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Ok makes sense with the glue, I had been thinking about it the wrong way. I was thinking I needed something super strong but what I am really looking for is something that is water proof and won’t dry out and crack. Sounds like the GG recommendations made in this thread is the way to go.
For the volcanos i will give the drill bit a try. I was also thinking about a twisted drill bit to counter sink. Probably the same thing.
I am still over thinking how tight is tight.
Yea. That is exactly what I need to do. I only got a few runs on the BGs last year before everything went to crap and those were not on conditions they were meant to be skied on. Like I mentioned I have Shifts on other skis and have no issues with skiing them. This is more of a “stoked on CAST” thing...
mounted these a few nights ago. really looking forward to going fast . was waiting for the new forzas (purple) to come out but my shop still doesn't have them so I got a great deal on their last pair of 18s. since pics were taken swapped brakes thanks gear swap https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...407d431073.jpg
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bfb9f00315.jpg
there's shit ton of info here
anyone able to point me in the right direction for mounting Tecton with Jigarex plate?
Mounting up a pair of Dynafit Rotation 7's for a friend. These things suck. They're heavy, have the same heel as the Radical (issues snapping off the risers/top of tower I'm sure). I've had to Frankenstein together two different templates to get it to get close to fitting.
Feels like such a waste mounting these massive, poor functioning bricks to a pair of 158's.
the reason Rad1's would splode just by walking up hill was cuz the screw would break due to the stresses from the stupid fucking flippy lifters,
the rotations I looked at in the shop last week had the top plate clipping on to the body of the heel so the screws are not stressed and only locate the top plate
so IMO the tops of the rotations will not peel off like the thousands of ticking-time -omb rad1's out thar
Unfortunately the Rotation 7 is a bastard child of the Rotation 10 and the original Radical ST. Check out a photo of the top plates of the Rotation 10 (beefy) and the 7 (exactly like my circa-2010 Radical ST). I tried to upload the photos but the forum isn’t having it.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
^^ yup. source - blew up rad 1's, did about a hundred days on rad 2's without problems.
falcon is right, though, they are heavy and not entirely worth it
had a great time with sfb last night as he showed me how to mount my own fucking skis. i'm pretty goddamn stoked over this.
a few cool tricks that i thought were worth sharing here -
Attachment 347685
after verifying your mount on a jig, use magnets to block out every hole that you don't want to drill
Attachment 347686
check the fit before fully locking down everything
Attachment 347676
make sure you pet the dog regularly
Attachment 347678
check the clutch before drilling (my jong ass mistake), or you'll also get an impromptu lesson on how to do helicoils. this was surprisingly not that hard.
Attachment 347679
finished result:
Attachment 347680
I'd tell ya the poor craftsman blames his tools
But that drill is beat
Thanks fer coming by and reminding me why I limit my social media to the blue screened ski freak scene and keep in my old man ass up past 8 fer a change
Them magnets make the probably donts consumes mur beers than holes in the jig
Pro tip kinda a mute point
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
Strong myofs work
Make yer own fuckin' drill'n'tap guide!
For DIY binding mounters and QK/BF insert installers that don't have access to a professional binding jig or drill press to enable easy drilling and tapping of holes that are perpendicular to the top sheet of the ski and that won't wander. Three different precision sized holes to accommodate all drilling and tapping requirements:
- 3 x holes for all binding mounting step drills / a 12AB metal layer binding tap / an insert step drill / an insert tap / the QK Pro installation tool
- 3 x holes for the QK 'Rescue' drill bit
- 2 x holes for the QK 'Rescue' tap
When used for drilling the guide should be clamped to the ski but when tapping it can simply be hand held.
Attachment 347722
Attachment 347723
Attachment 347724
Quote:
Originally Posted by sruffian
as to if they are any good I have no idea but at least some post Rad1 Dynafits have been designed with a top plate that clips over slots in the body so the top plate/ body take all the stress and the screws only locate the plate SO they will not break and leave you spooning a tree in the middle of nowhere
I also blew up a Rad 1, buds have blown them up I know a guide who blew up 6, it was the stupid fucking unsupported flippy lifter that breaks the screws and peels the top off like a beer bottle cap but you didn't need to be a rocket scientist to see it was a fucking stupid design
I suggest all Rad 1 users ski with 5 voile straps
To recover from my initial insert installation fuckup, i used margotron's method of plugging with oak dowels and G-Flex. Then enlisted the help of a friend with a drill press to redrill. Installed the inserts correctly this time and epoxied in the inserts with G-Flex. Results aren't too shabby.Quote:
Originally Posted by sierra_cement
I'll find out when i start skiing on them if I'm going to die.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...083285ef28.jpg
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This thread is Gold! Mounted skis for me and the missus, can't wait to get out.. The first ski took several hours due to my over analysis but the rest were pretty quick. Will definitely be mounting my own skis going forward. Here's what worked for me - most is in this thread, but figured it could help someone without having to read the entire 160 pages.
1. Put down two layers of blue painters tape in the center of the ski and used an awl to lightly punch the top surface to get 3-4 points for the centerline. I used several methods to find the center but the folded piece of paper was the most accurate and easiest.
2. Used a carpenter's square at the skis edge and a digital caliper to confirm center of the dots and a straight edge to draw a line. Like others advised, try to be accurate but don't go crazy.
3. I used Alpinord's center template to ensure the line was centered.
3. 2 layers of painters tape before taping the templates down. Punch just the top layer of tape with an awl and use the digital calipers to make sure the holes are equal distance from the ski edge. If its really off you can always tear of the top layer of tape and try it again. Its near impossible to get it perfect and I was happy with .3 mm variance, well within the margin of error of width of the drill bit.
4. Definitely get the ski drill bits with stoppers. Made it really easy to drill. And punch the holes before drilling.
Overall, was pretty smooth and will be faster next time. One lesson learned with Pivots is to turn the turntable 90 degrees to reset the indicator. I kept tightening it and not seeing any difference.Attachment 347976
Grabbed my sally jig, skis, drills, one with a bit and one with a driver. Cracked a beer and proceeded to mount some fucking skis mah self. With the jig I barely finished my beer.
Attachment 347995
This one took a little bit of advance work last weekend - multiple beers needed.
First time mounting pivots - usually a Solly guy. 102 from the tip
Attachment 348013Attachment 348014Attachment 348015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ~mikey b
Cliff's Notes?
I've never mounted a tech binding and I've never used Jigarex so I could use a tutorial before I dive in.
did these this afternoon
Attachment 348106
I ordered P18 Forza 2.0’s like a month ago from Rossi Proform and still haven’t heard a thing.....although they charged my CC....so it sounds familiar. I’ve started to look for 1.0’s as well. The delay is real (whether it be at shops/or straight from Rossi)Quote:
Originally Posted by SirVicSmasher
Either way, I need something for these.....
Attachment 348108
it took fucking forever for me to get P14
I’ve got some new in the box black p14’s that would look sweet on those....
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Once again thanks for the pic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
I was looking more closely at this and had a question. The heal which I assume from the pivot hole pattern is on the right side of the picture seems like it is much farther forward then the shift. When I just eyeball the two setups on my skis it seems like the pivot heal holes would be under the shift mounting plate. I am I looking at this wrong? I have a 306 bsl
Yes. The Shift mount pattern falls BEHIND the boot heel, Pivot/FKS mount falls UNDER the boot heel.Quote:
Originally Posted by phatboy64
Your only conflict is the rearward holes for the TOE. Bumping the pivot mount forward will afford the room you need to avoid that conflict, assuming the same BSL.
Just mounted my Woodsman's with Attack2 13 bindings. When setting back pressure, the edge of the housing should be within the 6 scribed lines. At one setting it's between the 5th and 6th line, at the next setting it's between the 1st and 2nd line. So technically both are within the acceptable range. One being pretty close to BP too high, and the other pretty close to BP too low. So which setting would you go with?
Thanks!
how old you and your knees?
are you heavy?