Oh, duh! Thank you, sir
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Oh, duh! Thank you, sir
My DIY drill guide was “holed out”, so I went to scavenge the garage for a suitable piece of plate steel and found this:
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Simpson Strong-Tie TP35
The holes are an exact match for the 3.6mm binding bit diameter. Pretty awesome ready-made solution for perfectly aligned drilling. Simple pleasures…
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Just chiming in to say that Gorilla glue construction adhesive is by far the most impressive binding mounting adhesive I have used in 30 years of mounting my own bindings. No rust, no loosening, waterproof, easy to remove screws. Get sum!
I still use marine epoxy for remounts, etc. but have found nothing better for fresh mounts.
C113 @ +1
Can't wait to get on em!
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FKNA! Those are hawt!Quote:
Originally Posted by waveshello
On a darker note, I did my first mount of the year yesterday on my beautiful new FR110s. On the first toe, wasn’t thinking and used a T-handle instead of the screwdriver I normally use. Spun the first screw and now I’m thoroughly annoyed with myself. Switched to the screwdriver for the rest and gobbed a bunch of extra G-flex into the spun hole. Lazy fix, but I think it’ll be fine for me.
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Oh, also put these lovely things together.
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kingpins with leashes?
if I can - wtf.
why not just go with ATKs at half the weight, better toes and more than adequate heels / mpre than enough power transfer with freeride spacers?
Less color matchy for sure, but still
Haha, fair enough. A crime of convenience--it's an outlet pair with 2 existing alpinist mounts (only 2 holes different than a KP), and I pulled the brakeless KPs off another ski. The color matchy was a happy little accident. I did leave plastic plugs in two of the alpinist holes in case I end up wanting to switch to tech heels down the road. I like KPs ok though!Quote:
Originally Posted by kid-kapow
That looks like a fun mini-quiver... I think I could be happy with one or three other of those two most days in the NW.Quote:
Originally Posted by lucknau
might be a dumb question but would like a sanity check.. does anyone know if the older non GW attack1 13 demo binding holes match the attack2 standard holes? Obvious caveat being the demo binding holes might not match up to my BSL depending on the original mount position.
Paper template thread and initial research seems the mount pattern is the same between attack1 vs attack2 with only the toe update, but wasnt sure if this held true for demos. Thanks in advance, just verifying before I make a mess of the apartment swapping everything.
EDIT - search func finally pulled the attack demo thread after a few tries. Will check there as well.
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...+13+demo+holes
pretty sure they do, but I would double check the measurements with what you gotQuote:
Originally Posted by fbw360
The heel pattern is the same (apart from the bsl) but the toes are different.Quote:
Originally Posted by fbw360
Teach the children well.
Attachment 475088
Mounted my BC90s today with MottN's 3d printed jig. Heel pins line up perfectly with no fuss.
Just need some snow... Attachment 475127Attachment 475128
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Another year, another round of mounting my kids’ skis.
148 Kenjas
178 Chronics
156 Revolt 95s
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I have begun the journey of mounting my own fucking skis and have a question about how many mounts is acceptable… these black ops 118s are cooked and have 3 mounts but are currently too far forward for my tastes. Two of the mounts are forward of the line while the current mount is on the line, i want to move them back a bit by reusing the rear two mount holes for the toe and pulling the heel back the appropriate distance. First picture is the current situation, second picture is about where i would be putting new holes. I know the conventional wisdom is 3 mounts but some people mount 4-5 times or more, so my question is whether this is a good idea or not. My new holes would have significant clearance from all of the current ones, and i could use inserts if that would help. Ski does not have metal but it has an abs mount plate and it’s a poplar core. First two sets of holes filled with plugs, i could dowel and epoxy the current holes though. Will my skis snap in half? Please enlighten me.
Attachment 475867
Attachment 475868
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You'll probably get a huge range of opinions - but I'll give mine...Quote:
Originally Posted by ezgzy
I've had several pairs of skis where the previous mounts interfered with the desired mount holes. (Like the holes actually touched.)
(I haven't had one, that I recall with 3+ mounts on it, but I'm not sure that matters a ton. But I say this in the spirit of full disclosure.)
All the skis I have experience doing this with were all very burly skis - most with two sheets of metal.
I have simply moved, in all cases, interference or not, to plugging old holes with bamboo skewers and epoxy. (And a little more on top to seal the plugs, BTW)
Then I simply mount wherever I desire. In a few cases, the new holes touch the old ones, and I've never had a mount rip out.
