shit out of it with brake cleaner. When you see where the leak is, take the truck and $5k to an auto restorer and tell them to make it ready to go another 300K.
I’m as serious as his ^ heart attack, jeebus forbid.
There was a recall for that generation (gen3) of Outback for the rear brake lines rotting out above the gas tank. Subaru replaced a lot of brake lines for free. Access is mostly from inside the car under the rear seat and any shop can handle the repair if needed. My 02 (which is gen 2 and not part of that recall) had a leaker at one of the rear fittings on one side while I was on vacation a few years ago. I had a tire shop change the line all the way over the tank while I was skiing and it was only a couple three hundy.Quote:
Originally Posted by gravitylover
I would check with a dealer to see if your car was recalled/repaired maybe?
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The fix for this year was they slathered Vaseline on it to help keep the rubber lines moist so the salt wouldn't get to them and cause them to dry rot. This was done to this car twice and the recall is no longer active so the fix now is nearly $1k. They say they have to drop the tank to replace the lines above it and very few local shops want to touch the soft lines without doing the hard lines too.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglymoney
Good timing on the brake info.
I think my master cylinder went following a panic stop yesterday. '01 F-150 with 300k km.
Never bled brakes before, I guess it's time to learn.
Bummer. Probably worth 1000 bucks if you want to keep the car. I put a new shortblock in mine 55k miles ago and am now going to hand it down to my stepson with everything still working great at 229000.Quote:
Originally Posted by gravitylover
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You want to "bench bleed" a new master cylinder. If you have a vise, it's easy. If you don't have a vise, it's still easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Tortoise
You can get a kit for $8.
Or if the MC comes with threaded plugs, you can use them instead.
Key is keep the MC level so you get all the air, protect the internal seals from first dry stroke, and don't scratch the bore when you push the piston [go slow]:
Great tip! Thanks.
Great suggestion.Quote:
Originally Posted by fatnslow
Also, depending on how many turns that original line has in it you might attach a mechanic's wire or line to the old line when removing . Nothing worse that laying on the ground pissed off because your trying to work blind on threading through undercarriage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Norseman
A hesitation...
I don't think the original line will be that difficult to remove and replace with a replica hard line. It's about 4 feet long and has a couple short bends on one end.
Either style of line will likely outlive many other systems on the truck, so longevity isn't a factor... but a rigid line might give slightly better brake feel. Long lengths of flexible hose could give a squishier feel... probably one reason they're not used as OEM on body routing (along with cost and compactness). Mr. Alpy might not notice or care...
"Either style of line will likely outlive many other systems on the truck, so longevity isn't a factor... Mr. Alpy might not notice or care..."
hehehe:biggrin:
That bench bleed video is good stuff.
I'm going to try changing out the soft lines and then see if there are any leaks before I think of dropping the $$ on the others. I have a couple of other things that have to come first on other cars in the driveway but need to do it before the winter. I think it's worth saving with less than 100k on it, heck it would be tough to sell it for anything reasonable if the work doesn't get done.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglymoney
Land crusher started running like poo and thru a code for cylinder 8 misfire. I replaced the ignition coil (like last time this happened) and it’s still running poorly with CEL still on. Haven’t hooked it up to a code reader since replacing the coil. If it’s the same cylinder misfiring, next step is the spark plug, right? (Unless the new OEM coil is bad)
Switch with another coil in the engine and see if the misfire moves with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
could be a fuel injector too.
Mrs C's Xterra triggered a "service engine soon" light - pulled codes, it shows P0133, which is the O2 sensor for the passenger side, upstream. Cleared the code, we'll see what happens as she drives around today.
2010 Xterra, 4.0 V6, 145K miles, owned since 2013 and 33k miles, full synthetic oil since we bought it. Googling for possible causes. Most likely is the sensor itself, other possibilities seem to be dirty MAF (will pull and spray tonight), faulty PCV (haven't touched that ever), air leak somewhere, or issues with the PCM (hopefully not this).
The troubleshooting begins.
Thanks.
If Aerokroil didn't get it in 15, it was stuck.
Work it back & forth, try to tighten a hair before you loosen. May have a brass fittings on a steel line. Dissimilar metals, electrolysis, oxidation, 24 years. Do you have 1 end of the old line loose?
