Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

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Originally Posted by uglymoney

Clutch is on or off. If it engaged halfway it would burn up. You can just test the wires going into it and make sure it is engaged when it has 12 volts. Or if it safe to do because it is easy to access hold a screwdriver in front if it. If the screwdriver gets pulled into it by magnetic but the clutch isn't engaged it is bad. They usually stop working once they are hot.

My guess is your system is probably freezing up due to low refrigerant or make sure your condenser coil up by the radiator is clean and not full of bugs. Hose it down and hit it with a brush if you can.

Bad relay acts like a bad clutch. Ac works great and then no ac until the clutch or relay starts working again. So the air goes cold to warm quickly. When the clutch first goes bad it will take a little while longer to engage so it might feel like the car ac has less power but you should notice a hot cold cycle on the air coming off of your evaporator into the cabin. If it is freezing up you'll simply notice a decrease in performance that is more linear.

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Thanks. Since I'm getting cooling from the AC at all times, I'm guessing it is not the clutch. Linear decrease is close to accurate -- perhaps a little closer description is that I have really cold AC for the first two hours or so, then a rapid dropoff to a plateau of mediocre but steady cooling. Basically, it falls off to mediocre cooling, and stays there -- it doesn't degrade any further.

I will clean off the condenser too -- good idea, can't hurt.

I pulled the cabin air filters out this morning, and vacuumed what I could out of where they go. They weren't too bad, not that much crap up inside there. I ran the blower motor with it all open to try to blow out any debris -- only a little came out. Pulled the engine air filter too, and removed a large mouse nest from the filter box.

I swapped the AC relay with another relay in the fuse box.

When turning the blower motor on/off, a bunch of water drained out of the evap drain. Is this normal -- for the morning after I drove the truck for several hours? I did not drive it at all this morning, so all that water is from yesterday's condensation. If the condensate was freezing up or blocking up somewhere, maybe that's what's causing my AC degradation after a couple hours of driving.

Seems plausible.

If it is icing up then melting out after you shut it off and then being purged when you run the blower it could still point to low refrigerant levels which causes the pressure on the low side to be lower which causes the refrigerant to boil at lower temps as it enters the evap which causes it to slowly freeze up on the outside.... Are you noticing less airflow or steam coming out of your vents?



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Originally Posted by uglymoney

Are you noticing less airflow or steam coming out of your vents?

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No noticeable difference in airflow when the AC drops down to its mediocre plateau. Definitely no steam.

I'm going to pick up the Harbor Freight AC gauge set today or tomorrow and see what it tells me.

Don't overfill it. If your compressor is cold while running, you are dunking it in cold liquid refrigerant and killing it.


BTW, RockAuto sells entire A/C systems - compressor, orifice, accumulator, condenser coil, maybe evap coil - usually <$250. Walmart sells R134a for about <$5 a 1/2 lb can - a blue trigger cap with gauge that comes on one of the brands walmart sells is removable, accurate enough, and works on other cans (or without a can...).
Shit aint hard. I changed out a whole system in a Ford pickup in a walmart parking lot in Iowa in about 2.5 hours. This included r&r a broken PS pump bracket (and 2 other RVers running across town to get parts, because this was America and they saw me with my 5th wheel on and my hood up).

Often, accumulators start goin south and throw cork and other trash into the refrigerant loop of automotive A/Cs. This will block the pag oil from circulating and lubing the compressor, which will deathspiral the system. That's what happened to me in Iowa - compressor seized and the belt took out the ps pump right as the truck cranked. Bam.
Then again, I once had an ac that wouldn't blow cold, but it turned out I just needed a new belt and tensioner...

Fucktons of R134a get released every day by leaking systems. Drive somewhere Republican to vent yours if you can, but don't worry too much about it.

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Originally Posted by highangle

Drive somewhere Republican to vent yours if you can, but don't worry too much about it.

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Any thoughts on my weird shit at #611 brainiac?

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Originally Posted by Thaleia

I know this is going to sound crazy - but is there any link between a dying battery and a dead fuel pump?

My 08 Nissan Rogue stalled when driving home the other night. Zero power to crank over, so I had it towed home assuming it was the battery or maybe the alternator. I had noticed that earlier in the week that the battery was under performing. Tried boosting it at home, starter would turn the engine over but wouldn't get going. I'd usually spend more time trouble shooting but my schedule made me get it towed to the shop.

They said the battery was toast, but they were also trouble shooting the fuel pump. They found a weak/odd signal from the crank sensor, replaced that assuming it was the cause, but still, no fuel.

They went ahead and changed the fuel pump (and battery) and we're good now (they didn't charge me for the crank sensor).

Is it not odd that two components would fail in this way? What am I missing?

thanks as always.

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Yeah. Bad/dirty voltage can fuck sum shit up. So can poor grounding.

That sensor is prob a Hall Effect sensor
Fuel pump maybe PWM controlled. Maybe relay shunted current from alt to brain box to gnd when it burnt up? Maybe a bad signal from a dying sensor told brain box to keep fuel pump running? Many things. Many things.

So my throwout bearing finally gave up the ghost and it was syncro shifting ~75 miles to get home last week. At 103k I don't think it makes sense to make the effort to replace without just doing the whole clutch so it looks like I have a decent sized driveway job ahead of me. It sounds like most people do the whole thing in 4 hours or less so I'm hoping that with a bit of knowledge and Youtube I can pull that off too. My biggest worry is that the driveway has an ever so slight incline, does anyone know a good way to ensure that the car is stable while on jack stands? I really can't toss $6-800 for labor at a shop to do it. The other thing is none of the shops near me will cut the flywheel if they're not doing the whole job, any suggestions or just clean it and hope for the best?

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Originally Posted by highangle

Yeah. Bad/dirty voltage can fuck sum shit up. So can poor grounding.

That sensor is prob a Hall Effect sensor
Fuel pump maybe PWM controlled. Maybe relay shunted current from alt to brain box to gnd when it burnt up? Maybe a bad signal from a dying sensor told brain box to keep fuel pump running? Many things. Many things.

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I was just impressed the mechanic used an oscilloscope to diagnose the crank sensor. Hadn't seen that before in the shop.

He was looking at the quality of the output. Code reader prob told him the engine was missing.

My gf broke down in my truck N of Moose Pass out of cell phone coverage on December 23 last year. It was 6 degrees F out.
First vehicle that came by was a friend who brought her all the way back to the house.


$280 tow, $110 shop time. $24 Cam position sensor.
Had one in the glove box, but I never would have figured it out, as the symptoms were atypical.

Jake the Hossfly diesel tech said he only saw the raggedy output while he was trying to crank it with his $6k SnapOn scanner.

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Originally Posted by highangle

He was looking at the quality of the output. Code reader prob told him the engine was missing.

My gf broke down in my truck N of Moose Pass out of cell phone coverage on December 23 last year. It was 6 degrees F out.
First vehicle that came by was a friend who brought her all the way back to the house.


$280 tow, $110 shop time. $24 Cam position sensor.
Had one in the glove box, but I never would have figured it out, as the symptoms were atypical.

Jake the Hossfly diesel tech said he only saw the raggedy output while he was trying to crank it with his $6k SnapOn scanner.

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CPS in the glove box? Must be a 7.3 lol.

I'm partway through the AC troubleshooting -

What kind of can tap or adapter do I need to attach a self-sealing R134a refrigerant can to an AC manifold yellow line? Apparently as of January 1, the old pierce tap style cans are no longer available (and that's the type of tap I have).

Google only shows me one adapter option, a blue plastic thing from Interdynamics that gets terrible reviews for stripping and leaking. Anyone know of any other options?

The AC gauges show that the truck is a little low on refrigerant, so hoping that adding more will fix the cooling issues.

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Originally Posted by gravitylover

So my throwout bearing finally gave up the ghost and it was syncro shifting ~75 miles to get home last week. At 103k I don't think it makes sense to make the effort to replace without just doing the whole clutch so it looks like I have a decent sized driveway job ahead of me. It sounds like most people do the whole thing in 4 hours or less so I'm hoping that with a bit of knowledge and Youtube I can pull that off too. My biggest worry is that the driveway has an ever so slight incline, does anyone know a good way to ensure that the car is stable while on jack stands? I really can't toss $6-800 for labor at a shop to do it. The other thing is none of the shops near me will cut the flywheel if they're not doing the whole job, any suggestions or just clean it and hope for the best?

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car ramps for the rear? what kind of vehicle? my subaru was JUST high enough with ramps on the back to drop the tranny

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Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

I'm partway through the AC troubleshooting -

What kind of can tap or adapter do I need to attach a self-sealing R134a refrigerant can to an AC manifold yellow line? Apparently as of January 1, the old pierce tap style cans are no longer available (and that's the type of tap I have).

Google only shows me one adapter option, a blue plastic thing from Interdynamics that gets terrible reviews for stripping and leaking. Anyone know of any other options?

The AC gauges show that the truck is a little low on refrigerant, so hoping that adding more will fix the cooling issues.

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Not off the top of my head but read the reviews on all the gauges they sell on Amazon. That should zero you in pretty quickly.

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My mother brought her 2011 RAV4 to the Toyota dealership for service. Replacing the spark plugs (V6 motor) runs a few hundred dollars. Shitty design forces you to remove the intake manifold to even see the front three plugs. On top of the $700 she paid, they told her the brakes were close to the point of not passing inspection, and said they could do pads and rotors for $900. WTF!? $150 and 2 1/2 hours to do it myself. To top it off, the pads were maybe half worn, and all four rotors were fine.

No pictures, but it was pretty exciting stuff.

Back when our 4R was newish I inherited the maintenance from a Yota dealership in Chicago were it went after starting its life in JH. They told my wife it needed brakes, battery, a bunch of other stuff. I think the battery gave us another 5 years and the brakes another couple. Typical for a stealership.

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Originally Posted by powbmps

My mother brought her 2011 RAV4 to the Toyota dealership for service. Replacing the spark plugs (V6 motor) runs a few hundred dollars. Shitty design forces you to remove the intake manifold to even see the front three plugs. On top of the $700 she paid, they told her the brakes were close to the point of not passing inspection, and said they could do pads and rotors for $900. WTF!? $150 and 2 1/2 hours to do it myself. To top it off, the pads were maybe half worn, and all four rotors were fine.

No pictures, but it was pretty exciting stuff.

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Check engine light on my Toyota minivan came on the other day. Felt a slight sputter once in a while. Code says ignition coil D. I start watching youtube vids. 3 in the front, easy. 3 In the rear, holy fuck!. It looked like taking someones appendix out through their head. Mechanic & comments on the vid said don't be surprised that the rear 3 plugs don't get changed. Thank goodness coil D was front and center. 1 Bolt, 1 Wire clip, out and back in. Maybe 10 mins. fixed for less than $100. Got lucky.

It must be time to work on the Rover. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a3a747c4e1.jpg

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Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

I'm partway through the AC troubleshooting -

What kind of can tap or adapter do I need to attach a self-sealing R134a refrigerant can to an AC manifold yellow line? Apparently as of January 1, the old pierce tap style cans are no longer available (and that's the type of tap I have).

Google only shows me one adapter option, a blue plastic thing from Interdynamics that gets terrible reviews for stripping and leaking. Anyone know of any other options?

The AC gauges show that the truck is a little low on refrigerant, so hoping that adding more will fix the cooling issues.

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You can't find a consumer can of R134a with a hose, fitting, & valve? Might be local laws...


Zon: FJC 6036 R134a U-Charge Hose with Gauge

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Originally Posted by YourMomJustCalled

It must be time to work on the Rover. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a3a747c4e1.jpg

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by highangle

You can't find a consumer can of R134a with a hose, fitting, & valve? Might be local laws...


Zon: FJC 6036 R134a U-Charge Hose with Gauge

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That's my fallback if I can't get something to hook up to the R134a cans I already bought. They're in the local stores. However, it seems like there should be something available to connect the self sealing can to the AC manifold tool with gauges, which I also already bought.

The simple can+hose consumer stuff is everywhere in the parts stores. Problem is that those only hook up to the low side pressure, and I'd like to watch both low and high pressures on the manifold when I'm charging it up.

If your incline is slight just put the car on stands and it should be fine. Get big truck stands from harbor fight if it worries you. Use common sense but it shouldn't be an issue.

I wouldn't bother with the fly wheel. I just left my trucks as is and it went fine for the next four years before I sold it.

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Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

That's my fallback if I can't get something to hook up to the R134a cans I already bought. They're in the local stores. However, it seems like there should be something available to connect the self sealing can to the AC manifold tool with gauges, which I also already bought.

The simple can+hose consumer stuff is everywhere in the parts stores. Problem is that those only hook up to the low side pressure, and I'd like to watch both low and high pressures on the manifold when I'm charging it up.

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You can get a side can tap it's a clamp that pierces the can side. I don't know how well they work never used one.

Attachment 242736

Speaking of scopes and diagnosis...

Blazer was stumbling under heavy load at low RPM. At first I thought it was a fuel pump going, but fuel pressure is good while driving. Plugs are new. It's tied to battery state - when I drive it often, there's no issue. When it sits for a week, it stumbles until I start driving often again. It also will discharge the whole battery in a little over a week.

Signs point to a failed diode in the alternator. The scope traces tell me there's more reverse recovery current in one than the others. I need to go back and do this under a little bit of load (like turning on the headlights) to be sure, but I think that's my issue.

That said, it was running beautifully last week, and I had a nice run through first coming out of the game creek trailhead. Me like engine noises.

More cutting than wrenching but did some fender trimming and massaging on the wife's 4runner. Note the sweet skateboard wheel jig. Ha.Attachment 242739Attachment 242740Attachment 242741Attachment 242742

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Attachment 242779

Attachment 242782

Removed the add-a-leaf from each rear springpack (Old Man Emu on a '10 Tundra) and installed Firestone RideRite airbags instead. Looking forward to putting the camper on the truck with these, leveling side to side.

Heavy springs were sweet under load but too tall and stiff without. Tired of hauling extra shit around to calm them.

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Originally Posted by Todd Zander

car ramps for the rear? what kind of vehicle? my subaru was JUST high enough with ramps on the back to drop the tranny

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BRZ so 4.5" clearance. Most ramps I'm seeing only give ~6" so that's not even enough to get the tranny out and move it aside.

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Originally Posted by Kailua_Boys

If your incline is slight just put the car on stands and it should be fine. Get big truck stands from harbor fight if it worries you. Use common sense but it shouldn't be an issue.

I wouldn't bother with the fly wheel. I just left my trucks as is and it went fine for the next four years before I sold it.

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I'm thinking truck stands and big blocks under all 4 wheels also. I need at least a foot. I just need to get it level so it drains right and is at the right level when I refill with fresh fluid.

Yeah that's what I'm thinking with the flywheel, just clean it well and roll with it as is. Tough to compare a truck with (theoretically) heavier duty parts than a lightweight Subiyota sports car ;)

Damn....there are some serious skills on display in this thread :eek:.

Plugs #2 and #7 looked like this....

https://i.imgur.com/TaCHWqa.jpg

Seem to have water leaks in both exhaust manifolds. Better of the two options.....$500 beats the price of a new block any day.

https://i.imgur.com/pfQgvHi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/FitmAuh.jpg

Much easier than working under a hood.

^ pics no worky for me

Forgot about this thread.

I changed out what I believe to be the original plugs and wires on my blazer at 186,xxx a few weekends ago (don't worry, not the original owner lol). I thought plug 3 was going to give me trouble being directly behind the steering column but was just able to access it using a universal joint. Biggest PITA were the wire clips. Some opened like butter and others needed a damn team of oxen, which was problematic considering the flimsy brackets they were mounted on.

Wasn't sure what to expect out of it other than perhaps a slight increase in mileage but I'm honestly blown away by how differently the car drives now. The engine and trans are cooperating near flawlessly and it feels like it gained a decent amount hp and torque back. Should also mention that I replaced cap and rotor a couple thousand miles ago.

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Originally Posted by powbmps

Damn....there are some serious skills on display in this thread :eek:.

Plugs #2 and #7 looked like this....

https://i.imgur.com/TaCHWqa.jpg

Seem to have water leaks in both exhaust manifolds. Better of the two options.....$500 beats the price of a new block any day.

https://i.imgur.com/pfQgvHi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/FitmAuh.jpg

Much easier than working under a hood.

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It took me a minute to realize that was a boat and not some kind of van conversion.

Stripped oil pan drain threads in our F150, most likely from extreme over-torquing in its past life. Sourced a new pan for 70 clams and so far, no leaks.

Threads left on bolt:
Attachment 243199

If getting an erection from new rubber makes me wrong, I don't want to be right.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3bd6fc82b7.jpg

Also, fuck Discount Tire and their torque wrenches. Twice.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bb5ca21709.jpg

Good choice, sir. Had those on a truck years ago and loved them in snow and ice.

yeah, I have them on my 80 right now. They worked well in the desert this spring. And work pretty well on the highway gettin places too.

I was getting a dsc awd and brake assist start error on my wife's 07 bmw e61 wagon. The error would kick on when I would turn the steering wheel, and a quick pull on the codes showed the SZL (steering angle sensor) error. It would ocassionaly reset if I recalibrated the sensor, but would usually come back on a short while later. So I decided to pull it apart and clean it. Seems to have worked. I'll feel better after a couple of days of not seeing it, but you can see in the pics, the optical disk had some plastic sweat residue on it. It looked much better after cleaning. It wasn't too tough to get to either. All in all, took about an hour including test drive. A new switch is like $400, so time well spent. Oh yeah, when I first turned it on, and the error popped up, I started cursing, then re calibrated, that cleared the error, and it has not come back. I think the problem is solved.
Attachment 243405
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Smoggy. Nice looking wagon. How do you pop the cover out? Plastic tool?

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Originally Posted by basinbeater

I was getting a dsc awd and brake assist start error on my wife's 07 bmw e61 wagon. The error would kick on when I would turn the steering wheel, and a quick pull on the codes showed the SZL (steering angle sensor) error. It would ocassionaly reset if I recalibrated the sensor, but would usually come back on a short while later. So I decided to pull it apart and clean it. Seems to have worked. I'll feel better after a couple of days of not seeing it, but you can see in the pics, the optical disk had some plastic sweat residue on it. It looked much better after cleaning. It wasn't too tough to get to either. All in all, took about an hour including test drive. A new switch is like $400, so time well spent. Oh yeah, when I first turned it on, and the error popped up, I started cursing, then re calibrated, that cleared the error, and it has not come back. I think the problem is solved.

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Need to do pretty the same thing on our XC70 when I get back from vacation (although the sensor is part of the. Part is $200, but apparently there is a chance I will need to have some sort of reprogramming done by a dealer if I need to replace the part.

Airbag pops out easiest with a flathead screwdriver. Push in from the bottom with the blade of the screwdriver frint to back, there is a wire spring that when you push on it, the airbag pops out. Disconnect the battery first.
Then pull the wheel off, undo a few small electrical plugs, set aside, then is just. Bunch a torx bolts to pull the whole assembly. Then more torx bolts to take it apart to get to the optic disk. Clean it with isopropyl alcohol, and put 'er back together.
07 Wagon is for sale. $7k, with 103k mi, and sport package, awd, premium package. Lotta car for the money... Yeah the smoke from the CA fires sucks.

sounds like those Volvo XC70 have issues with the clock spring in the steering column stack. usually right next to the steering angle sensor. But different piece. Sounds like you need the right software to calibrate the vehicle after installing a new one.

My understanding is that the sensor is part of the clock spring assembly. If my car has the most recent software update (I have no idea) and I install a new clock spring, I shouldn't need dealer callibration. Otherwise...

I'll find out next week.


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