IMO, if you fill the holes, and use epoxy, I think the core is likely to be very nearly as strong as before.
(Or you might die, I dunno...) :)
[Edited to add: So, to be clear, if it were me, I'd pull all those plastic plugs, (drill the centers out with a small drill, insert a small #4 or so screw, and yank with a hammer nail-puller) then plug them with skewers and epoxy, and mount where you want. If it made me a little more comfortable, I might adjust forward/backward mount a little to add more separation.]
My minimal-worth $0.02.
-Greg
You might have to use some FG & slowset in the screw holes, so you want a cm between holes, IME you can usually re-use screw holes just pull the plugs out with a drywall screw
what is bad/ worse is overlapping holes which lots of people do but i wouldn't
again you want 1 cm between holes
edit: no point in pulling all the plugs, i think once you have cut the core with a drill you don't get the strength back with a piece of dowel
No need to pull all those plugs and fill with wood and epoxy. Sure they’d be stronger, but it’s unnecessary if the mount point in the second picture works for you. Mount them and ski them.
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I agree with others that based solely on hole spacing I think you will be fine...Quote:
Originally Posted by ezgzy
BUT...
It looks like you might try to re-use old pivot toepiece rear holes as front holes? They are not the same... that will not work.
Also... it looks like you are going -3 to 4cm? That is a lot in my opinion and I'd suggest if the mount point needs to be that much further back that maybe this is the wrong ski.
Just some thoughts...
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I don’t think the open holes are pivots, look like maybe royals in which case I think reusing the prev rear screws as new front screws would workQuote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
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You’re god to go, that new mount looks bomber (assuming the holes you are reusing are actually the correct spacing).
I once skied on skis with 47 holes in each ski. I’m still alive.
Anyone ever use one of these to find the centerline on a ski?
https://www.saltcitysteel.org/shop/p...-center-master
Looks pretty good.
Would be going about -3, which i think will work on these given recommended is only -2.6 from true center. Blister liked them as far back as -6 from center so i think they’ll be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
And the current open holes are royals, the rest are pivots though.
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Love me analog engineering widgets but I'm not sure I see the advantage to one of these relative to one of the slidewright centering tools. I think this would be good at finding center line relative to the edges of the topsheet, but that's an inexact science especially with rolled edges or semi cap. Might as well use the folded paper strip trick at that point. If the points of the outside pickets extended down so that you could center between the ski edges you'd have something.Quote:
Originally Posted by turnfarmer
Right on... mount em up and rip.Quote:
Originally Posted by ezgzy
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My 12 year old mounted up his new GPO’s tonight
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That's a pretty sick set up for that young guy. Good job!!
After reading the last 20 pages, its not clear to me what the preferred glue/epoxy is for a fresh pivot mount (roo/SVST/GG have all been referenced). Please point me in the right direction, thanks!
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Use one of them, not all of themQuote:
Originally Posted by zlatham
I recommend less thinking and more skiing.Quote:
Originally Posted by zlatham
Ready for it!!!
Attachment 476223
That's great! It reminds me of these words of wisdom:wink::Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbokhoven
Attachment 476233
LolQuote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
He is well on his way
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I say flexseal. Ive never heard of anyone doing it but im 99% sure it would work well. the glue is mostly just for water intrusion... it shouldnt provide much pullout strength.Quote:
Originally Posted by zlatham
Quote:
Originally Posted by zlatham
SVST glue and if epoxy Hardman orange label 72 hour
SVST for me on a fresh mount. It is suspiciously similar to Titebond III, except I pay more for a tiny bottle once every year and a half.
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Seems like a good guess, since if you go to their website here:Quote:
Originally Posted by Brasso
http://690685.shop.netsuite.com/s.nl...33&category=78
And click the link for the SDS, you get this:
Attachment 476284
Though maybe Titebond II? That’s what they call their ‘premium’ wood glue. Titebond III is ‘ultimate’.
Edit:
I think it‘s Titebond II. The SVST SDS says it has aluminum chloride. There’s a warning on the Titebond website about aluminum chloride on the Titebond II page, but not the Titebond III page.
Clear 'rilla
FWIW I go with G/Flex epoxy. Good stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/WEST-SYSTEM-f...df_B002IZFPQE/
Nice catch. If it is not the exact same it is extremely similar. Titebond II is just about as water resistant as III, the biggest difference is exposure to hot water and working time.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong