I do use my cordless drill with the clutch set low enough to avoid stripping the threads then finish off by hand.
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I do use my cordless drill with the clutch set low enough to avoid stripping the threads then finish off by hand.
What's the current best practice for addressing a pulled out BF insert? I missed a season and a half due to a new injury, but I vaguely remember identifying it as a spinner. Well, it no longer spins, pulled clean. Really zapped my excitement about setting up my new shop and getting my gear tuned up. I missed a season and a half due to a new injury, but I vaguely remember identifying it as a spinner.
I know I could probably go the helicoil route, but I'd like to avoid having to buy those tools right now if possible. Would filling with epoxy and re-tapping work? Machineable epoxy? Like I said, I'm rusty.
Never dealt with inserts but slowset epoxy & some FG strands chopped into 1/2" lengths will work for binding screws IME so I imagine it would work for an insert, run the screw in till its about to spin and let cure for a day or 2 before cranking it down
Quiver Killer rescue insert? https://quiverkiller.com/products/qk...inserts-4-packQuote:
Originally Posted by Drazzamatazz
Saved me when I ripped out a helicoiled heel piece
I’ve mounted a lot of skis, tons of skis with a lot of metal in them. I never tap. Only for inserts. I use my m12 impact set on 1 and then finish by hand. Tapping every mount would take way to long in a shop setting, also the reason inserts cost more then a regular mount.
Is this^^^ common shop practice?
The ski manufacturers all specify to tap metal in their tech manuals, right?
Its the way I’ve always done it, all the techs I’ve worked with have, the way i was taught.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
Only tech manuals i ever pick up are the ones for new bindings.
i guess it’s probably different for different people. I’m very comfortable with power tools and have drilled pieces of stone that cost a lot more then skis so my confidence level is pretty high. Just follow basic rules, tips to the left, turn the skis over to bang out the holes of debris. never blow with air from your mouth, that’s bad luck.
Same.Quote:
Originally Posted by gwat
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Tapping takes literally about 5 more minutes than not tapping... if that.Quote:
Originally Posted by SoVT Joey
I can I understand, maybe, why a business wouldn't do it... but that is not what this thread is about is it.
I take my time on my mounts and I tap metal topseets.
YMMV.
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Shops are busy, mistakes happen, sometimes the tech is very good sometimes not so much. And if I make a mistake it’s on me (only two minor issues over the years, one the result of too many beers, lesson learned).Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
It’s nice having control over your own work, know exactly how it was done, if there were any little nuances to know about that might affect something down the road, etc. Plus it’s enjoyable and cheap if you don’t spend a lot of money on jigs, etc.
I never worried about not having a tap (not a big deal if done right) but now that I have that and a step bit would never give either up.
^^^ well said. I'm of the same mind.
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good point, i'm betting you don't use epoxy eitherQuote:
Originally Posted by SoVT Joey
When I started mounting I bought a tap since that’s what manufacturers guidance called for. I plan on continuing to use it, since the extra time just isn’t an issue when I mount two pairs of skis at most in a season.
Just seems odd to me that a shop wouldn’t tap if that’s what’s specified. Kind of like using the wrong size drill bit, or not using proper glue.
But maybe a bunch of shops are doing it without issues.
Didn't know these existed, a little spendy, but good to know. I'd also need to decide whether I'd be better served with a helicoil setup, as I'd probably want to get at least the larger tap for the rescue inserts.Quote:
Originally Posted by justo8484
This seems like the easiest and cheapest route. Also swap the bindings around pretty regularly, so I'd be able to keep an eye on things.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
caught me, go stuff some more fiberglass in a hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Nobody cares as much about how your skis are mounted as you. If you want your holes tapped and G-Flex in the holes you better do it yourself.Quote:
Originally Posted by SoVT Joey
Like
well in a shop where they need to make money shop bro would probably be doing more skis in a shift than I would in my lifetime, he wouldn't be wanking about with FG strands or 2 part, he would be using wood glue cuz 2 part is too fucking slow costs more not really necessary, same with the wine bottlecork & 5/32 bit he would have the right jigs and bitsQuote:
Originally Posted by gregL
No work arounds, shop bro would have a heli coil kit not FG strands, he would have ordered the correct bits, the correct taps, enough binding plugs all before the season to last the season, he would have the right jigs, the right power screwdriver, the right set of good ski vices
None of it is bad or wrong, it would be nice to personaly own it all but it would probably be cheaper to just pay for mounts
Got my first spinner today out of a dozen + mounts (mantra 102 of all skis).
Stuffed fiber glass and g flex in there and I'll see if it's snug when it dries, but if not is there a preference for helicoil vs insert? I have a bunch of inserts lying around but no helicoils or helicoil install tools.