Last resort before cutting back to some place you can unscrew is to use heat, but that's a delicate proposition near fuel lines, and a delicate job to heat one side of the fitting before the other (if it's a union). Object being to expand the threads to break the corrosion that's glued them together, without setting anything else on fire or even melting it. Heat and cool cycle. Wet towels can guard against flame and keep metal cool, sometimes a large soldering iron is enough on a small fitting.
Heat is the easiest way to loosen old stripped bleed valves, but "cherry red then a fast quench" may be out of hand with a 3/16 brake line union. Ping Norseman before you go that route...
Post pics. Taking flash pics before and during wrenching is a good way to 1. see stuff you can only reach and, 2. remember exactly how things fit together and 3. share with the tribe. It takes a village.
Use a crescent. Old skool.
If you have a Harbor freight go buy a set of brake line wrenches, most likely standard. Save yourself the aggravation and save your kids from witnessing dad having a meltdown.
I PB Blasted the 12mm shock nuts on my Jeep. Once a day for a week. None broke.
So what you're saying is, you've never busted a nut...Quote:
Originally Posted by wooley12
...that explains a lot actually.
If you're replacing the whole line then cut the old line close to the fitting and stick an impact socket/wrench on it and zap it off. I've utilized this method before when I couldn't get a frozen line off my old truck.
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+1 for vice grips and a good ol jolt to the nut. its steel not brass or copper
I like to clamp vice grips onto the outside of the flare wrench for tricky ones.
A flare wrench is a must. Before you round it off, cutting the line to get a 6 point socket on it would be next, then if all else fails, vise grips.
My father only owned 2 tools: a hammer, and a sawzall, both of which I'd imagine him using to attempt to solve this problem.
I'm so glad I learned the appreciation of wrenching from other more eloquent sources.
So here's what your nut looks like after a half hour of vice gripping! (Rear axle on Tuesday on the 02 Dakota). I left it in temporarily to keep the schmutz out of the line. Attachment 247333.
Fortunately the front end of the line spun out it junction just fine (after I took of the freakin inner fender so I could get a flare wrench on the whore)
Man, if that flex line goes to a wheel cylinder, it might cost a whole $12. I wouldn't necessarily struggle trying to save it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Obstruction
If it disappears above a fuel tank or something...Different story.
That fkn frame givin' it up. Dodge represent.
Seriously. The hours wrenching to anticipated mileage ratio on this Bitch is a testament to my pig headedness. Rust wise I've already replaced the wheel arches but I'm convinced the only thing keeping the cab on the frame is gravity. The list of mechanical fixes is too long and depressing. But I'm determined to get the odo to 150k and it's at 146.5 k now.Quote:
Originally Posted by highangle
Your right abouthe flex line is dodgy but the next junction looked like a shit show too so it was a question of choosing my poison.
Right now I'm trying to work the line loose from behind the gas tank. Plan B is cut it and leave it and secure the new line well on either side of the tank. Although it's almost cocktail time here on the left coast.
"Here's to the crane
That flew down the lane,
Then alighted upon my good ship's mast.
He extended his neck,
And shit about a peck,
Then slowly closed his arse."
These are lefty loosely but it's easy to get turned around when you're upside down an bass akwards underneath the vehicle. I didn't have any luck with the socket but that might have been because of a lack of leverage. If you can get a wrench on it with s long handle or bar you might be able to "convince" it.
Try to get a rag then wire brush in there to get all the crap off the threads so that the penetrant can get to them easier? Also, most penetrant is corrosive to plastic/rubber/etc, so a good idea to wipe those down if you do spray them (or protect with rags, etc). Maybe not a big deal in the grand scheme of things here, but... yeah... that's all I have to add.
Did the rotors, calipers, pads and suspension on all 4 wheels on the 06 Sierra 3500 this summer. Then found out I needed a new inner tie rod, pitman arm and idler arm. End of the day I installed it all myself (did all new tie rods while I was in there) but wound up getting a new steering gear box put in by the local while I had everything out and couldn't get the damn steering gear box back in after I had to take it out to get the pitman arm off.
I do believe these were due to be replaced.
Attachment 247384
I do believe there was a little gunk in the inner tie rod boot - it's supposed to be able to move back and forth an inch, right? :|
Attachment 247385
EtQuote:
Originally Posted by Todd Zander
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Jesus H. Christ dood, it takes a 5 gallon bucket of balls to tackle that job.:fmicon:Quote:
Originally Posted by shafty85
Thought the same thing when I read it... "That's sum Man shit right there."Quote:
Originally Posted by Djongo Unchained