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Helicoil maintains standard screw size and binding screw. Other than that, I don't see the advantage over using an insert if you already have it.Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaches
There are little nylon inserts you can tap into a 5/16th or so hole. They are quick and cheap and they work well. I vaguely recall reading an article that they had higher pull-out strength than a screw on its own.Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaches
I think it makes sense to use epoxy with those since they have partially open sides.
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https://www.tognar.com/plastic-ski-b...-hole-inserts/Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
Those are the ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
I stand corrected on the pull-out resistance.
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I think everyone that mounts their own bindings should have a ski helicoil kit. They’re great for the occasional spinner or mounting tech toes that sometimes loosen. You can really crank the screw and they’re really impossible to strip. I put E3000/Goop in the hole before screwing in the coil. The coils are more solid than inserts, the threads expand when you drive the screw in.
I’ve taken to using Goop or E3000 to mount bindings, it is really sticky, strong, waterproof and remains flexible.
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I too had a spinner on a M102 last year. Hole simply kind of disintegrated.Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaches
I just drilled that one hole out for a BF insert and called it a day. Figured if I ever got bored I'd go back and replace the rest, which is actually going to happen here real soon now that I'm convinced of the mount point.
I re mounted a pair of skis the other day that had inserts that were solid and some that were stripped out. The mount is half inserts and half coils. I have rescue inserts but didn't want to waste them. Helicoils are cheap enough to always have a dozen or so in the tool box.Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaches
I probably mount about 10 set a year, and more than I can count when I was in a shop back in the 90's. Never used epoxy. Always used "waterproof" wood glue, Titebond 4 these days. Never had a tear out in all these years. I did use Marine GOOP on some Rotte NTN's, but those screws SUCKED - their propensity to back out was legendary, and GOOP seemed to help, but I didn't really trust the waterproof claim, as I had some Volkls that ended up with some wood rot in the holes. Could be pilot error, but I doubt it, since I LOADED that stuff on. That said, I think the skis made back in the 80's, 90's and early 2K's were built better than what I see now.
But anyway, the nylon inserts any time I have a spinner. They're easy to use, and I've never had any issues with a recurrent tear out. They feel VERY solid. I'd get a helicoil kit, but I just don't see any advantage to them over the nylon inserts if they're installed properly.
The fiberglass + g flex seems very solid today and is holding, I think I'll just leave it alone for now and reevaluate later in the season. I'm gonna go ahead and order some helicoil tools to have around for the future though.
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well there you go ^^ it will be fine, a few other TGR folk have also done it, I have a tele mount where the fix has been good for many years in spite of a T-1 / binding just being one big leverQuote:
Originally Posted by fleaches
I first tried this while mounting skis on a dark and stormy night, get a spinner and so what have i got lying around to fix it ? same with the BBQ skewer idea to fill old binding holes but it was much easier to have premptively bought shop bro a beer so when I asked for plugs he said what color ?
I need to remount and old pair of dyna- dukes, I will reuse original screws. What size drill bit diameter do I need and how deep into the ski should I go? What is a good way to plug the holes? I live far from any shops so would like to use stuff I have or can get from hardware store. Will just dropping repair ptex candle drips work?
Thanks
Edit: I pulled my old toe. It looks like with some [selective shimming] will allow it to seat on the GW plate:Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
Attachment 479852
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….but how the height from wings to AFD might need some adjustment.
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Slidewright.com
Now I’m thinking the main difference is simply the thickness of the middle of the base plates. The middle of original base plate is flush with sides. The GE plates are recessed. I’m sure there is something else, but throwing them back on the skis, I’m not finding any other substantial, geometric difference….yet:
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As far as I can see, an infill piece needs to be part of the mix or a frankenplate like the one previously, might be an option to get the geometry correct.
(This side topic might be best to include in the Grip Walk vs WTR thread: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...-Vs-WTR-Pivots)
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Mount your own fucking skis in the parking lot.
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Haaaaa, glad we could get sex panther on a proper ski!!Quote:
Originally Posted by 2FUNKY
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That is pretty rad!Quote:
Originally Posted by 2FUNKY
I've mounted the day before but this is a step above.
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I like this... strong work!Quote:
Originally Posted by 2FUNKY
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Seen boaters taping up kayaks before a flooded creek run. How do you think that turned out?
Helped a buddy once mount/replace bindings in the parking lot about 30 years ago. :fmicon:
Not seeing any proper adult libations in that shot and Markers.
Ugh.
actualy IME ductaping a crack in a WW boat would keep the water out and last a long time, re-tape once a season but taping up a crack doesnt have to be very exact whereas mounting a binding does
I’ve used marine grade epoxy to fix some massive cracks and they held for years, still going as far as I know, boat was givin away long ago. I don’t think I’d trust duct tape in a river, but in a pinch, Fuck yeah.
Also FWIW I’ve bought AFD’s from CAST to convert GW’s to alpine, they have both, it’s a super easy swap